Changshan Island Diary – Travel Guide

Dalian is a beautiful city. According to unofficial data, Dalian has 538 islands, including 40 inhabited islands and 498 uninhabited islands. There is the mysterious Sanshan Island that even locals are not fully aware of, the twin islands of Big and Little Changshan, the story-filled Zhangzi Island, Haiyang Island from which you can overlook the Korean Peninsula, the well-known Guanglu Island, and the Bangchuidao Island right in downtown Dalian. The list goes on.

Big and Little Changshan Islands, as the two largest islands in the Changhai County archipelago, are convenient in transportation, beautiful in scenery, with soft sunlight and clear waters. The many islands facing each other across the sea create a feeling akin to the Aegean Sea, making them well worth a visit. Due to time constraints, I only visited Big and Little Changshan Islands. If time had allowed, I might have visited every reachable island in the Changhai County archipelago.

Although Changshan Island is only a national AAA-level scenic area, it actually surpasses many 5A-level scenic spots. The key is that the commercial tourism development here is not too intense, so not only is the scenery beautiful, but it lacks the heavy commercial atmosphere found in other attractions. At the same time, it is a paradise for anglers.

Main attractions on Big Changshan Island: Qixiang Garden (recommended), Sanyuan Palace, Beihai Bathing Beach (can skip), Golden Coast (recommended).

Main attractions on Little Changshan Island: Little Changshan Island Town Square and Beach (must-visit), Xiaoshuikou Scenic Area (must-visit), Golden Sand Beach (must-visit), Meteorite Belt.

Descriptions of some attractions:

Qixiang Garden: Located on Big Changshan Island, adjacent to Jinchan Port. The seawater here is clear, with numerous reefs and steep coastlines. The seawall connects to Jinchan Port, which is quite interesting. Take Bus No. 2 from Yuanyang Port to Cinema Station, then transfer to Bus No. 3 to Jinchan Port Station. Alternatively, a better option is to walk from Cinema Station to Jinchan Port/Qixiang Garden, a 2-kilometer journey. You can stroll leisurely while enjoying the scenery.

The long seawall has a poetic feel.

Facing the rocky cliff to the west, gazing upon the vast sea.

Xiaoshuikou Scenic Area: This is the most worthwhile attraction on Big and Little Changshan Islands. It is located at the very tip of Little Changshan Island, where the seawater is exceptionally clear and small islands are scattered like stars in the sky. It is very close to Little Changshan Island, at the narrowest point only about the width of a river apart, giving it a touch of the Aegean Sea. At the very end of the island, there is a rocky shoal. Beyond the shoal lies the deep sea, making you feel as if you've reached the end of the land, with a unique sense of 'the edge of the world.' Occasionally, fishermen roar by on their boats.

Transportation: Depart from Yuanyang Port → Bus No. 2 → Cinema Station → Bus No. 1 → Little Changshan Island Town Agricultural Trade Station → Bus No. 6 → Xiaoshuikou Scenic Area. Total travel time: about 90 minutes.

Rocky shoal (another kind of 'edge of the world')

The island lies right there (seemingly within reach)

Islands facing each other (as if surrounded by an Aegean love sea)

Golden Sand Beach: One of the most worthwhile attractions on Big and Little Changshan Islands. Located at the front end of Little Changshan Island, it is one of the few sandy beaches on these islands, nestled in a shallow valley. The seawater is also crystal clear. Because the sand glitters with golden specks under sunlight, as if there is gold in the sand, it is named Golden Sand Beach. Although Golden Sand Beach is also called a resort, it is very primitive. There are a few houses, but aside from that, there are almost no facilities. The toilet is even the squat type from the 1990s, and you can't even find the scenic spot on the map. In the distance of the beach, there is a fishery with a small island reef standing tall. If you're lucky enough to encounter fishermen delivering seafood to the resort, you can ask to go out to sea with them. However, the boats are small, so be very careful about safety.

Transportation: Depart from Yuanyang Port → Bus No. 2 → Cinema Station → Bus No. 1 → Xigou Station → Bus No. 6 → Golden Sand Beach Station (if the bus doesn't stop there, get off at the next stop and walk about 10 minutes). Travel time: about 80 minutes.

From Little Changshan Island Town (Little Changshan Island Town Agricultural Trade Station → Bus No. 6 → Golden Sand Beach Station (if the bus doesn't stop there, get off at the next stop and walk about 10 minutes). Travel time: about 15 minutes.

Panoramic view of Golden Sand Beach (Do you feel the urge to climb the distant island reef?)

Clear seawater shimmering with golden light

The best tour duration for Big and Little Changshan Islands is 3 days; 2 days is also possible. Walking slowly on the islands, you won't feel rushed and can still enjoy the entire scenery. Most major attractions can be reached directly by bus or by bus plus a short walk. Special tips: Avoid storms and typhoons when visiting the island. Due to the irregular coastline, it's hard to find sunrise viewpoints on the island. Remember to apply sunscreen. Many areas on the island are uninhabited, so be careful not to fall into the water.

Ultimate 2-day itinerary:

Day 1: Expected arrival time: before 13:00. Have a simple lunch while transferring buses in Big Changshan Island Town. Arrive at Xiaoshuikou Scenic Area at 14:30, explore for two hours, then take the 4:30 PM (or 5:00 PM; it's best to ask the local bus driver) bus back, or play until 6:00 PM and catch a ride with other tourists back to Little Changshan Island Town, or walk back. The walk is 7 km, about 2 hours. Walking leisurely along the way is also very pleasant.

Day 2: 8:00 AM – 12:00 PM: Sunbathing at Golden Sand Beach; 12:30 PM – 1:00 PM: Golden Coast; 1:40 PM – 2:20 PM: Qixiang Garden and Jinchan Island; 3:40 PM: Take the ferry off the island (remember to buy tickets in advance); 6:55 PM: Take the bullet train back to Dalian.

Leisurely 3-day itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive on the island before 13:00. Arrive at Golden Sand Beach at 14:30. Start walking back to Little Changshan Island Town at 18:00. The walk is 3 km, about 40 minutes. In the evening, take a stroll on the government square beach.

Day 2: 9:00 AM – 12:00 PM: Explore the meteorite array (or other attractions). 1:30 PM – 4:30 PM: Xiaoshuikou Scenic Area. Evening: Watch the sunset on the government square beach.

Day 3: 8:00 AM – 10:00 AM: Golden Coast. 11:00 AM – 12:00 PM: Qixiang Garden and Jinchan Island. 3:40 PM: Take the ferry off the island. 6:55 PM: Take the bullet train back to Dalian.

Note: The key to controlling your itinerary is your arrival and departure times. If you arrive earlier, you can extend the time for the main attractions accordingly.

From Dalian to Pikou Port: To reach the Changhai County archipelago, you need to take a ferry from Pikou Port. There are no corresponding transportation routes from Dalian city's port. According to locals, Dalian Port currently mainly handles domestic and international shipping. To take a boat to various islands of Dalian, you need to depart from Pikou Port. It is said that near the Bangchuidao scenic area, there are also tourist boats to some islands, but I haven't verified this (from safety and cost perspectives, departing from Pikou Port to the islands is the best option).

From Dalian to Pikou Port, the bullet train takes about 1 hour, with a fare of 31 yuan. There are many trains, with the earliest being the D7741 at 6:54 AM. So if you are departing from Dalian, you can start early in the morning.

Pikou Station is basically undeveloped. In September 2019, there was no bus from Pikou Station to Pikou Port. Of course, there are many taxis. Typically, you can share a taxi to Pikou Port for 10–15 yuan.

From Pikou Port to Changshan Island: The ferry ride from Pikou Port to Yuanyang Port on Changshan Island takes about 40 minutes, with a fare of 45 yuan. Standing at Pikou Port, you can see islands arrayed on the distant sea, looking like giant aircraft carriers moored, rising and falling with the waves.

There are many ferries from Pikou Port to Changshan Island, especially during peak season, with intervals of 1 hour or even 30 minutes. To save time, you can book tickets in advance through the Pikou Port WeChat public account. However, as of writing this guide, online ticket purchase was temporarily unavailable. There is a phone number on the public account, so you can call to inquire. If online purchase is not possible, you can arrive early at the port to buy tickets.

Generally, tickets to Changshan Island are relatively abundant, while tickets to other islands are fewer.

Online ticket purchase public account: Dalian Pulandian District Pikou Port Company.

From Changshan Island to Other Islands: To go to other islands from Changshan Island, you need to go to Jinchan Port on Changshan Island. However, I don't know exactly which islands you can reach directly. Last September, I really wanted to go to Haiyang Island, the farthest island in Changhai County. There is a ferry every two days, and the departure time depends on weather and tides, so you need to call in advance. Contact number for the ferry to Haiyang Island: 0411-89882493.

Island Transportation: Changshan Island is also the seat of Changhai County government. It comprises Big Changshan Island and Little Changshan Island. Big Changshan Island is closer to the mainland. The two islands are elongated in shape. The tail of Big Changshan Island is very close to Little Changshan Island, and they are connected by a cross-sea bridge.

The islands are not very large. From Yuanyang Port on Big Changshan Island to Xiaoshuikou Scenic Area at the tail of Little Changshan Island is about 27 km, which would take about 6–7 hours on foot. However, island transportation is very convenient, and there's no need for such long walks. You can take the bus; the fare is 2 yuan. There are also taxis on the island.

Accommodation and Dining on the Island: You don't need to worry too much about accommodation and dining on the island. Big and Little Changshan Islands are part of a county-level town, so living facilities are complete. Combined with convenient transportation and moderate tourism development, the cost of living is reasonable.

You can stay on either Big or Little Changshan Island. Cheap options start at 50–60 yuan per night, though conditions are basic. Of course, there are also hotels.

Best accommodation location: Little Changshan Island Town, because the main attractions are concentrated on Little Changshan Island, making it very convenient. Additionally, the town square of Little Changshan Island Town has a beach where you can watch the sunset and enjoy the sea breeze in the morning. There are a few small shops along the beach; in the evening, you can have a drink and enjoy yourself.