Changsha: A City You Must Visit for Its Food!
As the title says, I'm a local from Changsha. I've seen many people on Zhihu, forums, or on Tieba asking for recommendations on Changsha cuisine, and every time there are always some people who jump out and say, 'Changsha snacks have nothing but stinky tofu.' Every time I see such answers, I get really annoyed. I guess those who say that must not be from Changsha, or at least not a true foodie.
Let me continue. I'm a Changsha native, in my 20s, and I love to have fun and eat. I believe the places I recommend can provide some practical references for tourists who want to come to Changsha to eat, drink, and have fun.
To be honest, traveling to a place is not easy. Many cities you only visit once and never go again. If you are misled or misguided by people who don't know what they're talking about when planning your trip, that's a real loss. If you have a carefree attitude and don't care much about eating authentic local food, then you can just close this article.
1. About Eating:
Changsha Stinky Tofu:
First recommendation: Black Classic. There is one at the pedestrian street, near the entrance of Joyful Plaza, and another at Pozi Street. Choose whichever has a shorter line; both are delicious. However, I have had the best and peak experience at this shop, so I feel it’s not as good as before, but for tourists who haven't tried it before, I still recommend it. Although I think Black Classic isn't as good as before, I still stick with it because other places like Luo Jia or Old Changsha really can't compare.
Secondly, I recommend Chouming Yuanyang Stinky Tofu. The address is at Tianma, on the street leading from Tianma to Dongfanghong Square. Check Baidu Maps for details. Their stinky tofu is yellow, served with pickled vegetables, and has its own unique flavor with a very savory broth.
Fei Da Chef (Stir-fried Pork with Chili Peppers)
Is there any Changsha person who doesn't know Fei Da Chef? Stir-fried pork with chili peppers is available everywhere, but theirs is exceptionally tasty—definitely worth trying!
Especially for tourists visiting Changsha, you must go. Their stir-fried pork with chili peppers is cooked only by the head chef, and it's very appetizing with rice, with generous portions—authentic Hunan cuisine.
I've eaten there many times, so let me recommend some dishes that won't disappoint:
This one is a must-order. The quality of the meat is really important—carefully raised Ningxiang free-range pigs. I also really like the crispy wood ear mushrooms inside. Be sure to mix the broth with rice at the end; you'll know what I mean once you try it.
Another signature dish: the skin is delicious, the chicken tender and not dry. If you don't want to do it yourself, you can ask the waiter to help.
Steamed Fresh Loofah with Clams
A dish you can't get elsewhere—very special. The loofah tastes incredibly fresh. Choose this for your vegetable dish.
Their flavors tend to be heavy. If you prefer a lighter taste, you can tell them to use less salt when ordering.
Most tourists visiting Changsha usually don't eat this. When we order takeout, the most common choice is Liuyang steamed dishes—tasty, flavorful, fresh, and cheap. So far, I've never had a bad Liuyang steamed dish. Any random Liuyang steamed dish shop by the roadside is delicious haha. I like: steamed green beans with eggplant, spicy and sour shredded potatoes, steamed salted duck or chicken with soybeans, steamed grass carp, and steamed fish head with chopped chili peppers. I think tourists should feel free to try them.
I recommend Yulong Bullfrog. It's on a street behind Wangfujing; check Baidu Maps for details. Yulong is an old brand bullfrog restaurant in Changsha. It used to be really delicious, and although it's not as good now, I still go there because I haven't found a better one yet. Also, the bullfrog shops I found tasty have gradually closed down or transferred their storefronts, such as the old Xuji Bullfrog by the Xiang River in Hexi. Recently, the popular "Walaida" bullfrog in Changsha is also worth a try—it's okay. I also recommend a shop called "Tiaotiao Wa" on Pozi Street—find it yourself; it's not bad.
Basically, all spicy crayfish are tasty; I think any shop is fine. But the most impressive one is at "Danzhi Daxia Cheng" near Bayi Bridge—the spicy crayfish there is delicious and clean, a long-standing Changsha establishment. As for other shops, the spicy crayfish is pretty much similar, and the night market stalls are also about the same. Just go where there are many people; the taste won't be bad. However, the old Changsha spicy crayfish restaurants are actually average but very popular, probably because of their good advertising—even the subway stations have their ads, you have to admire that. Locals usually eat spicy crayfish at Pozi Street, Nanmenkou, Wenmiaoping, or at the night market stalls and shops opposite Du Fu River Pavilion, or at the night market near their own neighborhoods.
I don't know when people started calling fried goods "Zha Zha Zha." I don't get it. Since I was a child, everyone I know in Changsha calls it "You! Zha! Huo!" (fried goods). Back in the day, having a few skewers of fried goods after school was heavenly—but I digress. The currently popular Changsha Fried Goods (Yong Zha She) I've visited several times; the taste is okay, mainly the shop's decoration style (nostalgic) is suitable for tourists to take photos. There's also Hu Ji Fried Goods, which is also average and super salty—bitterly salty. I don't know why the owner makes it so salty. If you're too lazy to find good fried stalls, I only recommend the Old Changsha pork tenderloin (delicious), potatoes, lotus root slices, and soy milk. Order other items as you see fit. I don't recommend the large prawns or the soy sauce fried rice—both not tasty. I also recommend the fried crucian carp and fried cucumber from Hu Ji Fried Goods; I don't recommend anything else there—they're all salty to the point of bitterness. Actually, the good fried goods stalls are all near residential areas or on the roadside, in small roadside shops. My favorite used to be on Xinmin Road, diagonally opposite Yuelu Mountain—that fried stall was super delicious, but it seems they're not making it anymore; business was booming back then.
Every time I eat Changsha-style snake, I'm amazed, but I always go with others and forget the place. Anyway, if you like snake, you can pick any busy shop or night market stall and try it; you might get a small surprise and a taste delight.
Zheng Ge Beef Skewers on Taiping Street:
On Taiping Street near Jiefang West Road, there are two Zheng Ge Beef Skewers shops. Check Baidu Maps for details; there are also coffee shops nearby. One is on the side street, kind of shabby, run by Zheng Ge himself—he grills the meat for you, and it's super delicious. The other is on the main street, a large new shop, run by his nephew. Zheng Ge said they are all family and all taste good, haha. I've only eaten the ones grilled by Zheng Ge, and they are really amazing—big chunks of meat, very flavorful. I'm usually satisfied after about 4 skewers. Of course, they're not cheap—7 yuan per skewer. They start grilling at 4 PM every day and close after selling a certain amount of beef. I don't remember the exact amount, but they're really delicious.
Jin Yuan Yuan Sauce Pickled Duck:
My favorite snack—the "Zhou Heiya" of Changsha people. Really delicious, highly recommended. I always buy a whole duck and eat it while watching dramas, with a drink—so enjoyable. In Korean dramas, they eat fried chicken with beer; I have Jin Yuan Yuan with Sprite. Haha. Usually, there are Jin Yuan Yuan shops on the roadside or in alleys; each one is tasty. Of course, besides the whole duck, their duck wings are also delicious. Remember to try their "gong cai" (may have a typo, it's "gen cai")—super aromatic. Their duck is not as heavy in flavor or artificial essence as Jue Wei or Zhou Heiya. Their duck has a strong sesame oil aroma, dry, with shreds of duck meat that are very flavorful—tasty and not greasy! Near Zhongshanting, around Lehe City, there is the flagship store of Jin Yuan Yuan. Next door is Qingquan Ge's steampunk, an old Changsha bun shop—you can try a meat bun.
Li Gong Temple's Tangyou Baba (Glutinous Rice Balls in Syrup):
Near Lehe City, check Baidu Maps for details. Delicious, soft, sticky but not greasy, with a strong osmanthus fragrance. Two people can share a bowl—four pieces per bowl.
Lard Rice Noodles, Cold Dishes, and Hot Spiced Mix:
I usually eat these at Wenmiaoping, at "Mao Tuo" 's place—they're okay. I feel like my mom could make the same taste at home. The Changsha hot spiced mix quadruple (si he yi) is a must-order at night market stalls. There's a shop called "Hot Spiced Liu" whose hot spiced mix is also very tasty. I've also eaten hot spiced mix from the night market stalls opposite Du Fu River Pavilion—it's delicious too.
