Coastal Journey: A Backpacker's Hitchhiking and Train Travel Guide (Nanjing Tulou, Xiapu Beach, Yushan Island, Taimu Mountain, Dongji Island...)

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How to spend your annual leave? Take a train to see the sea.

DAY1: (8/22, Sat) Nanning to Shantou, eat braised goose in Chenghai.

DAY2: (8/23, Sun) Shantou via Zhangzhou to Nanjing County, Yunshuiyao Tulou.

DAY3: (8/24, Mon) Tianluokeng to see the 'Four Dishes and One Soup', rest in Putian.

DAY4: (8/25, Tue) Putian via Xiapu, stop at Sansha Town, watch sunset at Dongbi Village and Xiaohao Beach.

DAY5: (8/26, Wed) Take a boat from Sansha Ancient Town Pier to Yushan Island, then from Yujing Pier to Taimu Mountain, explore Hulu Cave, eat Fuding delicacies.

DAY6: (8/27, Thu) Fuding to Ningbo, meet friends and head to Zhoushan.

DAY7: (8/28, Fri) Go to Dongji Island, pass through Miaozihu to Dongfushan Island, stay overnight on Qingbang Island.

DAY8: (8/29, Sat) Watch sunrise on Qingbang Island, stroll around Miaozihu, return to Shenjiamen.

DAY9: (8/30, Sun) Ningbo Tianyi Pavilion, return to Nanning.

First stop, Chenghai.

Checked in at the documentary-famous #Ririxiang#. The store is huge, with awards and celebrity photos on the wall at the entrance.

For a single diner, you can choose a combo of three or four items, very affordable. I went for meat, sausage, head, and liver. Highly recommend the powder liver and goose meat—the foie gras is rich and delicate, the goose has a strong braised flavor; the goose intestine was tough and chewy, not well-cooked. Dipping sauces are braising juice and white vinegar to cut the grease. Rumor has it the signature item is a three-year-old old goose head, starting at 680 RMB, must be pre-ordered. If any big spender comes to eat, please take me along.

I've fallen for many Internet-famous traps, but this one is worth recommending!

Shantou snacks: sweet tofu pudding, ginkgo soup, wumi guo (rice cakes).

Chaoshan cold dishes: fish rice, thin-shell clams, raw marinated seafood.

After weighing options, I took the train from Shantou via Chaoshan Station and Zhangzhou Station to Nanjing County.

Exit Nanjing Station, turn right 50 meters, and you'll find Bus No. 6 directly to Yunshuiyao Scenic Area, about two hours.

Departure times as below:

Yunshuiyao Scenic Area is one stop after Tulou Service Center. You can take Bus No. 6 here first. Bus fare to Service Center is 14 RMB, to Yunshuiyao 15 RMB; from Service Center to Yunshuiyao by scenic shuttle is 15 RMB. Online ticket price is 82.3 RMB but can only be used two hours after booking, so order in advance. I stayed near Hegui Tower at the entrance, very convenient close to the sights.

The most beautiful tulou in Nanjing, Huaiyuan Tower, is deep inside Yunshuiyao. The guesthouse owner suggested walking from Huaiyuan Tower along the river to the entrance to avoid backtracking.

Visitors are not allowed upstairs, but villagers can take you up for 5 RMB to take photos.

Villagers sell local glutinous rice cakes and other snacks—simple or fancy, your choice.

Take Bus No. 6 to the Service Center for 4 RMB.

Published fares.

Scenic shuttle, 15 RMB.

Shuttle operating hours.

The distant view of Tianluokeng is unique, but the individual buildings are not huge; for interior views of tulou, go to Huaiyuan Tower in Yunshuiyao. Overall, the black tiles and yellow mud walls look austere, but inside it's full of peaceful living atmosphere.

The paths in the scenic area are like this—wear flat shoes.

Return also by Bus No. 6, then transfer to the county bus station to catch the train.

Originally planned to go to Meizhou Island in Putian, but the weather didn't cooperate—heavy rain in Putian. Rest day in Putian.

Wolfberry pork offal soup, pig trotter jelly, Putian braised meat, fish balls and fish slices, four-fruit soup...

From Xiapu Station, take a direct bus to Sansha Town, fare 18 RMB, passing Xiaohao Beach and Dongbi Village.

Transfer to town bus to reach Ancient Town Pier.

Plans always change—I rushed to the pier in the morning and missed the last boat to Yushan Island at noon. The pier uncle suggested staying in town first, watching sunset at Dongbi and Xiaohao in the evening, and going to the island tomorrow morning.

It's said to be one of the most beautiful sunset photography spots by the sea! Town buses are convenient—5 RMB to Dongbi Village or Xiaohao photography spot. At 4 PM, I arrived at Xiaohao photography spot entrance, but the light wasn't perfect. A local photography veteran suggested 5:30 PM is the best time; I could check Dongbi first.

Dongbi Village is built halfway up a mountain by the sea; the terrain makes the houses scattered in a beautiful way, looking up from below gives a special aesthetic.

At 5 PM, I headed to Xiaohao photography spot. I thought it was by the sea, but it turned out to be on the mountaintop. I was wearing flip-flops and a beach dress, and started a half-hour hike. Unfortunately, the sun was hidden behind a big cloud; I waited another half hour, the sky darkened, and photography veterans left one by one. I followed suit—the beautiful light and shadow photos I saw online were not for me.

Ferry from Ancient Town Pier to Yushan Island runs twice daily: 9:30 AM and 12:00 PM; from Yushan to Sansha: 7:00 AM and 3:00 PM.

Island ferry schedule.

Entrance fee including scenic shuttle is 76 RMB. The scenic area is high up, so it's better to take the shuttle up.

Main attractions: Big Tianhu and Little Tianhu lakes. Park, then hike about half an hour to the top. Follow the path. There's basically no shade along the way, so bring sun protection.

The white building is the waiting point for the scenic shuttle back to the parking lot, or you can take a bus from Aocao Village to circle the island.

Aocao Village has a bus at 12:00 PM. If you catch it, you can enjoy sea views along the coastal road and also catch the 1:20 PM ferry to Yujing Pier. Bus fare 15 RMB.

Today there were many tourists, so the pier added a 1:00 PM ferry, which I caught. Ticket 50 RMB.

The bus to Taimu Mountain Bus Station is right at Yujing Pier, very convenient.

Actually, this bus goes to Taimu Mountain Bus Station; tell the driver, and you'll be dropped off at an intersection. Walk about 200 meters to the Taimu Mountain Visitor Center under the viaduct. Entrance plus scenic shuttle totals 140 RMB.

In all my years of traveling, I've never been so disheveled!

I missed the Qixi Festival event at Taimu Mountain. The 2:30 PM shuttle had only one passenger—me! After rain, the temperature was nice. I thought I was fit and agile, and that crawling through caves would be easy. But reality slapped me hard!

Dozens of caves over about 1500 meters, narrow and dark. Several 'One Line Sky' passages only 20-30 cm wide, requiring sideways shuffling. Sometimes crawling, sometimes ducking, using all four limbs—no time to worry about moss on rocks or puddles. No one around, sometimes pitch dark—my imagination ran wild: two boulders closing in and crushing me, a falling rock smashing me, a cave-in flattening me... When I finally saw light and found the path, I felt so lucky to be alive. Why would anyone want to crawl through caves?

Taimu Mountain is highly recommended! Beautiful scenery, convenient transportation, complete facilities, excellent experience. Welcome to the 'Fairy Capital on the Sea'—Taimu Mountain!!!

Wait for the bus to Fuding at Taimu Mountain Bus Station. The scenic area to the station is not far; you can walk. Buses run frequently, half-hour ride, 15 RMB to Fuding South Station.

The meat swallow soup here is much better than in Fuzhou.

The 12 RMB seafood liuliu noodles were a feast: fresh shrimp, crab, mussels, clams, razor clams, tofu fish, with loofah broth—sweet and delicious! Only regret: my stomach was too small after eating meat slices, meat swallow, and reverse-sugar taro.

On the right are extra-large oil nai plums, three per pound—very tasty.

Local snack map. Fuding is a great place; I'll definitely come back to try all the shops.

From Fuding via Wenzhou to Ningbo, met friends at Ningbo Station.

Take the bus to Zhoushan from Ningbo South Bus Station. Zhoushan's old town is in Dinghai; the pier to Dongji Island is in Shenjiamen. Pay attention when buying tickets. We stayed in Dinghai district, thought we could stroll around, but there wasn't much special. I recommend staying near Shenjiamen for seafood.

From Shenjiamen to Dongji Island (Miaozihu), central cabin fare 130 RMB; island tickets can be pre-booked. Return tickets from Miaozihu to Shenjiamen are sold on the same day. Inter-island tickets between Miaozihu, Dongfushan, and Qingbang can be bought on the boat or at the pier 30 minutes before departure.

Sailing info as per the official WeChat account.

We planned to start from the farthest island, Dongfushan. Dongfushan Island is the easternmost island of the Dongji Archipelago in the East China Sea. Circumnavigation takes 3-4 hours, adjust according to stamina.

Caught the last boat at 16:00 to Qingbang Island for accommodation, watching sunset from the boat.

Prices on Qingbang Island are acceptable, about double those on the mainland. The local mussels (also called green-lipped mussels) are especially plump and delicious; other seafood is not particularly special.

Qingbang Island is the quietest of the three Dongji islands. Many stone houses are abandoned or empty, a bit desolate. I missed the best viewing season for 'fluorescent sea'; at night, I could barely see a faint trace with my bare eyes.

The guesthouse owner suggested waking up at 4:30 AM for sunrise, the best time between 4:30 and 5:30 AM.

Checkout time on Qingbang Island is 9:00 AM; other tourists arrive then. At 9:00 AM, the first boat from Qingbang to Miaozihu departs. Qingbang is close to Miaozihu, a 20-minute ride.

Miaozihu is the largest island in the Dongji group, the most bustling and lively. It became famous after the movie 'The Continent' was shot here. A driver said the island loop is about 5 km; due to heat and sun, we took a cart. Basic ticket 88 RMB for a half-hour loop.

The driver said two houses destroyed for the movie are being rebuilt.

The safety uncle was so relaxed, lying under a sun umbrella, staring at the sea.

Statue of Caigongbo, said to be the first person to land on the island.

On the island, it's just walking around, viewing the sea and harbor from high points. It's all about experience, not about worth or not.

Scan this QR code for AR remote view of Dongji.

Took the last boat back to Shenjiamen.

The bus ride from Shenjiamen to Ningbo takes about two hours, leaving time to visit Tianyi Pavilion.

This trip ended smoothly!

Travel Notes Directory

1. DAY1: (8/22, Sat) Nanning to Shantou, eat braised goose in Chenghai.

2. DAY2: (8/23, Sun) Shantou via Zhangzhou to Nanjing County, Yunshuiyao Tulou.

3. DAY3: (8/24, Mon) Tianluokeng to see 'Four Dishes and One Soup', rest in Putian.

4. DAY4: (8/25, Tue) Putian via Xiapu, stop at Sansha Town, watch sunset at Dongbi Village and Xiaohao Beach.

5. DAY5: (8/26, Wed) Take boat from Sansha Ancient Town Pier to Yushan Island, then from Yujing Pier to Taimu Mountain, explore Hulu Cave, eat Fuding delicacies.

6. DAY6: (8/27, Thu) Fuding to Ningbo, meet friends and head to Zhoushan.

7. DAY7: (8/28, Fri) Go to Dongji Island, pass through Miaozihu to Dongfushan Island, stay overnight on Qingbang Island.

8. DAY8: (8/29, Sat) Watch sunrise on Qingbang Island, stroll around Miaozihu, return to Shenjiamen.

9. DAY9: (8/30, Sun) Ningbo Tianyi Pavilion, return to Nanning.

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