Solo or Together, Each Has Its Merits – An Autumn Trip Through Shanghai, Zhejiang, and Fujian

Summary: At Yandangshan Train Station, buses go directly to the visitor center; Jiaxing High-Speed Rail Station is far from the city center, so I chose a closer, free-attraction site; Haining is moderately close to must-see spots, but buses stop early; Shaoxing High-Speed Rail Station is also far, but fortunately the main attractions (Lu Xun's Hometown) are concentrated, so just leave ample time for distant sites; When buying ferry tickets for Shengsi Islands, be careful—the pier names online look similar, so first confirm your location before purchasing; I had to cancel ferry tickets twice; it's fairly close to Shanghai; Linhai has many one-way streets, and buses are mostly circular routes, making stops hard to find, but Didi for main attractions isn't expensive… Since accommodation and tickets are the biggest expenses, to save money and visit more, I seldom took taxis. I chose hostels for two places; if I'd switched to hotels in the same area, the trip might have cost an extra two to three thousand.

D1 (2020.10.9) Beijing – Shanghai by train

Off again, and I arranged to share a meal with a beautiful lady, strolling the Bund. Having someone to take photos and spend the day with made me so happy!

D2 (2020.10.10) Shanghai – Shanghai Museum, the Bund

Arrived by train early in the morning, and the underground pedestrian passage totally confused me. I took a taxi to the hostel I had booked. After charging my devices, I walked to the nearby Shanghai Museum. When I arrived, it had just opened, so there weren't many visitors.

Due to the pandemic, the elevators were taped off with quarantine lines.

Many exhibits were quite cute, but the lights were too dim—I wasn't used to it.

In the painting and calligraphy hall, the lighting was designed to brighten only when a visitor approached. That's probably necessary for preserving ancient works. Once at the Beijing Art Museum, I saw a Chinese painting only a hundred years old that had cracked.

The author in the picture was only 16—a genius like Wang Ximeng!

These were the general knowledge panels in each hall; there were also English versions. Many museums don't have that—commendable.

In the "Seals" hall, it took me a while to understand the function of the slanted display devices. I'm pretty dense sometimes.

The general knowledge panels were quite good too.

Some vessel shapes were rare—perhaps because they weren't widely circulated?

This was labeled a "drum stand"; fortunately, the illustration showed its use.

I toured the museum until 1 PM, then returned to the area near the hostel, which was full of eateries. I rested and waited for my travel companion.

Back at the hostel, I showered and sorted my things. My companion flew over, charged her devices, and we discussed where to go later. We went to a Shanghai restaurant near East Nanjing Road.

Don't these legs look two meters long?

Following an old friend's footsteps, I also got on the open-top sightseeing bus for a night tour of Shanghai. Luckily, my companion listened to me and brought a jacket—if she had worn short sleeves as she initially planned, she'd have been freezing at night!

Time flies; it's been twenty years in a blink.

D3 (2020.10.11) Shanghai – Wukang Road, Sinan Road, Zhou Enlai's Former Residence, Tianzifang, near Jing'an Temple

Exhausted from yesterday, I crashed as soon as I got back to the hostel. I woke up very early today, got ready, waited for my companion to get up, then she checked out, stored her luggage, and we went to a small eatery across the street for breakfast. I ordered "scallion oil noodles" – after all, Huang Lei always promotes them on shows. The photos on the wall with the owner might be local celebrities, probably TV hosts, but I didn't recognize any. We took the subway to Wukang Road, which my companion wanted to visit.

We came across a phone booth and took pictures for a while. My companion's phone camera takes better photos than mine.

The term "petty bourgeoisie" originated in Shanghai.

Then we took a bus to Sinan Road to visit "Zhou Enlai's Former Residence."

At the residence, we met a pretty girl, and my companion helped her take photos. When we ran into her again at the exit, we exchanged photography tips. My companion said only "pale skin, beautiful face, long legs" types photograph best. The girl and her companion were heading to "A Niang Noodle House," mentioned in guides. But my companion doesn't like noodles, so we dropped the idea.

Given that my companion wasn't used to Shanghai's "heavy oil and dark sauce" cuisine, we went to "Miss Fu's in Chengdu" and cleaned our plates.

That's the Glass Museum.

Tired from walking, we lost interest in taking photos. After the meal, we decided to sit nearby, so we went to Tianzifang.

They served coffee in a plastic cup even though it wasn't takeaway. Why didn't they ask me first!

As a Beijinger, I've never heard of "spicy quick-fried tripe."

The picture above is the famous "scallion pancake" that went viral on social media—quite a long queue. The picture below looks like a wedding.

St. Ignatius Cathedral of Xujiahui. It's only open to believers, so I could only take exterior photos. A Shanghai guy I met on a previous trip warmly hosted me—I was so moved. It was authentic local cuisine. After dinner, a band happened to be playing by the roadside, livestreaming. Awesome!

D4 (2020.10.11) Shanghai – Disneyland

Since I was in Shanghai, I had to come—I've watched their movies since childhood, so it's a small contribution. Had wonton soup for breakfast, then set off! Subway Line 11 goes directly.

Didn't expect to do physical labor.

"Coco" was a great movie, but unfortunately too new—its area was really small.

The picture shows a highly recommended ride: "Soaring Over the Horizon." Queue time was 75 minutes. By the time I got out, it had become 90 minutes.

The shooting game in the picture was fun—it took me a while to figure out the pattern, but then I got the hang of it. When I came out, I saw the roller coasters but had no desire to queue. I sat at the entrance of a big restaurant, watching from a distance; there seemed to be a Captain America performance, but I was too lazy to go down. To go to Disney, you need to be either young or physically fit—I'm neither.

After resting a while, I wanted to see the Star Wars movie but was told it required an extra fee. Then I walked to Marvel Headquarters—not many people there. Then I waited for the light and fireworks show.

After 6 PM, it got a bit chilly. I put on my jacket, squatted in my spot, and even took a short nap. Watching those girls sit on the stone floor for hours—they're still young! The light and fireworks show was really impressive, featuring several famous Disney movies: "Finding Nemo," "The Lion King," "Frozen," "The Little Mermaid," and ending with elements from "Cars" and "Toy Story." How can independent travel be more tiring than a group tour? Twenty thousand steps a day—amazingly, I got a seat on the subway back to the hostel. Exhausted, I went to bed early.

D5 (2020.10.12) Shanghai – Duolun Road, Tian'ai Road, Shikumen Museum, Bank Museum

I planned to sleep half the day, but woke up at 6 AM. I dawdled until after 8, then set off. The hostel my companion booked was really convenient—a street full of small restaurants. As a solo traveler, I often eat simple meals and can try a different place each day. After breakfast, my first stop was Duolun Road…

It's truly a cultural street!

In the picture, someone is taking a Republic-era themed photo; the photographer is adjusting the model's pose.

All cultural celebrities—I hope some culture rubs off on me. Following a group, I guessed they were from a party school—turned out to be correct!

The second floor features the deeds of revolutionaries who used pens as weapons.

The picture shows a former residence of Bai Chongxi, now a hospital—I didn't dare disturb. It's said that Lu Xun spent his last ten years in Hongkou, so there's a Lu Xun Memorial nearby.

The famous "Love Post Office" was here; I saw an uncle instructing two girls on how to pose, so I couldn't get a clear shot without people.

After walking a while, I found the gate of the "Lu Xun Memorial" closed. On the way back, I accidentally came across "Tian'ai Fang." This was my first time using a selfie stick (banned at Disney). Seeing two aunties approaching, I quickly gave up my spot. While resting on a bench, I saw the aunties change into another dress and continue taking photos. You should always have a love for beauty!

Earlier, I discussed with a Shanghai friend whether TV dramas about Shanghai are realistic. I've watched several recently: "My Tale," "Nothing But Thirty," older ones like "The Sticky Rice Tape" and "Ode to Joy," and several Sun Li series. My friend replied: "Only 'Debt of Sin,' 'Shanghai Family,' and the movie 'Shanghai Fever' are relatively authentic." Lucky to be old enough to have seen them all. So I visited the "Shikumen Museum" to learn a bit.

The décor of the Shikumen was definitely a blend of Chinese and Western styles—both an Eight Immortals table and Rococo-style leather sofas!

Not far away was the fourth stop: the Bank Museum. Reminds me of works like "Sunrise," where the villains are always bankers.

I kept walking and didn't have lunch until almost 4 PM. Nearly 20,000 steps again, so I returned to the hostel early to rest.

D6 (2020.10.13) Shanghai – Wood Culture Museum, Qibao Old Street, Qibao Temple, Vanke Plaza

Had a rice ball for breakfast—kudos—and set off for a farther attraction.

I bought an annual travel pass on Taobao. Although these are niche attractions, visiting three pays for the pass. The Shikumen Museum counted as one, and the Wood Culture Museum in Baoshan was another. I even taught an uncle how to use WeChat for audio guides.

The picture even marked the best photography spots—so cute. Trees are all around us, but I've never studied them carefully. Today I made up for it.

I remember when "The Story of Minglan" aired, it specifically introduced the "armchair."

China's mortise and tenon structure is truly amazing.

At first, I was the only one in the exhibition hall. Midway, a woman in red came with several people, speaking loudly. The hall was empty with echo, so it was quite jarring.

The natural grain in the picture needs no carving!

In the afternoon, a companion from my Southeast Asia trip invited me to tour Qibao Old Street and eat snacks.

After visiting Qibao Temple and Qibao Teaching Temple, we went to the fourth stop: Vanke Plaza. A girls' gathering means tea, movies, and hotpot. I sheepishly admit I'd never had Heytea before—maybe because I heard the queue in Beijing is too long.

D7 (2020.10.15) Shanghai – Zhujiajiao Ancient Town

Zhujiajiao is accessible by subway, very convenient.

The pork zongzi in the picture—I always thought it was unique to Jiaxing.

Today was really a relaxing trip! It drizzled occasionally, and with a local companion, we wandered around the ancient town, ate when tired, drank when thirsty, and watched tourists rent Hanfu for photos—so pleasant. A perfect end to the Shanghai leg!

D8 (2020.10.16) Shanghai – Jiaxing – Meihuazhou Scenic Area

After finishing Shanghai, I headed straight to Jiaxing. Jiaxing South Station is quite suburban. Following the advice of the hostel lady, I went to a nearby attraction: Meihuazhou. This time the annual pass fully paid off! Rainy weather was actually quite suitable for strolling through ancient Jiangnan streets.

Kudos to the restroom.

Now scenic spots all have a dragon throne for photos! Picture 3 finally shows the much-heard-of unmanned convenience store—though no aunties cooling off inside. I wanted to buy the peach gum, but carrying it was too troublesome. A thousand-year-old ginkgo tree: couldn't see the one in Xi'an, but this Jiaxing one is fine!

Finally saw the unmanned supermarket.

The picture is said to be a collection of props from film sets; team-building activities are often held here.

The nap room in the picture above was a bit pricey! The big wontons were quite substantial.

The picture shows another thousand-year-old ginkgo tree. It seems my mom was right—ginkgo trees always come in male-female pairs. Across the river, there was an agricultural demonstration base; picking must be nice during harvest season.

I didn't stay long in the agricultural base—fortunately, because the rain got heavy. Walking along the river, water and bamboo suddenly made me miss Liuzhou. I wrapped up in a thick coat and took shelter at the stage, eating sunflower seeds while a TV played details about Meihuazhou. Calling friends together here on weekends would be quite nice.

A pretty girl was livestreaming, with a photographer taking pictures of her. The sutra-copying area was empty.

D9 (2020.10.17) Jiaxing – Haining – Tide-Viewing Park, Yanguan Scenic Area

A thrilling moment this morning: while packing for the train, a live creature appeared. If it had been in the middle of the night… makes my skin crawl. I fled quickly! I wake up early every day, so it was easy to catch the early train.

There were quite a few tourists; luckily I made it, because the tide comes only once, with the backwash about an hour later. I didn't know if there would be one today.

It looked like a team-building event; the music was probably from "Sisters Who Make Waves."

This is a celebrity's tide-viewing itinerary.

During the National Day holiday, my friends' photos showed plenty of people. The fee for the Tide-Viewing Tower was listed, but when I tried to examine a (replica) stone inscription closely, it was covered in mud spots from yesterday's rain, and staff's electric scooters were parked inside. I could only shrug…

Those who don't want to get up early can stay inside the scenic area and just step out when the tide is about to come, and they can also see the night tide. The official WeChat account posts daily tide times; my online research wasn't accurate enough. Luckily I made it, or I'd have regretted it terribly.

The picture shows a newly built gate tower, reportedly with all four sides to be completed. A few steps away was the second stop: the Sea God Temple.

The translation of "Mountain Gate" in the picture is… acceptable?

Third stop: Jin Yong Academy. Having grown up on Jin Yong's works, how could I not visit? I don't think I've read "The Mandarin Duck Blades"; I remember first learning about "water spinach" in "The Deadly Secret." During a guided tour, I heard that Jin Yong himself attended the groundbreaking ceremony.

In interviews, Jin Yong said he regretted writing so many novels and should have used that time for scholarship. But he lived long and didn't neglect scholarship, and he enriched so many martial arts enthusiasts—that's a beautiful legacy. Just look at how many adaptations there are!

Fourth stop: Confucius Temple and School.

The "Imperial Banquet" in the picture—I'd heard of it in opera lyrics before; now it clicked.

I should have looked at the Ming and Qing imperial examination systems later, but there were no signs, so I read them in reverse order. I forgot which master said: "China's imperial examination system was not only advanced in selecting officials, but also promoted private schooling and cultural development."

About 24,000 steps today! Summary: Perhaps because Haining's train station and scenic areas are in the suburbs, bus intervals are long, and the bus I was waiting for was the slowest. Since I wasn't in a hurry, I didn't want to take a taxi—tickets later on would be a huge expense. It reminded me of riding bus 933 in Beijing. When will I be free to travel without financial worry? When can I book a hotel without blinking?

D10 (2020.10.18) Haining – Shaoxing – East Lake, Lu Xun's Hometown (including Lu Xun's Former Residence, Lu Xun's Ancestral Home, Lu Xun Memorial Hall, Sanwei Bookstore, Baicao Garden, and Lu Xun's Scenic Garden)

I liked the poem in the picture. After dropping my luggage, I went to the first stop: Shaoxing East Lake. My planning wasn't detailed enough, so I took some unnecessary detours. But East Lake's ticket, if bought separately at 50 yuan, is not worth it—it's small, the wupeng boat requires an extra ticket, and it needs 4 people to depart. Shaoxing locals get in free…

After leaving East Lake, I went to Lu Xun's Hometown. There's WeChat audio guide, and some guides use Bluetooth earphones so they don't disturb other visitors. Unfortunately, I only saw one group doing that.

From the picture, I finally understood what the "three flavors" refer to.

The stories in the picture were still very moving. After touring the Lu Xun Memorial Hall, hungry, tired, and cold, I went to a noodle restaurant recommended online—the taste was good.

After eating, I waited until 6:30 PM for the night tour of Shenyuan Garden. Holding lanterns while strolling was creative, and leveraging the popularity of "The Story of Minglan" along with Lu You and Tang Wan's love story should attract visitors. During the day, Lu Xun's Hometown was packed with tourists. Note: The combo ticket with night tour costs 140 yuan on Ctrip, covering East Lake, Orchid Pavilion, Dayu Mausoleum; Lu Xun's Hometown is free.

I eavesdropped on a guide telling the story of "Chai Tou Feng." The performance revolved around this theme, with rain adding to the melancholy. I returned early to my hotel to do laundry, worried that the damp climate on Zhoushan Island would prevent clothes from drying. My step count broke a record; my feet were crippled.

D11 (2020.10.19) Shaoxing – Orchid Pavilion, Dayu Mausoleum

I asked about tickets at the long-distance bus station—good thing I did, because there are several stations with different schedules. Then I took a bus over ten kilometers to Orchid Pavilion, saving some money for Zhoushan. On the bus, I met a local who also loves calligraphy—we explored together. A light drizzle fell, but I had rain gear.

There's also the Orchid Pavilion Museum; as a calligraphy enthusiast, I had to pay tribute. The picture shows the "Winding Stream for Floating Wine Cups"—literati's drinking vessels. I now see this representation in TV dramas too!

Having a companion means there are photos! We even ate together—so lucky…

Dayu Mausoleum. I couldn't climb the mountain, so I just looked from below.

If I had the time and energy, going up would be fun—all bamboo forests with high negative oxygen ions.