Travel Notes of Chenqiao, Zhouning — Staying at Fangxiang Guesthouse, Watching Sunrise, and Hiking
This year, due to the pandemic, I had stayed at home for several months without traveling. This time, I chose Chenqiao Village in Zhouning, relatively close to Fuzhou, as my first travel destination.
Chenqiao Village is an ancient village perched on a high mountain, still preserving early earth-built houses. I heard the air is very fresh, cool in summer and warm in winter—exactly what I longed for: to breathe fresh air and experience rural life. I spent three days and two nights in Chenqiao, staying at Fangxiang Guesthouse at the village entrance. You can find it by searching "Fangxiang Guesthouse" on Amap; it's easy to spot—right on the right-hand side as you enter the village. Staying in an old house in an ancient village gives a stronger feel. Their guesthouse has both wooden houses and brick houses, backed by green mountains, with a feng shui pond in front.
The landlady is very nice, always smiling, and has lived here for many years after marrying into the village. She also runs a farmhouse restaurant. To avoid hassle, I had all my meals there. I must mention that the landlady's cooking is excellent. Simple potatoes, stir-fried in a large wok stove, tasted amazing—absolutely perfect. Perhaps because they are grown high in the mountains, the potatoes from her farm are different from ordinary ones: soft, sticky, and they don't fall apart when patted, with a flavor I still can't forget.
Besides touring the ancient village, the scenic area in Chenqiao also offers hiking. Unlike typical mountains, the trail goes downward. At the bottom is Yuanyang Creek. If you get tired, you can call the landlady of Fangxiang Guesthouse to ask if there's a car to pick you up. I did call for a ride because I hadn't exercised for a long time and felt quite exhausted after two-plus hours of hiking; I couldn't climb back up.
I also watched the sunrise at Shimading, the highest peak of Chenqiao at 1,040 meters. I asked the landlady; usually in summer, sunrise is at 5:10 AM. I got up at around 4:30, washed up, and walked to Shimading in just over ten minutes. I quietly watched the sky gradually turn from dimness to red, and a small red ball emerged from behind the mountain, until it fully rose, radiating golden light.
The sunrise was truly beautiful. I highly recommend everyone to pick a good day to experience the splendid scene described as "after sunrise, mist and dew remain; green pines seem bathed in ointment." The three days I was there were all sunny, so I didn't see the heavy fog and drifting clouds that other visitors mentioned. But even thinking about it, that scenery must be wonderful too. I hope to visit Chenqiao again another time.
1. It's best to book a room in advance—call the landlady of Fangxiang Guesthouse. You can also pre-order meals. They provide free toothbrushes and slippers; new towels need to be purchased.
2. It's advisable to bring a long-sleeved shirt. Fuzhou is scorching hot, but Chenqiao is cool at night. Watching the sunrise early in the morning also requires an extra layer.
3. Self-driving travelers can feel reassured. The road to Chenqiao Village is easy to drive on—wide asphalt roads.
