A Tour of Baili Gorge in Yesanpo

Yesanpo is a place well worth visiting. I had often heard friends mention it, but never had the chance to go. On September 15, 2017, my wife and I drove here.

Yesanpo is located at the junction of the Taihang Mountains and Yanshan Mountains in Laishui County, Hebei. It consists of attractions such as Baili Gorge, Juma River, Baicaopan, and Yugu Cave, among which Baili Gorge is the highlight of the Yesanpo scenic area. By the time we arrived at Baili Gorge, it was already late, so we found a farmhouse nearby to stay in. The farmhouse was a two-story building with a private courtyard. We parked the car in the yard, and the host arranged a room for us on the second floor. After settling in, we borrowed a bucket from the host to wash the car. During the highway drive, the windshield, bumper, and front had become splattered with moths and insects, making the front look like a painted cat.

The next morning, after breakfast, we headed to Baili Gorge. Outside the scenic area entrance stood a statue of a shepherd boy sitting sideways on a cow, playing a bamboo flute leisurely. The cow, full-bellied, swished its tail contentedly, depicting a scene of peaceful and prosperous life. Standing beside the statue, visitors felt as if they were in the fields, instantly immersed in rural life.

Baili Gorge consists of three valleys: Haitang Valley, Shixuan Gorge, and Xiezi Gully. Xiezi Gully has not been developed yet and is overgrown with stinging nettles, a special plant that causes itching upon contact. Haitang Valley and Shixuan Gorge have their entrances adjacent to Niujiao Peak. At the far ends of the two valleys, a mountain peak separates them, with plank roads and cable cars built to connect them, forming a circular tour route. Visitors can enter through one valley and exit through the other.

At the entrance of Baili Gorge stands Hancheng Castle, a landmark building of the scenic area, which served as an outdoor filming location for the TV series "Romance of the Three Kingdoms." On the square in front of Hancheng Castle stands a statue of a rooster crowing at dawn. Since 2017 was the Year of the Rooster, visitors born in the Year of the Rooster could enter for free.

My wife was born in the Year of the Rooster, so she got a free ticket. Inside the scenic area, there were electric sightseeing cars. Although riding the car saved energy, it also meant missing many beautiful views. We walked slowly along Huayong Road, which was narrow, winding, quiet, and serene. Soon we arrived at Niujiao Peak. To the right of Niujiao Peak was Haitang Valley, and to the left was Shixuan Gorge. We entered the valley through Haitang Valley.

The valley was deep and shaded from the sun. Although the outside temperature was as high as 32°C, the valley maintained a temperature around 20°C, very cool. We had been sweaty, but here we felt a slight chill. Haitang Valley was filled with crabapple flowers, which were in full bloom this season, filling the entire valley with fragrance. On both sides of the valley stood steep cliffs, covered with damp moss. A narrow path ran between the cliffs. After climbing a section of steps and passing through a tunnel, we arrived at a circular cave formed by an arched cliff, called Laohuzui. This was the coolest spot in the valley, with a temperature around 17°C. The first sensation upon arriving was a biting chill. We lingered briefly before moving on.

Then we began climbing steps. Dense small trees lined both sides, their shade covering the path, cool and quiet. Yellow wildflowers bloomed on the slopes, light butterflies fluttered among the flowers, and birds chirped, mingling with the sound of a babbling brook, bringing a joyful serenity. Suddenly, the sound of water came from afar—it was a waterfall. Water cascaded from a great height, creating lotus-like splashes in the pool below. The waterfall hung like a transparent curtain on the cliff face, with mist spreading in the wind, occasionally landing on our hair and cheeks.

Continuing, we entered another section of the valley where the cliffs pressed together into a narrow line. The path grew narrower—at its widest about ten meters, at its narrowest just one meter. Looking up, a sliver of light showed through, the sky like a thin thread. The light, after several refractions and reflections, fell on exposed rocks, nurturing the plants growing there.

The scenery in Haitang Valley was concentrated, including not only Laohuzui, Shuangxin Waterfall, and Yitianxian, but also attractions like Jinxian Xuanzhen and Huquan. After walking about three kilometers through the valley, we arrived at the foot of a mountain peak. There were plank roads and a cable car leading to the summit. The steep plank roads seemed daunting for climbing, so we chose to take the cable car to the top.

The cable car slowly ascended. Sitting inside, we gazed into the distance—surrounding mountains rolled endlessly, villages dotted the landscape below, and lush trees covered the slopes—a splendid rural scene. After a few minutes, the cable car arrived at Tianting. We got off there and looked down from a height, feeling a sense of "seeing all smaller mountains at a glance." We rested briefly at Tianting, took some photos, then took the descending cable car into Shixuan Gorge.

Shixuan Gorge features over a dozen uniquely shaped arched cliffs, one after another. The valley width is generally within ten meters, and the narrowest spot can barely accommodate one person. The temperature is cool, the light dim, requiring auxiliary lighting for photos. Without looking up, it's hard to see the sky. We walked slowly along the cliff path, taking in sights such as Chenniu Lake Waterfall, Lingzhi Mountain Water Curtain Cave, Guai Peak, and Xiongshi Chushi. After about three kilometers, we returned to Niujiao Peak.

Entering through Haitang Valley and exiting via Shixuan Gorge, we wound through crevices between peaks—sometimes dark and eerie, sometimes suddenly open, sometimes steep and thrilling, sometimes flat and easy. The "Yitianxian" in Haitang Valley and the "narrow sky" in Shixuan Gorge truly lived up to their names. The unique scenery and pleasant landscapes of Baili Gorge attract many visitors and have also been the backdrop for many films and TV shows. The tour ended, and with deep affection, we slowly walked out from the exit.