Island Journey at 39° North Latitude: The Most Complete Guide to Dalian Changhai 5 Islands

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As an island travel enthusiast, I've been visiting famous resort islands over the years: Tahiti, Maldives, Fiji, Mauritius, Hawaii, Bali... Collecting as many island landscapes around the world as possible is definitely one of the most important items on our travel wish list.

Unfortunately, the special year of 2020 forced us to pause our island-hopping adventures and temporarily set aside our longing for the blue ocean. But luckily, our country's epidemic prevention has been effective, and there are still 9.6 million square kilometers of beautiful landscapes waiting for us to explore, including thousands of islands. Now that autumn has arrived—a season of harvest and the opening of the sea—it's time to pack our bags and head into that archipelago at 39° north latitude...

Changhai County is the only island county in Northeast China and also the only island border county in the country. It is located in the northern part of the Yellow Sea on the eastern side of the Liaodong Peninsula, facing the Korean Peninsula to the east, facing the Miaodao Islands of Shandong to the southwest, and adjacent to Dalian city proper, Pulandian City, and Zhuanghe City to the west and north. It is the closest region in Northeast China to Japan and South Korea.

Changhai County, also known as Changshan Archipelago, has 195 islands, a vast sea area of 10,324 square kilometers, and a coastline of 359 kilometers. It is not as hot and unrestrained as tropical islands but possesses the unique rustic nature of northern islands.

In the past, my habit when writing travel notes was to first introduce the route and attractions, and then attach some practical information at the end. However, for island travel, especially an archipelago like Changhai, there is quite a bit of homework to do before departure to ensure a smooth trip. So this time, I've deliberately placed it at the beginning to help you better plan your journey.

In fact, by the time I started writing this travelogue, we had already been to Changhai three times, staying for over half a month in total, before accumulating this information and experience. So use it wisely and cherish it, haha.

Changhai County is located in Dalian City. As the most popular tourist city in Liaoning, getting to Dalian is very convenient. Most first- and second-tier cities across the country have direct flights, and smaller cities can easily reach it via connecting flights. For friends from the three northeastern provinces and surrounding provinces, high-speed rail is a quick option.

So after arriving in Dalian, how do you get to the islands?

Well, for islands, the most common mode of transportation is, of course, taking a boat. From Dalian's Pikou Port and Xingshutun Pier, there are direct ferries to Da Changshan Island, Xiao Changshan Island, Guanglu Island, Zhangzi Island, and Haiyang Island. Specific schedules can be checked and booked by phone or online. Travel times to each island vary, generally 1-2 hours, which is relatively fast. Along the way, seagulls follow the boat, and on clear days, you can go up on deck to enjoy the view.

However, the piers in Dalian are quite far from the city center. For example, taking a taxi from Dalian Airport to Pikou Port costs over 100 kilometers and a taxi fare of 200-300 yuan. If you are traveling with a small group or are not in a hurry, you can also take a public bus. There are stops at the city's North Railway Station and Main Railway Station, with tickets costing 30 yuan per person.

In addition, there is a faster option that, for me, is a unique experience: taking a small plane to the islands. Departing from Dalian Airport, it takes only a few tens of minutes to reach Changhai Airport—the first county-level civil airport in China. Although the Yun-12 aircraft operating this route is not large, its configuration is quite interesting: each seat has a palm-leaf fan in front, which you might not see elsewhere. The small plane flies at a low altitude, offering an unobstructed view of the sea surface along the way. Especially when approaching, you can take in the entire scenery of Da and Xiao Changshan Islands—a God's-eye perspective that cannot be captured on land. So, have your camera ready in advance. Moreover, the ticket price is quite cheap: the original price is only 199 yuan, and during off-peak or special promotions, it can be as low as 99 yuan (including tax). However, one inconvenience of flying is that you cannot check or carry large luggage; each person is only allowed 5 kilograms of carry-on baggage. Also, online booking is not currently available; you need to reserve a seat by phone and pay at the airport before departure (Changhai Airport reservation phone: 0411-89881366).

Let me highlight the key points again so you can choose the method that suits you:

By boat: Advantages—frequent departures, can bring large luggage; Disadvantages—Dalian port is too far from the city center.

By plane: Advantages—short travel time, Dalian Airport is close to the city center; Disadvantages—cannot bring large luggage, no online booking.

Also, whether you travel by boat or plane, I need to remind you that the weather on the islands is changeable. Ferry schedules are only announced one day in advance, and sudden weather changes can cause cancellations even on the same day. Try not to book connecting trains or flights too early or too rigidly.

If you like self-driving, you can take your car on the ferry to the island, but you need to reserve a parking spot one day in advance. The cost per vehicle is about 300 yuan one way.

However, personally, I don't recommend driving on the islands, especially for short trips. First, it's inconvenient to frequently transport cars between islands. Second, the islands are not large in area, and taxis are quite convenient and affordable.

There is a temperature difference between the seaside in the morning and evening, so it's advisable to bring warm clothing. Sunscreen is also essential for outdoor activities. Additionally, there are many mosquitoes and insects in the mountainous forests, and bites take a long time to heal. I still have marks on my feet from bites half a month ago. So, bring mosquito repellent spray, and it's best to wear long-sleeved clothes and long pants when going into the grass. Finally, boat rides between islands are unavoidable; if you are prone to seasickness, remember to take seasickness medicine an hour beforehand. Of course, these items are also available on the islands, so don't panic if you forget to bring them.

As a northern fishing village experiential island, Changhai's accommodations offer both resort and homestay options. Here is a recommended list for your reference. In the detailed introductions of each island later, I will also recommend places we have stayed.

Haishan Island Resort Hotel (Xiao Changshan Island)

Discovery Kingdom Guanglu Island Hotel

Tujia Sweetome Vacation Hotel (Da Changshan Island)

Lisa International Hotel (Da Changshan Island)

Bo'an Jinwan Resort Hotel (Da Changshan Island)

Haidao Hualu (Zhangzi Island)

Zhoujia Xiaoyuan (Zhangzi Island)

Shunfuxuan Fisherman Inn (Da Changshan Island)

Xiehou Shiguang Fisherman Inn (Da Changshan Island)

Haian Shanju (Guanglu Island)

Daoli Mingshe Inn (Guanglu Island)

Haiyuewan Fisherman (Haiyang Island)

Before coming to Changhai, I was amazed by this dense map of delicious food. I thought that even if my appetite wasn't that big, I could at least try half of it. But reality was a bit cruel, haha. Seafood is also seasonal, and most of the time we were busy shooting and didn't have much time to seek out food. So the task of trying them all is left to you, haha.

But regardless, the five specialty seafoods of Changdao are a must-try: Haliotis discus hannai (abalone), sea cucumber (Stichopus japonicus), Dalian purple sea urchin, Patinopecten yessoensis (scallop), and conch.

In Changhai, there are four main ways to eat seafood: ordering at a restaurant, bringing your own ingredients for processing, fisherman's package meals, or cooking yourself. Larger seafood restaurants usually have some seafood ingredients ready for you to order and have cooked. If you want to eat something not available at the restaurant, you can buy it at the seafood market or fishing dock and have the restaurant process it for a small fee. If you are staying at a fisherman's inn that includes three meals, the host will usually buy fresh ingredients and vary the flavors daily. Personally, I prefer staying at a homestay with a kitchen and cooking the seafood I buy myself—it feels more fun.

There are quite a few activities to enjoy in Changhai. Seaside facilities like sailboats, kayaks, and beach bicycles can be rented.

But for me, the most enjoyable activities on northern islands are the harvest-type experiences: sea fishing and beach combing (ganhai). Located in the high-quality waters at 39° north latitude, the waters around each island in Changhai have good fishing spots. Joining a local sea fishing club, an experienced captain can always help you get a good catch. Charter boat prices vary depending on the boat size and duration of the trip. If you have a small group, you can also share a boat. Generally, per-person cost starts at around 300 yuan, and you can take your catch home to enjoy.

If you find going out to sea too tiring, worry about seasickness, or don't want to spend too much, beach combing is a great fishing experience. On different coastlines in Changhai, you can harvest clams, mussels, oysters, small crabs, small conches, sea urchins, starfish, etc. Just prepare a small bucket, iron shovel, rake, rubber boots, and gloves, and when the tide goes out, you can show your skills at the beach. However, tourists are usually unfamiliar with the tides and the distribution of marine products. If you just dig randomly, it's mostly for fun. If you really want to get a good haul, you need guidance from locals.

If you're lucky, you might even hear the Changhai haozi (work song) at the seaside. This was included in the Liaoning Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2005, with long historical value and unique cultural value. A leader calls out and the group responds, the tune is loud and stretching, truly inspiring and full of positive energy.

As mentioned earlier, Changhai has many large and small islands, of which 18 are inhabited. The ones more suitable for tourists usually include Da Changshan Island, Xiao Changshan Island, Guanglu Island, Zhangzi Island, Haiyang Island, Dalian Island, Da Haozi Island, Haxian Island, Guapi Island, Gexian Island, etc. Below, I will focus on introducing the first few that tourists most commonly choose.

Da Changshan Island & Xiao Changshan Island

Although Da Changshan Island and Xiao Changshan Island are two separate islands and towns in Changhai County, they are closely connected by a cross-sea bridge. The Changshan Bridge is currently the prestressed concrete low-tower cable-stayed bridge with the largest span in China, with a total length of 3,450 meters. Since it opened to traffic in 2014, it has finally connected Da and Xiao Changshan Islands, which had been separated by the sea for millions of years. The bridge itself has also become a local tourist attraction. If you take a small plane to the island, you can see the plane flying along the bridge through the left window as it approaches.

There are many large and small reefs around the Changhai Islands (also called tuozi by locals), which have become popular attractions due to their different shapes. For example, the Wannian Ship and the Divine Turtle Exploring the Sea on Da Changshan Island, the Five Tiger Stones on Haxian Island, and the General Stone on Guanglu Island, etc.

Located on Da Changshan Island, this rock is about 300 meters long, 110 meters wide, and 68 meters high. It is named Golden Toad Tuozi because it resembles a crouching toad. The most realistic view is from a distance. If interested, you can climb a small path to the top, where there is a lighthouse—an important navigation beacon for entering and leaving the ports of the Changshan Archipelago.

I also recommend another excellent spot to view the Golden Toad: from Xiao Changshan Island, especially at dusk, when the Golden Toad looks at the setting sun sinking into the sea—it's really beautiful.

Xiaoshuikou Forest Park is located at the easternmost end of Xiao Changshan Island. It features viewing platforms, wooden boardwalks, glass boardwalks, etc., offering sea views and some small recreational activities, suitable for all ages. Admission is 40 yuan.

Lituo Bay is another seaside attraction on Xiao Changshan Island, but it's a free open bay. You can take a walk along the beach, and there is an idle old fishing boat that has become a photo prop for many people.

Along the coastline of Da and Xiao Changshan Islands, there are many small bays worth stopping by. The place you stay might have nearby spots worth exploring. Ask locals for recommendations.

Now, for accommodation recommendations, Haishan Island Resort Hotel is definitely the best without a doubt. The hotel is located on the western side of Xiao Changshan Island, built on the mountain in layers. It offers various room types: standard rooms, family rooms, villas, and even a caravan campground.

The hotel's seawater pool can be heated when the weather is cold, maintaining 22-26°C. There is also a 40°C hot seawater SPA. For entertainment, there are beach soccer, volleyball, golf practice, and sailboats and paddleboards imported from Australia.

For dining, we stayed here for about a week. The secret recipe braised pork belly in the Chinese restaurant left a deep impression, and the seafood hotpot was also tempting. The hotel also has a Western restaurant, café, beach restaurant, terrace restaurant, etc. A while ago, we enjoyed a seafood feast on the top-floor terrace while watching the sunset. It was unexpected to find that the romantic pavilion also had equipment for both barbecue and hotpot—very thoughtful of the hotel.

But what left the deepest impression on me was the stunning sunset. The hotel's location is almost perfect. The top-floor terrace offers a 270-degree sea view, directly facing Golden Toad Island. On clear days, you can lie on a terrace lounge chair and watch the sunset colors change from gold to purple to pink, and finally, the egg-yolk-like sun slowly sinking into the sea. It was incredibly romantic. We even captured a moment of rain falling on the island while the sun was setting over the sea.

The hotel's cats are also very cute.

For Da Changshan Island, I personally recommend two places.

Changhai Sweetome Apartment is located next to the Four Stone Bay Park. It was the first hotel we stayed at when we first came to Changhai. My first impression was how large the room was—the basic room type is about 40 square meters, with high floors, giving a spacious and airy feel. The public spaces are also impressive, like the lobby's log-front desk and shell-hanging chandeliers, giving a hint of ocean atmosphere. The overall hotel design is by a Yunnan garden master, so you can also feel some southern charm.

The hotel's location is also good. It's within walking distance to Da Changshan Island's commercial pedestrian street and seaside square, with many seafood markets and restaurants nearby.

Lisa International Hotel is a different style. It focuses on villa-based vacation experiences, with RVs and log cabins as specialty room types. The hotel is right by the sea, with the courtyard facing the beach, just tens of meters away. The environment is quiet and leisurely, suitable for those who prefer peace.

Guanglu Island is the closest island to the mainland in Changhai County and also the largest island. It is known as the "Hometown of Sea Cucumbers" and "Hometown of Chinese Yellow-billed Egrets." As early as 7,000 years ago in the Neolithic Age, humans lived here. The island has rich tourism resources, including beaches, harbors, mountains, lakes, temples, and is one of the islands with relatively well-developed tourism facilities in Changhai.

Laotieshan Scenic Area is a must-visit on Guanglu Island. Drive or take a taxi to the top of the mountain, then walk up along the wooden boardwalk. At the highest point, you can take in the entire view of Guanglu Island. The walkway is about 300 meters long and takes about ten minutes to complete, with a gentle slope, so it's not a concern for the elderly or children.

Continuing from the mountaintop toward the seaside, you'll find the Mazu Temple and Fairy Lake, and you can see Bird Island in the distance.

Bird Island is also called Fantozi locally, because it hosts a large number of migratory birds, and their droppings are so abundant that from a distance it looks like it's covered in alum (fan). The best way to enjoy Bird Island is to go out to sea, especially in summer, when the sky is filled with countless birds, creating a spectacular sight.

However, by the time we arrived, there weren't many birds left, so we didn't go specifically. But a boat tour around Guanglu Island is still a good choice. In addition to Bird Island, you can also see the General Stone and other sea rocks. Charter boat prices start at around 500 yuan, or you can join a group and pay per person.

Besides sea sightseeing, the coastline of Guanglu Island also has many beautiful spots. For example, near Erdagou on the eastern side, you can overlook the legendary Guanglu Mountain.

If you want to swim in the sea or play in the sand, you can go to Moon Bay Bathing Beach near the town government. The area near the entrance tends to have more people and debris, so I suggest walking further in. There is also a coastal trail for walking.

For accommodation, Guanglu Island has many fisherman homestays, but I personally prefer the high-end Dalian Discovery Kingdom Guanglu Island Hotel, currently the best in Changhai.

This place is actually more than just a hotel; it's a resort integrating tourism, leisure, and entertainment. The resort is equipped with luxurious sea-view hotel, sea-view villas, sea-view swimming pool, and European-style banquet hall. It's not only suitable for ordinary tourists on vacation but also for corporate team building, friend parties, or island weddings.

Last time, we stayed in a sea-view suite, which was very spacious. The hardware and software in the room were well-equipped. I think even guests with high requirements for accommodation during travel would be satisfied. What impressed me most was the view from the room—or should I say, the view you can enjoy while lying in bed. Outside the balcony is the pool, facing the direction of sunrise, and at night, you can watch the stars. Because the hotel is located at a high point on the coastline with little light pollution, the stars are very clear.

During the day, you won't be bored. You can take a taxi to nearby attractions or, with staff guidance, go fishing for crabs on the rocks.

The hotel's location is private and quiet, so there are no restaurants within walking distance. But dining in the hotel is not a concern, as the hotel offers various cuisines to suit different tastes. You can also buy seafood and ask the chef to cook it. If you don't want to go out, you can even ask the seafood vendor to deliver the freshest seafood directly to the hotel (the front desk has phone numbers and price lists). The hotel only charges a processing fee, which is very reasonable.

Near Guanglu Island, there is another place to stay—Caishen Island. It should be the only island in Changhai that has a single hotel covering the entire island. Caishen Island is the largest uninhabited island in Changhai and the closest island to the mainland, known as the "Gateway to Dalian." It is a national island forest park and a resort island for accommodation and vacation.

Zhangzi Island: We visited it twice. Mountains and sea complement each other, with green water and blue sky. It's a typical seaside town and a natural oxygen bar.

The iconic attraction on Zhangzi Island is undoubtedly Eagle Beak Rock. A 10-meter-high giant rock connected to the land, extending into the sea like an eagle facing south, hence the name. You can enjoy it from the sea by boat, or climb down more than 2,000 steps from the top of the mountain to get under the eagle's body. However, the path is steep and narrow, with many mosquitoes, so it's not recommended for the elderly or children.

Besides Eagle Beak Rock, the coastline of Zhangzi Island has many interesting reef beaches. For example, the East Beach recommended by our homestay owner. At low tide, the rocks and sand are exposed, with clear water, few people, and a quiet atmosphere—worth visiting.

East Beach is just one beautiful spot we found near our homestay. Other parts of the island's coastline also have different charms that you can slowly discover.

The most visited area for tourists is probably Jin (Golden) Beach near the town center. This stretch of beach is clean, with relatively fine sand. During peak season, there are recreational facilities like water bicycles.

In addition to natural scenery, the graffiti wall on the road next to the Zhangzi Island Shellfish Processing Center is a popular Instagram spot in Changhai. Various colorful graffiti, themed around the ocean or fisherman's life, are quite interesting and look good in photos.

Sea entertainment on Zhangzi Island is among the richest in Changhai. The marine resources are abundant, making it a habitat for nearly a hundred species of fish, including yellowtail kingfish, cod, dolphin fish, sea bass, sixline fish, black cod, and more. There are 20,000 acres of exclusive natural fishing grounds and 70 professional sea fishing boats. It is said among fishing enthusiasts that "if you want to catch big fish, go to Zhangzi Island."

Besides sea fishing, Zhangzi Island also offers chances to see whales and seals in different seasons, and it has the only semi-submersible boat in Changhai.

I originally regretted that the cold weather prevented snorkeling, but through this method, you can still experience the underwater world, suitable for the elderly and children who can't swim.

Entering the underwater cabin of the semi-submersible boat, you watch divers dive to the seabed. In no time, they bring up various sea cucumbers, abalones, scallops, and other seafood, all of which are quite large—it's really amazing. And the freshly caught scallops can be opened and eaten right there, very sweet and fresh. If you get a chance, you must try it.

During peak season, the semi-submersible boat has fixed departure times, costing 200-300 yuan per person. During off-peak season, if there are no fixed schedules, you can charter the boat, starting from around 1,500 yuan. With a group, it can be quite cost-effective.

After introducing the attractions and activities, I still need to recommend accommodation, because where you stay and how it feels has a big impact on the entire island trip.

On Zhangzi Island, there is currently the best homestay in Changhai, without a doubt: Haidao Hualu (Island Flower Cottage). The homestay is Mediterranean in style. Phases 1 and 2 have two courtyards with consistent blue-and-white tones, very vacation-like, but each has its own characteristics. Phase 1 has a small garden with various flowers and succulents, fresh and elegant. Phase 2 features a popular swimming pool and an open stepped courtyard that looks great in photos.

Both phases share a common practical facility: a large, fully equipped kitchen and dining area. We cooked a seafood feast in the Phase 2 kitchen a few days ago and met other guests cooking as well—it felt a bit like a cooking competition. But because the space is large and there are plenty of tools, even several families using it at the same time is no problem. And I have to say, the owner really spares no expense. Not only is the homestay's hardware top-notch, but even the kitchen utensils are high-quality and beautiful. There are even more seasonings available than I have at home.

The rooms themselves come in different types, suitable for couples or families. The bedrooms and bathrooms are quite spacious.

There is also a little corgi named Nannan, very lively and cute. It is said that many guests come specifically for her!

The homestay and the dog are very appealing, but they are so popular that even with 15 rooms, it's hard to get a reservation during peak season. When we first came to Zhangzi Island, we couldn't book it. But we found another place, Zhoujia Xiaoyuan, which was also good—simple and plain fisherman style, with very friendly and hospitable owners and delicious fisherman-style food. I recommend it as well.

When you come to Zhangzi Island, you might hear about the "Three Outer Islands," which are Da Haozi Island, Xiao Haozi Island, and Dalian Island near Zhangzi Island. Although small, each has its own characteristics. If you have enough time, you can arrange a day trip. Since they are very close, even if you don't stay overnight, you can go back and forth in a day.

For example, we spent a day with the fishing club on Dalian Island, going out to sea to fish and combing the reefs. The small island has fewer residents and tourists, making it even more peaceful.

Among the five towns in Changhai County, Haiyang Island is the farthest island in the Changshan Archipelago. It is located deep in the Yellow Sea, facing the Korean Peninsula to the east and adjacent to the Changshan Islands to the northwest. Its strategic position is very important, earning it the name "Outpost of the Yellow Sea." In recent years, it has opened to tourists, attracting attention due to its fresh air, clear seawater, and lack of pollution. It is one of the cleanest sea areas in Dalian, far from the noisy city, more quiet and relaxing. Standing on the top of Qinglong Mountain, you can overlook the southernmost territorial sea base point of the Yellow Sea—Nan Tuozi. On a clear day, you can take a boat to Nan Tuozi to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the country's border seas.

However, because of its relatively remote location, there aren't ferries to Haiyang Island every day; sometimes they depart every other day. So, if you plan to come here, try to allow enough time.

Over half a month, we visited all five towns of Changhai County. While summarizing this most detailed guide currently online, we also opened a new chapter in our island journey.

Our motherland has vast territory and a long coastline, waiting for us to gradually explore...

Travelogue Contents:

1. Preface: The 2020 Island Journey Begins at 39° North Latitude

2. Pre-trip Essential Practical Information

3. Changhai: Accommodation, Food, and Entertainment

4. Detailed Introduction to the Five Islands of Changhai (Da & Xiao Changshan, Guanglu, Zhangzi, Haiyang)

5. Conclusion: The 2020 Island Journey Continues from 39° North Latitude

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