1.5 Hours from Beijing by Car: Three Maple-Drenched Paradises in Miyun That Will Enchant You

📍 Beijing · 👁 9953 reads · ❤️ 67 likes

Text & Photos: Muchengzi

Autumn in Beijing is a fleeting light of color.

Lao She said: 'Autumn is the season to be in Beijing. I don't know what heaven looks like, but from my life experience, autumn in Beijing is heaven itself.'

This week I was lucky to tag along with my best friend for a free trip to Miyun, experiencing firsthand a hidden paradise of bountiful autumn scenery on the outskirts of Beijing.

Under the rare clear sky, the golden ginkgo leaves shimmered in the brilliant sunlight, as if each leaf became unique because of your gaze.

My best friend works in Chaoyang, Beijing. She got a union notice, and with her Chaoyang Union Card, she could bring along three guests — so she invited a few of us, her old college roommates, on a free two-day-one-night trip to Miyun by car. Such a treat! We packed and set off right away.

Starting from Shaoyaoju Station, we friends who hadn't seen each other for half a year headed north, chatting and laughing all the way. Dying of curiosity, we kept asking, 'How come you can get in for free with a Chaoyang union card?'

She smiled mysteriously and said, 'This September, the Chaoyang Federation of Trade Unions and the Miyun Federation of Trade Unions jointly launched a 'Hand in Hand, City and Countryside Celebrate the Harvest Festival' event. As a partner of the Miyun union, the Chaoyang union bought ticket packages for some scenic spots in Gubeikou, Jinboluo, and Caijiawa in Miyun and gave them to union members in Chaoyang. So we can visit these Miyun spots for free!' Once we knew the secret, we were all envious.

After about an hour and a half's drive, we arrived at Gubeikou.

Gubeikou, located in the northeast of Miyun, has been known as the 'Gateway to Beijing' for over 4,500 years. It's among the first batch of 'Characteristic Towns of China' and 'One of the Most Beautiful Villages of Beijing'.

This time we visited the Ancient Imperial Road, a historically vital route between north and south. It lies within Gubeikou Town, known as the 'Key to the Capital,' about 100 kilometers from downtown Beijing.

The term 'Imperial Road' refers to any road frequently used by emperors or specially built for them. To facilitate travel between Beijing and Chengde, the Qing Dynasty constructed the more than 300-kilometer-long Jingre Imperial Road. Emperors Kangxi, Yongzheng, Qianlong, Jiaqing... This road and the many temporary palaces served the Qing emperors as they traveled between the capital, the summer retreat at Rehe, and the Mulan hunting grounds.

Entering the Ancient Imperial Road area, we walked to the north gate of the town. The path was carpeted with maple leaves. Tall trees spread their branches in all directions, and the red leaves quivered gently in the breeze, fluttering down from time to time, covering the cobblestone ground with a golden-red carpet.

Standing on the north gate, we looked out at the town built along the mountain, its shape irregular. The mountains opposite looked like autumn had dressed the landscape in a camouflage of colors — red, yellow, green — like beautiful maidens in the autumn wind, a stunning sight.

Strolling along the Ancient Imperial Road, three exhibition halls caught our attention. Inside were displayed all sorts of exquisitely painted fans.

The fan surfaces depicted lifelike fish, insects, flowers, and birds, the towering and precipitous Wohu Mountain, Panlong Mountain, majestic temple complexes, and the ancient town's streets, all vividly jumping off the fans.

Led by the renowned calligrapher and painter Mr. Wang Yunfeng, a group of well-known artists did sketches and created works in Gubeikou. Outstanding pieces were selected for the first Gubeikou Ancient Imperial Road Fan Culture Street Exhibition of Master Fan Paintings.

With its long history and beautiful scenery, this place features the dragon-and-tiger-like Great Wall and colorful cultural performances that tug at the heartstrings.

A warm-hearted auntie told us that on October 29th, the 28th Gubeikou Traditional Culture Temple Fair would open for three days. There would be dragon and lion dances, local folk performances including drum, yangge, bawangbian (a traditional dance with a whip), and Manchu court dances, plus traditional opera at the Yaowang Temple stage. She invited us to come again the following week.

Rose Love Garden is located in Caijiawa Village, Jugezhuang Town, Miyun County, Beijing.

We arrived in the afternoon and there weren't many people. After entering, we took a shuttle to the observation deck, the highest and most open spot in the park. The breeze blew, and looking at the distant mountains, with soft white clouds drifting overhead, it felt like stepping into a Hayao Miyazaki film.

I visited once at the end of March last year, but it was a pity the flowers weren't in bloom yet. This time was truly breathtaking. At a glance, a sea of colorful flowers covered the hillsides, and the back hill was planted with vibrant, dewy roses... It felt like stepping into a fairyland. The strong fragrance wafted around the foot of the hill, and looking down from the top, the vast flower fields were simply stunning!

Walking along the flower paths into the fields, we contentedly wandered among the hillsides blooming with all kinds of flowers. It was late autumn, and over ten varieties of grasses and flowers — miscanthus, basil, black-eyed Susan, and more — swayed in the breeze.

Stopping before a sea of purple, clusters and blossoms, their rich colors decorating the lush green valley, we felt as if transported to Provence. The red sunset glow mingled with the rolling purple hues, a romantic atmosphere blooming in the countryside. In a half-dreaming state, we felt the most serene tenderness and the sweetest warmth.

Looking back at the flower mountain and ahead at the open panorama, with blue sky and white clouds, there was a row of triangular-roofed cabins on one side of the observation deck. Below them were vast rose fields — groups of bright red or pink — set against the blue sky, forming an idyllic picture of a flower valley.

Without noticing, the evening lights came on, and Rose Love Garden launched its 'Night Banquet.' Building on the natural flower sea, they created illuminated sculpture artworks.

At the hilltop platform, the rose sea lighting display area

The platform also had a robot and pirate ship karaoke area

Unique dragonfly light sculptures

There were also peacock and rose light shows, the Seven Fairies light show performance area, a straw sculpture garden, a Wedding Avenue, the Lucky Square Eight Trigrams Dragon Pillars entertainment area, and a Lakeside Plaza laser tower area. A brilliant display of colors presented a magnificent feast of light sculptures.

From our friend's guesthouse, it was only a five or six-minute drive to Jinyinggu Happy Farm in Xiwengzhuang Town, Miyun District, Beijing.

The farm is large, with distinctive décor and rustic wooden facilities that preserve a genuine farm feel. There are many outdoor activities:

Slides, rolling barrels, forest treks, a climbing wall, swings, corn shelling, and more. Even adults can join the kids on the slides, and all activities are highly safe.

Pick organic vegetables, dig peanuts and sweet potatoes, cut millet, and thresh rice — hands-on farming experiences that change with the seasons.

There are also many small animals to feed. Using leftover leaves from picking, we fed goats, geese, rabbits, monkeys... The children on the farm had a fantastic time, and parents were delighted to see their kids developing hands-on skills and learning about nature.

Overall, this is a poetic village, reminiscent of the pastoral scenes in Tao Yuanming's writings. Green hills, cooking smoke, livestock, and fields weave into a painting that lets you feel the earth's changing seasons.

Old Friends Inn is located in Jinboluo Village, Xiwengzhuang Town, Miyun District. Jinboluo Village is said to have excellent feng shui, 'sheltered in front and backed by mountains,' surrounded by hills on three sides, a serene and idyllic rural setting. Convenient transport: only a 1.5-hour drive from downtown.

There are two large courtyards with 12 boutique rooms of different design themes. We stayed in Courtyard No. 2, whose garden was a stunningly beautiful flower garden, offering both social spaces and private nooks.

Open terraces with curtains fluttering in the breeze, bamboo shadows dancing. Making tea, sipping wine, reading — pure bliss.

Jinding Yuxiang restaurant is centrally located on Fish Street in Miyun, with a big entrance and the busiest spot on the street. Parking is easy, the courtyard is large, and the atmosphere feels like a farmhouse.

The fish dishes use live fish, freshly caught upon order. They're served with the classic hearth pot accompaniments: tofu, wide vermicelli, vegetables...

When the lid is lifted, aromatic steam billows out. Taking a bite of the hearth pot fish, it's deeply savory and flavorful. The steamed rolls are a must-order — crispy outside and tender inside, with a wonderful wheaty chew, and dipped in the fish broth they become incredibly soft and savory, pure happiness.

Autumn is a beautiful painting with its own unique colors — red, yellow, green... interweaving into a rich autumn atmosphere. In Gubeikou, feel the weight of history; at Rose Love Garden, immerse yourself in romantic flower seas. The fields are bursting with harvest, and at Jinyinggu Happy Farm, enjoy outdoor fun and the joys of farming.

Friendly Tips:

Event period: September 22 to October 31, 2020

1. Ancient Imperial Road:

Address: Gubeikou Folk Village, Miyun District, Beijing (next to Gubeikou Tunnel)

Summer hours: 8:00 am–5:00 pm

Winter hours: 8:30 am–4:00 pm

2. Rose Love Garden:

Address: Caijiawa Rose Love Garden Scenic Area, Miyun District

Daytime: 8:00 am–5:00 pm

Night session: Monday to Sunday 6:00 pm–10:00 pm

Lights on at 7:00 pm

3. Jinyinggu Happy Farm: