Strange Mountains Entering the Sea, A Fairyland on Earth, Falling into the Dreamy World of Fuding
Fuding, meaning 'land of abundant blessings,' is located at the coastal center of Fujian and Zhejiang. It boasts the World Geopark Mount Taimu, a golden coastline, and a chain of pearl-like islands, especially Yushan Island. The fantastic scenery, culture, and cuisine have long captivated me. I had been longing to visit for a long time, and finally this summer, I was able to make the trip and see it for myself.
If you plan to come by high-speed rail, you can choose Fuding Station or Taimushan Station (closer to the mountain). From the stations, there are direct buses to the Mount Taimu tourist distribution center. The highest point of Mount Taimu is 917 meters, and a car can reach an elevation of 550 meters. With enough time, most people can fully enjoy a round trip. Perched on the coast of the East China Sea, Mount Taimu faces the sea on three sides and backs onto mountains on the other. If you climb to a high point and look far into the distance, you can take in wonderful stone formations, seas of clouds, mountain ranges, and islands, offering a panoramic view of the sea and sky. That's why Mount Taimu has always been known as a 'grand view of mountains and sea' and a 'fairyland on the sea.' Gazing from the Couple Peak Square, Mount Taimu looks like a giant natural bonsai. In the middle, 'Couple Peak' is one of the landmark rock formations. From a distance, it resembles a pair of long-separated lovers embracing and whispering to each other. The sea breeze blowing past seems like their murmurs, which I happened to overhear.
Not far from the square is Guoxing Temple, built in the fourth year of the Qianfu era of the Tang Dynasty (877 AD). At that time, the temple was enormous, with 360 stone pillars alone. Unfortunately, it was burned down in a fire during the Song Dynasty. Today, on the ruins, seven stone pillars still stand, maintaining the grandeur of the past, along with scattered stone carvings, stone wells, stone troughs, and more. Particularly notable is the Maitreya seat, extremely rare in China.
Behind Guoxing Temple lies Longtan Lake, covering over 3,000 square meters. The distant Eighteen Arhats Rock is reflected on the shimmering lake surface, creating a dreamlike mirror image. Visitors walking on the dam feel as if they are moving through a painting. Unfortunately, the water level was low during our visit; otherwise, it would have been an even more splendid sight.
'There are no ordinary stones on Mount Taimu; each seems crafted by divine hands. They take on shapes according to one's imagination, and all scenes reside in the heart.' This perfectly captures the highlight of Mount Taimu's strange rocks. These granite rock formations are scattered along the path, changing scenery with every step, full of interest. For example, this natural stone by the roadside is shaped like a heart, with surrounding vines tightly wrapping around the stone heart like blood vessels, giving it a sense of continuous life. Locals call it 'The Heart of Taimu.'
Another example is the Heavenly Pillar Peak, also a highlight of Mount Taimu. It resembles the 'Stabilizing Sea Needle' from myths. This huge stone pillar is 40 meters high, standing stout and tall, guarding the mountain. On top of the pillar are two stone eggs, one large and one small, shaped like a golden cat pouncing on a mouse. The overall impression is steep and spectacular. When posing next to the railing for a photo with the Heavenly Pillar, people with a fear of heights might feel their legs tremble. Though I'm not afraid of heights, I found myself worrying whether the pillar might be blown over by the sea breeze—a bit of unnecessary anxiety.
With strange rocks everywhere, Mount Taimu faces the sea on three sides and is often shrouded in clouds and mist, hence its reputation as a 'fairyland on the sea.' On the day we visited, the temperature was high with lots of moisture, and the distant fusion of mountains and sea was hazy yet magnificent, truly like a celestial realm. Shouting a few times produced many echoes, as if sound effects were added. Not satisfied with just the naked eye, I couldn't resist flying my drone above the classic peaks and rocks. Viewing from above—the Nine Carp Lake, the Nine Carp Facing Heaven Peak, the Great Plate Rock, the Immortal Sawing Board, etc.—gave a unique visual beauty.
Mount Taimu is a peak forest composed of granite. Besides strange rocks, another major attraction is cave exploration. There are over a hundred rock caves all over Mount Taimu, including famous ones like Calabash Cave, One-Line-Sky Cave, General Cave, Dripping Water Cave, and Seven Star Cave. You can choose based on your preference and ability. Some caves are extremely narrow—at the tightest point, only about 20 centimeters. If your head is big or you are slightly heavier, it's really hard to squeeze through, and you might get stuck. Remember to hold your backpack in your hand to pass through the narrowest sections. In some places, it's completely dark, requiring you to move sideways and grope your way slowly. When you finally pass through the challenges and suddenly come across a spacious, bright cave space, the feeling of relief is indescribable. Especially in Calabash Cave, we happily took photos for nearly an hour before leaving.
There are many rest stops along Mount Taimu where visitors can refuel and rest. For lunch, you can have a bowl of vegetarian noodles at Yipianwa Zen Temple, priced around 20-25 yuan. After the vegetarian meal, you can pray at the Taimu Goddess Hall, view the magical white tea mother tree 'Green Snow Bud,' and sip tea in the Hongxue Cave Tongtian Cave.
Behind the vegetarian restaurant is a spectacular suspended copper hall, built in the style of the Tang Dynasty. The hall is 12 meters high, with a construction area of 160 square meters, using over 150 tons of copper. It holds the national record for being the tallest single-story suspended copper hall in China. The hall is backed by Nine Carp Facing Heaven Peak, with Feixian Peak on the left and Lianhua Peak on the right, suspended between the two peaks. Under sunlight, it shines brilliantly, golden and resplendent; in misty weather, it resembles a mirage or a celestial palace.
At the foot of Mount Taimu, on the square of the Yuhu Scenic Area, stands a statue of the Taimu Goddess, both kind and majestic. This is also an ideal place to view the sea and watch the sunrise. Standing beneath the statue and looking ahead, you can take in the Qingchuan Bay and Fuyao Islands. Unfortunately, our luck wasn't good—due to the weather, we couldn't capture that perfect clarity. This regret will have to wait for my next visit to Mount Taimu.
II. Yushan Island—How Many People's Dream Island?
In a broad sense, Yushan is actually an archipelago, consisting of about a dozen islands. Dayushan is the largest among them. Yushan Island, known for its 'heavenly lake on the sea and southern country's Tianshan,' has long been listed as one of China's ten most beautiful islands. After descending from Mount Taimu, we took a taxi directly to Yujing Pier to catch a ferry. It takes about 30 minutes to reach Yushan Island. Currently, there are only two boats per day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon.
What fascinated me most about Yushan Island is the Tianhu Grassland. It is rare and precious to have such a large natural freshwater lake on an offshore island. Because it lies at the convergence point of warm and moist air currents from the north and south, the water in Tianhu never dries up year-round. Locals say it is formed by the dew from the grassy slopes beside the lake—truly a wonder. The two Tianhu lakes, one large and one small, are nestled between high mountains, with the sea and small islands in the distance. Walking on the grassland, embarking on an island adventure, feels like a scene from 'The Lord of the Rings'—perfect for shooting all kinds of epic photos.
The fusion of mountains and sea creates the pure natural beauty of Yushan Island. The shape of the sea breeze is best known to this grassland. A friend commented on the photos I posted: 'I want to take dozens of sheep up there. The sheep eat grass, and I eat the sheep. Until the grass is gnawed clean and the sheep are finished, I won't leave! Then, I'll go find the next paradise on earth!' This romantic notion even moved me, a tough guy, to tears.
'How many detours must one take to become a real man?' I especially like these two photos taken by my fellow traveler, Brother Streetlamp, using his drone. Curved paths are more beautiful than straight lines; life's roads are more complete with twists and turns.
On Yushan Island, there are still many air-raid shelters preserved—places where our forebears fought. Walking through the deep, dark tunnels of hundreds of meters, suddenly emerging into the light feels like finding a hidden paradise, where the distant islands and cargo ships dance with the sea breeze.
Some female companions in our group had pre-booked a seaside guesthouse. Because of this, we made up for the sunrise we missed at Mount Taimu on Yushan Island. Before five in the morning, the morning light outside the window woke me. Quickly dressing and going up to the terrace, I set up my tripod to capture a sunrise time-lapse, and even greedily launched my drone to record the rapidly changing colors of dawn. At that moment, all was silent except for the howling sea breeze. A bunch of like-minded people waiting for the sunrise over the sea brought a special kind of happiness.
Dongjiao Village is the largest fishing village on Yushan Island, with an area of 3.56 square kilometers and about 100 boats of various sizes. Halfway up the mountain at the entrance of the village, there is a 270-degree glass observation deck. Standing there, you can take in the whole village—a fantastic photo spot.
A short distance from Dongjiao Village is Moon Bay. From this drone photo, you can understand how it got its name. The graceful curve, under the beating of the sea, constantly sparkles with glittering waves—very beautiful. Moon Bay Beach also has many recreational facilities, and the nearby village hides several small guesthouses run by locals.
III. Niulanggang Camping, Waiting for the Weaver Girl
After returning from Yushan Island, we went to a beach popular with locals: Niulanggang. Niulanggang is located southeast of Taimushan Town in Fuding City, about 23 kilometers from Mount Taimu, and faces Yushan Island across the sea. The beach at Niulanggang is flat, with surrounding mountains green and tree-lined. Natural attractions include Mandarin Duck Reef, Weaver Girl Cave, and One-Line-Sky over the Sea. One of Niulanggang's iconic activities is the sky rafting, which adults and children can enjoy together. Sitting in a 'small boat,' you slide down an open-air pipe from the mountain, enjoying aerial views while feeling the thrill of speed.
Halfway up Niulanggang, there is a Bubble Camp, with tents of various sizes and styles. There is also an area designed as a private garden-style camping zone. I especially liked the 'Sky Gate' covered with vines and flowers—looks good from any angle.
In the afternoon, the entire beach was bustling with tourists. Some built sandcastles, others rode speedboats, and some swam in the sea—all seeking coolness and joy in the summer heat. A wooden boardwalk winds up the rocks, passing by a white lighthouse. Compressed by a telephoto lens, it looks like a scene from a movie.
IV. Fuding Food Landmarks
Fuding's unique location and fusion of mountains and sea give rise to its diverse, pure natural flavors. Besides being known as 'China's White Tea Hometown' and 'China's Perch Hometown,' Fuding is also China's first 'Food Landmark City.' It has over 380 kinds of snacks, 45 of which have been awarded 'China Famous Snacks.' Seafood is also abundant and varied, some of which I couldn't even name. Whether on the streets and alleys of the city or at the island's food stalls, there are endless special delicacies waiting for us to taste.
Apart from the famous Yirong Dapaidang, there is also the Xixi Snack Street, a food hub carefully built by the local government. It becomes even livelier at night. Here you'll find old shops with decades of history selling local meat slices, as well as selected representative cuisines from other parts of China. There are also trendy lifestyle spots and internet-famous check-in places popular with young people. This small city is working hard to create a happier life for its people through its own actions.
V. Travel Tips
Transportation: If there is no direct high-speed train or the journey is long, you can choose to fly. Fuding is 230 km south of Fuzhou Changle International Airport and 100 km north of Wenzhou Longwan International Airport. After arriving at the airport, take a train to Taimushan Station or Fuding Station. Mount Taimu Scenic Area is famous for its four wonders: 'dangerous peaks, strange rocks, deep caves, and misty illusions.' Visiting all attractions takes 1-2 days. The scenic area implements a one-ticket system: 140 yuan/person (including scenic bus fee). Yushan Island Scenic Area: ticket 40 yuan/person, one-way ferry ticket 50 yuan, 30-minute crossing. Currently only two boats per day. Accommodation and food on Yushan Island are moderately developed, but public transportation is inconvenient, especially the narrow road around the island; mobile phone signals are often weak. It is not recommended to rent a car and drive yourself on the island. Many people camp on Tianhu Grassland to see the stars and sunrise. It is advisable to go in a group and have some outdoor experience; the wind is strong and thick fog often occurs—assess your capabilities. Niulanggang Seaside Scenic Area: ticket 40 yuan/person; rafting: 80 yuan/person per ride. Recommended souvenirs: Fuding white tea, seaweed, betel nut taro, etc.
