One and a Half Day Food & Sightseeing in Changsha (Orange Isle, Wuyi Square) — Food Exploration Records

After the May Day holiday, I returned to Changsha for two days. Changsha is a city filled with memories of my youth. This trip back was mainly to eat at the shops I used to love and check out some new trendy spots.

(1) Day 1: Checked into hotel in the afternoon

The hotel we booked was the Mushan Xun Hotel, about a 10-minute walk from Yuelu Mountain.

This hotel is quite clean. On non-holiday days, it costs around 180 yuan. It’s located across the river from Wuyi Square, near the Yuelu Mountain end. It’s close to Orange Isle, Wuyi Square, and Yuelu Mountain scenic area.

It’s about a 10-minute walk from the Yinwanzhen metro exit. Along the way, there’s a small food court—you can grab a bite there if you get hungry before returning to the hotel.

(Food court near the hotel)

(There’s also a Chayan Yuese at the 2077 Food Court — had a cup first)

(2) Day 1 Evening: Eating crayfish at Tu Xiao'er Lobster House

The most popular crayfish brand in Changsha is, of course, Super Wenheyou at Haixin Plaza. It’s only a 10- to 15-minute taxi ride from the hotel to Haixin Plaza across the Xiang River. I checked online and saw there were over 200 groups in line, so I gave up. Besides, I had been there with friends during college, so it wasn’t a must-visit this time. That said, if you’ve never been, it’s definitely worth a visit. The interior is decorated in a retro Changsha style from the 80s and 90s, featuring vintage slot machines, arcade games, and a street barbershop scene.

(Actually, many crayfish joints in Changsha’s residential communities are pretty good, but if you’re new, it’s hard to find a nice and affordable one. Visiting a trendy spot is a relatively safe and compromise solution to prove you’ve been there.)

We chose Tu Xiao'er Lobster House in Wangyuehu Residential Community, which ranks second in Changsha. The prices were almost the same as Wenheyou. We queued for a while when we arrived, but not too long.

The four of us ordered 1 jin of Old Changsha Flavored Crayfish and 4 jin of Braised Crayfish.

The Old Changsha flavored crayfish wasn’t super spicy. Those who can’t handle spice might find it a bit hot, but it should be tolerable.

The braised crayfish was a bit pricier than street stalls, but they were all very fresh, with bright yellow roe.

(Tu Xiao'er Lobster House)

(Old Changsha Flavored Crayfish)

(3) Day 2: Woke up early for a local rice noodle shop and failed to climb Yuelu Mountain

We chose a nearby rice noodle shop called Danmo.

Actually, I think any breakfast place near your stay that has many locals is bound to taste good.

(Traditional methods for making rice noodles and grinding soy milk)

(The baozi in Changsha are filled with chili oil, haha)

(I had lard-mixed rice noodles—they kind of resemble the kway teow in Guangdong)

(Mushroom and vegetable rice noodles)

(4) Day 2 Midday: Visiting Orange Isle

We woke up late and had breakfast, so it was already past 10. We planned to climb Yuelu Mountain (a 10-minute walk), but the queue for the cable car meant we wouldn’t get on until 3 p.m., so we gave up and decided to visit Orange Isle instead.

(I’ve climbed Yuelu Mountain many times; hiking up takes about 2 hours. If you’re visiting Changsha specifically for the mountain, I recommend getting up early and taking the cable car to save energy for other sightseeing and eating.)

We entered the metro station near Yuelu Mountain and took two stops to reach the tail end of Orange Isle. Chairman Mao’s statue is at the head of the island—it’s at least a 30-minute walk to the statue, and then you have to walk back to the tail for the metro. So I recommend taking the sightseeing car.

We bought tickets for the scenic train and rode to the head of Orange Isle.

(Chairman Mao’s statue at the head of the island)

You can walk a little further to see the river view and experience Chairman Mao’s feeling of watching the Xiang River flowing northward.

(Back at the visitor center at the island’s tail, I sent a postcard to a friend)

(5) Day 2 Afternoon and Evening: Eating around the Wuyi commercial area (Taiping Old Street, IFS, and Huangxing Road Pedestrian Street)

From Orange Isle, we took the metro to Xiangjiang Middle Road station and walked a short distance to Taiping Street.

Shao Shifu’s Meicai Kou Rou Bing (Preserved Vegetable and Pork Belly Pancake)

(Black Classic Stinky Tofu)

(Hu Ji Fried Everything in Majia Lane)

This place isn’t on the main Taiping Street—you have to go into the side alley. It’s basically fried barbecue brushed with chili oil. I have a heavy taste, so I liked it. I’d recommend ordering mild spice.

In the next lane, Fujia Lane, we bought Guo Grandma Ice Jelly and fried skewers. I liked the mint flavor—it was refreshing and helped cool down the spiciness.

(Zheng Ge Beef Skewers)

The beef skewers were very fresh. We ordered beef skewers and rib skewers; I found the rib skewers especially delicious. I’d want to eat more if I come back.

After that, we left Taiping Street for dinner—feeling super full.

(Hunan Cuisine: Yizhandeng)

For dinner, we had Hunan cuisine at Yizhandeng, also in the Wuyi Square area, a short walk from Taiping Old Street.

I suggest that out-of-towners who can’t handle spice shouldn’t try it—the taste is good, but it’s spicier than average Hunan food. The small stir-fried yellow beef is really tasty.

(If you really want to try Hunan cuisine, check ratings at malls or try a random roadside restaurant—they’re usually good too.)

Seeing it was still early, I went to visit the Guojin Center (IFS), which I’d heard about for four years but never been to. It wasn’t far to walk.

After that, I walked to Huangxing Road Pedestrian Street. It was already night.

(Huangxing Road Pedestrian Street)

(Even on non-holiday nights, it’s still packed with people. Property prices in Changsha are relatively low, so consumption is quite vibrant.)

Wenheyou Large Sausage and Stinky Tofu

(Wenheyou’s stinky tofu comes with broth, not as dry as Black Classic’s—both are good.)

(Xin Tai Ruan Tang You Ba Ba – soft heart, sugared glutinous rice balls)

Just average. If you see an old lady selling Tang You Ba Ba on the street, you could try hers—it’s probably also good. This shop is just okay.

On Huangxing Road, there was a La Tiao (spicy strips) museum. Most of Hunan’s spicy strips are produced in Pingjiang, Yueyang.

In Changsha, you often see shared e-bikes. Just scan and ride—it’s very convenient.

(6) Day 2 Morning: We ate braised rice noodles for breakfast. Hunan’s braised rice noodles are great—worth a try. For lunch, we went to the Hunan headquarters of Chongqing Chicken Pot, one of my favorite places in college.

Near the Tianma Student Apartments

(There are many university students and good food here, and it’s cheaper. This area comprises the university town of Hunan University, Hunan Normal University, and the old campus of Central South University.)

Chongqing Chicken Pot Hunan Headquarters

The best chicken pot I’ve ever had in Changsha.

(7) After lunch, we rushed to the high-speed train station and went back.