20 Years Ago, 20 Days in Central and Northern Europe

In September 1998, I had the opportunity to travel to Central and Northern Europe, spending 20 days in Germany, Austria, Netherlands, Sweden, and Norway. The novelty and excitement of stepping abroad, the sights and sounds, thoughts and reflections during the journey, have gradually faded with time. But recently, two things have "activated" my dormant memories, prompting me to write down this experience—a belated overseas study report, so to speak.

One is the "trade war." Since March 2018, as the trade war has intensified, many people have become pessimistic about the prospects of globalization. In fact, the trend of peace, cooperation, and openness is unstoppable. No matter how many difficulties and twists lie ahead, there is no need to worry excessively. Twenty years ago, how advanced and developed Western countries were, and how far behind we were. After years of hard work and catching up, we have taken our place among the world's leaders in economic aggregate, infrastructure, and certain areas of science, technology, and national defense, giving us the confidence and courage to face these challenges.

The second is the "tough battle." During our time in Europe, what we envied most was not their wealth, but the fact that despite economic development, the sky was still blue and clouds white. The saying "the moon abroad is rounder and brighter" turned out not to be a joke. We still have a long way to go to become a world-class country. Not just in ecological environment, but also in per capita resources, quality of life, development index, and other areas, there are many "shortcomings." Currently, the development level of China's large and medium-sized cities is roughly comparable to that of Central and Northern European countries 20 years ago. We must keep a clear head and strive to go further, taking the 40th anniversary of reform and opening up as an opportunity to persistently fuel our dreams.

[Day 1, Day 2] Departed from Beijing on Lufthansa flight LH721 to Frankfurt, Germany, then took a bus to Munich.

[Day 3] Visited Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace in Munich.

[Day 4] Took a bus from Munich, Germany to Salzburg, Austria, visiting Hohensalzburg Fortress, Salzburg City Hall Square, and Mozart's Birthplace.

[Day 5] Flew from Munich to Frankfurt on Lufthansa flight LH5017, visited Römerberg Square.

[Day 6] Took an ICE train from Frankfurt to Bonn, visited Bonn city center, the Rhine River, and Beethoven House Museum.

[Day 7] Took an ICE train from Bonn to Amsterdam, Netherlands, visited Amsterdam canals, toured GASSAN Diamond Factory, then returned to Bonn by ICE.

[Day 8] Took a bus from Bonn via Cologne to Bremen, visited Cologne Cathedral and a flea market.

[Day 9] Took a bus from Bremen to Hamburg, visited Hamburg City Hall Square and Hamburg Port, then took a bus from Hamburg to Kiel, and a ferry from Kiel to Gothenburg, Sweden.

[Day 10] Visited Gothenburg City Square and Cultural Square, then took a bus to Mjölby, toured Mjölby.

[Day 11] Took a bus from Mjölby to Vadstena, toured Vadstena, then returned to Mjölby.

[Day 12] Took a bus from Mjölby to Stockholm, visited Stockholm City Hall and the Royal Palace, then returned to Mjölby.

[Day 13] Took a bus from Mjölby to Oslo, Norway.

[Day 14] Visited Oslo City Hall Square, the National Opera House, Vigeland Sculpture Park, and the Munch Museum.

[Day 15] Took a ferry from Oslo to Bygdøy, visited the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, the Viking Ship Museum, the Fram Museum, and the Sonja Henie–Niels Onstad Art Centre.

[Day 16] Visited Oslo City Hall and toured Hadeland Glassverk.

[Day 17] Visited Holmenkollen Ski Jump, toured Lillehammer, and visited the Norwegian Olympic ski venue.

[Day 18] Rested in Sandvika to prepare for the return trip.

[Day 19, Day 20] Flew from Oslo to Frankfurt on Lufthansa flight LH3101, then from Frankfurt to Beijing on Lufthansa flight LH720.

Note: The photos in this travelogue were scanned from film, so they are not very clear. In 1998, digital cameras were not as common as they are today.

[Day 1, Day 2]

Itinerary: Beijing—Frankfurt, Germany (Lufthansa LH721), Frankfurt—Munich (bus)

The first leg of the trip was taking Lufthansa LH721 from Beijing direct to Frankfurt. At that time, only Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou had direct flights. Now it's much more convenient; cities like Shenzhen, Chongqing, Nanjing, Xi'an, Chengdu, Qingdao, and Shenyang all have direct flights to Frankfurt, as well as to Berlin, Munich, Hamburg, and other cities.

Departed Beijing time 21:20 (summer time), arrived Frankfurt local time 15:20, total flight time 10 hours (time difference 6 hours).

The aircraft cabin was spacious, with twin aisles. There were two meals on board: one dinner and one lunch. This was the menu on the plane at that time.

Over the years, I have taken nearly a hundred domestic flights for business and personal reasons, and I have never seen economy class offer menus. The level of service is evident from this detail. During these days abroad, there were many such details that made one feel warm and cared for.

The flight route was north from Beijing, over Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Russia, then west over Belarus, Poland, to Frankfurt, Germany.

Entering Europe, from 10,000 meters above, as long as there was no cloud cover, you could clearly see the farmland, villages, houses, roads, and lakes below—a sign of clean air and little pollution. Especially over the Baltic Sea, the sky was blue, the water azure, with red roofs and white walls, and green grass like a carpet. We couldn't help but exclaim loudly, causing the foreigners around us to look sideways (each thinking the other was making a fuss over nothing). Unfortunately, our equipment was limited and we couldn't capture the beautiful scenery.

Germany is a European aviation hub, and Frankfurt Airport is one of the three largest airports in Europe (the other two being London Heathrow and Paris Charles de Gaulle), and also the base of Germany's national airline, Lufthansa.

After landing, we took a bus to Munich. The driver was an elderly man with very white hair, probably in his 60s, who politely offered to help each of us with our luggage, but we were too embarrassed. The bus was very stable. Munich is 384 km from Frankfurt, and the trip took 5 hours including a rest break. German regulations require a 10-minute break every 2 hours. Along the way, apart from a card swipe toll when leaving the airport, there were no other toll booths. The highway's main lanes were asphalt, with concrete on both sides. The roadside was lined with lush trees and grass, and the occasional village was decorated with flowers, full of vitality. The smoke from tall chimneys was very white, indicating thorough combustion and treatment.

Along the way, we saw many posters. September 27 was the German federal election; these posters were candidates campaigning.

Germany has a strong automotive industry, with famous brands like Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Audi, Volkswagen, and Porsche. The household car ownership rate is also very high, which gave rise to a new industry—automobile clubs. The largest is the ADAC club. After joining this non-profit organization, you pay 60 German marks a year, and if you break down anywhere nationwide, one phone call brings rescue. This organization has grown rapidly, expanding into tourism, printing, and other industries.

In the evening, we checked into the Drei Löwen Hotel in Munich, located opposite the train station, a 15-minute walk to the city center.

The hotel facilities were comparable to a domestic quasi-three-star level, with small rooms. There were no slippers, toothbrushes, or other daily items common in China, but shower gel, shampoo, hangers, toilet paper, and a hairdryer were provided. Hot water was available 24 hours, and tap water was drinkable. At the front desk, there were many brochures introducing local attractions, mainly in German, some in English, but none in Chinese. When I looked it up online while writing this travelogue, the hotel still exists; if I were to stay again, I imagine the place would be full of simplified Chinese. The TV had about 30 channels, including local programs, NTV, EuroNews, CNN, as well as pay channels and adult channels. After 10 p.m., the "freedom" of capitalism was fully exposed on TV.

[Day 3]

Itinerary: Visit Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace in Munich

Neuschwanstein Castle is one of the palaces of King Ludwig II of Bavaria. The blue-roofed, white-walled castle stands tall and majestic, nestled in the Alps surrounded by green trees.

The scenic area is well-managed; tour buses cannot drive in. You can go up by horse-drawn carriage, using Hanoverian horses specially bred for pulling carriages—they are very strong. Alternatively, you can walk, which takes 20 minutes to the top.

It is said that this castle is the prototype for many modern fairy-tale castles, including Disney's, so it is also called the Snow White Castle.

Exterior wall of Neuschwanstein Castle

Photography is not allowed inside the castle. I bought a guidebook for 4 marks.

The castle was designed according to Ludwig II's dreams, taking 17 years to build. Inside and out, swans—his favorite motif—are everywhere, even the faucet in the washroom is shaped like a swan's neck.

The castle's magical beauty is awe-inspiring; the tragic story of its owner is heartbreaking. Ludwig II spent his childhood with his young aunt, later Queen Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi). Sisi married at 15, leaving an unforgettable impression on the prince. He never married, and later became immersed in Wagner's dramas, losing himself in a world of illusion and aestheticism, clinging to his longing for Sisi and his fantasy of the Swan Knight. In 1869, he began building Neuschwanstein, nearly emptying the treasury, which met with fierce opposition from ministers and the people, earning him the nickname "Mad King." In 1886, he moved into the still-unfinished castle, but was soon deposed and exiled, and was found dead in a lake a few days later. His death remains a mystery—whether suicide or murder. The tragic story of Ludwig II adds a touch of romantic melancholy to this magnificent castle.

Leaving the castle and looking into the distance, to the left is Alpsee Lake, and to the right is Swan Lake. Behind are the rolling Alps on the German-Austrian border and the beautiful Bavarian countryside.

Passing through Füssen, a town of over 10,000 people, 5 km from the Austrian border. Most of the family cars here are hatchbacks, many with small engines—environmental awareness is deeply rooted. I remember that at that time in China, the popular car was the Santana 2000, which launched in 1995 with a starting price of 160,000 RMB, while the average annual household income was only 30,000 RMB. Although most people couldn't afford a Santana, they still looked down on the two-door Xiali, not considering it a proper sedan. Deep down, Chinese people cared about face and appearances, and environmental protection was just lip service.

Passing through a green corridor, we arrived at Linderhof Palace. This was a hunting retreat for Ludwig II. Although built later than Neuschwanstein, it is the only building completed during the king's lifetime. At that time, Bavaria's annual income was a little over 7 million, yet he spent over 6 million on this palace—so capricious! The palace is modeled after Versailles, with a strong Rococo style. The interior is resplendent, but photography was not allowed. I remember the dining room was very peculiar, with a "magic table" that could be raised and lowered for self-service; it is said the reclusive king preferred to dine alone.

Gold-decorated human-shaped fountain

Returned to Munich in the evening, continued staying at Drei Löwen Hotel.

[Day 4]

Itinerary: Munich, Germany—Salzburg, Austria (by bus), visit Hohensalzburg Fortress, City Hall Square, Mozart's Birthplace

Departed Munich at 7:30 a.m. by bus for Salzburg, arrived 3 hours later. Since both are EU countries, there was no check at the border. Salzburg is located in western Austria, the capital of Salzburg state, with a population of about 130,000 (1997). It is the birthplace of musical genius Mozart and the filming location for "The Sound of Music." Numerous cultural and artistic events are held here every year, earning Salzburg the title "Stage of the World." In 1997, the old town of Salzburg was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Hohensalzburg Fortress sits atop the Mönchsberg, built in 1077. At that time, the Pope and the king were vying for the right to appoint bishops, and the pro-Pope Archbishop of Salzburg built this defensive structure on his territory. The fortress was built into the mountain, with high walls and deep courtyards, standing proudly throughout the long war-torn years, never once breached.

Hohensalzburg Fortress

The Salzach River divides Salzburg into the new town and old town.

Many street artists were performing. The restroom in the background was pay-per-use. Many public toilets here require payment, which took some getting used to. But with payment came management. Almost every toilet was odorless, clean and bright, with hot and cold water, toilet paper, and facilities for mothers with babies and people with disabilities—very comfortable and thoughtful. The gap—this is the gap. Twenty years later, we still haven't fully achieved this, hence the call for a "toilet revolution."

Mozart's Birthplace, Getreidegasse 9

Salzburg City Hall Square fountain

[Day 5]

Itinerary: Munich—Frankfurt (Lufthansa LH5017), visit Frankfurt city center, Römerberg Square

Departed Munich at 6:40 a.m. by plane for Frankfurt, arrived 5 minutes early at 7:35.

Munich Airport is in the suburbs. Since the flight was early, we took a taxi to the airport. Many taxis here are BMWs or Mercedes-Benz. Today we rode in a Mercedes, driving at 150 km/h, very smooth, even when braking hard, there was no lurching. From the hotel to the airport took 30 minutes. The car interior was fresh; smoking is prohibited in almost all public places in Germany. Breakfast was on the plane: a bread roll, a long thing (I don't know the name, but not bread), a drink, and a banana.

Frankfurt is the fifth largest city in Germany and the largest city in Hesse, an important center for industry, commerce, finance, and transportation in Europe. The metro opened in 1968 and has 9 lines. It is not Germany's largest city, only the fifth largest. Meanwhile, China's largest city, Beijing, had only 2 metro lines in 1998, and Shanghai, the second largest, had just one.

Frankfurt's Römerberg Square. In the center is the Fountain of Justice, with the goddess holding scales symbolizing justice. The surrounding Gothic buildings have gabled roofs.

Strolling along the streets. At that time, I felt that foreign countries had immense material abundance, with goods in dazzling array. I couldn't help but sigh, thinking how wonderful it would be if we could reach such prosperity. Looking back now, it's not that impressive. Poverty had limited my imagination; sitting in a well, you can only see a small patch of sky; only with broad experience can you gain broad knowledge.

It is said that the same product has the same price throughout Germany, no matter the region. Foreigners shopping in Germany can enjoy a tax refund of about 10%. Generally, purchases over DM50 get a DM5 refund, over DM100 get DM7, and over DM200 get about 9.8%.

These past few days, I've had a bit of a sore and inflamed corner of my mouth. Dry weather was one reason, but mainly it was the diet. Every day we ate and drank mostly cold or raw things, like bread, milk, meat slices, juice, beer. These Western meals looked beautiful, but our stomachs craved hot porridge or tea, even noodles would do.

In the evening, we checked into the Novotel Frankfurt, located on the banks of the Main River, with good conditions.

[Day 6]

Itinerary: Frankfurt—Bonn (by train), visit Bonn city center, Beethoven House Museum

Took an ICE train to Bonn in the morning. Departure time was 11:50, and we arrived at the station at 9:30. With time to spare, we strolled around and found many book and food stalls. Magazine covers mostly featured blondes striking provocative poses. I couldn't read German, but the pictures were universal. Adult magazines were DM2.3, and those with CDs were DM23. There were also technical books, mostly on computers; Windows 98 German version was already on sale.

The train departed. The ICE travels at 250 km/h—fast! Unbeknownst to us at the time, back home we were still riding green trains with an average speed of about 60 km/h. In April 1996, when the Shanghai-Nanjing line first launched the "Pioneer" express train with a top speed of 140 km/h, the media was thrilled.

Train ticket, second class

Bonn is one of Germany's oldest cities, with a history of 2,000 years. From 1949 to 1990, it was the capital of West Germany (the Federal Republic of Germany) and remains an important political center. "Bonn" originally meant "barracks"; in the early 1st century AD, a Roman legion set up camp here. Bonn is also a famous cultural city. The University of Bonn is one of the oldest higher education institutions in Europe, where Marx and Heine once studied. The musician Beethoven was born in Bonn in 1770 and lived there for 22 years.

Beethoven House Museum, at Bonngasse 20, is a three-story building.

When visiting Bonn, two other attractions worth seeing are the Beethoven Monument and the Beethoven Head sculpture. Unfortunately, I didn't know about them at the time and didn't go. I only walked along the Rhine and bought a set of 5 Beethoven symphony CDs.

In the evening, we ate at "Ocean City," a floating restaurant on the Rhine, a Chinese restaurant run by a wealthy Chinese businessman.

Looking at the menu: a seafood soup was DM9.5; fried chicken, DM7.5; beef, 7.5; wonton noodles, 7.5; hot and sour soup, 6; set meal (including pork, beef, chicken, prawns, halibut, vegetables), 29.5. In 1998, 1 German mark was about 5 RMB. A newly graduated college student in a medium-sized Chinese city earned about 1,600 RMB per month. This gives an idea of the living standards between the two countries.

Checked into the Continental Hotel in Bonn, with average facilities. It faced the Bonn train station, so it was a bit noisy. The room was small, and the TV had only 9 channels.

[Day 7]

Itinerary: Bonn, Germany—Amsterdam, Netherlands—Bonn (by ICE train), visit Amsterdam canals, tour GASSAN Diamond Factory

Departed Bonn at 7:40 a.m. by train for Amsterdam, passing through Cologne's Hohenzollern Bridge.

The Hohenzollern Bridge is a bridge crossing the Rhine, consisting of three railway bridges and a pedestrian walkway. The bridge itself is not particularly special; it didn't have all these locks before. It became famous later because of the German singer Höhner's song "Schenk mir dein Herz" (Give Me Your Heart). The lyrics are based on a love story associated with the Hohenzollern Bridge. The song later became a household favorite in Germany and a staple at carnival celebrations.

Arrived in Amsterdam at 11:00. Lunch was at "Sea Palace," a floating Chinese restaurant shaped like a traditional Chinese boat.

Amsterdam is a city of canals with an interwoven network of waterways. Most tourists take a boat tour to appreciate the city's charm, and we were no exception.

Dam Square war memorial, built in 1956 to commemorate Dutch soldiers who died in World War II.

About an hour later, we visited the GASSAN Diamond Factory. This is a century-old Jewish-owned business in the center of Amsterdam, known for its excellent reputation, receiving over 400,000 customers from around the world each year. It has grown into a modern enterprise integrating diamond processing, export, and wholesale.

Amsterdam's diamond cutting technology is renowned in the industry, synonymous with perfect cuts and high quality. Here I learned that diamond production involves three steps: cleaving, shaping, and polishing (at that time, up to 57 facets could be polished—33 on top and 24 below, known as the brilliant cut). About 50% of the rough stone is typically discarded. The criteria for evaluating diamonds are the 4Cs: Carat (weight), Color, Clarity, and Cut. 1 carat (Ca) = 0.2 grams (g) = 100 points (p). Sea blue and blue are the best colors. Clarity grades include VVS (very, very small inclusions), VS, P1 (small flaw), P2 (medium flaw), P3 (large flaw), etc. Diamond clarity above VS is very rare; inclusions are part of the diamond and a unique mark given by nature.

I bought a 0.2-carat white gold ring with a diamond for $464 (including $113 for the white gold band), with a 14.5% tax refund (exchange rates that day: 1 DM = 1.12 NLG, 1 USD = 1.8867 NLG). Prices for other diamond rings (including $113 for the white gold band): 0.15 Ca (blue, clarity P2) USD 378; 0.25 Ca (yellow, clarity VS) USD 596; 0.42 Ca (blue, clarity SI) USD 2354; 0.53 Ca (white, clarity P2) USD 1728. Of course, bigger and purer diamonds are better, but I didn't have enough money.

In the evening, we took the 7:04 p.m. train back to Bonn. A few minutes before departure, a Chinese passenger in our compartment had his bag snatched, containing $1,200. It seemed to be a group of black people. It was chaotic and I didn't see clearly. Foreign countries are not paradise; security is not necessarily better. When traveling, valuable items must be kept close to your body.

[Day 8]

Itinerary: Bonn—Cologne—Bremen (by bus), visit Cologne Cathedral, flea market

Departed at 9:30 a.m. by bus, arrived in Cologne at 11:00, visited Cologne Cathedral. This magnificent Gothic building is Germany's largest cathedral and the symbol of Cologne; it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996. Due to time constraints, we only took some photos outside and didn't go inside—it must be solemn and majestic.

Later, we checked out the nearby flea market—nothing interesting, just some old books, ceramics, fake jewelry, and fake antiques, clearly aimed at tourists and foreigners. After lunch at a Chinese restaurant called "Beijing Restaurant," we continued our journey. The bus was equipped with a GPS system, displaying direction, distance, speed, etc. on a screen, so the dispatcher could always know the vehicle's location.

After passing the 50th parallel north, we felt a noticeable drop in temperature; wearing just a single pair of trousers was a bit cold, and it was only mid-September. In the Northern Hemisphere, the higher the latitude, the lower the temperature. Latitude starts from the equator and increases both north and south.

After arriving in Bremen, we first toured the city center, then visited the red-light district, which was small in area. Nearby there was also an area with sex shops, also small, with lit signs, drawn curtains, and glass display windows, with women sitting or standing. It was said that some, upon seeing Asian faces, would proactively say, "Can issue a receipt."

Checked into Hotel Hanseat in Bremen, near the city hall and cathedral, with good facilities.

[Day 9]

Itinerary: Bremen—Hamburg, visit Hamburg City Hall Square and Hamburg Port, Hamburg—Kiel (by bus), Kiel—Gothenburg, Sweden (by ferry)

Departed Bremen at 9:00 a.m., arrived Hamburg at 10:20.

Hamburg Port is an inland port on the Elbe River, one of the three largest ports in the world. We stayed there for 30 minutes and took some photos.

Lunch was at a Chinese restaurant called "Xi Lin Men" (Happy Gate); the food was mediocre. I learned that in Europe, most customers at Chinese restaurants are still Chinese. For Chinese cuisine to truly enter the mainstream local society, the biggest challenges are constraints on ingredients, techniques, and service.

During the trip, I noticed that the exterior walls of German houses rarely use tiles or mosaics like in China; they are mostly painted in white, beige, or other light colors or pastels—stylish and tasteful. There are no cluttered advertisements or slogans on walls, and little graffiti. Utility poles and bus stop signs are free of small ads. Indoors, the flooring is mostly tile, wood, or carpet, giving a warm and comfortable feeling. Later in Sweden and Norway, I found the same.

After lunch, we headed to Kiel, a port city in northern Germany on the Kiel Fjord of the Baltic Sea, 11 km from the mouth of the fjord, facing Denmark across the sea.

In the evening, we took a ferry from Kiel to Gothenburg, Sweden. This marked the end of the first phase of the journey. In 9 days, we had visited 9 cities from south to north: 7 in Germany—Munich, Frankfurt, Bonn, Cologne, Bremen, Hamburg, Kiel; one in Austria—Salzburg; one in the Netherlands—Amsterdam.

We took a ferry operated by Stena Line, the largest shipping company in Europe, passing through the Kiel Canal, an important waterway connecting the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, and arrived in Gothenburg, Sweden at 9:00 a.m. the next day.

[Day 10]

Itinerary: Gothenburg—Mjölby (by bus), visit Gothenburg City Square, Cultural Square, and Mjölby scenery

Gothenburg is Sweden's second-largest city, with three main squares: City Hall Square, Cultural Square, and King's Gate Square. We visited the first two, absorbing the historical, cultural, and artistic atmosphere.

Gothenburg City Hall Square features a statue of Gustavus Adolphus II (1594–1632), King of Sweden and military reformer. He brought "professionalism," "regularization," and "modernization" to the military, waging wars with Denmark, Russia, and Poland from 1611 to 1629 and winning, gaining supremacy in the Baltic. He died in the Battle of Lützen in 1632 at age 38.

Gothenburg Cultural Square has a statue of Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea. The robust figure grips a large fish in his right hand and holds a shell in his left. Water trickling from the fish's mouth and the shell reminds people that Gothenburg is a maritime city. Did you notice that many rooms around the square have no windows? In the 1930s, Sweden was very conservative; residents on the street didn't want to see a naked statue every day, so they kept their curtains drawn, and over time, some houses facing the street didn't install windows at all.

After lunch at "Yuan Ming" restaurant in Gothenburg, we took a bus and arrived in Mjölby three hours later.

This is a small town in southern Sweden, with a population of 25,000. It is peaceful, exquisite, with pastoral scenery. Every household lives in a villa surrounded by flowers, with 1-2 cars and 1-2 bicycles. Car license plates have 3 letters followed by 3 digits. The average annual income is $30,000, with a 30% tax rate. Welfare is excellent—free education and medical care—almost like socialism.

Checked into Stads Hotellet Mjölby, with good conditions. We stayed here for the next two nights.

[Day 11]

Itinerary: Mjölby—Vadstena—return to Mjölby (by bus), tour Vadstena

These days were tiring, so we slept in until noon. Lunch was at "Wen Hua" restaurant, then we went to another town, Vadstena. The two places are not far apart—15 minutes by bus. Vadstena is smaller than Mjölby, with a population of no more than 10,000, but more famous. It is where King Gustav Vasa of Sweden (grandfather of the aforementioned Gustavus Adolphus) married his third wife, Katarina Stenbock. It also has a medieval castle built by Gustav Vasa to defend against foreign attacks, as well as the Bridgettine Monastery and Church. The scenery is beautiful and unique, and more and more tourists come here now.

There are many small towns in Europe worth visiting, like Mjölby yesterday and Vadstena today, with their historic castles, vast green spaces, crystal-clear rivers, and slow, leisurely pace of life.

Lake Vättern, Sweden's second-largest lake, 129 km long, up to 26 km wide, 118 m deep, covering an area of 1,912 square kilometers.

[Day 12]

Itinerary: Mjölby—Stockholm—return to Mjölby (by bus), visit Stockholm City Hall, the Royal Palace

Departed Mjölby at 7:00 a.m. by bus, passing through the university town of Linköping, the railway hub of Norrköping, and the port city of Södertälje, arriving in Stockholm at 10:00.

Stockholm is made up of 14 islands and a peninsula, connected by 54 bridges, earning it the nickname "Venice of the North." The city proper has a population of 1.7 million, of which 1 million live in suburban satellite towns.

Ericsson, the mobile communications company, is headquartered in Stockholm. Its building is circular, looking like a giant balloon floating in the air from a distance. At that time, Ericsson was incredibly powerful—the world's largest mobile communication equipment supplier. But times change; the once glorious tech giant kept suffering losses, cutting jobs, and shrinking. Some analysts say the main reason was complacency—product updates were not fast enough to keep up with the market. In fact, as another fallen giant Nokia said, "We didn't do anything wrong, but somehow, we lost!" In the Internet age, relying solely on past glory without sustained innovation leads to elimination by the ruthless market.

Stockholm City Hall stands on the shores of Lake Mälaren, a magnificent red brick tower built with 8 million red bricks. It took 12 years to complete, officially opening in 1923. Every year on December 10, the anniversary of Alfred Nobel's death, the Nobel Prize (except for the Peace Prize, which is awarded in Oslo, Norway) is awarded here.

The "Blue Hall" of Stockholm City Hall is where the Nobel Prize banquet is held after the award ceremony.

The Blue Hall is actually not blue; it is red like the exterior walls of the City Hall. The architect Ragnar Östberg originally planned to plaster the brick walls and paint them blue, hence the name "Blue Hall." But he was so impressed by the color, texture, and rustic beauty of the red bricks that he decided to abandon the original plan and keep the natural red brick color, though the name "Blue Hall" remained.

Above the Blue Hall is the Golden Hall, whose walls are covered with mosaic murals made of 18 million pieces of gold leaf and colored glass, each 1 cm square. Under the lights, it looks resplendent and magnificent. I can't remember if I actually went up to visit; logically, having come this far, I should have, but I can't find any photos or records. Let me include some online pictures.

To the right of the City Hall is a 106-meter spire with three gilded crowns, representing the unity and cooperation of the three Scandinavian countries: Sweden, Denmark, and Norway.

Lake Mälaren, Sweden's third-largest lake. It is 120 km long, 64 m deep, covering 1,140 square kilometers.

The Royal Palace is located in the center of Stockholm, spacious and square, with a large courtyard in the middle and many buildings around it, totaling 608 rooms. To give you an idea: that's 4 more rooms than Buckingham Palace in the UK. Historically, Sweden once dominated Northern Europe and was wealthy, so the Royal Palace is the most magnificent and grand among the Nordic countries.

The guards at the palace gate stood still and accepted constant photo-taking from tourists.

Inside the Palace Museum, we saw many beautiful murals and reliefs. Afterwards, I sent a postcard to my family from the Stockholm post office, costing 8 kronor.

After the visit, we returned to Mjölby. Why return? The small town had cheaper accommodation and food; the capital was expensive. In 1998, the average monthly salary in Sweden was about 25,000 SEK (roughly 1:1 with RMB), while in China it was around 2,000 RMB. Their standard of living was far higher.

[Day 13]

Itinerary: Mjölby, Sweden—Oslo, Norway (by bus)

Departed Mjölby in the morning by bus, heading to the final destination of this trip: Norway. Lunch was in the western Swedish town of Karlstad, with a population of about 80,000. It is where the famous chemist and inventor Alfred Nobel lived in the later part of his life in Sweden. The warm sun felt comfortable, and everything was peaceful. At 2:00 p.m., we reached the Sweden-Norway border. Norway is not a member of the EU. If you want a tax refund on goods purchased in EU countries, you must do it in Sweden. The procedure is simple: show the tax refund check and passport, and they give you the cash on the spot. During these days, I noticed that the same product priced in dollars was more expensive than in local currency, so it's better to exchange into local currency. That day, 1 USD = 7.975 SEK (September 18, 1998). There were exchange points (forex) at shopping malls, train stations, airports, etc., with a fee of 20 SEK per exchange. If you spent over 200 SEK at the same store on the same day, you could get a tax refund of about 10%.

The EU (European Union) evolved from the European Economic Community (EEC) founded in 1957. The original members were six: Germany, France, Italy, the Netherlands, Belgium, and Luxembourg. As of September 1998, the EU had 15 member states, including Germany, the Netherlands, Austria, and Sweden, which we passed through. That's why we had no border checks when going from Germany to Austria and the Netherlands. Currently, the EU has 28 member states, but two European countries have always refused to join: Norway and Switzerland.

Why? There are many analyses online. Here's a summary. Norway: They are well-off and don't want to share with poorer EU countries. Also, their history of being invaded makes them hate the word "union." Switzerland: It is the only "permanently neutral" country recognized by international law. Swiss people value this label too much; joining the EU would compromise neutrality. However, as the opening of "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" says, "The empire, long divided, must unite; long united, must divide." On June 23, 2016, the UK voted in a referendum to leave the EU, with the official Brexit date set for midnight on March 29, 2019. Getting off the boat is harder than getting on; media reports say the UK will have to pay the EU 60 billion euros as a "divorce bill."

Can you tell which countries these flags belong to? From left to right: Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Iceland, Finland. Why are they so similar? They share similar languages, cultures, and histories.

A bit about the five Nordic countries. In the 10th century, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway were three independent kingdoms. From the 12th century, Finland began to integrate into Sweden, forming the Kingdom of Sweden; Iceland and Greenland belonged to Norway. In the 14th century, Denmark, Norway (with Iceland), and Sweden (with Finland) formed the Kalmar Union under a single monarch, with Denmark soon dominating. However, in the early 16th century, Sweden reestablished an independent kingdom, while Norway remained under Danish control. In 1814, Denmark was forced to cede Norway to the King of Sweden; Iceland and Greenland remained with Denmark. After the Russo-Swedish War of 1809, Finland was separated from Sweden and became an autonomous grand duchy under Russia. In 1905, after persistent struggle by Norwegians, Sweden agreed to dissolve the union, and Norway became truly independent. During World War I and the Russian Revolution, Finland became an independent country, establishing a republic in 1919. In 1944, Iceland became independent from Denmark. A bit messy? Let me sort it out: Initially, the big boss was Denmark, then Sweden. The first to break free was Norway, then Finland, and finally Iceland.

Simply put, Denmark looks down on Sweden, Sweden looks down on Norway, and all three look down on Finland. Iceland says, "I'm not playing with you guys!" There are many jokes about Finns in the Nordic region. For example: How many Finns does it take to change a light bulb? Three—one holds the bulb in the socket, and the other two lift him and rotate him clockwise on the spot. Thirty years east, thirty years west; the former big boss Denmark is now the smallest in land area.

In the evening, we checked into the Radisson SAS Park Hotel Oslo, which was upscale with advanced facilities and attentive service. I was pleasantly surprised to find that mailing postcards to China from the hotel front desk was free—such treatment and opportunity!

[Day 14]

Itinerary: Visit Oslo City Hall Square, the National Opera House, Vigeland Sculpture Park, Munch Museum.

Norway is one of the five Nordic countries, located in the western part of the Scandinavian Peninsula, with a long, winding coastline and numerous offshore islands, earning it the names "Land of a Thousand Islands" and "Fjord Country." Its recorded history dates back to 1050 AD. The period from 700 to 1050 was the Viking Age, Norway's heyday when the Vikings were quite formidable. From 1050 to 1350 was the dark medieval period, marked by ignorance, barbarism, and religious persecution. From 1350 to 1814, Norway was in a union with Denmark, effectively becoming a province of Denmark. From 1814 to 1905, it was in a union with Sweden, becoming a Swedish dependency. So in the eyes of Norwegians, there was a period of humiliation in history, and they have a strong sense of national pride and independence—similar to China.

In the 1970s, after the discovery of oil in the North Sea, Norway's economy accelerated, gradually becoming a modern country. Since 2001, it has been ranked 13 times by the UN as the best country to live in. From 2009 to 2018, it continuously ranked first on the UN Human Development Index.

Today, we spent the whole day sightseeing in Oslo.

Oslo City Hall consists of a group of concave red buildings (the same exterior color as Stockholm City Hall). Its two main towers are called the "Twin Red Brick Towers." Construction began in 1900, and after continuous decoration and refinement, it was officially completed in 1950, the 900th anniversary of Oslo's founding. The City Hall comprehensively displays Norway's history, culture, and the work and life of its people.

Oslo City Hall is another Nobel Prize award venue besides Stockholm City Hall. Every year on December 10, the Peace Prize ceremony is held in the main hall on the ground floor. Today we first visited the City Hall Square; the inside of the City Hall will be visited the day after tomorrow.

Norwegian National Opera House

Then we visited the Vigeland Sculpture Park on the outskirts of the city. The park covers 50 hectares and is divided into four sections: the Bridge of Life, the Fountain of Life, the Monolith, and the Circle of Life, depicting the journey of life from birth to death. Gustav Vigeland (1875–1948) was a famous sculptor, considered one of Norway's four great artists, along with playwright Ibsen, painter Munch, and composer Grieg. In 1910, at the age of 40, he proposed to the Oslo city government to build a sculpture park: "Give me a piece of green land, and I will give the world a surprise." The city government agreed to provide land at the end of Kirkeveien Avenue and even built a studio specially for him. From 1906 to 1943, Vigeland spent over 30 years creating 192 sculptures and 650 reliefs, both in stone and bronze, all lifelike.

Have you noticed that during these days in Europe, whether in cities or small towns, the prominent attractions are usually castles, city halls, churches, etc. So some people jokingly say that European tourism is "palace, castle, church, city hall." Actually, there is another major feature: many sculptures—both of emperors, generals, and cultural figures, and of ordinary people, animals, and birds; in stone and bronze; in city squares and parks, as well as in streets and alleys—rich in content and diverse in form, creating a unique artistic landscape.

We then went to the Munch Museum. Edvard Munch (1863–1944) was a Norwegian Impressionist painter and a pioneer of Expressionist painting. His works are strongly subjective with a melancholic and oppressive mood. His main works include "The Scream," "The Dance of Life," and "Evening on Karl Johan Street." It is said that his family had a history of mental illness, and he expressed his unique understanding of life, women, and life and death through his paintings.

"The Death of Marat": A person stands between a bed and a table; in the shadow behind, a person lies dead on the bed.

"The Scream": A classic depiction of human anxiety and despair. The central figure, an androgynous, twisted character, covers their ears and opens their mouth wide, showing extreme agony and fear. In the background, two figures walk on a bridge, with the Oslo fjord in the distance. The artist uses strong color contrasts and flowing lines, creating a sense of movement and tension. The red sky and distorted figures symbolize inner fear and external pressure.

"Ashes": A couple dating in the forest; the man is hunched in despair, the woman widens her eyes in hopelessness. The title "Ashes" suggests that the passion between them has burned out.

Munch self-portrait and biography timeline.

Checked into Rica Hotel Oslofjord, located in Sandvika, 15 km west of Oslo, with good conditions. We stayed here for five consecutive nights until leaving Norway.

[Day 15]

Itinerary: Oslo—Bygdøy (by ferry), visit the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, the Viking Ship Museum, the Fram Museum, and the Sonja Henie–Niels Onstad Art Centre.

Bygdøy is an island of museums, with several museums focusing on Oslo's Viking maritime history, such as the Viking Ship Museum and the Fram Museum, as well as a large open-air folk museum.

First, we visited the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History. It is an open-air museum showcasing Norwegian folk customs.

The most striking was the wooden stave church (Stavkirke), entirely built of wood planks, reflecting traditional Norwegian architectural style.

Next, we visited the Viking Ship Museum. Norway has a long maritime history, and Oslo has four famous maritime museums, of which this is one. The museum's arched hall resembles a giant tunnel, displaying Viking ships from the 8th to 10th centuries that once roamed Nordic seas.

The oldest Viking ship dates back to 800 AD. It is broad, with narrow, upward-curving ends and a tall mast in the middle. The Norwegian Vikings used these wooden sailing ships to cross the Atlantic, occupying islands in the North Atlantic, discovering Greenland and the North American continent. To learn about the Vikings, there's an American TV series "Vikings" that tells about their life, trade, exploration, and raids—worth watching if interested.

Norwegian Viking and Viking ship souvenirs

Afterwards, we visited the Fram Museum. The Fram was a sailing ship specially designed for polar exploration. It made two expeditions to the Arctic and one to the Antarctic, earning the reputation as the strongest wooden sailing ship. The hull is made of three layers: the outermost layer is greenheart hardwood, with two inner layers of oak, and asphalt and sawdust were filled between the layers. It was launched in 1892. From 1893 to 1896, Nansen used it for Arctic exploration; from 1898 to 1902, Sverdrup sailed it to the Canadian Arctic archipelago; from 1910 to 1912, Amundsen used it for Antarctic exploration. From the Arctic to the Antarctic, the Fram withstood all kinds of tests and returned successfully, truly deserving the title of "the world's strongest wooden sailing ship."

Bygdøy not only has rich cultural attractions but also beautiful natural scenery, including forests and beaches.

Sunshine, sand, waves—though no cactus—I wish time would slow down, that everything would stay as it is; I wish time would stop, and nothing would change anymore...

The Sonja Henie–Niels Onstad Art Centre, located on the outskirts of Oslo, was co-founded by Sonja Henie and her husband Niels Onstad. Sonja Henie (1912–1969) was a Norwegian figure skater, winning three Olympic gold medals (1928, 1932, 1936), ten World Championships (1927-1936), and six European Championships (1931-1936)—records that remain unbroken. After her competitive career, she went to the United States and became a film actress, one of the top three Hollywood stars at the time. On July 17, 1939, she was on the cover of Time magazine.

The art centre displays Sonja's trophies and personal items, as well as works by Picasso, Miró, and other famous artists, along with Norwegian artists.

[Day 16]

Itinerary: Visit Oslo City Hall, tour Hadeland Glassverk

In the morning, we strolled around downtown Oslo. It was cold, and things were expensive, so we didn't buy anything. Lunch was at the Grand Hotel Rica, where the Nobel Peace Prize banquet is held every year; the laureates greet the audience from the third floor balcony.

After lunch, we went to the City Hall. We had visited the City Hall square two days earlier; today we toured the interior.

As mentioned earlier, Oslo City Hall is the venue for the annual Nobel Peace Prize award. This is the award hall, with floors paved in Norwegian marble in various colors—white, black, yellow. The murals on the walls depict the pioneering spirit during the country's founding, along with people's work and life—colorful and vivid.

Then we visited Hadeland Glassverk, located by the beautiful Lake Randsfjorden, an hour's drive from Oslo. The factory was founded in 1762, producing glassware especially crystalware that is crystal clear, once the favorite luxury of royalty and nobility. Facing competition from cheap glass products, it has now transformed into a tourist attraction combining nature, industry, history, and culture—the largest glass museum in Scandinavia.

The prices were relatively high; anything remotely presentable cost at least 200–300 NOK, those with nice colors were 700–800 or more, and many were 4,000–5,000 NOK.

[Day 17]

Itinerary: Visit Holmenkollen Ski Jump, tour Lillehammer, visit the Norwegian Olympic ski venue.

In the morning, we visited the Holmenkollen Ski Jump. This jump is very conspicuous, visible from afar, standing on Holmenkollen Hill at 371 m above sea level. It is 84 m high and 126 m long, the highest ski jump in the world. Holmenkollen is located about 13 km northeast of Oslo and is a famous ski resort in Norway. For centuries, countless ski competitions have been held here. Since 1892, on the first Saturday of March every year, the International Ski Jumping competition takes place here, making it the second biggest event in Norway after National Day.

Then we went to Lillehammer in south-central Norway, 140 km from Oslo. With a population of 25,000 (1997), it is a fairly large town in sparsely populated Norway, and hosted the 1994 Winter Olympics.

At the Olympic venue, we experienced the bobsled. Even now thinking about it, my teeth chatter. Four people sit in one of those sealed cars below, wearing helmets, with a driver in front. The car slides down a track over 1,000 meters long at a speed of 100 km/h. The whole ride lasted just one minute and seven seconds, but it felt incredibly long—very thrilling. It started smoothly enough, but as potential energy turned into kinetic energy, the speed increased, and the centrifugal force grew stronger. My body gradually lost control, I couldn't balance, my helmet kept hitting my head, everything became blurry, and I wanted it to end as soon as possible. It is said that this is a winter sport requiring strong physical fitness; it is not suitable for pregnant women, people with heart disease, or those with back or neck problems. The ticket price was 125 NOK per person (about 125 RMB).

In the afternoon, we visited the Olympic Museum. The ticket number was very auspicious, ending in two sixes.

We watched a winter football game. The players wore skates and used a stick with a mop-like head to hit a small, brightly colored ball. This sport was just emerging at the time, different from ice hockey or field hockey, but with similarities. The translator mentioned the name of the sport, but I didn't remember it.

"Go, ROA team!" The team logo was very distinctive.

[Day 18]

Rested at the hotel in Sandvika, preparing for the return trip.

During this trip, we visited 9 cities in 9 days across Germany, Austria, and the Netherlands. In Sweden, 5 days and 4 towns: Gothenburg, Mjölby, Vadstena, Stockholm. In Norway, 6 days and 4 towns: Oslo, Bygdøy, Lillehammer, Sandvika. We used various modes of transportation: planes, buses, intercity trains, ferries, and taxis. We interacted with locals and service staff in hotels, Chinese restaurants, Western restaurants, fast food joints, shopping malls, and tourist attractions. I deeply felt the high level of development, high environmental quality, and high civility. People spoke softly; I never saw any arguments or cursing in public. There were many shops, but none of the loud hawking, shouting, distributing flyers, or blaring loudspeakers common in China. Both cities and countryside were very clean; in over ten days, my leather shoes remained shiny without polishing, and I hardly saw any peels, paper scraps, or garbage bags on the streets, let alone piles of trash. Everyone obeyed traffic rules, strictly following traffic lights. Motor vehicles yielding to pedestrians was a habit; unless a pedestrian signaled for the car to go first, the driver would thank them and pass. Public security was also good; I didn't see any security bars on windows, rarely saw military uniforms, and police were not often seen, let alone city management officers.

Whether in cities or rural areas, the service awareness was strong, the service standards high, and great importance was placed on tradition, history, culture, science, education, art, freedom, democracy, and dignity. It must be admitted that Central and Northern Europe, in terms of infrastructure, technology, living standards, environmental awareness, and civilization, were at least 20 years ahead of us overall. We must stay clear-headed and not be blindly optimistic. If we smile at every compliment and jump at every criticism, that is actually a sign of insecurity.

[Day 19, Day 20]

Itinerary: Oslo—Frankfurt (Lufthansa LH3101), Frankfurt—Beijing (Lufthansa LH720)

Farewell, Germany, land of poets and philosophers; farewell, Sweden, land of forests and a thousand lakes; farewell, Norway, beautiful land of fjords.

Departed Oslo at 13:00 local time, arrived Frankfurt at 15:00. At the airport, I bought a Swiss Army Knife for 49.5 German marks ($31). Then we departed Frankfurt at 17:15 and arrived at Beijing Airport at 8:25 the next day. That day, at 16:10, we flew from Beijing to Nantong, landing safely at 18:00.