Time on the Road: A Journey to Fenghuang, Zhangjiajie, and Changsha
Travel is a relaxation of the soul, and sometimes an escape from reality—fleeing from all the helplessness and confusion of everyday life, allowing one to temporarily detach.
After a whole year of procrastination, I finally set off on the long-awaited trip to Hunan...
Starting point: Guiyang, Guizhou Province Destination: Changsha, Hunan Province
On April 29, I left my hometown Suzhou, Jiangsu, for a business trip to Guiyang. After finishing work on May 7, I headed east from Guiyang, just to meet a more beautiful you.
DAY 1: Guiyang to Jishou, Train K2286
Guiyang has been making big moves in infrastructure this year—the airport opened Terminal 2, and the train station is also being renovated.
The train to Jishou took nine hours. On board, I felt the train charging recklessly through the towering mountains, with my phone signal constantly connecting and disconnecting. I excitedly looked out the window; the carriage was nearly empty, and the few fellow travelers around me were all dozing off.
It was already 5:30 PM when I arrived in Jishou. At the exit of the train station, I saw many people loudly shouting "Fenghuang, Fenghuang." Half-believing, I followed them to the right of the square and boarded a bus. Many people were already seated, and we soon departed. From Jishou to Fenghuang, it was a half-hour expressway ride. Pushing open the window, I looked at the unfamiliar road, feeling the wind brush past my ears—it was quite enjoyable.
When I arrived at Fenghuang North Coach Station, I took a taxi to the ancient town—no meter used. From the station to my accommodation on Laoyingshao, the driver demanded 20 yuan. It wasn't cheap at all. Fenghuang is strikingly similar to Xitang—both are ancient towns, both made more spiritual by water.
I had booked my inn online in advance, located on Laoyingshao. It wasn't right by the river, but only a two-minute walk away. Unfortunately, right across from my lodging was a bar. From 6 PM, they blasted disco music, and later there were hot girls dancing on poles. Of course, I had to ignore it—the room rate was only 138 yuan. The August Coffee shop was photogenic everywhere; even a glass of water oozed literary flair. The second floor had a large common room with a neurotic cat, but the service was really lacking. Oh well, I reminded myself of the 138 yuan price.
After putting my things away, it was nearly 7 PM. I headed straight to the Tuo River, took a short walk, and found that the ancient town wasn’t crowded, but prices were far from cheap. Perhaps the inn I stayed in was a microcosm of Fenghuang: a lavish exterior with very little inside. Just like the pub songs I heard on my walk—none were in English. Anyway, I’m not saying English is more noble; I mean that no matter how Fenghuang packages itself as a bohemian, fairy-tale, or Windsor-style place, its essence is still about raucous, simple folk culture.
I decided to wander out of the ancient town to Fenghuang Bridge to see the twinkling lights. Nanhua Gate was also an excellent viewing spot. On a platform midway, several middle-aged women were doing square dancing, which finally gave me a whiff of modern city life.
As for dinner, I’d heard about Hunan’s spiciness since childhood, but compared to Guizhou, it seemed milder—perhaps the thing I was most grateful for.
Panoramic view of the ancient town from Nanhua Bridge
Fenghuang’s bars are known for their atmosphere and chance encounters. I had searched online for a few well-regarded ones, and they all appeared one by one before me, but the bar I really wanted to visit—"Elope Bar"—was closed for those two days! That somewhat dampened my enthusiasm for bar-hopping. Also, I thought, traveling alone didn’t require any encounters, so I just stood quietly at the door for a while and then returned to rest.
DAY 2: Fenghuang
I still had a day and a half in Fenghuang. I didn’t plan to exhaust myself visiting surrounding attractions; I just wanted to stroll leisurely through the ancient town, watching, wandering.
What impressed me deeply in Fenghuang, besides the stunning night scenery, was the firewood-cooked food at a local restaurant. I absolutely loved it—it had a true taste of the world, so comforting and satisfying. Only those who have experienced it can understand. I highly recommend this specialty restaurant to anyone visiting Fenghuang!
DAY 3: Fenghuang to Zhangjiajie
In Fenghuang, I lavishly let time slip away. Honestly, I didn’t feel like I was in a paradise; I was never detached from the world, covered in the smell of smoke and fire. But the commercialized Fenghuang had quite complete tourist facilities. Since my next stop was Zhangjiajie, the inns, bars, and souvenir shops nearby all offered bus ticket booking services, so I bought my ticket early. That put my mind at ease.
Fenghuang North Coach Station is not far from the ancient town. For the destination, you can choose either Zhangjiajie city center or Wulingyuan Scenic Area—direct buses with different departure times. My ticket was for 2:30 PM.
I decided to watch the live outdoor performance "Tianmen Fox Fairy." If you ask me whether it’s worth seeing, I’d say: "The story is touching, the music beautiful, and the magnificent lighting gives visual splendor and sensory shock—worth it!"
Inscription at the entrance of Zhangjiajie National Forest Park
There were many monkeys along Golden Whip Stream
The sights at Golden Whip Stream could be imagined as anything
We arrived at Qianli Xianghui (Thousand Miles Meet), the start of the chaotic slope leading to Yuanjiajie on foot. Guide Chen asked if we wanted to take the Bailong Elevator or climb. To conserve energy, we chose the elevator. After a grueling 7.5-kilometer trek, we finally reached the end point, Shuirao Simen (Water Wraps Around Four Gates). Then we took the so-called "World's First Elevator"—the Bailong Sky Ladder—up to Yuanjiajie. The elevator reached the summit in two minutes. Standing at the top, we looked into the distance, seeing peculiar peaks and strange rocks—some flat like platforms, some delicate and beautiful, some sharp like swords... Everyone was captivated by the stunning scenery, completely forgetting the fatigue from walking along Golden Whip Stream. Then we took a bus to the Yuanjiajie station.
View of the ground taken from the Bailong Sky Ladder
This is Avatar Mountain—it really felt like floating in the air
We visited Lost Soul Terrace, Heavenly Pillar, the World’s First Bridge... one breathtaking sight after another. Faced with Zhangjiajie’s oddly shaped peaks and steep cliffs, we couldn’t help but marvel at nature’s greatness!
After finishing Yuanjiajie, it was almost dark, ending the first day’s itinerary. We returned to Wulingyuan city and chose the Listening to Elegance Ya'anjing Characteristic Inn. It cost 116 yuan, a great deal with excellent value for money, clean and tidy, and crucially, only about two kilometers from the scenic area—a really good inn. Friends visiting Wulingyuan, you should truly consider staying here!
Tianzi Mountain and Ten-mile Gallery
DAY 5: Tianzi Mountain and Ten-mile Gallery
After breakfast, we went with Guide Chen to the intersection to take an eco-bus to Tianzi Mountain. From Xihai Stone Forest, looking out, there were countless strange peaks and stones, magnificent and breathtaking—all in full view.
Sublime feeling of "one glance encompasses all lesser mountains"
After visiting the sights, we had lunch and then took the cable car down from Tianzi Mountain.
After a short rest at the foot of the mountain, we began walking the Ten-mile Gallery. However, due to the flood in 1999, the stream in Ten-mile Gallery had dried up, leaving only a barren riverbed, so we finished the gallery in a very short time.
After the tour, we went directly to Wulingyuan Coach Station and took a bus to Changsha. Before leaving Zhangjiajie, we ate at a restaurant next to the coach station, having truly authentic Zhangjiajie cuisine. Previously, we had just grabbed random bites, but this time we finally enjoyed a feast—really delicious, good taste, warm service, and affordable prices. Worth recommending!
At Yuelu Mountain, I kept walking until after 1 PM before remembering to have lunch. Without exaggeration, the potstickers at this shop were the most delicious I’ve ever had. They weren’t greasy at all; the skin was golden and crispy but not dry or hard, and the meat filling was fresh and tasty. Just thinking about it makes me want to fly back to Changsha for another serving.
After eating, I continued strolling and discovered this area was the university district, nestled against the mountain with ancient towering trees. How lucky the college students in Changsha are—no wonder it’s said, "Only in Chu are talents abundant, and this place is the best."
View of Orange Island from Orange Island Bridge
Before heading back, I couldn’t resist going to Hunan Normal University to eat more potstickers. After my trip to Changsha, the biggest feeling was that it was the most unremarkable stop in terms of scenery, but it was where I ate the most comfortably and satisfyingly. My return flight wasn’t delayed. Up in the air, I thought about all the sights and people I had encountered in these seven days. The mountains I climbed in these seven days might be more than those I’ll climb in the coming year. All these beautiful moments will forever stay in my memory—I’ve recorded them and will treasure them always.
Travelogue Directory: 1. Fenghuang Ancient Town 2. Zhangjiajie—Tianmen Fox Fairy 3. Wulingyuan 4. Wulingyuan 5. Changsha
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