Leisurely Eating Adventures in Changsha

Day 1: Arrive in Changsha, heavy rain, Hunan-style BBQ--IFS--Super Wenheyou

Day 2: Hunan Provincial Museum (reserve 2 days in advance)--Orange Isle (closed due to flood control)--Xueyuan Street snacks

Day 3: Yuelu Mountain (Hunan University)--Wanjiali Plaza--Taiping Street, Huangxing Road--Hualongchi Bar Street

Day 4: Hunan TV Station--Window of the World--Pozijie--Huangxing Road

Day 5: Huogongdian--Wuyi Square--Maglev to airport

Our plane circled in the sky for half an hour before landing. The driver picking us up said that July and August are the rainy season in Changsha, with sudden heavy downpours, so it's not a good time to visit. The weather forecast is very inaccurate. However, it is said that Changsha has high terrain, and we didn't see any flooded areas.

The hotel claims to be the 'Haidilao' of the industry, and the service was indeed good. They also let us check in early. We booked a family room for three people, with cute little yellow duck decorations and a slide for children. Recommended.

Changsha Meisu Yuezhi Hotel

No. 68 Laodong West Road, Tianxin District (No. 280 Shuyuan Road). Late checkout available. Add the butler on WeChat for convenience.

It's close to Orange Isle. Guests can enjoy free coffee, drinks, and pastries on the first floor upon check-in. There's a convenience store just outside. Behind the hotel is Dongguashan Snack Street. Across the road are Liangliang Steamed Shrimp and Youjian Shrimp Restaurant, both very busy at night. Turn right from the hotel, walk 200 meters, then left 600 meters to reach the pedestrian street. Follow Shuyuan Road from the hotel to the end, turn left, and walk a few hundred meters to Du Fu's River Pavilion, great for night views. Turn left from the hotel to Metro Line 3. There are many bus routes on Shuyuan Road.

Baggage delivery service available; they can help send luggage to the airport. Laundry and drying are free. Free laundry for 3 items per night. You can even order a foot bath bucket. Breakfast buffet available, 30 RMB per person if purchased separately.

Every night after 8 PM, aunties bring desserts, different each night. If you don't want porridge, there are fruits.

Hunan Provincial Museum

(Reserve 2 days in advance via WeChat official account; enter with ID. Mawangdui has free guided tours, but unfortunately, it was canceled due to the pandemic when we arrived.) The second floor shows the history of Hunan. We finished the third floor (Mawangdui) and were exhausted. Closed on Mondays. It's really huge, so wear comfortable shoes.

Orange Isle (Better to go at sunset; be sure to take the little train)

It is the largest alluvial sandbank in the lower reaches of the Xiang River and the largest inland sandbank in the world, known as 'China's First Sandbank.' No ticket or registration required. Take the metro and get off at 'Orange Isle Station,' Exit 2, and you are already on the sandbank. The statue is based on Chairman Mao's image at age 32, showing him in his prime and ambitious.

There are orange trees all over Orange Isle. After exiting the metro, you can take the Thomas train (20 RMB/person) to enjoy the scenery along the way and get off at the last stop (Chairman Mao's打卡 spot).

Yuelu Mountain (Reservation required, no ticket needed)

Buy a sightseeing bus ticket at the entrance to go directly to the top, then take the cable car down. The cable car offers beautiful scenery.

Yuelu Mountain is one of the few free 5A-level scenic spots in the country. It is 300.8 meters high, the last peak of the 72 peaks of Mount Heng (Nanyue). It is located within the Orange Isle Tourist Area, an urban mountain scenic area, and one of China's four best maple-viewing spots. There are many attractions on the mountain, mainly Yuelu Academy, Aiwan Pavilion, Lushan Temple, Yunlu Palace, and the Xinmin Society Site. Some attractions require separate tickets.

The main attractions at the foot of the South Gate include these. After a 30-minute walk, you reach the top. Bypassing a military management area, you arrive at the sightseeing corridor, where you can overlook Changsha city. There is also Chayan Yuese (tea brand) at the top.

Yuelu Mountain has two main gates: East Gate and South Gate. Both gates have sightseeing buses or hiking trails. The cable car is only available at the East Gate. Note that many people queue for the cable car up at the East Gate, but fewer queue to go down. You can enter from the South Gate and exit from the East Gate to avoid crowds.

Aiwan Pavilion, together with Taoran Pavilion, Huxin Pavilion, and Zuiweng Pavilion, is known as one of China's four famous pavilions. It is a double-eaved, eight-pillar structure with green glazed tiles and upturned eaves, appearing as if about to fly when viewed from afar. It is nestled in a dense maple forest. In autumn, the entire mountain is covered in red leaves. Even if it's not the best season, you can imagine the beautiful scene described in the poem 'Stop the carriage and sit in love with the maple forest at dusk; the frost leaves are redder than the February flowers.'

Yuelu Academy is not far from Aiwan Pavilion. It is one of the four most famous academies in Chinese history, one of the oldest schools in the world still in existence, and well-preserved.

If you enter from the South Gate, the first attraction is Yuelu Academy. So if you focus on cultural sights, it's recommended to enter from the Hunan University gate, and you can reach Yuelu Academy after a short walk.

On the left side of the square, there is a gate with the Hunan University plaque, great for photos.

Further ahead, there is a commercial street where you can eat and drink Chayan Yuese. After passing through, you reach the South Gate of Yuelu Mountain, where you can buy a ticket for the sightseeing bus.

Hunan University evolved from Yuelu Academy and was officially established in 1926. From an ancient academy to a modern university, it has inherited the tradition continuously and successfully transformed, earning the reputation of 'Thousand-Year School.' Denggao Road is the most familiar place for Hunan University students. This road inside the campus is the only way to Yuelu Mountain, bustling with people every day, with countless delicious snacks and the famous handsome guy's shaobing (grilled flatbread).

Taiping Street is located at the intersection of Wuyi Avenue and Taiping Street, Tianxin District, a commercial pedestrian street built on the old street style. Public transport: Take Changsha Metro Line 1 or 2 to Wuyi Square Station, Exit 1; or take buses 2, 11, 18, 112, 138, 143, 145, 167, 308, 358, 368, 803, 804, 901, 908 to 'Jia Yi's Former Residence' stop; or take Lishan Special Line, Tour 3 Interval, 3, 6, 12, 18, 106, 109, 314, 317, 358 to 'Taiping Street Entrance' stop.

With a history of two thousand years, Changsha has experienced wars and changes, but Taiping Street retains its timeless charm. Small green tiles, sloping roofs, traditional late Qing and early Republic buildings with a strong rustic charm, stone paths... rows of houses reveal a glimpse of the past.

Taiping Old Street, Pozijie, and Huangxing Road Pedestrian Street are close together, within a few minutes' walk of each other, forming the busiest commercial and food gathering area in Changsha.

Taiping Street also has many historical sites, such as Jia Yi's Former Residence, Changhuai Well, the former site of Ming Ji Fan Palace West Archway, the former site of the Gongjin Hui (Revolutionary organization), and the former site of Sizheng She, scattered throughout the old street.

Pozijie is also a historical district. The nationally famous Huogongdian is located here, with plenty of food and entertainment options. The main specialties of Pozijie include: sour plum soup, Si'ai's stinky tofu, sweet oil rice cake, dragon fat pig blood, wontons, shredded radish cake, snail, spicy crawfish, braised pig trotters, and malatang. Wenmiao Ping, unlike Taiping Street which is mostly visited by outsiders, Wenmiao Ping attracts more locals from Changsha. Sweet and sticky Jinji sugar oil balls, Wangwang's dried tofu, and pig brain cold noodles with lard aroma linger in your mouth.

Duzheng Street, after renovation, is quaint and elegant. Compared to the bustling Taiping Street and Pozijie, Duzheng Street is quieter. The food here has strong local characteristics and unique flavor.

Black Classic Stinky Tofu and Large Sausage

Super Wenheyou Market (Hisense Plaza, queue up online via Wenheyou mini-program at 4 PM)

Wuxi Hongxiaozi Spicy Crawfish, Xiangjiang Big Wharf, Chaozai Shrimp City, Qiansi Flavored Chicken, Wuxi Hongxiaozi, Youjian Shrimp Shop, Panji Shrimp Tails.

Shao Fuji, also on Taiping Old Street, specializes in preserved vegetable and pork pancake.

Chayan Yuese, a local tea brand in Changsha, only available in Changsha, and there are shops everywhere. Signature drinks are 'Youlan Latte', 'Shengsheng Oolong', and 'Cranberry'. Distinct tea flavor, 30% sugar. (One free cup: follow the official account mini-program, register, set birthday as the current day, a birthday ticket will be given, redeemable the next day.) (Top up 200 get 30, be sure to collect cards.) There is also a branch on the basement level of Terminal 2 at the airport. After we got our drinks, we discovered a new shop had opened in the departure hall. We drank 30 cups in 5 days and bought several hundred RMB worth of tea leaves. It felt like we were obsessed. In the end, we said the only reason to come back to Changsha is Chayan Yuese.

After leaving Yuelu Mountain, take a taxi for about 10+ RMB, or bus to 'Dachunqiao Station'. Yunanxiang Street is where Changsha locals eat late-night snacks. Don't come during the day; come from 4-5 PM onwards to find open shops.

Sijie Rice Noodles (the noodles Zhang Yixing ate)

Address: 1st Floor, Xingyue Building, 128 Pozijie. Average: 17 RMB. Came to check in because of Zhang Yixing. Rice noodles are basically foolproof and delicious. Order according to personal preference.

The spareribs are crispy and fragrant, seemingly marinated; the tenderloin is also very tasty.

Juanjuan Restaurant, Benluobo Liuyang Kitchen

Chuyan Era—Hunan cuisine that entered the UN

Recommended dishes: Stir-fried beef with chili (76 RMB), taro ribs, pounding chili eggplant, spicy sea bass, perilla potatoes.

Yizhandeng, Luge Restaurant are both Hunan cuisine places. By the third day, we didn't find it too spicy anymore.

Shilong Coffee (cup with 'Changsha' printed on it), Shuangyuetang matcha shaved ice, Banxian Tofu.

Dongguashan BBQ, Dongguashan sausage, and Mengzhong BBQ.

It can cater to most people; many will find it good. Xu Ji Seafood is famous for high-quality seafood, so many dishes use minimal seasoning to preserve the original flavor. This makes it suitable for the elderly and children, and for family gatherings.

Xu Ji Seafood has 19 stores in Changsha, so it's easy to find one nearby, which is convenient for someone like me with a poor sense of direction. The dishes look great for travel photos and taste excellent.

Pre-made guide:

App: Xiangxing Yikatong for metro and bus (Alipay bus QR code).

After arriving at the airport, follow the signs. Inside the airport, there is a direct passage to the maglev line. Ticket price 20 RMB, cash only. It takes 30 minutes to reach 'Maglev High-Speed Rail Station' (i.e., Changsha South Station), then transfer to metro to anywhere conveniently.

Tianxin Pavilion, Jinggang Ancient Town

Changsha Window of the World is very close to Hunan Radio and TV Center.

Xie Zilong Art Museum and Li Zijian Art Museum are together (closed on Mondays, popular photo spot, reservation required).

Changsha IFS: Many trendy shops, rooftop garden with KAWS sculpture, various graffiti walls.

WOW Colour: Large national trend cosmetics collection, first floor of Wanjiali International Shopping Plaza.

Wususheng Pastry: Crispy cream puffs.

Wenheyou: Hand-shredded duck neck and stinky tofu.

Chayan Yuese: Tea leaves.

Xiangjun chopped chili and papaya shreds.

Jinyuanyuan: Sauced duck and dried greens.

Wususheng crispy cream puffs.

Lu Jian Bu Ping Lai Wan FUN, 2020

1. Guangdian Fishing Village: Fish ball soup, bighead fish. Intersection of Fuyuan Road and Shanyue Road (0731-84250108) (Episode 1)

2. Baye BBQ: Xiangxi-style BBQ

3. Gaoji Canteen: Home-style Hunan cuisine, salty, not too spicy.

4. Xiangtan Jiulong Fish Head Nightless City: Chopped chili fish head, Chengxi West Road, spicy, can't eat much.

5. Yizhandeng: Even Hunanese find it spicy; don't eat it on the first day (Episode 2 end)

6. Taiping Street and Pozijie intersect: 5 stinky tofu shops. Luoji (soaked in soup, long queue, most recommended), Black Classic (filled with soup), Xiaozhi (smelliest), Wenheyou (delicate, not spicy, complex flavor), Huogongdian (traditional old-fashioned taste).

7. Chayan Yuese: Pure tea series can be refilled 3 times for free at each shop. Good tea. Popular: Oolong tea.

8. Jinji Sugar Oil Tuotuo (glutinous rice balls): Wait 1 minute to cool before eating. (55 Xueyuan Street) (Episode 3 end)

9. Lingling Night Snack Old Shop: Lard rice noodles, Xueyuan Street, snack street.

10. Mozi BBQ: Grilled shrimp paste (special), grilled beef fat, duck blood. Zhongshan Road Siwei Plaza.

11. Luge Restaurant: Trending restaurant, Beizheng Road, Hunan home-style dishes. Salted egg yolk eggplant, pickled radish with beef tripe, very appetizing (Episode 4).

12. Super Wenheyou: Super long queue, crawfish, urban miniature, good for photos. Has delivery service. Hisense Plaza occupies multiple floors.

13. Lexi Bistro: He Jiong often comes for drinks. Butter beer. Furong Middle Road.

14. Han Shijiang Stone Hotpot: Chef sings (Episode 5).

15. Old Street Fish Mouth: Evening performances.

16. Tianbao Brothers: Find a queue-helper on Xianyu (idle fish). Spicy crawfish 200 RMB per serving. They don't like oil-fried style very much; average.

17. Wenheyou Lobster House: Snails, richer flavor than Super Wenheyou (Episode 6).