【Global Experience】2014 Summer - Eastern USA Tour

The ten-day tour of the Eastern United States has ended. Where do I start? The visa interview earlier this year went surprisingly smoothly. My wife has been to the US many times, mostly for work. This time she wanted to take a vacation and have fun, and I was also very eager to visit this most powerful country on Earth. A ten-day vacation is just enough for a superficial glance at the Eastern US, which represents American history. Two months ago we started planning the trip, flying into Chicago and out of New York, with three domestic flights connecting Buffalo, Washington D.C., and Boston. We booked all flights with United Airlines. Let's start with the airline. United has daily direct flights from Shanghai to the US, and Chicago is its hub. It seemed reasonable to entrust all tickets to them. My wife needed to go a few days earlier for business. But her flight was canceled due to a mechanical issue, and she received no notification. After countless phone calls, she had to buy a new ticket and depart. Fortunately, she left smoothly without affecting her work. Four days later, I was also supposed to fly to Chicago to meet her. Sitting on the plane, waiting for takeoff, three hours later we were forced to disembark. No mechanical issue—this time the crew had exceeded their working hours according to US law, and we had to fly the next day.

The frustrated passengers were speechless, but the airline remained calm. They arranged hotel, meals, and transportation perfectly. The night passed without incident. The next day we continued flying—changed flight number and finally took off smoothly. The 13-hour flight was not short. There were many young people on summer study tours. I slept, ate, and watched the scenery outside the window. Then Chicago arrived. Since we arrived a day late, we had to fly to Buffalo that evening, leaving only 8 hours in Chicago. No time to visit the United Center to see the former home of the Bulls. What a pity—a small regret for another visit. Chicago O'Hare International Airport is enormous: 4 terminals, 6 runways, the only dual-hub airport in the US, home to United and American Airlines. Even if you were transferring immediately to another US city, you had to exit customs and collect your luggage first. The immigration line was incredibly long, with many Mexicans. Fortunately, we set foot on American soil smoothly. To save time, I gave up the subway directions my wife had given me and took a taxi directly to the city center. The black driver was very talkative, but my English was too poor to communicate. Still, the hearts of people around the world can connect. Following my wife's instructions, the 30-kilometer ride was not far. I dropped off the luggage and started exploring Chicago.

Chicago's greatest attraction is its architecture. After the great fire of 1871, countless architectural masters left their mark here. The city is full of skyscrapers, including the current tallest building in the US—the Willis Tower (Sears Tower). I walked along the Chicago River, saw the strange corn-shaped buildings, looked up at the Trump Tower, and strolled all the way to the lake entrance. Maybe due to jet lag, my legs felt weak, but the surrounding scenery was beautiful, the river clear, with many sightseeing boats passing by, mainly showcasing the riverside buildings. Near the Ferris wheel by the river, I had my first American meal and learned about the tipping culture. After eating, I continued walking. The lakefront had a beach, with many people swimming and exercising in the lake. Countless yachts were moored offshore. I visited a chocolate shop, an art museum, and saw Chicago's oldest water tower. Next to it was the bustling Macy's department store. After a brief glimpse of Chicago, I had to leave for Buffalo that evening.

The road to the airport was a bit congested, probably due to rush hour. A message arrived on my phone: flight delayed. I waited at the gate, and then another nightmare came: the flight was canceled, and there were no seats to Buffalo that day. The United Airlines staff were polite, but they could only handle what was in their power; if there were no seats, it was useless to argue. All complaints and dissatisfaction had to be submitted online. The counter only dealt with solvable issues. The American passengers seemed calm, waiting quietly in line and taking what they could get. We had to change to a flight the following afternoon. With the hotel voucher from the airline, we stayed at the airport again, free meals and lodging. How frustrating! Two cancellations in three days, three in seven days, all with United. Was it really that unlucky? Checking into the hotel, my wife and I planned to change our itinerary. Many of our hotel reservations needed to be canceled or modified. Financial loss was secondary; the uncertainty of our schedule was the real pain. In Buffalo, we decided to rent a car to save time waiting for buses. Hertz rental was efficient; I booked online and we got a good night's rest.

The next day, the flight finally took off smoothly. We arrived in Buffalo around 3 PM. Our checked luggage from yesterday was waiting for us at the airport. This shows that the US, a major aviation country, handles such situations well. As soon as we left the airport, our mood improved greatly. There were no tall buildings, just fresh air. Across from the airport was a row of car rental agencies. With a Chinese driver's license, as long as the staff could understand it, we could rent a car. There was no need for notarization—Americans don't understand Chinese notarization anyway. However, laws vary by state; some might not allow it, but here in New York State, it was fine. Buffalo, also called the Water City, is mainly visited for Niagara Falls. We picked up the car smoothly. Driving for the first time in the US, with my wife's GPS navigation, we arrived at Niagara Falls after about 30 kilometers. On the road approaching the scenic area, we saw mist rising; later we realized it was created by the falls. Parking cost $10, and the falls were open until 8 PM. No entrance fee—we started exploring directly. Niagara Falls is the world's largest跨国 waterfall. The world's second largest transnational waterfall is Detian Falls between China and Vietnam, which my wife and I visited a few years ago. Here, the falls are on the Niagara River between Ontario, Canada, and New York State, USA. Both sides call their town Niagara. We walked into the scenic area, passed the visitor center, and soon reached an observation area to see a side view of the falls. It was spectacular; all our frustrations vanished.

The best way to experience the falls is on the Maid of the Mist boat tour, getting up close to the falls. Tickets were $17 each. While waiting, we were given raincoats. To the right was the Rainbow Bridge connecting the US and Canada. The Niagara River flows beneath it. If you have a visa, you can drive across. I heard the US side doesn't stop you, but Canada might make you turn back if you don't have a visa. The Canadian town across the river was full of hotels and casinos, clearly built for tourists. Boats departed about every 20 minutes. The deck was packed with tourists. The falls actually consist of three parts: Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls. The American and Bridal Veil Falls are entirely on the US side, while the most spectacular Horseshoe Falls is transnational. From the US shore, you only see the profile of Niagara Falls; from Canada, you get a panoramic view. That's why many say viewing from Canada is better—similar to both sides of Hukou Waterfall on the Yellow River. Our boat went directly under Horseshoe Falls. Mist filled the air—truly magnificent.

After the ride, we returned to shore and continued walking to see the falls from different angles. There was a monument to Tesla, because the world's first power station was built here. The scenic area wasn't large, so walking and enjoying it was pleasant. Summer sunsets were late, so we returned to the parking lot for dinner. With our car, it was easy to drive back to our motel in town. There were many supermarkets nearby, which my wife loved.

The next day we woke up naturally and leisurely visited a nearby Target store. The town was quiet and pleasant. Shopping at the supermarket was an unexpected bonus—delicious American cherries. Then we sat by the Niagara River for a while before driving back to the airport to fly to Washington D.C. It happened to be the final day of the World Cup. As we waited for our flight, a text message said it would be delayed by over an hour. Well, we were used to it. Waiting patiently, the plane finally arrived—a propeller plane, which looked nice. Boarding began. As we stepped onto the stairs, the ground crew called us back. My heart tightened again. What now? Back in the terminal, through the window we saw the plane's propeller engine smoking. Fire trucks and police cars arrived. Staff were taking pictures—something unexpected had happened. Who knows what the passengers who just got off were thinking. The flight was canceled again. We were used to it. Three consecutive cancellations—all six segments of our flights with United were canceled. We didn't know the odds. That day, there were still no seats to Washington. Helpless, we adjusted our plans again. After calculations, we decided to give up the subsequent Boston itinerary (Harvard and MIT would have to wait). We needed to ensure enough time for Washington and New York. To leave Buffalo that day, we changed our destination from Washington to New York. Fortunately, United had an evening flight to New York—business class, another propeller plane. After the driving experience in Buffalo, and checking the price of high-speed rail in New York, we felt that railways in the US were probably the most expensive and seemed high-end. We started to like renting a car and driving—the US is truly a country on wheels. Our plan: arrive at Newark Airport, pick up a rental car, stay near the airport, then drive to Washington early next day. With a plan, our mood improved slightly. Using the airline's meal voucher, we ate dinner at the airport, watched Germany win the World Cup, and finally our plane landed safely at Newark Airport. After completing all our domestic US flights, experiencing two cancellations and one abandonment, we finally regained control of our time.

The motel near the airport we booked last-minute felt like something out of a gangster movie. The environment wasn't ideal, but we only needed it for one night.

The next day we got up on time and started our journey. The highways were full of cars, all driving fast, but orderly. To get to Washington as quickly as possible, we chose toll roads. To our surprise, car rental wasn't expensive, but the tolls were considerable. Following the GPS, we merged with the traffic, passed through tunnels and bridges, crossed several states, and arrived in Washington D.C. just before noon. Our first stop was the mysterious building of the Department of Defense. We didn't have an appointment to tour, so we just wanted to see the exterior. I heard that foreigners need to go through their embassy to book a tour, which is quite troublesome. The mysterious Pentagon—the world's largest office building—had tight security. No photos allowed nearby. I snapped a few stealthily, drove around once, and considered it a visit. Not far from the Pentagon was Arlington National Cemetery. We came to the west bank of the Potomac River in D.C. to see it. It has appeared in many movies and epitomizes American patriotism. Originally, it was the estate of George Washington, later owned by his great-granddaughter Anna and her husband Robert E. Lee. During the Civil War, General Lee sided with the South, so his estate was confiscated by the federal government. The Union army suffered heavy casualties, and Congress approved converting the confiscated Arlington estate into a national cemetery. By the end of the war, 16,000 soldiers were buried in the central area. We walked through the cemetery, saw President Kennedy's grave, and from a hilltop looked at the nearby Pentagon. Lee's history is a humanistic theme here. We also saw the Lee-Custis Mansion. Nearby, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is the highlight. Guards paced back and forth, exuding dignity. Walking toward the exit, we passed countless tombstones—of ordinary soldiers and high-ranking generals, some intricately carved, but mostly plain. Soldiers remain the core of those resting at Arlington.

We crossed the Potomac River and arrived at the Lincoln Memorial. From here to the Capitol is the essence of Washington. Parking in Washington was a problem. Street parking had time and hour restrictions, and after 4 PM was rush hour. We timed our visit to see the Lincoln Memorial and Washington Monument. The tall monument was surprisingly hollow inside; if you book in advance, you can go up for a city view. Before 4 PM, we drove around a bit more, saw the cityscape, and circled the White House twice but couldn't park, so we returned to the hotel. The hotel was clean and comfortable, with an old-fashioned manually operated elevator. A heavy rainstorm cooled things down a bit. After dropping our luggage and catching our breath, we checked the time—street parking was allowed again. We headed back to the White House. Peeking through the iron fence, we saw the president's residence. You can book tours there, but it seems easier for American citizens; I don't know how foreigners can book. The protest tent that has been there for decades was still there. Many tourists came to take photos. After seeing the White House, we ate some American fast food on the street. Before dark, we returned to the hotel. Vietnamese pho nearby was our dinner—a comforting Asian meal.

The next morning in Washington was indeed congested. It took nearly an hour to drive slowly. With the previous day's experience, parking was relatively smooth. First stop: the Capitol—the most famous landmark on the National Mall. Its dome must be one of the most photographed images. Opposite the Capitol was the Supreme Court. We took a quick look, walked across the plaza, and entered the Capitol. Enthusiastic staff offered to show us around. We learned that even without a reservation, we could go up to the dome to see the highlights of the Capitol. We were delighted. After waiting in line for about 10 minutes, we watched a short film about the founding of the US. It was in Hollywood style, well-produced. It didn't seem to promote individual worship; instead, it emphasized how this immigrant nation brought different people together while protecting everyone's interests—definitely patriotic. After the film, a guide led us through the main architecture, explaining history from the center of the Rotunda to the dome. The hour-long tour was very informative. The chambers of the Senate and House of Representatives were also open for visits if you had time.

After finishing the government buildings, the remaining task was museums. We found a parking spot on Constitution Avenue. First, the National Museum of American History. Honestly, apart from the first US flag, the museum was mostly about industry and technology—a country with no ancient history, only a few hundred years of industrial civilization. We just skimmed through trains, cars, and modern kitchens. Next door was the National Museum of Natural History, which is more famous and was the setting for the museum-themed "Night at the Museum" movie. The beautiful building housed the famous African elephant specimen at the entrance. Many children were playing and learning there. The ocean hall and mammal hall had lifelike specimens and top-notch environments. We spent over an hour quickly going from the animal exhibits on the first floor to the gem exhibits on the second. This museum was much richer than the history museum. Parking was limited to 2 hours, so we rushed out to move the car. We parked near the National Air and Space Museum and ate hot dogs. Originally planning to skip it due to time, but since we were there, we decided to take a quick look. It turned out to be the most worthwhile museum of the day. Inside, we saw several re-entry capsules and airplanes hanging from the ceiling—all real. Unassuming moon rocks were available for touching. It seemed Americans aren't great at history, but they excel at modern technology. From the Wright brothers' plane to the nose of a Boeing 747, from early rockets to the International Space Station, and the massive Hubble telescope—it was awe-inspiring. Flags of the US and Soviet Union appeared together on some exhibits, likely from past collaborations. From ordinary aircraft to space probes, from WWI fighters to modern aircraft carriers, it had everything. The US is definitely the world leader in this field. Behind the exhibition hall was an American fast-food joint. We ate something, rested, and then headed to New York.

Before getting on the highway, we took a final look at the Jefferson Memorial by the river. Finally, I should mention that most museums here belong to the Smithsonian Institution. In the early 19th century, British scientist James Smithson, who had never visited the US, donated a large sum (equivalent to about $10 million today) to the US government to establish a museum complex dedicated to spreading human knowledge. After nearly 200 years, with ongoing government funding and some private donations, it has grown into a multidisciplinary research museum group with 19 museums, a zoo, and 9 independent research centers. Most are in Washington D.C., with a few in New York, Virginia, and even Panama. Due to its public nature, most Smithsonian museums are free to the public, including many in Washington.

Our Washington trip, though pressured by the airline cancellations, was eventually completed perfectly. We saw almost everything we wanted. We drove back to New York on the highway. Near Newark Airport, a heavy rainstorm hit, but everything went smoothly. The airport train (NJ Transit) cost $15 per person and took us directly to Manhattan. Emerging from the underground station, we were greeted by towering buildings, neon lights, and a bustling crowd—New York's vibrancy hit us. We switched to the subway to reach our hotel. If Shanghai's subway scores an 8, New York's subway gets a 4—it was extremely dilapidated and user-unfriendly. Our hotel was near Chinatown. Chinese shopkeepers keep their restaurants open late. A midnight Chinese dinner in Chinatown was incredibly comforting.

The last few days were entirely in New York, America's largest city. In the morning, from our room window, we could see the Brooklyn Bridge. Back in New York, I felt more relaxed. The first day was reserved for the Metropolitan Museum of Art. We took the subway directly to Central Park, took a casual walk through the park, then crossed it to the museum entrance at Fifth Avenue and 82nd Street. It is one of the world's four major art museums, alongside the British Museum, the Louvre, and the Hermitage, housing 3 million works. The museum's lobby was grand and beautiful. The audio guide for $7 was absolutely worth it. According to the guide, this is a place where you could spend a lifetime. Though an exaggeration, one day is truly insufficient to explore it. There were familiar works, but many more unfamiliar. Crossing the lobby, we went to the second floor. A quick glance at the hallway's Chinese ceramics, then we headed straight to Gallery 206, the Chinese art section of Asian art. The "Medicine Buddha Painting" from Guangsheng Temple in Shanxi was a treasure I already knew about. I had visited that temple, learned about the mural's past, and seen pictures, but seeing it in person was still breathtaking. I sat in front of it for a long time. The giant mural showed traces of cutting and restoration. Although the preservation here is world-class and respect for art is commendable, the cutting and transportation inevitably damaged the original. Of course, the remaining portion in China is even more damaged. Opposite the mural was the "Empress Dowager and Emperor Paying Homage to Buddha" relief from Longmen Grottoes—a masterpiece of stone carving, but again with obvious restoration gaps. A bit regrettable. Whether these art pieces were stolen or sold, history cannot be reversed; now they allow us to appreciate them, which is their value. The room also had many Buddhist statues from Xiangtangshan and Yungang, worth seeing. We also looked at jade and bronzes. The displays here focused on artistry rather than historical narrative. Suzhou gardens and Chinese ceramics also had their places.

Indian religions, Japanese culture—Asian art was vast. Leaving the Asian section, we headed to Western oil paintings. Actually, Western paintings are a major focus here, but due to cultural differences, we just looked at the highlights with the audio guide, skimming the surface. We continued through contemporary installation art, various stone sculptures, tribal totem wood carvings—everything was impressive. After circling the second floor, we were hungry. The downstairs restaurant provided lunch; good taste but a bit pricey. Back on the first floor, the Egyptian collection was a highlight. Entire tombs had been relocated here, with numerous mummies and astonishing funerary objects. These exhibits sparked my wife's desire to visit Egypt. Following the map, we could only glance at each gallery: beautiful glassware, impressive armor, various European religious artworks—not well-understood but beautiful. Finally, security announced closing time, and we had to leave.

Along Fifth Avenue, we took a bus, shopped a bit, saw the enormous Rockefeller Plaza, and visited the busy Grand Central Terminal. New York's skyscrapers are suffocatingly close together. Almost all streets are one-way, unlike Chicago's planned layout. Here it's dense, making you feel like walking in a canyon. As dusk fell, we headed to our last stop of the day: the Empire State Building, New York's tallest skyscraper. The 86th-floor observatory cost $29—not cheap, but it appears in many movies and offers the best view of New York. To our surprise, we had to queue for over 2 hours to go up. Outside, black scalpers were selling tickets. Although genuine, they added a few dollars for profit. Since they weren't officially recognized, we were cautious and queued up properly to buy tickets at the official booth. There was also a $50 VIP ticket for fast access, which was a bit expensive. Finally, in the dark, we reached the 86th-floor platform. The night view of New York was stunning. Shanghai's Lujiazui is impressive, but compared to this, it falls short. We looked in all directions, taking in New York. Queuing was exhausting; we returned to the hotel late and rested well.

Early the next day, we went to see the Statue of Liberty. By bus to the pier, $18 tickets still required a long queue. It seemed that paid attractions in the US always had long lines. A one-hour wait was maddening. Finally, we boarded the boat. Beyond the bridge was the Atlantic Ocean; the breeze was pleasant. The Statue of Liberty is not a historical monument but a man-made artwork, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was a gift from France to the US in 1876 for its centennial. The statue stands on Liberty Island in New York Harbor. French sculptor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi took ten years to complete it. The statue wears ancient Greek-style robes, and her crown has seven spikes symbolizing the seven continents and seven seas. In the late 19th century, there was no air travel; the only way to cross oceans was by ship. New York Harbor was the largest port on the US coast. Many immigrants spent months at sea; when they saw the statue, they knew they had arrived at the land of freedom in their hearts. We landed on Liberty Island, which is small. Since climbing to the crown requires over 600 steps, my wife and I decided not to book that. We just walked around the statue. With audio guide, we listened to stories. The statue is quite beautiful; its green color is actually patina. After a lap, I think it's worth your time to visit at least once. Time was limited, so we skipped the Immigration Museum on Ellis Island and took the ferry back to Manhattan. The ferry offers excellent views of the Statue of Liberty and Lower Manhattan. Near the pier, a short walk took us to the Financial District. In an unremarkable street median stood the famous Charging Bull. Its various body parts were polished shiny by tourists' touches. After taking photos, we continued exploring high-end Wall Street.

Strolling casually, we saw the beautiful Trinity Church; Wall Street was across the street. Wall Street was once part of a Dutch colony where they built a wall. Later, the wall was removed, and it became Wall Street. The street is very narrow. After a few blocks, we unexpectedly saw the side entrance of the New York Stock Exchange. The main entrance had tight security, and it was not open for tours. This place has many legends; major investment banks and powerful financial firms have a presence here. I heard that top executives take helicopters to work to avoid New York traffic; a helipad was nearby. Opposite the exchange was Federal Hall. Surprisingly, this was the site of the first US Congress. On April 30, 1789, George Washington took the oath of office as president here. Federal Hall is free to visit. Outside stands a statue of Washington. This area has many attractions. After passing Federal Hall, we continued walking. Not far away was a building that looked like it was made of giant stones, with thick iron bars on the windows. This was the Federal Reserve Bank—the Fed. We walked around it. The back door was small, and the main entrance was also low-key. Tours can be booked by appointment. This is where US dollars are born! After leaving the Fed, a short walk brought us to the 9/11 Memorial. On the original foundations, two enormous reflecting pools had been built, with the names of all victims carved on the edges. We came here to pay respects. The atmosphere was somber; the two pools evoked a sense of oppression.

Leaving the 9/11 Memorial, we soon reached the Brooklyn Bridge. The bridge spans the East River, connecting Brooklyn and Manhattan. It was New York's first bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world at the time, and the first to be built with steel. When completed, it was considered the eighth wonder of the world and one of the seven great engineering marvels of the Industrial Revolution. Walking on the bridge, pedestrian and bike paths were above the roadway. Looking around, we saw cars below, the Statue of Liberty visible in the distance from Liberty Island, and the parallel Manhattan Bridge also very beautiful. Leaving the bridge, we walked to Chinatown for dinner and returned to the hotel early, as tomorrow was the last day of our trip.

Early in the morning, we took the M15 bus to the United Nations Headquarters. New York's bus system was strange, with multiple payment methods: some buses required tapping a card upon boarding, others required buying a ticket at a machine at the stop. The driver didn't check, but there were occasional inspections, and a fine of $120 if caught without a ticket. We hadn't booked a tour, so we could only see the UN from outside. The entrance was full of journalists and broadcast vans, likely related to the shooting down of Malaysia Airlines Flight MH17 the previous day. We had at least been here. For lunch, my wife and I planned to have steak. Keens Steakhouse had great reviews. Most American lunch spots open around noon. We walked a short distance to the restaurant. The ceiling was covered with clay pipes, and the walls were adorned with many vintage Lincoln photos. The steak was delicious, and the vegetables were even better. During these days in the US, we had tasted American cuisine. After a satisfying meal, we bought some delicious cherries from a street vendor. Nearby were Times Square and Broadway. Times Square was a sea of screens; a large screen at a corner displayed NASDAQ. These familiar scenes I had seen countless times on TV. We soaked in the lively atmosphere. The afternoon was left for shopping. US prices are quite advantageous. We bought some daily necessities and souvenirs—a perfect end to the trip.

The remaining balance on our MetroCard was used for a ride to New York University, the setting for "Sex and the City." We looked around the campus. After a full circle, my wife commented that it doesn't compare to the University of Chicago. Ha! Early the next morning, the taxi arrived on time. The driver said that in New York taxis, seat belts are optional, but private cars must use them. I'm not sure why; I doubted this Chinese driver's understanding of traffic laws. We safely arrived at Newark Airport. This time United didn't let us down. After a ten-plus-hour flight, we returned to Shanghai.

Travel is always joyful. The many uncertainties at the start caused us some losses, but fortunately, my wife and I worked together to make the latter part successful. Although we regret missing Harvard and MIT in Boston, the self-driving trip in Washington was very satisfying. There were gains and losses; change is constant, but happiness is the most important...