A Three-Day Trip to Fuding: I’m Giving You This Off-the-Beaten-Path Summer Escape, Along with the Best Moments of My Summer.

📍 Edinburgh · 👁 1 reads · ❤️ 103 likes

In this era, travel is the best gift. We both know why.

Shanghai people struggle through spring, living cautiously, making even a trip a big deal. You can't just pack up and go; you're forced to learn delayed gratification. This summer came fast and fierce—temperatures shot up overnight, just like the restless, pent-up travel enthusiasm that could no longer be hidden.

I wanted to find a place to quietly stay, watch the clouds and the sea, so peaceful that I wouldn't need to think about the rest of my life. I wanted to find a place to idle away time, to whisper with mountain winds and ocean waves, without caring about the meaning of travel. I wanted to find a place to encounter unique cuisine—eat, wander, eat again, without worrying about gaining a few pounds.

So I avoided the crowded, overpriced internet-famous routes and took a high-speed train straight here. My short but wonderful summer journey began. From the south to even further south, opening the door to a new world.

When something becomes a label, you overlook everything else. Take Fuding, for example: to outsiders, its name is forever linked to white tea. If not for this trip, I wouldn't have known that Fuding’s landscapes are as gorgeous as a postcard, that its cuisine is worthy of being featured in 'Once Upon a Bite', that its island ranks among China's ten most beautiful islands, and that the happiness index of Fuding’s residents is far higher than mine...

Now, I sincerely invite you to join this journey. Let's cleverly avoid the summer heat and head to Fuding's mountains and seas.

An ancient saying goes: 'The deep blue reflects the emerald hills, the light clouds accompany the timely rain, love rises with the wind, soaring ninety thousand miles.'

Here, 'cuiwei' means mountains, 'cangyuan' means sea, 'xianning' means clouds, 'lingze' means rain, 'fuyao' means wind. Every poetic phrase, just by imagination, you know how beautiful it is—and on Mount Taimu, I encountered them all in a single day.

The character '姥' in Taimu is pronounced 'mǔ'. It is located in Fuding, Ningde, Fujian. Mount Taimu stands by the East China Sea, with three sides facing the sea and one side backed by mountains. Leaving aside geological formations and features, my most direct impression is the ubiquitous grotesque rocks. Nature has lovingly endowed each stone with unique meaning, as if the mountain were a giant stone sculpture palace. With a little imagination, you can see 'Monkey Looking in the Mirror', 'Horse Howling at the Sky', 'Sea Lion Looking at the Sky'—all come to life before your eyes.

Mount Taimu sings—its songs come from cicadas, from waterfalls and streams, from the wind passing through forests and caves. Granite peak forest caves are one of its features: Seven Star Cave, Dripping Water Cave, Hongxue Cave—each has a beautiful name and a wonderful legend. Outside the caves are paintings of flowers, birds, and landscapes; inside are cool hiding spots from the summer heat, as well as 'natural dream factories' of light and stone. These caves create a wonderful mystery tour—you never know what light you'll encounter in the next cave. Before squeezing through some incredibly narrow cracks, I even wondered if I could pass through smoothly.

Climbing Mount Taimu requires some stamina. Fortunately, beautiful scenery accompanied me all the way; I wasn't just trudging with my head down. My camera shutter clicked furiously, afraid to miss any step of the scenery. So, with frequent stops, I didn't feel too tired. The mountain breeze was refreshing, the shaded paths under the vegetation brought increasing joy, plus the coolness of the caves. Compared to the unbearable heat outside, being in Mount Taimu was actually much happier.

At noon, I had a bowl of vegetable noodles at the vegetarian restaurant in Yipianwa Temple on the mountain. The broth, made with mushrooms, kelp, and pickled cabbage, looked unremarkable but actually had the umami of mushrooms and the refreshing tang of pickled cabbage—perfect for summer's sluggish taste buds.

Exiting the vegetarian restaurant, both sides revealed hidden wonders. On one side was a hanging copper temple made of 100 tons of brass, built between two peaks of Mount Taimu. Except for its front, the other three sides are surrounded by mountains. Under the sunlight, the dark rocks gleamed brightly, making the temple appear even more solemn.

On the other side, inside the cool Danjing Cave, you could sit and rest while sipping white tea. In this quiet and elegant cave, I experienced a touch of ancient elegance.

The sudden heavy rain on the way down felt like crossing four seasons to rush to the parched land, brief like a tipsy feeling. The still overcast sky blurred the boundary between city and sea. At that moment, walking on Fujian's only sea-view hanging tunnel, a refreshing breeze brushed past, carrying away all the sweat and fatigue. Every turn brought a full embrace of beautiful scenery.

For me, the greatest joy of climbing a mountain is not reaching the summit, but the change of scenery and mood with every step. Sitting in Danjing Cave sipping white tea 🍵, the tea blended with the view; the watermelon 🍉 eaten at a halfway pavilion was the sweetest of the whole summer; the vegetarian noodles 🍜 for lunch were amazingly delicious; the light falling through the cracks in the cave seemed like an angel passing by... All these bits and pieces stacked up into beautiful memories.

Morning's blazing heat, mountain forest's coolness. The morning sun poured down like molten iron, then the sudden heavy rain in the afternoon dropped the temperature. The four seasons of southern China were condensed into one day on Mount Taimu.

Mount Taimu Scenic Area

📍 Address: Within Fuding City, Ningde, 45 km from city center

⏱ Opening hours: May 1-Oct 7: 07:00-17:30 (last entry 17:30); Oct 8-Apr 30: 07:00-17:00 (last entry 17:00)

🚇 Transportation:

High-speed train to Taimushan Station, then 10 min by bus;

Fly to Wenzhou or Fuzhou, then transfer to high-speed train;

Self-drive: exit at Taimushan toll station, follow signs for 1 km.

🎫 Ticket: 140 yuan (including scenic bus)

🚏 Hiking routes: Maps at the entrance give several options with estimated times.

❗️❗️ Recommended must-try experiences: Tea drinking in Danjing Cave, vegetarian noodles, hanging plank road, hanging copper hall, cave exploration.

👗 Dress suggestion: White or other cool-toned clothes; wear sneakers for climbing.

📸 Recommended photo spots: Winding stone steps, places where light shines through caves, sea-view hanging plank road.

Tips: Apply sunscreen, bring an umbrella.

The Lv Xueya White Tea Base is only a 5-minute drive from the Mount Taimu ticket office, at an altitude of 650-850 meters. Thanks to a friend, I could stay nearby after climbing.

Although its location is called a 'base', locals call it the White Tea Manor, adding a touch of fairy-tale charm. Surrounded by mountains, the manor has fresh air and lush greenery. The artistic conception between mountains and waters matches white tea perfectly. The main scenic area offers dining, accommodation, and tours. You can also visit the tea plantation, learn about white tea culture, and the origin of Lv Xueya.

White tea has a light color, fresh and mellow taste, with a hint of fragrance and a sweet aftertaste. It also helps reduce heat and fire, making it especially suitable for humid hot weather. Before leaving, I bought some as gifts for family and friends. Now, I'm sipping Lv Xueya while reminiscing about the pleasant journey.

If you want to see mountains, rivers, and lakes with someone, and feel the world and love, I selfishly think Yushan Island is an excellent choice.

Yushan Island is surrounded by sea; taking a boat is currently the only way to reach it. Departing from Yujing Pier in Fuding, the moment I stepped onto the speedboat, my restless heart was calmed by the sea breeze.

Seagulls chased the boat's stern, flying against the wind, just like people yearning for freedom. I couldn't help but stand on the deck to look, but was driven back inside by the heat in just a moment.

Half an hour later, the speedboat docked at Mazu Village on Yushan Island. Not far from the pier is the tourist service center, where you can buy island entry and transportation tickets.

Yushan Island was once rated by Chinese National Geography as one of 'China's Ten Most Beautiful Islands'. An island in the sea with lakes on the island—that's a major feature of Yushan Island, but it's far more than that.

On the vast East China Sea, ten thousand acres of grassland embrace the Great and Small Tianhu Lakes. They are located in a mountain hollow at 2,000 meters altitude, about 1,000 meters apart, facing each other across the mountain like treasures scattered on earth.

From the Great Tianhu Lake, following stone steps toward the Small Tianhu Lake, as altitude steadily rises, one gradually enters boundless grassland. If not for the moist sea breeze, if not for the rippling blue sea in the distance, if not for the faint light on Small Tianhu Lake, I would have thought I was on the vast grasslands of Northwest China, where 'the sky is blue, the plains are vast, and cattle and sheep appear when the wind blows the grass low.'

Over the hill, as far as the eye can see, there is a 'Divine Turtle Entering the Sea.'

At this moment, closing my eyes to listen, the wind comes from the sea, rustling through the grass. This is not Ningxia, not Shaanxi, not Inner Mongolia—this is above the vast East China Sea.

On the slopes along the lake, tea plants are grown. Looking down, they resemble fingerprints, a curious sight. God has left his mark here, signing a contract for eternal green mountains, flowing waters, and enduring beauty.

A wild, offbeat attraction. Once a military base, now the air-raid shelters and trenches remain, and even the slogans from those years are preserved on the walls. A lighthouse stands alone by the coast, guarding the vast sea as always. This is an excellent spot to watch the sunset.

Passing through the former air-raid shelter, the cave entrance frames the distant sea view like a natural picture. If the tunnel and its surroundings were developed, it has great potential to become an internet-famous spot.

After exiting the tunnel, a winding path flanked by reeds immediately takes on a fresh, youthful style. Without a second thought, I picked up my camera and took a set of summer wallpaper photos.

Moon Bay lives up to its name, like a bright moon falling gently into the mortal world. Blue sea, fine sand, incomparable scenery. Unfortunately, time was short, and I only took a distant look from upstream. A bit of regret, to be made up next time.

Between Moon Bay and Dongjiao Village, there is a looping road with a big turn. If you have enough time, take a stroll. It is said that along this road, besides shaded trees and flowers, there are many artistic retro props—that's the confidence for your moments on social media.

Dongjiao Observation Deck

At the end of the looping road, the sparsely populated Dongjiao Village is like a paradise. The village has spring trees and a 270-degree glass observation deck that offers a panoramic view of Dongjiao Village by the sea. Boats come and go on the sea, carrying the livelihood of every islander. Their busy lives are the 'fireworks' of our eyes.

On the steps of the observation deck, just a hundred meters apart, different lives intersect here, between mountains and sea. In a moment, I will go on to the next stop; they will continue along their own tracks. A simple photo can tell many stories—that is the meaning of travel.

In just one day, my first encounter with Yushan Island left a feeling of 'deep affection but shallow fate.' Every spot I visited deserves at least half a day on its own, and there are so many more beautiful places on the island that even three days and two nights could be filled.

I treasure this island very much, not only because it gathers all natural beauty, but also because it is naturally beautiful. No crowds of tourists, no overflowing tour groups, no congested traffic... I could take off my mask and breathe fresh air deeply, walk barefoot on the white sandy beach, run freely on the vast highland meadows, look up at the starry sky and fall asleep to the sound of waves, wake up to the first ray of sunshine... Every 'can' has a surreal beauty and wonder, all unforgettable.

How to get to Yushan Island?

① First reach Fuding city.

② From Fuding to Yujing Pier.

③ Take a passenger boat from Yujing Pier for about 30 minutes to Yushan Island.

Besides driving, the best way for friends from Fujian, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, or Shanghai is to take the high-speed train to Fuding Station. Direct trains are available from Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai, taking about 4 hours, with frequent departures.

From Fuding to the pier

How to get from Fuding city to the pier?

Option 1: At Fuding South Bus Station, take a rural bus directly to Yujing Pier. Buses run from 7:00 AM, about 1 hour.

Option 2: Take a taxi directly to Yujing Pier, about 130 yuan, 40 minutes. The time difference is small, so bus is recommended.

Passenger boats from Yujing Pier to Yushan Island Pier: normally 9:00 AM and 2:00 PM.

Return boats from Yushan Island Pier to Yujing Pier: normally 7:00 AM, 9:00 AM, and 1:30 PM.

One-way ticket: 50 yuan per person, buy on site.

During summer, additional trips may be added; arrive 20 minutes early.

Accommodation is mainly in a few spots: Mazu Village, Yuniao Village, Moon Bay, Dongjiao Village, Zao'ao Village, Peach Blossom Valley.

The island has about 200 double rooms in total, hard to get during peak season.

If you can, try 'Xinghai Residence', built on the mountain with only twelve rooms corresponding to the twelve zodiac signs. I didn't book it this time, but passed by for a look. The window faces the sea, great view, but the room is a bit small. The wind is strong on the mountain; maybe that's why there's no balcony.

I posted photos, and every time I was repeatedly asked: 'Where is this? So beautiful, and so few people.' I ignored their awkwardness of missing my location and repeatedly answered: 'It's Niulanggang in Fuding.'

Then someone would ask: 'Why is it called Niulanggang?'

Legend has it... I wasn't going to tell any legend. Beauty is enough; who cares about legends? The biggest regret this summer would be not coming here to see the sea and play in the water. You're not here to hear stories.

Legend has it... ahem, just kidding. Niulanggang Coastal Tourist Resort faces Yushan Island across the sea. The bathing beach has flat sand, blue sea, fine sand; walking on it is soft and smooth, not prickly at all. On a hot summer day, strolling on the beach or simply diving into the sea—what a refreshing feeling, which you can't experience in an air-conditioned room. If swimming isn't enough, there are also water bikes, dragon boats, and other activities—there's sure to be a way to date the sea that appeals to you.

This is also a paradise for human toddlers. No matter how lively or fussy a child is, when they come to the beach, they will obediently pick up a bucket to collect shells and play with sand, naturally calming down. Such warm parent-child scenes of small hands holding big hands are common on the beach.

The reefs by the sea are the work of wind and rain and waves over the years. The sun rises from the sea and sets over the mountain, year after year, witnessing the subtle changes in the reefs. I took off my shoes and climbed up a bit, enduring a little pain, as if stepping onto the steps of a garden on Earth. Surprises came rushing in. Between the mountain and the sea, between ships and the shore, there was a tiny me, secretly happy in my heart. Happy for the cool sea breeze, for the joyful summer, for not wasting this summer.

Not only going into the sea, but also up the mountain. Exiting the bathing area, follow the wooden plank road up. On the mountainside, there is a fresh-looking campsite. The wind is a bit strong, but you can enjoy an unparalleled sea view. With the props on site, you can easily take artistic photos.

From Mount Taimu to Yushan Island to Niulanggang, at this moment, sitting under the tent, the wind blew from the sea, crossed the slope, passed through the tent, and rushed without turning back to the mountaintop, taking away the sweaty heat. At this moment, this summer is complete.

How to get to Niulanggang?

Address: Taiyu Town, Fuding City, Ningde City, Fujian Province, 23 km from Mount Taimu Scenic Area.

Bus: First take a long-distance bus to Fuding, then transfer to a bus to Qinyu Town. After getting off, there are many minivans to the scenic area, about 5 yuan per person.

Self-drive: Take Shenhai Expressway, exit at Baiyang/Boxia area, follow X973 to Wendu Road.

Ticket: 50 yuan

Opening hours: 08:00—19:00

It is recommended to arrange Niulanggang and Mount Taimu on the same route; you can buy a joint ticket online in advance.

Besides the above attractions, Niulanggang has many places I didn't visit, unfortunately giving it too little time. I didn't go to Zhi Nu Cave or Chaoyin Pavilion. Next time, I'll allocate at least a full day to fully enjoy the slow seaside time.

As a coastal city, Fuding has abundant seafood resources. Many cooking methods: steaming, stir-frying, soup, boiling, raw marinated... During these days, almost every meal was seafood with beer, satisfying my cravings beyond measure.

The cuisine of Fujian and Chaoshan shares a common origin from the Danjia people, so dishes are quite similar, such as oyster omelette, various rice cakes, and assorted fish pot.

But there are more unique aspects. I used to think Fujianese don't eat spicy food, but this time in Fuding, many soups were actually sour and spicy. Later I learned that these various soups have a unified name: 'Penghai'.

In Fuding, Penghai is a dish that can appear both in formal banquets and in home cooking. The colors are rich and bright, ingredients can be simple or luxurious. Various seafood is the soul, while starch is the best partner to bind the soul, blending into the fluid happiness of Fuding people.

Fuding's raw marinated seafood is more vibrant in flavor, with a sharper sourness and spiciness. The first taste wakes you up completely, instantly stimulating your appetite. The sweetness of seafood, plus the flavorful seasonings, paired with a mouthful of ice cold beer—oh my, I could come to Fuding just for the food!

Buddha's hand snails and barnacles look similar but are slightly different. I was lucky to try both this time.

Barnacles have no stalk; their conical body looks like a tiny 'volcano'. They are used in soup.

Buddha's hand snails are commonly called 'sea chicken feet' or 'dog claw snails'. They have a soft cylindrical stalk and a cluster of shell plates covering a flower-like head, resembling a goose's neck.

Both types mainly grow on high tidal zones with heavy wave action, attached to rock crevices in clear water, often in dense clusters. The stalk is retractable; if touched, it contracts into the crevice, making harvesting difficult, so market prices are high. Interested friends can see a special segment in Season 3 of 'Once Upon a Bite', 'Small Seas, Small Fresh'.

I prefer the preparation of Buddha's hand snails over the soup, as it better highlights their sweetness.

Besides seafood, what else is special?

Even non-seafood lovers can feast in Fuding. Besides Fuding meat slices and meat swallow, there are many other foods.

The night before departure, I specifically visited a famous local seafood stall. Ordering blindly, everything tasted great.

Local Binglang taro must be tried. It is cooked in the Chaoshan style of sugar coating: crispy sweet sugar coats the soft taro, with rich taro flavor and smooth texture, impossible to stop eating.

Shuiguo (water cake) is a well-known home-style food in Fuding, essential for holidays. The simplest way to eat steamed water cake is to slice it and dip it in chili soy sauce. We ordered fried water cake, which added crispy oil fragrance, making the texture richer.

The braised pork hock at this restaurant was also amazing. Just looking at its color and gloss made my mouth water. The meat was tender and soft, oily but not greasy. With it, I could finish two bowls of rice.

Fuding's famous food street is extremely lively at night. Unfortunately, I was too full that evening and didn't go, so that's also for next time.

D1: High-speed train from Shanghai to Fuding station

D2: Morning drive to Mount Taimu Scenic Area, spend the day, stay at Lv Xueya White Tea Base at night

D3: Visit tea gardens, watch tea picking, taste tea at teahouse. Lunch then head to Yushan Island. Afternoon explore Yushan Island, stay on the island.

D4: Morning explore Yushan Island, after lunch head to Niulanggang for half a day

Every trip has regrets. We always say 'next time', but we never know when that next time will be. Especially in the past two years.

When planning this trip, I was a bit anxious, worried about all sorts of problems, no longer as spontaneous as before. But once I set out, I had no regrets at all—I was afraid I might not have made this decision!

This short three-day journey activated me from my stagnant work and rescued me from confused thinking. No one can go without traveling. A trip is not just enjoyment for the eyes and a treat for the taste buds; the positive emotional value it brings even surpasses those. So don't hesitate, don't stay still. Let the words on your wish list come true one by one.

Mountains and rivers meet again. See you on the next journey~~~

Travelogue Directory

1. Prologue

2. 'Mount Taimu' – 90% of people mispronounce the name, beautiful as a painting

3. Lv Xueya White Tea Base

4. Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Grasslands, Starry Sky – Yushan Island has all natural beauty

5. Key Points!! Yushan Island Guide

6. Photos That Got Asked About Over and Over – All from Niulanggang Coastal Scenic Area

7. Key Points!! Niulanggang Guide

8. Fuding – A City of Culinary Delights Perfect for Drinking

9. Itinerary

10. Conclusion