The Water's Glisten Under Sunny Skies - Misty Shadows of Xiapu, Ningde, Fujian

Xiapu is a county town, long renowned as the 'Key Passage between Fujian and Zhejiang,' now under Ningde, established during the Yongzheng reign of the Qing. Its mountains and the river are both named Xiapu, with the river flowing southwest and emptying east into the sea. As 'the sunrise casts its glow, the river gleams like rosy clouds,' thus 'the mountain is named after the river, and the county is named after the river.'

Xiapu lies in northeastern Fujian, once serving as the center of eastern Fujian. Its coastline winds for over a thousand li, far surpassing other counties in the province, standing alone at the top. The myriad islands, varied in form like twinkling stars, combine with the coastline, harbors, and islets to create Xiapu's scenic beauty, drawing crowds from all over the world in an endless stream.

Xiapu is naturally endowed with beauty—'With a glance she leaves a radiant glow, a long sigh carries the fragrance of orchids.' Long a land of splendid scenery, embracing mountains and hugging the sea, it was once plain and unadorned, thus lost among the masses! But in recent years, its reputation has soared, stunning the internet with its exquisite images—morning light at dawn, steeped in poetry; dusk's charm, shrouded in painterly grace.

'Now we step forward and start anew,' Xiapu has merely changed its plain face, yet 'the carved railings and jade steps should still be there,' enough to preen and charm guests from all directions. Xiapu's beauty lies in 'its leisure, depth, and refinement, combining all virtues,' and 'every tree and every stone invites lingering admiration.'

I have long harbored a desire to visit Xiapu, always alive in my heart. In this Guimao year (2023), 'it grew even stronger,' so after much planning, this trip finally came to be—a journey to Xiapu, Fujian, with a companion, 'to chant and admire the misty clouds,' to gaze upon the wind and moon, 'to see all the flowers of Chang'an in a single day.'

On that day, it was the beginning of the second lunar month, intercalary. Approaching the Si hour (9-11 a.m.), we arrived at the dock, where 'the crowd bustled, wheels grinding and shoulders rubbing.' Then we boarded the boat, filing in one by one. The boat slowly maneuvered, turned in an instant, and left the dock, speeding like a rabbit, heading for the deeper blue sea—Dong'an Fish Rafts.

Dong'an Fish Rafts were truly a delight to the eyes and heart: hundreds of thousands of aquaculture cages and over a thousand delicate houses spread across thousands of mu on the sea, like scattered flags and stars, stretching interwoven, vast and boundless, resembling a fishing village floating on the sea. Among them, cages lined up by the hundreds of thousands, stretching to the horizon; dwellings stood densely like scales, over a thousand; boats and skiffs shuttled back and forth, hundreds of them proudly; it looked like a proper town floating on the sea, majestic and vast, crisscrossed and staggered, earning the reputation of 'Venice on the Sea.' Fishermen busied themselves within, toiling year after year: 'A thousand siftings, a thousand washings, though hard, only after blowing away the sand does one find gold.'

Watching from morning to evening, during mealtime on the rafts, smoke curled from cooking fires; at dusk, lamps and candles blazed bright, forming a rural seascape painting—magnificent! Truly a spectacle beyond compare.

The harbor was shaped like a gourd, with the rafts gathered inside, surrounded by layered peaks and ridges that blocked wind and waves, ideal for marine aquaculture. Thus, sea cucumbers, abalone, yellow croaker, and more thrived here—too numerous to list! Alas, the sightseeing boats could not penetrate deep into the rafts, only circling around the periphery, looking east and west, like a dragonfly skimming the water—nothing more.

After the tour, we went ashore, 'then took a vehicle' and headed straight to Banyueli, about fifty li away.

Banyueli, once called 'Banluli,' is located in Xinan Town, Xiapu, a village where the She ethnic group gathers. Mount Mituo (Maitreya) is shaped like a crescent moon, and the village nestles at its foot, ancient in appearance, so it was renamed Banyueli (Half Moon Village), implying delicacy and poetic charm.

The She people have traditionally lived in the mountains, but the She ancestors of Banyueli abandoned the high peaks for the blue sea, making a living from the sea for about three hundred years! Thanks to the geomancer Lei Zhimao, a prominent figure of the Lei clan, who had a unique vision and saw the subtle. He realized that making a living near the sea far surpassed relying on the mountains, and that Banyueli was close to the official road, with people and carriages coming and going, making it suitable for trade and commerce. So he led his clan out of the deep mountains, near the sea, close to the official road, trading north and south with great joy. Thus, it is not an exaggeration to credit him with extraordinary achievements for the Lei clan!

A towering ancient banyan tree, over three hundred years old, stood tall and straight, more than fifty feet high, 'branches covering each other, leaves interlocking,' its canopy covering over three mu, standing upright in the village square, adjacent to the nearly three-hundred-year-old Longxi Palace. 'Its lofty branches brush the frost of nine skies, its shade brings summer coolness to houses,' truly a sacred object of Banyueli, thus also called the 'Half Moon Banyan.'

Longxi Palace, a relic of Banyueli, covers less than one mu, yet is grand and magnificent. Built with a hard山顶 ridge beam and穿斗 wooden structure, it is a place for She villagers to worship deities. It was also the work of Lei Zhimao, the ancestor of the Lei family, who personally drew the plans and supervised the construction, working diligently for about a year to complete it.

Around noon, we had a meal near Banyueli. Shortly after eating, we took a vehicle to Xiawei Island.

Xiawei Island, also known as Xiayu Islet, is located in Lüxia Village, Changchun Town, covering less than 150 mu—a tiny place, yet full of beautiful scenery, intoxicating the eyes and soul.

'The east wind acts as a messenger of warmth,' so the afternoon was cozy. Wandering in the sunlight, at first it felt gentle, but after a while, it became scorching. Xiawei Island, though small, was fascinating, naturally full of charm. The sightseeing plank road rose and fell, winding under the white clouds and blue sky, close to the deep, clear sea, and spacious and dust-free, 'sometimes I raise my head and gaze far away'!

To be fair, Xiawei Island only offered the vast sea and sky, but its sea-erosion cave was the highlight, drawing crowds 'bustling, wheels grinding and shoulders rubbing.' The sea-erosion cave was a unique spot—shallow and narrow. Standing inside and looking out, the cave's edge, though irregular, formed a natural frame, filled with the sky, the ocean, reefs, and even faint figures—a moment of beauty beyond description.

Entering and leaving the sea-erosion cave was quite difficult, requiring climbing with hands and feet. Yet, people, moved by the delightful scenery, 'how could they fear the dangers and hardships?' still flocked there, jostling each other. Returning along the same path, outside the cave, the ground was covered with black, slippery reefs of various sizes and shapes. When the tide came, they were submerged; when the tide receded, they were exposed. For millions of years, they have stood here, facing the surging sea, unafraid of its hardness, nor disdainful of its softness.

Standing on the reefs, looking around, the sky and sea were one color. White clouds floated softly between the clear sky and the blue waves. Occasionally, seabirds flew by, adding a dynamic beauty. At dusk, the red sun set in the west, 'the sunset dims the clear blue sky,' 'rosy clouds float in the water'—a magnificent sight!

The next afternoon, 'the wind blows gently, the water soaks the clear sky at dawn,' though 'a light overcast could not be dispelled,' yet it pleased the eyes and heart.

'The Town of Light and Shadow'—Sansha Town in Xiapu—is a coastal town blessed with unique advantages, boasting 80 li of coastline and nearly a hundred tiny islands. Therefore, the town government has strived to create a space integrating ocean, countryside, photography, stone houses, and other elements. The Light and Shadow Boardwalk is a crucial part of this plan.

The Light and Shadow Boardwalk stretches over 20 li, covering the coastline from Gutong Village to Yugongting Village under the town's jurisdiction. Embracing the mountains and hugging the sea, it winds and twists like a jade belt around the waist, dotted with over a dozen platforms for photography, sightseeing, and leisure, encompassing the beauty of the blue sea and sky, and the splendid scenes of sunrise and moon.

Dongbi is a village under Sansha Town, and its sea-viewing boardwalk is a segment of Sansha's Light and Shadow Boardwalk, winding over four and a half li, refreshing the mind and opening the eyes to the unity of sky and sea, the openness of mountains and ocean.

Strolling along the boardwalk, one's eyes are dazzled and cannot take in all the beauty—not only due to its meandering snake-like path but also its staggered ups and downs. The former fully displays the gentleness of the water; the latter vigorously shows the ruggedness of the mountains. 'The wind blows gently,' stirring up waves that lightly strike the scattered reefs along the shore, persistently sending up sprays of jade pearls with a clattering sound. Gazing into the distance, islands, boats, hills, and houses all fall within sight. Though the sky was overcast at that time, everything my eyes experienced was deeply moving.

The boardwalk extends leisurely, rising and falling, following the terrain and platforms. Its width is less than ten feet, yet enough for two people to pass each other. The surface is laid with wood in some parts, keeping to tradition, or paved with stone in others, adapting to local conditions—thus combining elegance with frugality, achieving both the fish and the bear's paw.

The hills along the coast are sparsely dotted with guesthouses and inns, facing the sea, blooming in spring. Far away, one can see the unity of sky and sea; close by, listen to the singing of the sea waves; view 'the morning sun mixing purple and green,' and gaze at 'the evening moon with shifting light.' Thus, staying overnight here would be only natural. Regrettably, it did not happen, leaving a lingering regret.

After the You hour (5-7 p.m.), it was about to rain, 'and my empty stomach growled unbearably from hunger.' Just in time, we returned home to feast heartily, 'the smoothness of the spoonful and the fragrance filling the room.'

21 April 2023.