The Slow Life of Changhai, with a Touch of Kamakura
Summer is forever associated with one tagline: the sea. The seas are similar, yet they always evoke different feelings in different places. The sea of the Maldives blends into the sunshine there, warm and passionate; the sea of Kamakura is reserved, its tides ebbing and flowing with stories of pure love.
I first learned about Dalian's Changhai County when a friend said it was the 'Maldives of Northern China.' It's the only island county in Northeast China, consisting of 252 islands. Upon first arrival, you might find it resembles Kamakura more, but after a few days, you realize it doesn't resemble any other island—it has its own unique charm.
Da Changshan Island is located in the southeast of the Liaodong Peninsula and the north of the Changshan Archipelago. It is the seat of the Changhai County government in Liaoning Province, named for its long shape and numerous mountains. The island has a winding coastline and connected bays. The organic combination of row upon row of European-style architecture and coastal scenery adds infinite charm to this small seaside town.
'At Small Water Inlet, the big water rushes; torrents face the sand causeway. Twin pearls stand in the mirror; the epitome of the archipelago lies here.' Hidden at the easternmost tip of Xiao Changshan Island, its clear and tranquil beauty is its most captivating quality. The winding wooden boardwalk embraces the green mountains and blue sea. On one side is a magnificent sea view, the pure blue sea like a mirror. When you look into the distance, there is endless azure, with bright, star-like glass floats twinkling. When you look down, you can catch glimpses of clear, greenish ripples.
Da and Xiao Changshan Islands are probably the liveliest parts of Changhai County. From Changshan Island, you can island-hop to almost every small island in Changhai County. If we must say Changhai County is the 'Maldives of the North,' then Da Changshan Island is probably 'Malé.' The two islands are connected by a bridge, and there are many ferries running daily to and from Pikou Port, making transportation relatively convenient.
On the nearby reefs, flocks of seagulls either play or circle. At high tide, the sea gently washes over the beach, carrying a few strands of green kelp. The beach is where fishermen dry their kelp. The various islands and reefs at the northeastern end of Changshan Island face each other across the water at high tide, but when the tide recedes, they connect into one area, making it a great spot for fishing and clamming.
Compared to Da Changshan Island, Xiao Changshan Island has finer sand and clearer water. It is only a five-minute sea journey from Da Changshan Island. The ferries are roll-on/roll-off vessels, with ramps that lower onto the beach like drawbridges over a moat, allowing passengers to board and disembark freely. When the ship departs, the ramp is raised—no dedicated dock needed. The island has a natural bathing beach with clean sand and water, a great place for locals who are used to riding the waves to do their morning exercises. They swim to the opposite shore, take a stroll, and swim back.
If the weather is good, you can visit Xiaoshui Kou Forest Park. The park has high vegetation coverage. Take a deep breath, and you'll be filled with the fresh scent of grass and wood, with a hint of coolness entering your lungs, making you feel completely healed. Standing on the glass-bottomed boardwalk, looking at the crystal-clear seawater, it feels as if you are standing on the ocean surface. The empty coastal boardwalk and clean water are particularly captivating.
There are plenty of accommodations on Da and Xiao Changshan Islands, and development is quite mature. We stayed at Haishan Island Hotel, which has many water sports facilities, including kayaks and sailboats. You can eat, drink, and have fun right at the hotel. The shipwreck is near the hotel, within walking distance.
Changshan Island is really a great place for photography—scenery at every step. The old, broken shipwreck on the shore can make you feel like you're in a movie scene. Because there are so few people, you can almost only hear the sound of waves hitting the shore reefs, making the silent shipwreck even more weathered and profound. I love such tranquil islands; they give me a sense of time travel, just like at Kamakura's seaside, where you feel like you've stepped into a Japanese drama. Here, I can almost see fishermen heading out to sea on swaying fishing boats.
1. How to get to Da and Xiao Changshan Islands
I took a taxi from Dalian Zhoushuizi Airport to Pikou Port. From Pikou Port, there are ferries to various islands, with many departures. You can buy tickets on the same day.
I went to Da Changshan Island from Guanglu Island, with one ferry per day. The departure time varies daily; after 5:30 PM on the same day, you can find out the next day's schedule.
2. How to buy ferry tickets
Tickets from Pikou Port can be purchased through the mini-program 'Dalian Pulandian District Pikou Port Affairs Company.' If you are island-hopping from another island to Da or Xiao Changshan, you need to buy tickets directly at the dock.
'When the forest is deep, you see deer; when the sea is blue, you see whales.' As soon as I heard the name Guanglu Island, I thought of this saying, and I was filled with anticipation for this island with its fresh-sounding name. Looking up the name in ancient books, it says the land is fertile and vast, with lush grass and trees, and the sound of deer bleating, eating the wild celery—hence the name Guanglu [Broad Deer]. The place where the first wisp of cooking smoke rose in southern Liaoning is here, the brightest pearl among the Changshan Archipelago, and the uninhabited islands far from the hustle and bustle are also here.
Guanglu Island is a national island forest park, with a sea area of 1,000 square kilometers and a coastline of 74 kilometers. It is the largest island in the Changshan Islands. The transparent blue seawater did not disappoint me. Why go to Sanya? This place has few people and beautiful scenery—isn't it nicer? The Xiaozhu Mountain cultural site, with 7,000-year-old relics still present, records the civilization process of the island's early inhabitants; Tieshan Fairy Lake is graceful and romantic; the Mazu Temple Fair, where people climb the mountain to pray, carries the hopes of the islanders for the year; standing on the summit of Guanglu, looking into the distance, the small islets and corals are like miniature gardens, and being there, you can take in the mountain and sea scenery at a glance.
If not for the northeastern dialect buzzing in my ears, I might have thought I was in Kamakura. This sea is so pure. It's been a long time since I've really looked at a sea like this. Sitting on the shore, feeling the sea breeze, only one word came to mind: 'Wonderful!'
After arriving on Guanglu Island, my whole pace slowed down. There's no need to rush to check off attractions. The best choice is to rent a car and circle the island to get a feel for it. Feeling the sea breeze, looking at the endless ocean, I felt inexplicably healed. Whenever I saw a beautiful spot, I stopped to take pictures—truly pleasant.
Since you're here, don't miss the attractions, or you'll regret it. Guanglu Island has several scenic spots. I suggest visiting Moon Bay and Old Tieshan. Moon Bay Beach is close to my hotel. The sand there is very fine, suitable for kids. Digging in the sand with the kids and swimming in the sea is also a great experience.
It would be a shame to come to the seaside and not go clam digging. Around the Mid-Autumn Festival period, high tide occurs from morning to afternoon. If you want to go clam digging, avoid this time. The best time is early morning, when you can take a small bucket and shovel during low tide and experience the joy of 'picking up gear.' Many hotels provide clam digging tools. If you have too much luggage, you don't need to bring your own—they are available here.
I met a cute crab. Although its big pincers looked fierce, its sideways walk was somehow amusing. I stared at it for a long time, torn between steaming it or frying it with salt and pepper. Before I could make a move, it seemed to read my mind and escaped.
A long-anticipated trip, the place I longed for was the mountains and the sea. Coming to Guanglu Island, a must-visit is Tieshan Fairy Lake Scenic Area. Immersed in the mountain and sea scenery, standing on the summit of Tieshan, watching the sunrise in the morning and the sunset glow in the evening, looking far into the distance, I felt relaxed and joyful. Wandering around, I looked down at the charm of the 'Heavenly Lake on the Sea,' marveling at the wonder of Fairy Lake. There are no streams in the mountains, no springs at the foot, yet there is the wonder of 'mountain lake on one side, sea on the other; to the east, you fish for silver carp, to the west, seafood.'
On the side of Old Tieshan facing the sea, there is a Mazu Temple. Looking far into the distance, the small island looked particularly beautiful, so it wasn't a wasted trip. The wind was a bit strong on the mountain, but if the weather is good, the scenery is quite healing. The ticket was 30 yuan per person, worth the price.
Mazu Temple was built during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. After reconstruction, the temple covers 204 square meters, housing a statue of Mazu with attendant boys and girls, as well as the Three Officials of Heaven, Earth, and Water. During the Mazu Temple Fair, people from southern Liaoning rush to the island to pay homage. The temple is always filled with incense, with over 10,000 pilgrims and tourists each year. Every year on the 16th day of the sixth lunar month, devoted men and women come to the island and the temple to burn incense and pray for favorable weather, good harvests, abundant fish catches, and thriving populations.
How can you come to an island and miss out on seafood? No matter how tight the schedule, you can't skip the food. Guanglu Island has a vast sea area and abundant specialties, including sea cucumbers, shrimp, shellfish, and seaweed. The island's special product, the Patinopecten yessoensis scallop, is a top-quality scallop. The hospitality of the northeastern people is fully reflected in the portion sizes—every dish is served generous and full. Simplicity is the unique filter that local customs add to this small island.
Eating here is not a problem because the ingredients are fresh and of good quality. Every fisherman's restaurant on Guanglu Island has its own characteristics, but it's hard to have a bad meal. Freshly caught fish, simply prepared, tastes delicious. The prices are also reasonable, no tourist traps, which allowed me, a seafood lover, to feast to my heart's content.
1. How to get to Guanglu Island
I took a taxi from Dalian Zhoushuizi Airport to Pikou Port. From Pikou Port, there are ferries to various islands, with many departures. You can buy tickets on the same day.
2. How to buy ferry tickets
Tickets from Pikou Port can be purchased through the mini-program 'Dalian Pulandian District Pikou Port Affairs Company.' Tickets to Guanglu Island cost 45 yuan per person, and when I went, there were three departures per day. If you are island-hopping, ask the hotel about ferry times. Basically, by 5 PM each day, you can find out the next day's schedule.
3. Accommodation on Guanglu Island
There are many accommodation options on the island, including hotels and guesthouses. We stayed at Haichang Guanglu Island Resort Hotel. The overall facilities are decent, the rooms are huge, and the price is reasonable. The hotel faces the sea, and at low tide you can go clam digging.
As a traveler who enjoys discovering off-the-beaten-path destinations, Changshan Island and Guanglu Island have indeed brought me many surprises. I never expected that Dalian still hides such a 'paradise.' Someone asked, isn't it all just the sea—what's different? Just seawater and sand, you'll get bored after seeing it. But for me, my treasure trove is not famous mountains and great rivers, but places like Changshan Island and Guanglu Island, which I never tire of looking at. Although they don't have renowned attractions, they make everyone who comes feel relaxed and healed.
