Zhouning Covered Bridges - Ancient Covered Bridges along the Hexi River

In Zhouning County, starting from the hills at the border with Shouning County in the north, winding down along the Hexi River, there are three beautiful covered bridges: Nancheng Bridge in Taoyuan, Qixing Bridge in Taokeng, and Sanxian Bridge in Hexi Village.

I drove from Dalixi Village in Zhenghe County, taking a shortcut, which led to some perilous moments. This route passed through a corner of Shouning County and turned into a rough dirt road near Tingxia Village. I remember the villagers casting surprised glances at me; only later did I realize that traversing this road was no easy feat.

Because of the rain, the dirt road was extremely muddy, with several steep uphill sections. The car kept slipping, and at one point it slid toward the cliff edge, almost causing a serious accident. Still, I remained relatively calm, my driving skills held up, and by constantly adjusting the steering wheel, I barely managed to conquer the steepest slope.

After navigating this treacherous 6–7 kilometers of dirt road, the houses and fields of Taoyuan Village suddenly came into view behind the mountain. The Hexi River flowed through the middle of the plain like a long, winding ribbon.

Nancheng Bridge is located beside the highway at the southern end of the village. Passing through Taoyuan Village, I didn't take a close look; both sides of the road were lined with well-planned new houses, a sign of economic prosperity. Like the village, Nancheng Bridge had been newly renovated, spanning the Hexi River.

Driving another 2 kilometers south, I entered Taokeng Village and saw Qixing Bridge, also known as “Lanxin Bridge.” Compared to Nancheng Bridge’s concrete arch, this antique wooden-arch covered bridge was far more pleasing to the eye. The bridge was only about 20 meters long, small and exquisite. The three-tiered hip-and-gable roof was adorned with colorful auspicious figures, and the orange window panels, though uncommon, added a charming touch.

On the other side of the Hexi River, at the end of the bridge, stood the bustling Lingong Palace. The deity enshrined there was undoubtedly the village’s ancestor. In Fujian, the Lin surname is one of the most prominent, and the earlier Taoyuan Village also has a majority of Lin families.

Continuing toward Zhouning, I took a side road to Hexi Village.

This village is aptly named after the Hexi River; it is larger and older than other villages along the river, such as Taoyuan and Taokeng, and its roads extend in all directions.

The village was unusually beautiful and tranquil—something I hadn't expected before coming. The Hexi River bends through the village, cutting it like a crescent moon, and Sanxian Bridge sits at the corner of that crescent.

Most of the old houses on both banks of the Hexi River are ancient dwellings from the Ming and Qing dynasties, built with rammed earth walls—walls high and doors narrow, likely a measure taken by villagers to protect themselves during frequent ancient wars. These original old houses, without any decoration, are now mostly dilapidated.

Returning to Sanxian Bridge: the bridge itself is only in plain gray and black, colors shaped by time, giving it a stable and calm appearance. In the dim interior, two or three elderly people sat or stood quietly, not speaking, just gazing at the scenery. Another elderly man with a limp hobbled slowly toward the bridgehead. Apart from the sound of the stream flowing, there was no other noise. These people seemed to blend into the native landscape; their accustomed solitude, to a traveler’s eyes, appeared as part of the scenery.

At one end of the bridge stands Baosheng Palace, housing the worship of the Great Emperor Baosheng, which is commonly seen along the coast of southern Fujian. Finding it here in the deep mountains of northern Fujian was somewhat surprising.

(Recorded on April 26, 2022)