Revisiting Changsha
On April 23, 2023, I traveled to Changsha, Hunan for a business conference. Despite overcast skies and rain, after reporting to the conference venue in the afternoon and resting briefly, I took a taxi to Yuelu Academy around 2:30 PM.
This trip to Changsha was actually a revisit after nearly thirty-three years. My first visit to Changsha was in early June 1989, when I traveled from Fuzhou, Fujian to Yulin, Guangxi on business. During a layover in Zhuzhou, I made a special trip to the provincial capital Changsha, visiting Yuelu Academy and Orange Isle, and also took the Shao 1 train to Shaoshan. In the summer of 1990, I passed through Changsha again on my way from Lushan, Jiangxi to Zhangjiajie, Hunan. More than thirty years had passed in a flash, and Changsha had transformed from the ordinary provincial capital of central-south China as I remembered into a trendy food and tourism city popular on social media.
Yuelu Academy is located at the eastern foot of Yuelu Mountain on the west bank of the Xiang River in Changsha. It is one of the four famous academies in Chinese history. Founded in the ninth year of the Kaibao era of the Northern Song Dynasty (976 AD), it was built with government funds by Zhu Dong, the prefect of Tanzhou, on the basis of a monastery school. In the eighth year of the Xiangfu era of the Northern Song Dynasty (1015 AD), Emperor Zhenzong summoned Zhou Shi, the academy's head, and granted the calligraphic plaque with the four characters "Yuelu Academy". Throughout its history, Yuelu Academy experienced multiple wars and was destroyed and rebuilt seven times. It went through the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. In the 29th year of the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (1903), it was converted into Hunan Higher School, and in 1926 it was officially named Hunan University. In 1988, the Yuelu Academy building complex was approved by the State Council as the third batch of national key cultural relics protection units.
In my memory of over thirty years ago, Yuelu Academy had towering ancient trees, elegant and solemn ancient buildings. Although there were some school buildings nearby, the area in front of the academy was relatively open and spacious. Now, however, it is surrounded by Hunan University, hidden deep within the campus. Walking into the Hunan University campus, I made my way to the gate of Yuelu Academy. I paid forty yuan for a ticket and entered.
The ancient building complex of Yuelu Academy is divided into five major architectural layouts: teaching, book storage, sacrificial, garden, and memorial. The layout adopts a symmetrical central axis with multiple deep courtyards.
Main buildings such as the Front Gate, Main Gate, Second Gate, Lecture Hall, and Imperial Book Tower are arranged along the central axis, with the Lecture Hall placed at the center. Study rooms and sacrificial shrines are arranged on both sides. The symmetrical central axis and layered courtyards not only create a solemn, mysterious, and profound depth and visual effect but also reflect the Confucian social ethics of hierarchy, order, and distinction. Most of the existing main buildings of Yuelu Academy are structures from the Qing Dynasty, and some buildings destroyed in wars have been restored in recent years.
The Front Gate of the academy is clearly a newly built structure from recent years. Yuelu Academy has continued its scholarly tradition for a thousand years. It is now a subordinate college of Hunan University, where history and philosophy are taught. It is fitting to call Yuelu Academy the "Millennium Academy."
Passing the Front Gate, one reaches the Hexi Terrace. This terrace was originally built on the top of Yuelu Mountain in the seventh year of the Jiajing era of the Ming Dynasty (1528 AD) by Prefect Sun Cun. Wang Yangming once wrote a poem: "Longing for Yuelu across the river, thunder and rain over Xiaoxiang day and night. How can a light breeze clear the mist, so I can straighten my robe and ascend Hexi Terrace." It later fell into disrepair. In the 55th year of the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty (1790 AD), Luo Dian, the head of Yuelu Academy, moved the Hexi Terrace to the front of the academy.
Past the Hexi Terrace is the famous Main Gate of Yuelu Academy.
This gate was rebuilt in the seventh year of the Tongzhi era of the Qing Dynasty (1868 AD). It adopts the southern general-style gate structure, built on twelve steps, with five bays and a hard mountain roof, featuring a three-mountain screen wall, a pair of square stone pillars in front, white walls and green tiles, and glazed gutters and decorative ridge ends. The beams are painted with dragons playing with the Tai Chi symbol, interspersed with curling grass and cloud patterns. The overall style is dignified and graceful.
The plaque above the gate bears the characters "Yuelu Academy" in the calligraphy of Emperor Zhenzong of the Song Dynasty. On both sides of the gate hang a couplet: "Only Chu has talent, and it flourishes here." The first line is from Zuo Zhuan, the 26th year of Duke Xiang, and the second line is from The Analects of Confucius, Tai Bo. Derived from classics, the couplet expresses profound meaning. The plaque and couplet of the Yuelu Academy Main Gate reveal the solid foundation and grandeur of a millennium academy producing a galaxy of talents.
The Second Gate of Yuelu Academy was rebuilt in 1984. I must have passed through it during my visit over thirty years ago, but I have no memory of it. This time, I rediscovered it. Above the gate hangs a plaque with the characters "Mingshan Tanxi" (Famous Mountain Forum), compiled from the calligraphy of the famous Qing Dynasty Hunanese calligrapher He Shaoji. On both sides is a couplet: "Admitted into the great forest; hidden in the famous mountain." The first line is from Shangshu, Shun Canon, and the second line is from Records of the Grand Historian, Autobiography of the Grand Historian. It means that Yuelu Academy is nestled within vast forests and hidden in the broad and rich Yuelu Mountain. The couplet was composed by Cheng Songwan, the supervisor of Hunan Higher School in the late Qing Dynasty.
On the back of the Second Gate hangs a plaque with the characters "Xiaoxiang Huaishi" (Xiaoxiang Scholar Market). The original was composed by Cheng Songwan, a Qing Dynasty school inspector, and was destroyed during the War of Resistance. Later, a new plaque was inscribed by Chu Tunan, former vice-chairman of the National People's Congress and chairman of the China Democratic League. "Xiaoxiang Huaishi" means that Yuelu Academy is a gathering place for Hunan literati and scholars, implying a flourishing of talents comparable to the Huaishi (Scholar Market) of the Imperial College in Chang'an during the Han Dynasty.
Passing the Second Gate, deep in the front courtyard lies the Lecture Hall of Yuelu Academy. Above the eaves of the Lecture Hall hangs a plaque with the characters "Shishi Qiushi" (Seek Truth from Facts), composed by Bu Buchen, the principal of Hunan Public Industrial College in the early Republic of China. "Shishi Qiushi" originates from the Book of Han, Biography of Liu De, Prince of Hejian. Bu Buchen adopted it as the school motto when Yuelu Academy was converted into Hunan Engineering School, aiming to educate students to uphold science and pursue truth. This had a profound influence on Mao Zedong, who once resided at Yuelu Academy, and later became a core component of Mao Zedong Thought.
The Lecture Hall of Yuelu Academy is located at the center of the academy and is the main venue for teaching and major events, as well as the core part of the academy. Since its founding in the ninth year of the Kaibao era of the Northern Song Dynasty (976 AD), the Lecture Hall has consisted of five bays. During my visit over thirty years ago, my deepest impression was of this Lecture Hall, especially the four large stone steles inscribed with the characters "Loyalty, Filial Piety, Integrity, and Thrift" (Zhong, Xiao, Lian, Jie), said to be handwritten by Zhu Xi.
In the center of the hall hang two gilded wooden plaques: one reads "Xueda Xingtian" (Learning Reaches Nature), bestowed by Emperor Kangxi in the spring of the 26th year of the Kangxi era (1687) to encourage Yuelu Academy to promote Neo-Confucianism and enhance self-cultivation. The original was destroyed, and in 1983 it was recarved based on old photos of Kangxi's calligraphy. The second reads "Daonan Zhengmai" (Orthodox Southern Lineage), bestowed by Emperor Qianlong in the eighth year of the Qianlong era (1743) to commend Yuelu Academy's achievements in spreading the Neo-Confucianism of Zhu Xi and Zhang Shi, indicating the academy's status in the history of Chinese Neo-Confucian dissemination. This plaque is the original.
Below the plaques, on the front of the screen wall of the Lecture Hall, is engraved the "Record of Yuelu Academy" (Yuelu Shuyuan Ji), written by Zhang Shi, a Neo-Confucian scholar and the academy's head, in the second year of the Qiandao era of the Southern Song Dynasty (1166). This record serves as the basic outline for cultivating talents at Yuelu Academy and had a significant impact on the academy's education.
On the lecture platform in front of the screen wall are placed two lectern chairs, symbolizing the famous Zhu-Zhang Lecture Debate of the third year of the Qiandao era of the Southern Song Dynasty (1167). That year, Neo-Confucian scholars Zhang Shi and Zhu Xi held a "joint lecture" at Yuelu Academy, pioneering the tradition of academic debates in Chinese academies.
In the first year of the Qiandao era of the Southern Song Dynasty (1165), the renowned Neo-Confucian Zhang Shi became the head of Yuelu Academy. In the autumn of the third year of the Qiandao era (1167), Zhu Xi, accompanied by his disciple Lin Yongzhong, traveled two thousand li from Chong'an, Fujian, to Tanzhou (now Changsha, Hunan) to visit Yuelu Academy on the banks of the Xiang River to exchange and discuss scholarship with Zhang Shi. One represented the Min school of Neo-Confucianism, and the other represented the Huxiang school. They debated for three days and three nights, attracting scholars from all over who braved mountains and rivers to gather and listen at this mountain courtyard on the west bank of the Xiang River. The scene was unprecedented: "There was not enough room for the attending scholars, and even the horse-watering pond dried up." This event is historically known as the "Zhu-Zhang Lecture Debate." Ultimately, Zhu and Zhang reached consensus on many points. Zhang Shi adjusted the development direction of the Huxiang school, and Zhu Xi's "Neutral Old Theory" decisively transformed into the "Neutral New Theory." This debate was the first free exchange and critical discussion between different schools in the history of Chinese academies, promoting the development of Song Neo-Confucianism and ancient Chinese philosophy. Eight years later, the Ehu Debate at White Deer Grotto Academy in Jiangxi and Ehu Academy in Qianshan between Zhu Xi and Lu Jiuyuan and his brothers took place, and by the Ming Dynasty, academic debates became common.
The Zhu-Zhang Lecture Debate also highlighted the status of the Huxiang school based at Yuelu Academy, ensuring that the academy's scholarly tradition continued through the dynasties. Large numbers of scholars from Hunan and neighboring provinces came to Yuelu Academy to study and inquire about the Way and explore the classics. Some even lamented that they could not complete their studies at Huxiang. The Yuan Dynasty Neo-Confucian Wu Cheng wrote in his "Record of Rebuilding Yuelu Academy": "From then on, Yuelu as Yuelu was not the Yuelu of before!"
Twenty-seven years after the Zhu-Zhang Lecture Debate and fourteen years after Zhang Shi's death, in the fifth year of the Shaoxi era of the Southern Song Dynasty (1194), Zhu Xi served as the pacification commissioner of Hunan and came again to Yuelu Academy in Tanzhou to lecture, reorganize the academy, promulgate the "Zhu Xi Academy Rules," and rebuild the academy "on a dry and open site, with a completely new layout." After Zhu Xi's renovation, Yuelu Academy entered another period of prosperity. In the second year of the Zhengde era of the Ming Dynasty (1507), Wang Yangming, a master of the School of Mind, and his disciples gave lectures at Yuelu Academy, ushering in another academic flourishing period.
Embedded in the walls on both sides of the Lecture Hall are four large stone steles with the characters "Zhong, Xiao, Lian, Jie" (Loyalty, Filial Piety, Integrity, Thrift), said to be handwritten by Zhu Xi, erected by Ouyang Houjun, the head of Yuelu Academy, in the seventh year of the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty (1827).
On the side corridors of the Lecture Hall stand four large stone steles with the characters "Zheng, Qi, Yan, Su" (Orderly, Neat, Strict, Solemn), inscribed by Ouyang Zhenghuan, a head of Yuelu Academy during the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty, and erected by Ouyang Houjun during the Daoguang era. These two sets of large-character stele inscriptions are rare in the history of Chinese calligraphy and stele carving.
On both sides of the Lecture Hall are the North and South Study Rooms, known as the Teaching Study and the Half-Learning Study, respectively. These were formerly residences for teachers and students, where students spent much of their time in self-study. Yuelu Academy has a long history of building study rooms. Since its founding in the ninth year of the Kaibao era (976 AD), it originally had 52 rooms. The existing buildings were reconstructed in the 29th year of the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (1903) when the academy was converted into a school, and they were named Teaching Study and Half-Learning Study to meet teaching and office needs. The name "Teaching Study" comes from the Book of Rites, Record of Learning; the name "Half-Learning Study" originates from the Book of Documents, Charge to Yue. I remember that during my visit over thirty years ago, a small room in the Half-Learning Study was marked as Mao Zedong's former residence during his stay at Yuelu Academy. Now, there is no such sign, and both the north and south study rooms seem to have become exhibition halls and souvenir shops.
Passing the Lecture Hall, one enters the rear courtyard.
In the courtyard are two square ponds, with a Spring-Drawing Pavilion on the north side and a Imitation Orchid Pavilion on the south side.
At the end of the courtyard stands the Yuelu Academy Library Building. The library building is the main venue for the book storage function, one of the three major functions of ancient Chinese academies (lecturing, book storage, and sacrifice). Since its founding, Yuelu Academy had a library behind the Lecture Hall. After Emperor Zhenzong granted books, it was renamed the Imperial Book Tower. During the Yuan and Ming dynasties, it was also called the Zunjing Pavilion, with a shifted location. In the 26th year of the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty (1687), Governor Ding Sikong requested the Thirteen Classics, the Twenty-One Histories, and other books from the court and built the Imperial Book Tower on the current site. By the mid-Qing Dynasty, the Imperial Book Tower of Yuelu Academy had developed into a large-scale private library in China, with a collection of 14,130 volumes. Currently, the Imperial Book Tower of Yuelu Academy seems to serve as the Ancient Books Library of Hunan University, reportedly holding over 50,000 volumes, including major reference works such as the Complete Library of the Four Treasuries, the Continued Complete Library of the Four Treasuries, the Four Branches of Literature, the Four Essential Collections, and the Complete Collection of Ancient and Modern Books.
The Imperial Book Tower and its surrounding corridors contain numerous stone inscriptions. Among them, the "Zhu Xi Poetry Stele" bears the poem "Two Poems Respectfully Presented to Zhang Shi as a Farewell Gift" by Zhu Xi, engraved during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty by Governor Wu Dacheng. In September of the third year of the Qiandao era of the Southern Song Dynasty (1167), after the Zhu-Zhang Lecture Debate, Zhu Xi continued to lecture and discuss at the Yuelu and Chengnan academies under Zhang Shi's leadership. He traveled by boat between the city and Yuelu, passing through Orange Isle, and stayed for two months. To this day, the Zhu Zhang Ferry remains on Orange Isle. In November, the two traveled together to Mount Heng in Nanyue for seven days, climbing in the snow from the back mountain via Maji—Baidian—Fangguang Temple—Xiling—Nantianmen—Zhurong Peak—Shangfeng Temple—Fuyan Temple and Nantai Temple, covering 200 li. They exchanged poems and compiled them into the "Collection of Poems from Nanyue Exchanges." Finally, they parted in Zhuzhou, with Zhang Shi presenting a poem to Zhu Xi, who responded with this poem. I had seen the Two Sages Shrine dedicated to Zhu Xi and Zhang Shi at Fangguang Temple on Mount Heng. Seeing Zhu Xi's poetry stele at Yuelu Academy, I could vividly imagine the scene of these two great Southern Song Confucians, cherishing each other and traveling together through the mountains and rivers over 850 years ago.
To the north of the central axis main building complex of Yuelu Academy, there are dedicated shrine courtyards for Zhou Dunyi, the Cheng brothers (Cheng Hao and Cheng Yi), Zhu Xi, Zhang Shi, Wang Chuanshan, Luo Dian, and others. These seem to have been rebuilt in recent years and were not present during my previous visit.
During my visit over thirty years ago, my companion and I mainly toured the main buildings of the academy and did not stop elsewhere. This time, I unexpectedly discovered the Confucian Temple (Wen Miao) within the northern side courtyard off the central axis of Yuelu Academy, which was a pleasant surprise.
The Confucian Temple of Yuelu Academy in Changsha is said to be the largest and highest-specification academy Confucian temple in the country. It was first built in the ninth year of the Kaibao era of the Northern Song Dynasty (976 AD), based on the late Tang monk school, by expanding on the existing site. In the second year of the Xianping era of the Song Dynasty (999 AD), the Hall of Rites and Saints was expanded, including statues of the Master and the Ten Philosophers and paintings of the Seventy-two Sages, for the purpose of worshipping Confucius, thus establishing the temple's function. From then on, Yuelu Academy formed the regulation of "lecturing, book storage, and sacrifice."
The two stone archways of the Yuelu Academy Confucian Temple should be original. One archway bears the inscription "Dao Guan Gu Jin" (The Way Surpasses Past and Present) on the front and "Xian Guan" (Gate of Virtue) on the back.
The other archway bears "De Pei Tian Di" (Virtue Matches Heaven and Earth) on the front and "Sheng Yu" (Realm of the Sage) on the back.
Passing through the "Dao Guan Gu Jin" stone archway, one enters the Confucian Temple.
Inside the courtyard stands a statue of Confucius teaching, erected in recent years.
Proceeding further, one reaches the red-walled, yellow-tiled Confucian Temple complex. Most of the original buildings of the Yuelu Academy Confucian Temple were destroyed in 1937 by Japanese bombers during the invasion, and some were later rebuilt. After the 1980s, the Dacheng Hall, Dacheng Gate, and the two side corridors were gradually restored, and the Chongsheng Shrine and Minglun Hall were rebuilt. In August 2013, a heavy rainstorm on Yuelu Mountain caused a 200-year-old ancient maple tree to fall, damaging the Dacheng Hall and tragically killing a female tourist. The current Dacheng Hall was rebuilt after that rainstorm. I have little interest in recently built imitation ancient buildings, so I passed quickly through the Dacheng Gate and Dacheng Hall without stopping.
Inside the Dacheng Hall hangs a plaque with the characters "Wanshi Shibiao" (Model for Ten Thousand Generations). The hall houses a wooden statue of Confucius. On the sides are the imperial inscriptions from the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty: "Eulogy and Preface for the Sage Teacher Confucius" with the preface on the right and the eulogy on the left. On the side walls of the Dacheng Hall hang portraits of the four sages who accompany Confucius in the temple: Yan Hui, Kong Ji, Mencius, and Zeng Shen.
The last hall in the Confucian Temple is the Chongsheng Shrine. It is a classroom of Hunan University, off-limits to tourists. A few students dressed in ancient costumes were there. Other areas in Yuelu Academy where tourists are not allowed include Quzi Shrine and a couple of other places that are used for classes by Hunan University faculty and students. This is the reason why Yuelu Academy's scholarly tradition has continued unbroken for a thousand years.
To the south of the central axis of Yuelu Academy lies a garden area with winding paths leading to secluded spots, flowing streams, and lush bamboo and trees. If not for the constant stream of tourists, it would be an ideal place for study and contemplation.
The Lushan Temple Stele Pavilion on the south side of the garden was something I saw for the first time during this visit. The pavilion was first built in the fifth year of the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty (1469) by Prefect Qian Shu and was rebuilt in 1962.
The "Lushan Temple Stele" inside the pavilion is an influential stele among existing Chinese stele inscriptions. It was composed, written, and carved by the famous calligrapher Li Yong in the 18th year of the Kaiyuan era of the Tang Dynasty (730 AD). Because the text, calligraphy, and carving are all excellent, it is known as the "Three Perfections Stele."
Following the covered corridor of Yuelu Academy uphill, exiting the west gate of the academy leads to the Qingfeng Gorge of Yuelu Mountain.
Deep in the gorge stands the Aiwan Pavilion. This pavilion, together with the Zuiweng Pavilion in Chuzhou, Anhui (built 1046), the Huxin Pavilion in Hangzhou, Zhejiang (built 1552), and the Taoran Pavilion in Beijing (built 1695), is known as one of the four famous pavilions in China.
The Aiwan Pavilion was first built in the 57th year of the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty (1792) by Luo Dian, the head of Yuelu Academy. Originally named the Red Leaf Pavilion, it was renamed after the Tang poet Du Mu's line "I stop the carriage to enjoy the maple grove at dusk; the frosty leaves are redder than the February flowers." It underwent several major repairs, gradually forming its current layout.
The Aiwan Pavilion was destroyed during the War of Resistance, rebuilt in 1952, and underwent major repairs in 1987. The pavilion is simple and elegant, with red-lacquered wooden pillars inside and four outer pillars made of whole square granite, retaining much of the Qing Dynasty architectural style. The roof has double eaves with four slopes, a pointed top, and four upturned corners covered with green glazed cylindrical tiles.
The Aiwan Pavilion faces east, with mountains on three sides; the east side is open, surrounded by lush greenery and flowing springs. In front of the pavilion is a pond with peach and willow trees in rows. Around the pavilion are maple trees. In late autumn, the entire mountain is covered with red leaves, creating a natural scenic beauty.
The Aiwan Pavilion attracts visitors not only for its scenery but also because of Mao Zedong. During his youth, while studying at the First Normal School, Mao often gathered with his companions like Cai Hesen at the Aiwan Pavilion to discuss current affairs and seek truth. The plaque on the front of the pavilion, with the characters "Aiwan Ting" in Mao Zedong's vermilion gold calligraphy, is a highlight. It was made from a handwritten copy requested by Li Da, then president of Hunan University, from Chairman Mao.
Inside the pavilion, there is a horizontal plaque engraved with Mao Zedong's handwritten poem "Changsha·Spring in a Pleasure Garden," with vigorous and powerful strokes that add brilliance to the ancient pavilion.
Perhaps because it was Sunday, the area in front of the Aiwan Pavilion was crowded with tourists. It was difficult for me to find a moment with fewer people to take a picture. The same was true at Yuelu Academy, showing how famous these places are.
Leaving the Aiwan Pavilion, I paid another forty yuan to re-enter Yuelu Academy, lingered again, and then left. There are actually many other historical sites on Yuelu Mountain, but due to time constraints, I could not visit them all and had to leave them for another day.
Exiting Hunan University, I noticed an ancient-style building by the roadside called the "Zibei Pavilion."
This pavilion is located about 200 meters east of the academy. It was built in the 27th year of the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty (1688) by Zhao Ning, the prefect of Changsha, by the road leading to Yuelu Academy to provide a resting place for travelers. It originally served as the entrance to Yuelu Academy, with a stone path leading directly to the main gate. The existing building was constructed in the 11th year of the Xianfeng era of the Qing Dynasty (1861). The three characters "Zibei Ting" were inscribed by Che Wanyu, a head of Yuelu Academy during the Qing Dynasty. Inside the pavilion are embedded stone inscriptions including the "Record of Zibei Pavilion." Unfortunately, the pavilion door was locked, so I could not enter. The name "Zibei" comes from the Doctrine of the Mean: "The way of the gentleman is like a long journey; it must begin with the near. It is like climbing a height; it must begin with the low." It means that moral cultivation and academic learning must start from the near and low, progressing step by step with persistence. As times have changed, the meaning of the word "zibei" (self-humility) today is no longer the same as in the context of the Doctrine of the Mean.
As dusk approached, I took the subway from Hunan University station to Orange Isle in the misty rain. I remember over thirty years ago, I reached Orange Isle by car via the Xiang River Orange Isle Bridge, getting off at the middle of the bridge to enter the isle. Now, I simply got off at the Orange Isle subway station, which was very convenient.
Orange Isle is located in the center of the Xiang River in Yuelu District, Changsha. It is the largest among many alluvial sandbars in the lower reaches of the Xiang River and is known as the "First Isle of China." Stretching from south to north across the river, it faces Yuelu Mountain to the west and Changsha city to the east, surrounded by water for over ten li. At its narrowest, it is about 40 meters wide; at its widest, about 140 meters, forming a long island. One of the ancient Eight Views of Xiaoxiang, "River Sky and Evening Snow," is located at Orange Isle. In the Song Dynasty, Xiao Dajing's poem praised Orange Isle as "Little Penglai." As early as the Tang Dynasty, the head of Orange Isle was famous for producing southern oranges, which were sold as far as Jianghan. The late Tang poet Li Xun wrote: "Reed flowers in autumn, Xiaoxiang night, the fine scenery of Orange Isle is like a screen painting. Amidst green mist, under the bright moon, a small boat just finished fishing. Water is home, awnings for shelter, eating fish broth and rice. Full cups of wine, full shelves of books, not caring about fame and fortune." This poem depicts the river scenery of Orange Isle 1,200 years ago. Du Fu also wrote: "The peach blossom spring people easily change their system; the fields on Orange Isle are still fertile."
Exiting the subway station and walking south, I saw that the Xiang River is divided by Orange Isle. To the west, across the river, are the layered green peaks of Yuelu Mountain and the university town at its foot. To the east, the tall buildings of Changsha city rise, forming the unique landscape of "mountains on one side, city on the other" along the Xiang River.
Orange Isle stretches long from north to south, with greenery, inner lakes, orange groves, flower gardens, and many dining spots. On holidays, strolling on Orange Isle is a good leisure activity.
Braving the intermittent drizzle, I walked southward toward the head of Orange Isle. Along the way, I passed the former Changsha Customs House, the Standard Oil Company building, and the Tang Shengzhi Mansion, witness to the historical vicissitudes after Changsha opened as a treaty port. I had not noticed these during my previous visit; in fact, they were unknown to me at that time.
Orange Isle is steeped in the rich historical heritage of Huxiang culture. There is the Zhu Zhang Ferry, where Zhu Xi and Zhang Shi crossed the river between Yuelu Academy and Chengnan Academy for lectures, illustrating the flourishing scholarly atmosphere of Huxiang students over 800 years ago. It is said that Zeng Guofan once trained the Hunan Navy on Orange Isle during the late Qing Dynasty. Of course, mention must be made of Mao Zedong, who stood at the head of Orange Isle in 1925, gazing at the northward flowing Xiang River and asking, "Upon this boundless land, who decides the rise and fall?" Today, the stone stele inscribed with Mao's poem "Changsha·Spring in a Pleasure Garden" has become a scenic spot on Orange Isle. Because of Mao Zedong, the head of Orange Isle has become an indispensable attraction in Changsha tourism.
During his youth, while studying at Hunan First Normal School, Mao often went to the head of the isle with classmates to swim and brave the waves, comment on the country, and inspire through writing. After the founding of New China, he returned to Hunan several times and visited Orange Isle seven times. He even swam in the Xiang River near Orange Isle on many occasions.
Arriving at the head of Orange Isle, there stands a colossal sculpture of young Mao Zedong, 32 meters high, 83 meters long, and 41 meters wide. This has become a must-stop for tourists visiting Orange Isle in recent years.
I continued to the very tip of Orange Isle, watching the Xiang River flow northward under the vast misty rain.
Looking back at both banks of the Xiang River, the west bank near Yuelu Mountain was relatively quiet, while the east bank of Changsha's main urban area was brightly lit with bustling city life.
As night fell, I left the head of Orange Isle and headed back.
On the way, I stopped at a Chayan Yuese tea shop on Orange Isle to drink a cup of Zhixiao tea recommended by the staff, to rest and refresh myself. With the lingering fragrance of the milk tea, I concluded my revisit to Changsha.
