A Roots-Seeking Journey Through Zhejiang, Fujian, Guangdong, and Jiangxi in Autumn 2021

Left Shanghai at a little past 9 a.m. on November 22, drove a total of 147 km to reach Shengzhou's 'Fat Sister Huangze Cave Mansion Steamed Buns' for lunch, stopping along the way at the Jiasha Bridge service area to charge the car. Shengzhou is actually known as the capital of Chinese street food, boasting more varieties than Shaxian, but Shaxian is more famous. Due to limited time and appetite, we only ate two items.

In the afternoon, we drove another 150+ km to reach Taizhou hotel. In the evening, we had seafood at 'Baishuiyang Home-style Cooking' on Kangping Road Food Street in Taizhou. The specialties were Baishuiyang tofu and horse-head fish. Being greedy on the first day, we also ordered bamboo shrimp and mantis shrimp, and surprisingly finished everything. We also bought small crab claws at 'Xian'er Daodao' to take back to the hotel as a late-night snack. Since we were just passing through, we didn't visit Taizhou much, only went to the riverside to fly the drone.

On November 23, we drove about 300+ km from Taizhou to Sansha in Xiapu, recharging at Qingjiang and Cangnan service areas along the way. We had a quick lunch at the Cangnan service area. We arrived at the first stop, Xiao Hao Beach, around 2-3 p.m. This was the result of rushing, and we even got a 6-point speeding ticket on the Shenhai Expressway.

Not far down from Xiao Hao is the Light and Shadow Boardwalk. Actually, you don't have to go to Dongbi Village to watch the sunset; the boardwalk here offers great shooting positions for sunset. Half an hour before sunset, people with long lenses and cameras started claiming spots. Several elderly men seemed to be regulars here, not only for the sunset but also to capture the waves left by passing fishing boats.

For accommodation, finding a clean guesthouse is fine; you don't necessarily need a sea view, because once you step out, there are sea views everywhere. It felt more economical to save money and not get a sea-view room. In the evening, we had seafood at the 'Sansha on the Tip of the Tongue' food stall in the county town. The county has so-called food stalls, which are actually small restaurants, as well as big hotels. We thought small restaurants were good. To eat different things each day, we chose red ribbon fish and red sturgeon, both rare in Shanghai, and they were very fresh and delicious. If there's a chance, we'll definitely go again.

On November 24, since we couldn't get up early, we didn't watch the sunrise in Xiapu. Next time, if we go to Xiapu alone for a few more days, we might consider it. Also, going to Xiawei Island in Xiapu would have added three to four hours round trip just for a popular cave, so we gave up. The guesthouse on Dadeng Island was booked before departure, but we only found out that a new airport for Xiamen was being built there, so there wasn't much to see. Since we were passing by Pingtan anyway, we decided to first go to the place closest to Taiwan proper in the afternoon, and then stay at the place closest to Kinmen in the evening. It's about 250 km from Xiapu to Pingtan, and we charged the car at Toubao service area on the way. Then we charged a lot at Tannan Bay Beach in Pingtan. On Pingtan Island, we first went to the 68-nautical-mile scenic area's temple to have vegetarian food, then went to Tannan Bay, so we didn't have to backtrack. It was quite late when we left Pingtan. From Pingtan to Dadeng Island was another almost 250 km, and we arrived at Dadeng Island after 6 p.m., charging at Banyi service area on the way. In the evening, we had dinner at a small shop near the guesthouse: steamed golden pomfret and sweet potato leaves, the first vegetable dish ordered on the trip.

On November 25, we finally reached the turnaround point of this trip. Setting off early, after crossing Xiamen Island, we headed straight to Guantang in Chaozhou. The distance was also about 250 km, and we charged at Haimen Island and Xinan service areas on the way. We arrived just after 1 p.m., and since it was past the meal peak, the popular 'Brothers Beef Hotpot' wasn't too crowded. We ate four plates of meat in one go. Surprisingly, when we entered the hotpot restaurant, the broth was already boiling on the table, ready to eat at any time, showing how busy they are. Guantang is lined with beef hotpot shops all the way; indeed, no cow can leave Chaozhou alive.

After the hotpot, we briefly left Chaozhou for Nan'ao in Shantou. Although I've driven many mountain roads in Yunnan and coastal roads in the UK, Nan'ao's roads are currently number one. The Nan'ao Bridge and the island's ring road – it would be a regret not to drive them. The iconic lighthouse and the intersection that looks like Kamakura are must-visits. In the evening, we stayed in a sea-view room for less than 300 yuan. Since it was far from Nan'ao county town, we still went to the town to fully charge the car and also had local satay noodles and desserts.

On November 26, we were a bit reluctant to leave Nan'ao; we didn't expect it to be so beautiful. Next time we come, we can stay a few more days. In the morning, we continued along the northern ring road to Chaoyang District in Shantou, the final destination of the trip. Chaoyang is a godly place – there are almost no traffic lights, yet vehicles of all sizes at intersections safely avoid each other in orderly fashion. The Yao family ancestral hall was easy to find, but due to the pandemic, the main gate was closed. However, the side door was open, and by invoking the Yao family name, we easily entered and offered three sticks of incense. This time, we came to get a preview; maybe later when we have money, we'll make a donation.

Chaoyang District is not big. After walking a short distance, we arrived at Grandma's Zheng family ancestral hall, but it was under renovation and holding ancestral worship activities, so we couldn't enter. Then we continued the food journey. At noon, we found a popular rice noodle roll place; for 10 yuan, we ate very full. Afterwards, I got a haircut at a state-run barbershop.

After the roots-seeking, we had to return to Chaozhou, targeting Paifang Street. Once in Chaozhou, it was almost all about eating. The day before checking into the hotel, Shanghai had a medium-risk area, but the hotel didn't have too many requirements; as long as we had a green health code, we were allowed in. The first dinner was lion's head goose. We found 'A Xiong Goose Meat Shop' on Dianping; it turned out not to be a restaurant but more like a stall in a market, with people crowded at the door buying braised goose. After observing for five minutes, we understood there was no queue or number system – just squeeze in and buy.

In the evening, we mainly strolled around the ancient city on Paifang Street. We didn't have time to eat, but we planned what to eat the next day. Also, the hotel parking lot had charging stations, which was a plus.

We spent the whole day walking back and forth on Paifang Street, eating continuously. You can fly a drone on Guangji Bridge.

Today we drove quite a long time. From Yongding to Shaxian was over 200 km, and we charged at Xiyang and Huyang service areas on the way. Upon arriving in Shaxian, we headed straight to a snack shop, which had things that are not available in Shaxian restaurants outside.

It was already dark when we arrived in Jingdezhen. We quickly went to the 'Home for Dinner' restaurant. We had braised pork and scrambled eggs, but it wasn't enough, so we added a winter bamboo shoots and meat dish to be satisfied. Back at the guesthouse, we could play with clay and made two small pottery pieces, waiting to receive them after a month. The guesthouse deserves a thumbs up – they only checked the green health code. Some hotels in Jingdezhen directly reject people from places with travel codes marked with stars, so we chose this guesthouse.

On November 30, we recommend the China Ceramics Museum and the Imperial Kiln Factory ruins. Taoxichuan can be skipped; it's deserted and has nothing.

Travel Journal Table of Contents

1. Day 1: Shengzhou, Taizhou

2. Day 2: Xiapu

3. Day 3: Pingtan, Dadeng Island

4. Day 4: Nan'ao Island, Shantou

5. Day 5: Chaoyang (Shantou), Chaozhou

6. Day 6: Chaozhou

7. Day 7: Yongding, Shaxian

8. Day 8 & 9: Jingdezhen

9. Day 10: Qiandao Lake (Thousand Island Lake)

10. Day 11: Return Home

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