Three Months in Europe: A Circular Tour, Part 12: From Castle Valley to Canal Glimmer: The Lakes and Mountains of Salzburg and Salzkammergut
Continuing from Part 11: Three Months in Europe: A Circular Tour, Part 11: Crossing Germany from North to South: King’s City, Fairy Tales, Ancient Capitals, and Eternity
As Munich's palace fades into the distance behind us and the faint aroma of hops dissipates, the clamor of the Bavarian dynasty and the bustling urban life gradually settle into the background noise of memory. We travel south by train; the city's outline blurs with the train's rapid passage, replaced by the increasingly clear silhouette of the Alps on the horizon. In the next leg of our journey, we will no longer seek the scepter of kings and empires, but rather knock on the doors of mountains and lakes, searching for Europe's purest reflection in the morning mist of the Salzburg lakes.
Salzburg means "Salt Castle," having prospered from medieval salt mining. It was once an independent prince-archbishopric until it was annexed to Austria in the early 19th century. As the birthplace of Mozart (1756), the city is filled with musical atmosphere, hosting the famous Salzburg Festival annually, attracting classical music enthusiasts from around the world.
**Salzburg Main Train Station**
The Arte Hotel Salzburg is close to Salzburg Main Train Station (280 meters). Near the main station square is the long-distance bus terminal, where you can take buses to various attractions—excellent location. The hotel is 1.5 km from the old town, reachable on foot. We stayed for 6 days.
**Mirabell Garden**
Built in 1606, Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau commissioned the construction of this palace and garden outside the city walls for his mistress Salome Alt, originally named "Altenau Palace." His successor, Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, renamed it "Mirabell Palace" (meaning "amazing beauty") to dispel scandal. Mirabell Garden is world-famous for its meticulously trimmed greenery, vibrant flowerbeds, mythological sculptures, and the majestic Hohensalzburg Fortress backdrop. It is not only one of the most popular attractions in Salzburg but also a key filming location for the movie *The Sound of Music*.
Today, the interior of Mirabell Palace serves as the city hall.
At the center of the garden is the exquisite Pegasus Fountain, surrounded by strictly symmetrical geometric flowerbeds in brilliant colors. In *The Sound of Music*, Maria and the children sing the classic "Do-Re-Mi" beside the Pegasus statue, on the steps, and in front of the green archway.
Scattered around the garden are powerful Roman mythological sculptures created by Ottavio Mosto, representing the four elements: fire, air, earth, and water.
The viewing platform is a classic spot for photographing Hohensalzburg Fortress and the dome of Salzburg Cathedral, offering a perfect composition.
Leaving Mirabell Garden, we head to the old town.
**Bank of the Salzach River**
**Side of Salzburg Cathedral**
**New Residence**, whose tall bell tower is an important part of the square's skyline and chimes melodiously every day. Part of the New Residence now houses the Salzburg Museum. Though small in scale, the museum concisely explains Salzburg's history, including the history of salt mining and the city's development, its entanglements with Bavaria and the Habsburg dynasty, and its modern development.
**Salzburg Cathedral and Salzburg Residence (right)**
**Residence Fountain**, built between 1656 and 1661, uses white marble from the Untersberg near Salzburg, showcasing the city's wealth and resources. The fountain's sculptural group is full of allegorical and mythological symbolism.
- Lower level: Neptune and seahorses—center statue of the mighty god Neptune holding a trident, surrounded by four galloping seahorses, half-horse, half-fish, leaping from the water with dynamic power, each guided by a Triton.
- Middle level: Angels riding dolphins—three cherubs joyfully riding dolphins on the fountain columns.
- Top: Three allegorical figures symbolizing Justice, Strength, and Good Faith, reflecting the archbishop's just, powerful, and pious rule.
The entire fountain perfectly embodies the core characteristics of Baroque art—movement, drama, and emotional expression—through the surging water, tense horse muscles, and dynamic postures.
**Large Golden Sphere on the square**, atop which stands a figure gazing at the fortress.
**Chess on the square**, attracting many spectators.
**Kapitel Fountain**, built in 1732, features a massive rock pile in the center with a statue of Neptune holding a trident, majestic and powerful. At the base, three seahorses are vividly depicted as if leaping from the water, full of movement and strength—a masterpiece of Baroque art.
**The waterwheel** here is a witness to the Almkanal, an artificial canal that has channeled water from the Salzach River through the old town of Salzburg since the Middle Ages. The canal's flow drove a series of such waterwheels for mills, forges, and workshops, serving as the "handicraft power source" of medieval Salzburg.
From here, the fortress cable car is clearly visible.
Two lively little boys struck cute poses when they saw I wanted to take a photo.
**St. Peter's Cemetery**, known as "one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world," is peaceful and serene, like an open-air sculpture garden. It is the final resting place of many Salzburg notables, including Mozart's sister Nannerl Mozart and the famous composer Michael Haydn. *The Sound of Music* filming location: the classic scene where the von Trapp family hides from Nazi pursuers in this cemetery.
**St. Mark's Chapel** is a precious relic of Romanesque architecture.
**St. Peter's Abbey**, located at the foot of the hill in Salzburg's old town, adjacent to the beautiful Mönchsberg. Founded by St. Rupert around 696 AD, it is the oldest monastery in Salzburg and the entire German-speaking region, still inhabited by Benedictine monks. It is not only a cradle of faith but also the origin of Salzburg's urban development.
The ornate Rococo style, with exquisite stucco decorations and frescoes, is filled with a sacred and artistic atmosphere.
**A replica of *Gazing into My Dreams, Avilda*** from the Miami Perez Art Museum. This five-meter-high bust sculpture exudes an absolute serenity and happiness. It stands in the old town's Dietrichsruh Square.
Leaving Dietrichsruh Square, a few steps lead to Getreidegasse.
**Getreidegasse**, the most famous historical street in Salzburg, is now a busy shopping street. The 3-meter-wide street is lined with narrow, tall shops, most displaying wrought-iron guild signs. On January 27, 1756, Mozart was born at Getreidegasse 9, and he lived here until moving to Vienna at age 17. It now houses the Mozart Museum.
**Reuter's Arcade**
**Mozart's Birthplace**
**Markatsteg Bridge** spans the Salzach River, Salzburg's mother river, connecting the old town and the new town. The wire mesh on both sides of the bridge is covered with hundreds of thousands of love locks, making it one of Salzburg's most romantic symbols. From the bridge, you can simultaneously enjoy the magnificent views of the old town, Hohensalzburg Fortress, and Mirabell Garden. The bridge is named after the 19th-century Austrian painter Hans Makart, a highly influential historicist and symbolist painter in Vienna.
**The cathedral's dome and towering bell tower** are among the most prominent landmarks of the old town.
Three years are engraved on the main portal: 774 (first church), 1628 (consecration of the present Baroque church), and 1959 (reconstruction after WWII damage), summarizing its long history.
The interior is lavishly decorated with large amounts of colored marble and gold. The cathedral houses five organs with a total of about 10,000 pipes, together forming one of the largest church organ systems in the world. Every summer, it serves as an important venue for the Salzburg Festival.
The magnificent dome frescoes were created by Italian painters Donato Mascagni and Ignazio Solari. These exquisite frescoes depict scenes from the Old Testament, such as the Passion and Resurrection of Christ, offering a stunning visual impact when viewed from below.
**Hohensalzburg Fortress** was first built in 1077 and underwent more than 900 years of expansion and fortification, blending Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architectural styles. Throughout history, no attacker ever successfully captured the castle, adding to its legendary status. From various points of the castle, you can enjoy breathtaking views of Salzburg city, the Salzach River, and the distant Alps.
**Kräuterbogen Arch** leads to the fortress.
The thick walls of Kräuterbogen Arch are well preserved.
The fortress interior is like a maze.
The **fortress bell tower** was built in 1465, and a fire bell was installed in 1503. In the 18th century, it was given a green dome. For centuries, it sounded the alarm of danger to the city.
Passing through the **Reck Tower**, which contains cells, this is the dungeon entrance. The last prince-archbishop and king of Salzburg was imprisoned here for life—how ironic.
**Model of Hohensalzburg Fortress**
From the top floor of the fortress museum, looking down at the **Trumpet Tower viewing platform**
From the top floor of the fortress museum, overlooking Salzburg
Descending from the museum, we pass through another gate.
**St. George's Church** perfectly blends history with serene beauty. This Romanesque church, built in the 12th century, is one of the oldest in Salzburg, dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of knights.
**Trumpet Tower** was named for the trumpets sounded there to warn the city of danger. The tower also houses a large 16th-century organ known as the "Salzburg Bull" (because its sound resembles a bull's roar), which signaled the opening and closing of the city gates.
View of Salzburg from the Trumpet Tower viewing platform.
**Descending Hohensalzburg Fortress**
Passing a church on the way back to the hotel.
Dead trees transformed into art, beautifying the city.
We took bus 846 to the terminal stop, Hintersee.
It was raining when we arrived at Hintersee.
Near the Hintersee terminal, to see the picturesque beauty, you need to walk about half a circle around the lake toward the Magic Forest.
The mountains seem ethereal and intangible, as if coming here can wash away all worldly worries.
Time seems to have stopped here.
The lake water is so clear you can see the bottom; the mountains and trees are reflected in the lake, forming peaceful and wonderful paintings.
Since 1850, many painters have come here for inspiration. Whether it's the lake and mountain scenery, morning mist, or autumn colors, every season and every angle is a perfect oil painting.
Small boats drift on the emerald-colored lake, like a fairyland on earth.
After the rain, the Darnstein Mountains and Hochkalter Mountains are shrouded in light mist, swirling among the layered peaks, as if in a fairyland. Even though we got wet, it was all worth it.
Bidding farewell to Hintersee, we hike through the Magic Forest.
Seeing the sign leading to the Magic Forest, we enter the dense forest path. At a fork, we couldn’t find a sign, took the wrong branch, and got lost. Fortunately, there was a signal in the valley, and we followed the navigation to get out of the lost area.
After nearly an hour’s walk, we finally saw the village of Ramsau.
**St. Sebastian's Church**, built in 1512, sits on the banks of the Ramsau River with the towering Hochkalter Mountain behind it, forming a perfect Alpine village scene.
It started raining again, and in Ramsau the rain became heavier. Our shoes were already soaked, so we had to give up and return to the hotel.
**Königssee Pier (starting pier)**
Next to the Königssee pier is the ticket office, where you can buy tickets on-site.
If possible, it’s recommended to board the boat before 9:00 a.m. It’s best to sit on the right side by the window. Don't get off at St. Bartholomä (middle pier)—take photos of the red-domed church from the boat for a good angle with a complete reflection. Get off at Salet (terminal pier) to visit the Upper Lake, where there are fewer people, good for photos, and the morning mist is very fairy-tale like.
During the boat ride, when the electric boat reaches about halfway to St. Bartholomä, a crew member plays a trumpet. The melodious notes echo among the mountains, and you can clearly hear multiple echoes—a tradition that has continued for a century. Have some change ready; the trumpeter will collect tips.
When the boat arrived at St. Bartholomä, we didn’t get off and went straight to the terminal pier.
**Upper Lake wooden cabin**—first go to the Milk House at the end of the Upper Lake.
At the end of the Upper Lake, you can’t miss taking reflection photos—one of the quintessential experiences of Königssee. The lake water is a unique emerald green, crystal clear.
Groups of people are resting, sitting or standing; the endless mountain ranges and the shimmering lake—paradise can't be better.
Back to the wooden cabin from the end of the Upper Lake.
After waiting two days, the weather finally gave us a smile, making the Alps scenery infinite.
**Pastures by the lake**
**St. Bartholomä Church** originated in the 12th century, said to be the patron saint of Alpine peasants and milkmaids.
Finally, we took the boat back to Königssee pier (starting pier).
The peak behind the church is the Watzmann Mountains.
It seemed like it would rain again, so we didn’t have time to go to the church on the hilltop and had to head back.
**Hallstatt** is named after the Hallstatt culture of the early Iron Age Celts; historically, the region grew rich from salt. Hallstatt is the core of the Hallstatt-Dachstein/Salzkammergut Cultural Landscape, which was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
**Lake Hallstatt** is crystal clear, lying in a high mountain valley like a wide green ribbon. Rows of wooden houses built along the lake stand out strikingly under the sunlight.
Each household has a wooden boathouse by the shore, used to moor their small wooden boats or yachts as a means of transportation.
These wooden houses are very similar to those in the Jiangnan region of China, but the walls, windows, and balconies are all made of wood. To distinguish themselves, each family adds their own style to the shape and color of the house.
Wooden houses built on the hillside are arranged in a picturesque disorder.
**Hallstatt Protestant Church (also known as Christ Church)**, built in 1863, is a prayer hall of the Austrian Evangelical Church and a landmark of Hallstatt.
**Marktplatz** is the central square of Hallstatt, the heart of local life, dating back to the 14th century. The square features a fountain and a Trinity Column, surrounded by colorful houses, with many souvenir shops, restaurants, and cafés.
**The "postcard" view of the town**—a pastoral landscape, with the distant church towering high and a few farmhouses scattered, refreshing and pleasant. After wandering for a while, it seemed like we were the only two people there—in a word, few people, beautiful scenery.
**The majestic Dachstein Mountains** form a classic Alpine landscape.
**The small pointed church**, though ordinary, stands in a special position. It becomes the finishing touch of the entire painting, making the small town of Gosau beautiful and dreamlike.
Lush meadows, dotted with tiny flowers, surrounded by fir forests, with small houses scattered here and there—a perfect Alpine pastoral scene.
Everything is quiet; time is frozen at this moment.
In the entire town, we saw only one farmer using a machine to harvest grass for cattle.
Compared to the crowded Hallstatt, there are very few tourists here, allowing you to truly relax and experience the tranquility and peace of the countryside.
**Vorderer Gosausee** is surrounded by mountains on all sides, notably by snowy peaks. A hike around the lake takes about an hour, with almost no difficulty.
The entire lake is green, making you feel as if you are walking through a painting.
The lake surface is calm, perfectly reflecting the Dachstein Mountains behind.
**Free climbing**—a broad view.
Walking on the trail around the lake, the Dachstein Mountains and glacier frequently appear, unforgettable.
**St. Wolfgang See**: In 976 AD, the saint Wolfgang founded a monastery here, giving the lake its name. In the Middle Ages, it became a route for salt merchants. The 1965 film *The Sound of Music* filmed its opening aerial shots here, significantly boosting the lake region's global recognition. The annual St. Wolfgang Festival in August continues the century-old cultural tradition of the lake area.
From Salzburg train station, take bus 150 (toward Bad Ischl). After about 50 minutes, get off at Strobl and transfer to a local bus.
Waiting here to transfer to the local bus into town.
**St. Wolfgang town**
**Steam cogwheel train station**
The cog train climbs slowly with a creaking sound, offering lovely scenery along the way—lakes, forests, towns, cattle—the mountains and water are perfect to the extreme, but the weather was overcast.
The train has only two wooden carriages, hard seats, simple decor—sitting inside feels nostalgic and fun.
**Schafberg Cog Railway Station**
**Wolfgangsee** is located in the heart of the Salzkammergut lake district and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Natural Heritage list in 1997. This lake was formed by glacial erosion, elongated, stretching about 10 km east-west, with a maximum depth of 114 meters. The lake surface is 538 meters above sea level, the water is clear and unpolluted, and it changes color between blue and green with the seasons. As the largest glacial lake in the Salzkammergut region, it is surrounded by dense forests, steep mountains, and idyllic towns, forming a typical landscape at the northern foot of the Alps.
The mountain top offers an open view and unlimited scenery—a 360-degree panoramic view that is breathtakingly beautiful! Leaning into the wind, looking near and far, the lakes, mountains, and pastoral scenes of the Alps lie before your eyes. Unfortunately, luck was not on our side; the clouds were too thick, and the scenery was greatly diminished.
There is a restaurant on the summit (not enough from the right angle) where you can have a beer and stand on the viewing terrace overlooking the lake—truly pleasant.
**The Schafberg summit (1589 m above sea level)**—on the south side, a rocky spur juts out, a gray-black protrusion amidst the green, adding a bit of ruggedness to the beautiful mountains.
Another viewing platform on the cliff offers unparalleled sunrise and sunset views, but today the weather was unkind, with dark clouds on the horizon.
Mountain weather changes like a child's face: in less than an hour, fierce winds rose on Schafberg, temperatures dropped sharply, visibility fell below 100 meters, and the mountains and lake disappeared from sight. The entire Schafberg was shrouded in gray skies, and tourists were trapped inside the Schafberg train station. We waited in the main hall of the station for two hours. When it was time to descend, we reluctantly left.
Back at the St. Wolfgang train station, the hall displays a steam cogwheel locomotive.
Descending from Schafberg, we reached the town. The rain was continuous.
The town's eclectic architecture, streets lined with many unique shops, inns, restaurants, and cafés. The town is a nature reserve and has maintained its original appearance for centuries.
**Weisses Rössl (White Horse Inn)** gained fame from Ralph Benatzky's operetta *The White Horse Inn on Lake Wolfgang*.
The rain continued, so we changed our approach and sat down to watch the rain over Lake Wolfgang.
Time stands still on the lake.
And there was a brave soul swimming in the icy lake.
A cruise boat could take you to roam the beautiful lake and mountain scenery; if the weather had been good today, we would have taken the boat to St. Gilgen.
White horse motifs are everywhere, becoming the town's souvenir mascot.
**Adorable ice cream advertising car.**
**Pilgrimage Church** originally Romanesque, destroyed by fire in 1429, rebuilt in Gothic style in 1430. From 1471 to 1481, the renowned sculptor Michael Pacher spent ten years hand-carving a magnificent, ornate Gothic altarpiece, known as the Pacher Altar, which remains intact to this day—one of Europe's most precious church treasures.
Strolling along the lakeside path in the rain, with a thin mist over the lake and mountains, the town looked hazy, dreamlike.
The white tower of the church is the town's landmark, visible from everywhere.
Gradually the rain stopped, and the view before us was stunning! St. Wolfgang is the brightest jewel among the many sapphires of the Salzkammergut lake district.
The journey through Salzburg and the Alpine lake region has ended, but those images and feelings are etched more deeply in my heart than any photograph. If travel is about seeking answers, then the mountains, rivers, and lakes along the way have given the best response.
While wandering the cobblestone streets of Salzburg's old town, I never imagined that every day thereafter would bring scenery that struck my heart in such unrepeatable ways. The emerald green and silence of Königssee, the solemn moment when the boatman blew the trumpet—the echo bouncing off the cliffs as if time itself had stopped. Hallstatt is indeed like everyone says, like a postcard. But what truly made me linger was Gosau—no crowds, only quiet mountains and forests, and the trace of wind passing over the grassy slopes. Its beauty doesn't compete or demand attention, yet it strikes straight to the heart. The incomplete mountain-top view on Schafberg was like a movement cut short, and we witnessed its unknown, powerful side. Sometimes, regrets in travel engrave themselves deeper into memory than perfection.
Looking back, this journey feels like a carefully composed sonata—Salzburg was the brilliant overture, Königssee and Hintersee the deep adagio, Hallstatt the elegant rondo, Gosau the quiet minuet, and St. Wolfgang and Schafberg an unfinished promise. What I take away is not just a full photo album and souvenirs, but a calm washed clean by the landscapes and a renewed understanding of the beauty of life. The Alps are still there, the lakes are still there, and I know that a part of me will remain forever on those misty lake shores and mountain paths dotted with wildflowers.
Next: Three Months in Europe: A Circular Tour, Part 13: From Castle Valley to Canal Glimmer: A Tale of Four Cities—Heidelberg, Cologne, Bonn, Aachen
Table of Contents
1. Preface
2. Salzburg
3. Mirabell Garden
4. Salzburg Old Town
5. Residence Square
6. Mozart Square
7. Chapter Square
8. St. Peter's Abbey
9. Getreidegasse
10. Markatsteg Bridge
11. Salzburg Cathedral
12. Hohensalzburg Fortress
13. Main Viewing Platform
14. Historical Museum
15. St. George's Church
16. Trumpet Tower Viewing Platform
17. Hintersee
18. Ramsau
19. Königssee
20. Upper Lake
21. St. Bartholomä
22. Berchtesgaden
23. Hallstatt
24. Gosau
25. Vorderer Gosausee
26. Wolfgangsee Region
27. Schafberg
28. St. Wolfgang Town
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