Four-Day Trip to Yueyang and Changsha

During the days of pandemic lockdown, I looked through photos from last year and wanted to share the four-day trip to Yueyang and Changsha with friends.

The three great towers south of the Yangtze River: Yueyang Tower, Yellow Crane Tower, and Prince Teng Pavilion. I had never seen Yueyang Tower before, so this opportunity of four consecutive days off allowed me to visit both Yueyang Tower and Changsha.

Yueyang, known as "Baling" in ancient times, is one of the earliest ancient cities south of the Yangtze River, renowned for "Dongting Lake's waters under heaven, Yueyang Tower under heaven."

Changsha — "Famous city of Chu and Han" — features historical and cultural attractions such as the Mawangdui Han Tombs, Tianxin Pavilion, Yuelu Academy, Orange Isle, and Hunan University.

Time: Four days, April 19–22, 2021

Transport: High-speed rail, subway, bus, taxi

Accommodation: Near Huangxing Pedestrian Street — Lixin Ruixuan Changsha South Gate Pedestrian Street Hotel, 223×3=669 yuan

Expenses: G1772 Shanghai Hongqiao — Yueyang East, 434.5 yuan/ticket

G695 Yueyang East — Changsha South, 69.5 yuan/ticket

G578 Changsha South — Shanghai Hongqiao, 502 yuan/ticket

Tickets: Yueyang Tower — 35 yuan (reduced due to renovation, original 70 yuan), Hunan Provincial Museum — free, Tianxin Pavilion — 30 yuan, Yuelu Academy — 40 yuan, Orange Isle — free (electric cart 100 yuan)

April 13: Yueyang Tower

Departed at 6:53 AM on G1772, arrived at Yueyang East at 12:14 PM.

After exiting the station, scanned the local health code. No luggage storage available, so had to carry it. Took a taxi directly to the Yueyang Tower scenic area. Had lunch on Bianhe Street near the entrance, trying the Dongting Lake yellow croaker tofu soup and water spinach.

After eating, walked along Bianhe Street to the gate of Yueyang Tower. Bianhe Street is situated before the main tower, offering views of the Yangtze River from the railing. The staggered bluestone paths and melodious guqin music add charm to this antique-style street.

The Yueyang Tower scenic area consists of the Five Dynasties Tower Views, Shuang Gong Shrine, New Stele Corridor, Yueyang Tower, Sanzui Pavilion, Meixian Pavilion, Xiao Qiao's Tomb, Iron Shackles, and Huaifu Pavilion. The south gate was under renovation, so I had to take a photo from inside.

Upon entering the scenic area, the first thing in view is the Five Dynasties Tower Views — miniature bronze replicas of five different styles of Yueyang Tower from the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. These models were meticulously crafted in brass based on ancient records and paintings by artists of each dynasty.

Shuang Gong Shrine — built to commemorate the two sages Fan Zhongyan and Teng Zijing, adopting the Ming and Qing dynasty ancestral hall architectural style of northern Hunan.

Stele Corridor — located on the east side of Yueyang Tower, nearly a hundred meters long, with red pillars and green tiles, colorful eaves, ancient and elegant yet delicate and agile.

Yueyang Tower — the foremost of the three great towers south of the Yangtze River, along with Prince Teng Pavilion in Nanchang, Jiangxi, and Yellow Crane Tower in Wuhan, Hubei. Located at the west gate of Baling Ancient City, close to the shore of Dongting Lake. Built in 214 AD, with a history of over 1,800 years. Its predecessor was the "Reviewing Military Tower" built by Lu Su, a general of Eastern Wu. It has long been famous for the saying "Dongting Lake's waters under heaven, Yueyang Tower under heaven." Unfortunately, it was under renovation during my visit.

Site of the Commanding General's Platform — where in 214 AD, Lu Su led a million troops to guard Baling and train the navy.

The back gate of Yueyang Tower connects to the lake water.

Huaifu Pavilion — built in 1962 by the people of Yueyang in memory of the Tang Dynasty poet Du Fu.

Xiao Qiao's Tomb — Xiao Qiao was the wife of Zhou Yu, a famous general of Eastern Wu, known for her stunning beauty.

The three great towers south of the Yangtze River.

At 17:51, took G695 from Yueyang East to Changsha South, arrived at 18:25. Took the subway and checked into Lixin Ruixuan Changsha South Gate Pedestrian Street Hotel.

Dropped off luggage and strolled along Huangxing Road Pedestrian Street, eating and drinking.

April 20 itinerary: Yuelu Academy, Orange Isle. Transport: subway.

Got off at Hunan University subway station, walked forward past Zibi Pavilion — the name comes from the phrase "If you want to climb high, start from the low." This pavilion was built in the 17th year of Jiaqing of Qing Dynasty (1812) and is one of the scenic spots of Yuelu.

Across the road is the campus of Hunan University.

Yuelu Academy, founded in 976 AD, and in 1950 Mao Zedong personally inscribed the school name "Hunan University."

Yuelu Academy — one of the four most famous academies in Chinese history, one of the oldest institutions of learning in the world. It was founded in the 9th year of Kaibao of Northern Song (976 AD) and its ancient traditional academy buildings have been preserved intact. The ancient architectural complex of Yuelu Academy is divided into five sections: teaching, library, sacrificial, garden, and memorial. The main buildings from south to north are: Front Gate, Hexi Platform, Main Gate, Second Gate, Lecture Hall, and Imperial Library Building, all centered on the central axis. The lecture hall is located in the middle of the axis, with dormitories and sacrificial halls arranged on both sides.

Yuelu Academy Tour Map (buildings and attractions distribution).

Upon entering the academy, you can see the Hexi Platform in the distance — built in the 7th year of Jiajing of Ming Dynasty (1528), located in front of Yuelu Academy, built by Zhang Shi to commemorate the wonderful times he watched the sunrise and studied with Zhu Xi. On the left and right walls of the platform are the characters "Fu" (blessing) and "Shou" (longevity), each 1.3 meters high, with a beautiful legend.

According to legend, in 1807 (12th year of Jiaqing), when Luo Dian attended the Deer Cry Banquet again, a Taoist-like person came to the academy claiming to be good at calligraphy and poetry. The scholars saw him as a Taoist and did not formally receive him. Unexpectedly, the Taoist picked up a broom, dipped it in yellow muddy water, and wrote the character "Shou" on the right wall in one stroke, then left without saying goodbye. The character looked like a dragon and snake coiling, vigorous and powerful, and was considered a "trace of immortals." Later, to achieve symmetry, Luo Dian added a "Fu" character on the left wall.

A double-sided screen is placed in the middle of Hexi Platform, with a plan of the restored Yuelu Academy on one side and poems by Zhu Xi, Zhang Shi, Wang Shouren, and Mao Zedong on the other.

Main Gate — built in the Ming Dynasty. The horizontal board above the gate reads "Yuelu Academy" (岳麓书院) handwritten by Emperor Zhenzong of Song. The original board was destroyed in the War of Resistance against Japan, and a replica was made in 1984 based on historical photographs.

The stone drums on both sides of the gate are white marble carvings.

Entering the main gate, you see the Second Gate of Yuelu Academy.

Passing the Second Gate, you reach the core area of Yuelu Academy — the Lecture Hall.

Lecture Hall — also known as 'Jing Hall' or 'Zhong, Xiao, Lian, Jie' Hall, it was the main place for teaching and major activities of the academy.

Inside the lecture hall, there are three plaques: the school motto "Seek Truth from Facts" (实事求 是), "Learn to Reach Nature" (学达性天) bestowed by Emperor Kangxi, and "Orthodox Lineage of the Way" (道南正脉) bestowed by Emperor Qianlong.

Imperial Library Building — built in the 2nd year of Xianping of Northern Song (999 AD), over 1,000 years old, one of the oldest library buildings today. It is a three-story attic structure in Song style, antique and elegant. Due to its quiet environment, it is an excellent place for reading and research. It holds over 100,000 volumes, mostly works of Neo-Confucian scholars from Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing, and is not open to the public.

It was built in 1796 during the Jiaqing period of Qing Dynasty to exclusively worship Qu Yuan, the great patriotic poet of the Warring States period.

Teaching Zhai — where ancient students studied and teachers taught.

The Confucian Temple is located on the left side of the academy, consisting of a screen wall, gate tower, Dacheng Gate, Dacheng Hall, side corridors, Chongsheng Shrine, and Minglun Hall. Although destroyed and rebuilt many times, the architectural layout remains unchanged. It is the largest and most highly specified Confucian temple in a Chinese academy, built to imperial architectural standards, unique among all academies in the country.

The screen wall is in Ming and Qing architectural style.

Dacheng Gate was built in the 7th year of Tongzhi of Qing (1868).

Dacheng Hall — the main building of the Confucian Temple, with a double-eave hip-and-gable roof, yellow glazed tiles, caisson ceiling, and carved dragons and phoenixes.

Chongsheng Shrine — a place to worship the five generations of ancestors of Confucius.

Si Zhen Pavilion — dedicated to Cheng Hao (1032–1082) and Cheng Yi (1033–1107), both educators and founders of Neo-Confucianism in the Northern Song, who studied under Zhou Dunyi and were known as the "Two Chengs."

China Academy Museum — the first national museum in China dedicated to the history of Chinese academies and education history. It has five exhibition halls displaying the thousand-year development history of ancient Chinese academies, learning tools, and teaching methods.

After visiting Yuelu Academy, took the subway to Orange Isle.

Orange Isle — the largest among the many alluvial sandbars in the lower reaches of the Xiang River, known as "China's First Isle."

If you are physically fit, you can walk and sightsee; otherwise, it's recommended to take the small electric cart.

Site of the former Standard Oil Company building.

In the evening, Changsha streets were still crowded with tourists. Walked along Huangxing South Road to the Fire God Palace.

Huangxing South Road street view.

At each Chayanyuese (Sexy Tea) shop on the pedestrian street, long queues of tourists formed, probably like me, coming to Changsha to try this trendy tea drink.

Fire God Palace — built before the 5th year of Wanli of Ming (1577), with a history of over 400 years. It is a representative public venue integrating traditional folk culture, fire temple culture, and food culture.

April 21: Hunan Museum, Tianxin Pavilion.

Hunan Provincial Museum — first built in the 23rd year of Guangxu of Qing (1897), one of China's first batch of national first-class museums, and one of eight national key museums jointly built by central and local governments. It houses the famous Mawangdui Han Tomb artifacts. After breakfast, took the subway there, walked for 20 minutes, entered after online reservation, scanning the health code, and security check. Went directly to the third floor's "Mawangdui Han Tomb Artifacts" exhibition hall.

Mawangdui Han Tombs — the burial site of Li Cang, the Chancellor of the Changsha Kingdom in the Western Han, and his family (his wife and son). Over 3,000 precious artifacts were unearthed, documenting the lifestyle, burial concepts, lacquerware, well-preserved female corpse, coffins, silk fabrics, silk manuscripts, silk paintings, and herbal medicines, which can be regarded as an "encyclopedia" of the time. It is one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of the 20th century.

From the unearthed seals, the identity of the tomb owner was revealed: the family cemetery of Li Cang, the Chancellor of the Changsha Kingdom and Marquis of Dai in the early Western Han.

The household utensils of the Marquis of Dai from over 2,000 years ago were all lacquerware.

Snacks: bayberry and sweet melon seeds.

"Chanyi Su Sha" (plain silk garment) is the earliest, lightest, and thinnest garment treasure known to date, a highly renowned cultural relic.

I believe you will be equally amazed at the museum by the exquisite skills of people over 2,000 years ago.

Tianxin Pavilion — one of China's top ten historical and cultural towers. You are probably familiar with it. With a long history and rich culture, China has preserved many famous towers, such as Prince Teng Pavilion (Nanchang), Yueyang Tower (Yueyang), Yellow Crane Tower (Wuhan), Guanque Tower (Yongji, Shanxi), Penglai Pavilion (Penglai, Shandong), Daguan Tower (Kunming), Yuejiang Tower (Nanjing), Tianxin Pavilion (Changsha), Bell and Drum Tower (Xi'an), and Tianyi Pavilion (Ningbo). These ten towers have become treasures of Chinese culture.

Tianxin Pavilion is a city gate tower of ancient Changsha, first built in the 11th year of Qianlong (1746) under the supervision of Governor Yang Xijie. It has been destroyed and rebuilt several times due to wars. It is now the only surviving physical relic of ancient Changsha's city wall and the sole remaining city landmark of Changsha.

After entering, you will see:

A tower 6.6 meters high, made entirely of granite, with a hexagonal base and a circular disk and cylinder forming the body. On top of the cylinder rests a sphere symbolizing the earth, with a map of China carved on its surface. Above the sphere stands a stone lion looking into the distance, symbolizing the inviolability of China's territory and national integrity.

A memorial archway in the Tianxin Pavilion scenic area, built in 1946, made entirely of granite to commemorate the soldiers who died in the three great battles of the War of Resistance against Japan in Changsha.

Chonglie Pavilion — built at the end of the Qing and beginning of the Republic of China. In 1929, it was renamed to the National Humiliation Commemorative Pavilion to commemorate the May 3rd Incident.

It is an ancient building in Ming Dynasty Han architectural style. During the Hongwu period of Ming (1368–1398), Qiu Guang, the garrison commander of Changsha, built the city walls of Changsha, replacing the Yuan Dynasty earthen walls with stone foundations and bricks. Only 251 meters of the ancient city wall near Tianxin Pavilion remain; the rest has been demolished.

The cannon platforms and cannons on the Tianxin Pavilion city wall.

The ancient city wall of Tianxin Pavilion.

Exit the Tianxin Pavilion scenic area from here.

Had another two cups of Chayanyuese — you know the taste.

April 22: Huangxing Pedestrian Street, Zhongshan Pavilion, Chuanshan Academy.

"Old Changsha" series bronze sculptures.

Zhongshan Pavilion — built in July 1930 in memory of Dr. Sun Yat-sen. The clock tower is Gothic-style and has been standing for over 90 years, witnessing the great changes of Changsha. It also marked the beginning of public standard time in Changsha.

Chuanshan Academy — the former site of Hunan Self-Study University. It was originally the ancestral hall of Zeng Guofan, built in 1875, initially as "Sixian Lecture Hall." In the 3rd year of the Republic of China (1914), Liu Weilu (Liu Renxi) from Liuyang, together with progressive social figures, established the "Chuanshan Academy" here to study the academic thoughts of Wang Chuanshan, a great thinker of the late Ming and early Qing. It is a single-story, three-courtyard compound. In 1921, Mao Zedong and He Shuheng founded the Self-Study University here.

At noon, returned to the hotel to pack and head home. The four-day trip was quite rewarding.