Enchanting Western Hunan – Summer Trip 2022
Enchanting Western Hunan – Summer Trip 2022
Originally, I had planned a self-guided trip to Fujian this summer, but it was difficult to execute; first, there was the epidemic in Fujian, and second, my wife also wanted to go out for a tour. She and her colleagues had previously considered going to Xinjiang as a group, but it didn't work out. After weighing the options, I added a WeChat account and signed up for a 5-day, 4-night local tour group in Zhangjiajie, and the two of us went traveling together. Originally, we planned to fly there, but the plane tickets were shockingly expensive—mainly because the current ticket price includes the airport construction fee and fuel surcharge, which drove the price up significantly. So, for the two of us, taking a train with sleeper berths cost only a fraction of the airfare.
D1: Took the K2288 train to Zhangjiajie Station. The tour company driver picked us up and arranged accommodation at Longxiang International Hotel. Although the train was delayed by over four hours, we still signed the tour contract and settled into our lodging before 2 PM. Then, we took a bus to Dayongfu City. Dayongfu City is mainly a bar street, quiet during the day. Fortunately, next to it is Baiyang Ancient Temple (Puguang Zen Temple), a complex of ancient buildings including the Confucian Temple, Martial Temple, City God Temple, Songliang Academy, etc. Only Puguang Temple, Martial Temple, and Wenchang Shrine remain; the rest have been damaged. The main buildings of Puguang Zen Temple include the Great Mountain Gate, Second Mountain Gate, Mahavira Hall, Arhat Hall, Guanyin Hall, etc. The Zhangjiajie Buddhist Association is located inside the temple. The full-price ticket is 80 RMB, which is a bit high. Unless you have a special interest, it is suggested that you can skip this place.
After leaving Puguang Zen Temple, we strolled to Huilongguan Park, which is mainly a fitness trail for residents; we didn't enter. Instead, we walked to Dayong Ancient City, a modern imitation ancient architectural complex built artificially. It is not yet fully completed or commercialized, but it is open to the public, so we went in for a stroll. Then we crossed to the South Gate Snack Street to eat and shop before returning to the hotel to rest. (These spots are very close and can be reached on foot.)
Baiyang Ancient Temple (Puguang Zen Temple)
South Gate Food Street
D2: Zhangjiajie Forest Park
Starting today, we officially followed the tour group. In the morning, a bus picked up our temporary group and headed straight to Zhangjiajie Forest Park (Wulingyuan). On the bus, the male tour guide introduced himself and then talked about local customs and culture. Of course, the focus was on how this area was a bandit den before liberation, and the government’s anti-bandit efforts made little progress until Premier Zhou’s negotiations led to peaceful liberation. The guide explained that Zhangjiajie is both mysterious and beautiful—mysterious referring to its culture, beautiful referring to its landscapes. The mystery includes corpse walking, witchcraft, and many inexplicable shamanic arts. Many people have never seen them with their own eyes, but rumors spread from one to ten, ten to a hundred, becoming more and more exaggerated.
We entered from Yangjiajie, took the scenic area shuttle, and then a cable car to Yuanjiajie. We didn’t explore Yangjiajie at all. After the guide brought everyone to Yuanjiajie, he told us how to walk and where to meet, but didn’t explain much else, just asked us to follow the route he described. So, we vaguely visited the Avatar filming location, the Hallelujah Mountain prototype (Qiankun Pillar), the Lost Soul Terrace, the Heart-Linking Bridge, the First Bridge Under Heaven, etc. It can be described as enlarged bonsai and miniature world.
Yangjiajie Stone Great Wall (5 minutes from the cable car; this was the only spot we visited in Yangjiajie)
On the railing of First Bridge Under Heaven, there were locks and red cloth strips for blessings.
At noon, the guide quickly led us through lunch, then we took a bus to Huangshizhai Scenic Area and rode the cable car to the top. The guide handed our group over to a local guide wearing Tujia ethnic costume. Under the Tujia guide’s leadership, we visited Star-Picking Terrace, Double Gates Welcoming Guests, and Six Wonders Pavilion.
Actually, this guide had an ulterior motive: he led us into the Six Wonders Pavilion and had each group member take a small card corresponding to their zodiac animal. I didn’t take one because I knew there would be a trap. Sure enough, after everyone got their cards, the guide made us sit down and listen to him talk about Tujia Timaxi culture—an intangible cultural heritage that was once labeled as “superstition.” Timaxi is essentially Tujia shamans. Shamans perform witchcraft. After a brief explanation, the guide had each family take their small card to another room where a “disciple of Timaxi” would interpret it for them. The only family that didn’t take a card was ours, so the guide didn’t pressure us much because he knew he would make a good income from the others. Sure enough, when the others came out, I saw they weren’t happy. Since we didn’t know each other well, communication was limited, but I learned that the most someone paid was 1000 RMB, and the least was 100 RMB. After this guide finished his task, we returned to our original guide, who took us to Golden Whip Stream. I knew this itinerary was completely unreasonable—many scenic spots (like Ten Mile Gallery) were omitted—but since we were with a tour group, I followed the principle that everything happens for the best, and as long as I kept a close eye on my wallet, it would be fine. When we arrived at Golden Whip Stream, the guide allowed us fifty minutes of free time while he sat aside and waited.
There were many monkeys by Golden Whip Stream.
Originally, the contract arranged two days for Zhangjiajie Forest Park, but this guide compressed it into one day. I vaguely sensed that he was saving time for shopping later.
D3: Tianmen Mountain, Baofeng Lake
In the morning, we took a bus to Tianmen Mountain. On the first day, each of us paid the guide 623 RMB (total) for the small scenic transports and cable cars. The amount we paid the tour company did not include these. So, we followed the guide, taking escalators and cable cars, and that was our entire tour of Tianmen Mountain. We only viewed the Tianmen Cave from a distance, went to the top of the cave, experienced the glass skywalk, but did not visit other sites like Tianmen Temple or the Wingsuit Gliding Platform.
Sign for the 99th Bend
Glass Skywalk: In my opinion, the glass skywalk was nowhere near as scary as others had said. Even I, who is afraid of heights, walked across it calmly. Everyone should not be afraid, because the glass skywalk is very well-protected; there is no way you could fall.
Baofeng Lake mainly features the Water Curtain Cave exterior from Journey to the West and a giant salamander exhibition.
D4: Shopping, Furong Town, Fenghuang Ancient Town
The guide’s main task began. In the morning, we visited two shopping stops. As soon as we got on the bus, the guide spared no effort in introducing jade and jadeite, and mentioned how impoverished Zhangjiajie is. Buying or not buying required an attitude—essentially, every tourist had to contribute something. At the first jade shopping stop, a salesperson first introduced the products, then each family was assigned a salesperson to assist with shopping. I didn’t need anything, but I knew I had to spend some money here; otherwise, the guide would likely say unpleasant things later on the bus. So, I spent a small amount to buy peace. I found out about a cheap area and bought a bracelet for 400 RMB, which counted as consumption. Then I waited in the assembly area for the other group members. Notice how the guide was much more active here than at the scenic spots—he followed our members and helped with introductions. At the scenic spots, he didn’t accompany us or explain anything. The jade shopping stop was his main business. If he had put half this effort into the scenic spots, I would believe that the future of Zhangjiajie tourism is bright. But if they keep working like this, Zhangjiajie tourism will end up with a bad reputation like Yunnan’s. Only after every family had made a purchase were we allowed to leave. Finally, one family hadn’t bought anything. The guide kept following them and didn’t assemble or lead the group. I told that family to just buy something cheap from the bargain area. After they did, we all took the bus to the next specialty agricultural product stop for more shopping. There, each family spent some more money. On the bus, the guide shared dried meat, dried fish, and dried tofu with each of us, then said these were the driver’s hard-earned commission—the driver earns about 2000 RMB per month, which is not enough to support his family, so he only makes a living by selling local products on the bus. Thus, everyone bought 5 bags for 300 RMB. Finally, only two families hadn’t bought, including us. The guide came to me and said, “Buy a little something.” He didn’t say much and didn’t force me, but at this point, he directly reminded me to buy some. Could I refuse? In the end, I spent 100 RMB on 2 bags of dried tofu. After everyone on the bus had shopped, we arrived at the restaurant for lunch around 1 PM. After lunch, we got back on the bus and were joined by a new female guide. After a brief introduction, we headed to Furong Town. When buying tickets, the guide delayed for over half an hour; it seemed she was helping another group’s guide, which wasted some time.
We hurriedly passed through the large waterfall, then stood in a long line to take a boat back. The ancient town inside wasn’t visited at all. We traveled until about 8 PM and arrived at Fenghuang Ancient Town, where accommodations were arranged and we had free time. We only had this one evening to enjoy the ancient town, and we had to find our own dinner. We walked through the brightly lit ancient town while eating.
This picture is of Shen Congwen’s Former Residence.
D5: Hangwurong Miao Village, Tusi City, Disband
This was a targeted poverty alleviation site. Since it was a poverty alleviation point, I spent over 3000 RMB here on silver jewelry.
Long-table meal, but without the toast performance.
After visiting Tusi City, we disbanded on the spot. Those who needed to be taken to the station were arranged by the driver. Only two families in our group needed station drop-offs; the others had their own plans locally.
We took a train from Zhangjiajie West Station to Changsha, and spent the night at the Thank Inn chain hotel near the train station. Since I had been to Changsha before, this trip was only to accompany my wife to explore the city, so I won’t go into detail. I’ll just record the day’s route with pictures.
First stop: We took a bus to Hunan Provincial Museum. The line was already very long. We stood and queued for about half an hour when a staff member came to maintain order. I went up to ask what code I needed to scan. I overheard a tourist saying they had booked tickets for Changsha Museum, and the staff reminded them that it was not the Provincial Museum, so they should go there instead and not queue here. I quickly asked if I could enter without a reservation. The staff told me that without a reservation, I couldn’t visit today, and tickets for the next five days were already fully booked. Great—I had waited in line for nothing. We left immediately.
Second stop: Yuelu Academy and Love Dusk Pavilion. We took a bus to Hunan University Station and walked to Yuelu Academy. After exiting, we walked to Love Dusk Pavilion, then through the snack street before exiting.
Third stop: Orange Island.
Fourth stop: Hunan First Normal University (1913–1918 summer: Mao Zedong studied in the eighth class here. From autumn 1920 to winter 1921, the school hired Mao as head of the affiliated primary school and a teacher of national language. During this period, Mao was secretly engaged in the work of founding the Communist Party of China and establishing the Xiang District Committee of the CPC. This site is not open to the public; it is currently an elementary school.
Fifth stop: Pozi Street (Fire Palace), Taiping Street.
This concludes my journal-like record of the Western Hunan trip. Originally, before this trip, I imagined the scenery would be beautiful, and I had planned a travelogue title: “Enchanting Western Hunan – Fall in Love with Zhangjiajie, Encounter Beauty, Summer 2022.” However, because the tour company omitted many scenic spots, the title no longer needs “Fall in Love with Zhangjiajie.” I hope the Zhangjiajie tourism market can be further regulated so that people will want to come again, thereby sustainably boosting the local economy.
