8-Day Self-Drive Tour: Wuhan - Wuyishan - Xiapu - Lishui - Tunxi - Wuhan
Living in Wuhan, the thoroughfare to nine provinces, it's very convenient to travel across the country. From 2015 to 2020, every year I went on self-drive or free travel abroad with a group of friends. As I was always the organizer, there was a lot of work before each trip: making itineraries, arranging schedules, booking rooms online, etc. (Since we usually traveled during National Day Golden Week or the Spring Festival), and because there were quite a few people, typically three or four cars with over a dozen people, I always arranged the itinerary and booked rooms in advance so that we wouldn't have to spend time looking for accommodations upon arrival.
Now that I have some free time, I want to reminisce about some past trips, keep memories for myself, and also provide a reference for friends who need it. Let's start this timeline with this year's trip to Fujian and Zhejiang.
This year is a special one. At the beginning of the year, the COVID-19 outbreak began in Wuhan. As a native of Wuhan, I was confined at home for nearly three months. During that time, I kept thinking about how to travel and enjoy life after the epidemic ended, cherishing life and loving it. I planned a 20-plus-day Tibet loop (entering via Sichuan and exiting via Qinghai), a 30-day loop of northern and southern Xinjiang, and a 7-8 day small loop of Fujian (Wuyishan, Xiapu) and Zhejiang (Lishui, Yunhe). After Wuhan was unsealed in April, I worried about prejudice and rejection from people in other places, so I didn't complete the Fujian-Zhejiang trip until September. Tibet and Xinjiang will have to wait for next year or the year after (those two routes are too long; I plan to go only with my wife).
Chapter 1: Relaxing Tour of Fujian and Zhejiang
September 19, 2020
The first day was mainly on the road. The distance from Wuhan to Wuyishan was about 690 km, reachable in about 8.5 hours. Since our group consisted of three cars and twelve people, with an average age of 50+, we generally didn't rush; safety was paramount. Considering that the epidemic had suppressed people's consumption and travel this year, I felt that National Day would be crowded, traffic jams were inevitable, and hotel prices would triple. So we set out before the National Day Golden Week, and it proved to be a wise decision. There were very few cars on the expressway before the holiday, and traffic was smooth. We departed from Wuhan at 9 AM and arrived at Wuyishan before 6 PM, where we had booked a guesthouse for two nights.
September 20, 2020
On the second day, we planned to visit Xiamei Ancient Village and take a bamboo raft ride on the Nine-Bend Stream. The main focus of this trip was Xiapu in Fujian; Wuyishan was just a stopover. Since most of the group didn't want to climb mountains, we chose relaxing scenic spots. Moreover, the weather was bad—it drizzled on and off—so we didn't climb Wuyi Mountain. Honestly, for those who prefer a relaxing trip, not climbing Wuyi Mountain and visiting these two spots is a great choice.
September 21, 2020
On the third day, we drove from Wuyishan to Xiapu Beiqi, about 300 km and 4 hours away. Since it wasn't far, we specially arranged to visit three spots along the way: Nanwan Oracle Bone Script, Shajiang S-Bend, and Dajing Beach. Time-wise, visiting those three spots was no problem. However, the only regret of this trip was the terrible weather—overcast and drizzly. We had planned to finish the three spots and arrive at our accommodation by sunset to see the beautiful Beiqi evening glow, but the weather didn't cooperate, and we didn't know the tide times. When we arrived at Nanwan Oracle Bone Script scenic area, it was only a little past 2 PM. To see the beautiful mudflat scenery, we needed to wait until around 5 PM when the tide went out. Waiting three hours was unrealistic. This place isn't a formal scenic area. Following the navigation, we saw a small gravel path on the right, but we dared not drive down. After asking a friend to check, it was confirmed that cars couldn't go down. So we parked three cars by the roadside and walked down. There was a small house with two people selling tickets for 30 yuan each. Friends who want to visit later should come around low tide, otherwise you won't see anything. From the pictures on display, with good timing and good weather, the photos are really beautiful. To be fair, serious photography enthusiasts will find it worth a visit.
Since we couldn't see anything here, we decided to go to the next spot, Shajiang S-Bend. It was only 23 km from Nanwan to Shajiang, a half-hour drive. But I must tell friends planning to go: driving there is very difficult. If there are many cars and people, it's best to park in the small town a kilometer away and walk. Otherwise, if traffic jams occur, reversing out of the narrow alleys with steep slopes is a technical challenge. When we went, it wasn't peak season, but we still encountered a short traffic jam. Following the navigation, we entered a small alley, turned right up a steep slope, and faced a school. We thought we could park at the school for a fee, but they didn't allow it. We were directed to a small yard next to the school. Driving into the campus required navigating narrow alleys, which was tough for inexperienced drivers. After the curved alley, there was a small yard that could hold about 5-6 cars. If you enter first, remember to turn around so your car faces outward for easy exit. We entered with three cars, and there was already one car inside. We slowly turned around one by one. At that moment, a Guangdong-plated SUV came in behind me, and two elderly people with white hair got out. The older man first got out and directed the auntie to park. Seeing our Wuhan license plate, he asked, 'You're from Wuhan?' I said yes. He said we were half-hometown fellows—they were from Xiangyang, and their son worked in Guangzhou; they were staying with him. I asked his age, and he said 75; the auntie was 73. I couldn't help giving a thumbs up, admiring these two elderly people. At over 70, they still drove out for travel. The auntie drove steadily and skillfully through those narrow alleys in a big SUV. They were in good spirits, and the uncle carried a DSLR camera. They are truly worthy of admiration and a role model for me. Anyway, back to Shajiang S-Bend. After parking, we walked a short path, bought tickets at 20 yuan per person, then entered an abandoned or unfinished building and went up to the rooftop to watch. It was after 4 PM when we arrived. The tide had receded, and most of the bamboo poles for drying seaweed emerged from the water. It looked beautiful. There were many photography enthusiasts here, most with tripods and big lenses, waiting for a boat to enter the bay around 4 PM. We waited with them. When they heard we were from Wuhan, they said we Wuhanese had a tough year, that we were heroes of the nation and the world. Hearing that moved me deeply. It was enough to be understood and not discriminated against; we didn't need the praise of being heroes. We were just ordinary Wuhanese. At that time, millions of people were like that. Nothing special.
Okay, enough talk. Here are some photos.
September 22, 2020
On the fourth day, we visited Beiqi, Dongbi, Xiaohao, and Sansha. The distance from Beiqi to Sansha town is 35 km, passing Xiaohao Beach and Dongbi Village. The mudflats of Xiapu are completely different from the usual seaside scenery. As the old saying goes, 'Each place has its own way of supporting its people.' The unique geography creates special mudflats and supports a thriving seafood farming industry. Those who rely on the mountains live off the mountains; those who rely on the sea live off the sea.
Today was cloudy, so we didn't get up early to see the beautiful Beiqi sunrise—a regret, but something for next time. Locals told me the best months are April and May, when kelp is farmed. Friends planning to go should aim for a good season. Xiapu's beauty won't disappoint.
Oh, I almost forgot to share food tips. Before the trip, I read online that seafood at Beiqi beach is good and cheap. Objectively, it's relatively cheap, but not much cheaper than seafood prices in Wuhan. However, it's very fresh if you catch boats just returning. For tasty and affordable meals, I recommend driving to the town. Xiapu town is lively with many food options and reasonable restaurant prices. Our host recommended a restaurant in town, and we had both dinners there. It's only a half-hour drive from Beiqi to town, very convenient.
September 23, 2020
On the fifth day, we departed from Beiqi, Xiapu to Guyan Huaxiang scenic area in Lishui, Zhejiang, about 300 km and 4 hours. Originally, we planned to stop at Xiandu scenic area midway and arrive at Guyan Huaxiang before dinner. But since it was light to moderate rain all day, we canceled Xiandu and went directly to Guyan Huaxiang.
The Ou River divides the scenic area into two parts: 'Guyan' is Yantou Village on the north bank, and 'Huaxiang' refers to Dagangtou Town on the south bank, where the town government is located. They face each other across the river with no bridge, only painted boats shuttling between. Visitors usually go to Dagangtou first, then take a boat to Yantou Village. Both sides have visitor centers; tickets can be bought separately, but a combo ticket is slightly cheaper.
The main attraction in Dagangtou is a street with red lanterns along the river—Jiangbin Ancient Street. Although renovated and not very ancient, it's still picturesque. On both sides of the street are mostly art studios or shops related to painting. You can browse for unique trinkets in the literary boutiques or send a postcard to family and friends from the His and Her Love Post Office.
I had booked a guesthouse called 'Xijian Louge' (Stream Pavilion) online in Huaxiang. They had six rooms, and we were six families, so we basically took over the whole place. The young couple who ran it were very enthusiastic and attentive. We had lunch and dinner there that day, and the landlord cooked personally with great skill and care. Breakfast the next day was also there, and it was very, very abundant. Having traveled to many places, this breakfast was the best and most sumptuous (partly because we had twelve people). Through chatting with the owner, I could tell he was meticulous and attentive. I sincerely recommend this guesthouse: delicious food, quiet environment, and you can even get free admission. The guesthouse's door opens directly into the scenic area, so you can enter for free. The money saved on tickets can be spent on meals there. That's a joke, but the accommodation and food are truly good and worth recommending.
The weather was bad, but it didn't affect the scenery of misty rain Jiangnan, nor our good mood.
September 24, 2020
On the sixth day, we drove 40 km from Guyan Huaxiang to Yunhe Terrace Fields, a 40-minute drive.
Yunhe Terrace Fields is one of the largest terrace clusters in East China. Besides the layered terraces and sea of clouds at sunrise, you can see beautiful water scenery during the plowing and sowing season in May-June, and the golden rice in October and snowy winter landscapes are also captivating, attracting many photography enthusiasts.
The entire terrace area is huge, divided into two main sections: Baiyingu and Jiuqu Yunhuan. Shortly after the ticket booth, there are two roads: left to Baiyingu, right to Jiuqu Yunhuan. Jiuqu Yunhuan is smaller, with two viewing platforms: 'Rise of Cloud Sea' and 'Tianlai Yunhe'. 'Rise of Cloud Sea' is good for sunrise and cloud views. However, Baiyingu on the opposite side is more favored by tourists and photographers.
Baiyingu was once a silver mine. Besides terraces, there are some remnants of mining. Qixingdun (altitude about 1100 m) offers the most spectacular and open view of Yunhe terraces. On clear days, many people wait here for sunrise. Usually, people visit Jiuqu Yunhuan in the afternoon, then go to Baiyingu and stay overnight at a farmhouse near Qixingdun (Meizhu Village) to catch the sunrise the next morning. Since there is little light pollution, the starry sky at night is also beautiful.
Descending from the left hiking trail at Qixingdun, you'll pass waterfalls along the way. In about an hour, you reach Kenggen Stone Village at the foot. The village has some history, with old houses built of yellow stone, a few scattered grocery stores, and little commercialization. At the village entrance, there is an old spring well left from silver mining, and a Silver Official Bridge over the village stream, also built during mining.
The above is the official description. Because of the rain, we didn't see the most beautiful scenery. We even drove on a rough road to Qixingdun only to see a vast fog. Fortunately, when we visited Jiuqu Yunhuan, the rain stopped, and Heaven gave us some face, allowing us to see a different view of the terraces.
September 25, 2020
On the seventh day, we drove from Yunhe to Tunxi Old Street in Huangshan. If you haven't been to Huangshan and want to visit, you can arrange two to three days to explore it. Huangshan scenery is indeed beautiful and worth seeing. Nearby attractions like Hongcun and Xin'an River Gallery can also be visited. Since we had been to these places before, we only used Tunxi Old Street as a rest stop on the way back to Wuhan. However, you can find a good restaurant on Tunxi Old Street to enjoy authentic Huizhou cuisine.
September 26, 2020
On the eighth day, we returned from Huangshan to Wuhan. The distance from Tunxi Old Street to Wuhan is 500 km, reaching home in about 6.5 to 7 hours. That concludes the entire trip.
