Xiapu Photography Trip During the 2023 May Day Holiday
The three-year pandemic had pent up the entire nation, and this May Day holiday, as expected, saw a surge of revenge travel. Tourist attractions across the country were bustling, but traffic conditions were a nightmare. On the first day of the holiday, highways across the country became parking lots, which was not surprising. Even at Shanghai Hongqiao Station, all high-speed train tickets were sold out, making both self-driving and public transportation bottlenecks, showing how hot this short holiday was for tourism.
I was no exception. Even though my wife and daughter couldn't join me because of tutoring, I decided to go solo and have some fun. At first, I had no clear goal. With just three to five days, I couldn't go too far, so I limited my scope to East China. I posted a message on my company's forum looking for travel buddies, but no one responded, so I had to rely on myself. In the end, I settled on Xiapu, Fujian – a relatively niche but not completely obscure place. I did some homework, managed to grab round-trip train tickets, booked a homestay, and was ready to go.
Xiapu is a small county on the East China Sea, under the jurisdiction of Ningde City, Fujian Province. Its fame comes from some photographic works that have spread. The long coastline breeds diverse landforms such as islands, beaches, and mudflats, along with the local unique nearshore aquaculture, providing rare and rich photographic scenes. Most of Xiapu's tourist attractions are photography spots. In this sense, Xiapu is not a popular tourist destination in the eyes of the general public, but a paradise for photography enthusiasts.
However, those stunning photos are not easily obtained just by coming to Xiapu. They require the right timing, location, and people. The right timing means clear weather and恰到好处的 clouds and rays to capture the brilliance of sunrise and sunset. The right location means mastering the tides to find the best scenery between mudflats and shallow seas. The right people means catching the season when Xiapu fishermen are "farming" seafood in the sea to see the unique Xiapu culture.
Let's talk about the conclusion first: During this trip to Xiapu, it was cloudy and rainy for three days, and only one day was clear, but even then, it lacked clouds to make it interesting. Although I insisted on getting up at 4 a.m. every day to chase the sunrise, I was disappointed. At some scenic spots, the tide was low when I arrived, and there was no activity from fishermen, so they were either closed or had nothing to see. So I didn't get any great shots this time, just some records of being there. I probably only saw a tiny fraction of Xiapu's beauty. Standing at those photography points, looking at the scenery, and relying on my imagination to add the渲染 of mist and clouds and the figures of fishermen at work, I felt it was still worth the trip.
But this trip wasn't entirely without gain. In three and a half days, I covered most of the photography spots. The pitfalls I encountered, if shared, could be a good reference for later visitors. The Xiapu travel guides on Mafengwo are outdated and from who knows when. So I'm writing this travelogue as a guide, not elaborating much on the scenic spots, hoping to provide useful route information for friends who want to go.
This year's May Day holiday was borrowed two days from before. To avoid the travel rush, I took half a day off and set off on the afternoon of April 28. There are not many trains from Nanjing to Xiapu, about three or four a day. Here's a tip: you can transfer in Hangzhou. There are many more high-speed trains from Hangzhou to Xiapu, and from Nanjing to Hangzhou, there's one every half hour. So there are more options, making it easier to snatch tickets during peak season. The same goes for the return trip. I bought a direct train back to Nanjing, but it had to go via Shanghai, taking seven to eight hours. Xiapu to Hangzhou takes only four hours, and Hangzhou to Nanjing takes a little over an hour, including transfer time, which is much faster.
I arrived at Xiapu Railway Station at 9 p.m. on the 28th. The homestay I booked was in Beiqi, very close to the county town. It took about 20 minutes by Didi from the station. Beiqi is the nearest place to the beach in Xiapu, and its mudflats and sunrise are highly recommended. But staying here is not ideal because the road to Beiqi Village is very narrow, and you have to pass through the village's only small street to get to the parking lot. During peak hours, it's often congested. I can't speak for accommodation elsewhere, but generally, if you want to see the sunrise at a certain place, it's best to stay nearby so you can sleep in a bit.
After checking into the Beiqi homestay, I chatted with the owner. I didn't have travel companions, so I had to plan on my own. I decided to go to Yushan Island on the eastern route because the island has a scenic area shuttle bus, so I wouldn't have to rely on a chartered car.
**April 29 (Day 1)** was the eastern route: Huazhu Sunrise, Yushan Island Tianhu Scenic Area, Yushan Island Round-the-Island Tour, and Dongbi Village Sunset. This route can be adjusted. For example, you could skip the round-the-island tour and return to Sansha earlier, stopping by Xiao Hao Village on the way back, which is also a great spot for sunset. Or you could stay on the island for a more in-depth tour and return to Sansha Town the next morning.
Just after 4 a.m., the Didi I booked arrived on time. We drove for about 40 minutes to Huazhu Village. The sunrise viewing platform was easy to find and quite large, with a few people already waiting. From this vantage point, you could see fishing raft buoys on the nearby sea surface, and in the middle distance, Fuyao Islands. We just waited for the sun to emerge from the sea. But the weather was uncooperative – clouds and mist were thick at the junction of sea and sky. By the time we saw the sun, it was already quite high. Still, compared to the following days, we did see the rising sun on our first day, so it wasn't a complete failure. Compared to other places I went later, Huazhu is the most recommended spot for sunrise. With its rich sea landscape, combined with morning glow and the red sun in the east, it must be stunning.
At 7 a.m., I headed from Huazhu to Sansha Pier to catch a boat, a distance of about 4-5 kilometers. I couldn't get a taxi or bus there, so I had to walk for an hour. At that moment, I realized the importance of having a car. Fortunately, a passing car picked me up and gave me a ride halfway up the mountain road, saving me a lot of walking. Following the signs to the pier, I arrived at Sansha Passenger Terminal. Normally, the first ferry is at 9:30, with a round-trip ticket costing 100 yuan. During holidays, additional trips are added, so if there are enough people, we could depart earlier, but I still had to wait until nearly 9 a.m. to board. In the meantime, I had breakfast at the waiting room and rested a bit.
After about half an hour on the boat, I landed at Mazu Village on Yushan Island. Right next to the pier was the visitor center. The traditional route on Yushan Island is to go up the mountain to see two Tianhu (Heavenly Lakes). At the visitor center, I bought a scenic area ticket, which included round-trip shuttle bus for 76 yuan per person. The bus wound 8 kilometers up the mountain to the top, where the Big Tianhu Lake appeared before me, surrounded by large tea plantations, like a mirror, refreshing the mind. Then I walked along the lakeside path to another hilltop, where I could see the Small Tianhu Lake. There were several viewing platforms, claiming a view of both lake and sea, but the mist hadn't dissipated, so the distant sea and sky merged, and I could only see the sky, not the sea. I could also go down to the lakeside, where there were vast grasslands and wild horses galloping. On a sunny day, the grasslands, lakes, and islands would complement each other, living up to the reputation of being one of China's ten most beautiful sea islands as selected by "China National Geographic." And it's curious how such a large freshwater lake exists on top of an island in the middle of the ocean.
It took about two hours to leisurely stroll around the Big and Small Tianhu. I returned to Mazu Village by shuttle bus around 12:00 p.m. The village was lively, with many places to eat. Fuding meat slices and fish balls are local snacks. I had lunch, and since it was still early for the return trip, I bought a ticket for the island's round-the-island tour at the visitor center. The all-access ticket cost 30 yuan, with stops at Yuniao Island, Mangdang Village, Dongjiao Village, and Zao'ao Village. Zao'ao Village was the farthest, with many homestays and attractions. Afraid I wouldn't make it back in time, I skipped it and only visited Dongjiao Village and Yuniao Island. Dongjiao Village is a relatively large fishing village. There's a glass viewing platform built on a high point, offering a panoramic view of the village and harbor. Following a downhill road from the bus stop, I could walk down to the village and all the way to the seaport. Local fishermen were going about their daily lives, and I felt a bit out of place with my camera. Mangdang Village has a beach called Moon Bay, but I didn't stop; instead, I took a short walk around Yuniao Island, where a row of homestays faces the sea, named after the twelve zodiac signs. The white houses had a Mediterranean flair.
Returning to the pier, the usual return ferry was at 3:00 p.m., but during the May Day holiday, it was postponed to 4:30 p.m. I waited another hour, somewhat regretting not visiting Zao'ao Village.
When I got back to Sansha Pier, it was almost 5 p.m. It started raining, so sunset was out of the question, but I still wanted to check in at Dongbi. Most of the people on the same boat had left by self-driving or chartered cars, leaving only two or three of us. Hailing a Didi yielded no response, and I felt utterly helpless. I had to walk towards the town in the rain. In my desperation, someone finally accepted my order – a driver who had just brought a passenger from Xiapu and was returning. He knew that after Dongbi, I still needed to go back to the county town, and he offered to wait for me. We agreed on 100 yuan to take me back to Xiapu. I ended up chartering his car for the next two days.
Dongbi Village also has a well-built viewing platform called the Light and Shadow Boardwalk. From here, watching fishing boats return to port, fishing rafts in formation, and the lingering glow of sunset is the highlight of Dongbi sunset. At that moment, in the rain, I could only imagine this beautiful scene. I walked back and forth along the boardwalk and then returned to Xiapu county town. On the way, I passed Xiao Hao Village, another sunset photography spot, but I didn't stop.
In the county town, on Taikang Road, there's a Seafood Street where every restaurant was packed. I couldn't get a seat alone, so I found a seafood barbecue shop and ordered a seafood platter to reward myself for a day of hard travel. At that time, the homestay owner helped me contact two Shanghai girls who had rented a car and were also eating nearby. I met up with them and together we returned to Beiqi Village, planning the next day's itinerary.
**April 30 (Day 2)** followed the most popular East Sea Line No. 1 (i.e., the southern route): we visited Xiawei Island, Dajing Beach, Dajing Castle, and Gaoluo Beach. If you have a tighter schedule, you could also include Beidou Beach for sunrise and Lüxia Lighthouse for sunset.
We got up at 4 a.m. again to watch the sunrise at Beiqi, but the weather was even worse – the entire sky was covered with thick clouds. We only saw the sky gradually brightening, but long past sunrise time, we saw no sun at all. Instead, it started drizzling. Disappointed, we went back, took some photos of the gradually rising tide on the mudflats, had breakfast, and went back to sleep. At nearly 9 a.m., we gathered and set off.
Scenic spots on the East Sea Line No. 1 are located on the Dongchong Peninsula. There's only one road from the county town, and it was heavily congested. Thirty-odd kilometers took an hour and a half to drive. Along the way, there's a Donggua Mountain viewing platform. At low tide, you can only see a stretch of mudflat. In the evening when the tide rises, you might see a sea sunset. Considering the tides, our first stop was the farthest, Xiawei Island Scenic Area, which has a popular sea-eroded cave that can only be entered at low tide, allowing you to take photos reminiscent of a Windows desktop wallpaper. Unfortunately, although we caught the low tide, the rocks were slippery after the rain, and the cave was closed. Xiawei Island juts into the sea, and the scenery was decent, but with the cloudy and rainy weather, everything was dull. The sea wasn't green, the sky wasn't blue, and everything looked listless.
We could only find a small beach to play around. There were huge rocks eroded by seawater, and hiding inside, we managed to take photos similar to the sea-eroded cave. Red and blue buoys in the sea were arranged in neat rows, with oysters hanging below in the water – a common type of aquaculture in Xiapu's shallow seas. Someone then said the cave had reopened, so we went back to the depths of Xiawei Island. The rocks around the cave were crowded with tourists. To enter the cave, you had to climb down the rocks, and there was only one path, so we decided not to join the congestion. Just then, a wild goat jumped out from the bushes, running briskly on the steep cliffs, as if mocking the clumsy climbing of the tourists, causing a stir.
Although Lüxia Lighthouse wasn't far, we needed to go further south. After discussion, we gave up and turned back to Dajing Beach, the largest beach in Xiapu and a great place to play in the sand and waves. The weather gradually cleared up. As we walked to the edge of the beach, there were fewer people, and it was very pleasant to sit on the sand and bask in the sun. However, the Shanghai girls had scraped someone else's car in the parking lot of Xiawei Island and needed to go back to deal with the accident. So I went alone to nearby Dajing Castle.
Dajing Castle is not far from Dajing Beach, a ten-minute walk away. It was built over 600 years ago to defend against Japanese pirates. It's a small village with walls, gates, and a moat – a small but complete package. Huge banyan trees on the city wall have grown into the bricks. The bluestone pavement and street pavilions inside the city are remnants from hundreds of years ago. Dilapidated old houses mix with renovated new ones, along with fields. Walking in the village and on the city wall felt like traveling through time.
As the sun began to set, I wanted to find a nearby place to watch the sunset. I finally managed to hail a Didi, wanting to go to Haijiao Island, but was told the road was restricted and would need a long detour. In the end, I went back to Xiawei Island to meet up with the girls who had rented the car, and we went together to Gaoluo Beach. On the way, I watched the sunset slowly descend – it was a rare opportunity to see the sunset, but we couldn't be at a photography spot. Quite regrettable.
The return trip was still congested. By the time we reached Gaoluo Beach, it was completely dark. However, Gaoluo Beach at night might be more fun than during the day. At low tide, the seawater recedes far away, and the beach was set up with night snack stalls, vendors selling fireworks and sky lanterns, and even cars could drive onto the sand. After dinner, we set off fireworks with others, dispelling the regrets of the day. There are many homestays next to Gaoluo Beach, so it was lively at night. But seeing the litter everywhere, I couldn't help worrying about what Gaoluo Beach would look like in the daytime. Maybe someone would clean up, maybe it would be washed into the sea by the tide – I don't know.
We returned to the homestay at 11 p.m. The Shanghai girls and I parted ways. After two days of suffering without a car, and knowing that the next day's weather forecast was good, I decided to charter a car on my own even though I couldn't find a companion. Before bed, I contacted the driver who had brought me back from Sansha on the first day. We agreed on 500 yuan, and I no longer had to worry about transportation.
**May 1 (Day 3)** took the western route, with a packed itinerary. We visited nine spots in total: Shatangli Sunrise, Beidou Beach, Hanjiang, Shajiang, Weijiang, Dong'an Island, Banyueli She Ethnic Culture Village, Yantian, and finally, Nanwan Oracle Bone Script for sunset. Originally, I planned to watch the sunset at Xiao Hao and also pass by the Ewan Mangrove photography spot, but we missed both due to unfavorable tides. The itinerary seemed dense, but most points were photography spots that didn't require long stays, and the distances between them were short, so it was quite relaxed.
As usual, we got up at 4 a.m. The charter driver picked me up and drove for 30 minutes to the Shatangli viewing platform, located on the Dandong County Road next to Dongchong Road. There was a small rest pavilion at the corner, not large but with an open view. To the east, you could see the sea divided into patches – I don't know what was being farmed. The sun rose from the sea level, but although the weather was clear, the junction of sea and sky was still covered by clouds. A bit of morning glow peeked through the sky, and by the time the sun showed its face, it was already dazzling. Another disappointment.
As the sky got brighter, we drove east for a few minutes to Beidou Beach. You could also watch the sunrise here, but there were no terraced sea fields as a foreground, only scattered fishing boats on the beach. I was a bit surprised that Beidou Beach didn't look like a scenic spot. The beach was littered with trash left by campers. I saw a few camping tourists starting a fire to cook breakfast. Yellow and purple wildflowers bloomed on the beach with dew. If not for the surrounding mess, it would have been quite picturesque.
Then we headed west along Funing Bay. The mudflats and shallow seas here looked like pastures and fields, all "farmed" with endless kelp in the sea. Bamboo poles were inserted in the sea in orderly rows, forming spectacular lines. It was also the season for harvesting kelp. Fishermen pulled strings of kelp out of the sea and hung them on bamboo poles. When the tide receded, the kelp would dry and shrink, then be taken ashore for further sun-drying. The spots of Hanjiang, Shajiang, and Weijiang mainly feature the scene of fishermen harvesting kelp.
But each place had its own characteristics. The bamboo poles in Hanjiang were arranged in straight lines. I heard you could go up to nearby Gehong Mountain to see them, but we didn't find it and stumbled into the viewing platform of Duobao Zen Temple instead, which had great views but was soon shooed away by nuns. The S-bend of Shajiang is the most famous. We found the No. 2 Middle School of Xiapu County. During the holiday, we could park in the school playground for 10 yuan, then go up to the adjacent viewing building, specially built for photography, which charged 20 yuan. From the rooftop, we had a panoramic view: distant islands drifting misty and floating rafts for oysters, near me were dense and orderly bamboo poles with fishing boats shuttling back and forth, and fishermen working hard – all became the scenery in our eyes.
From Shajiang to Weijiang, it was farther, about 20-30 minutes by car. There is a small island in the middle of the sea, known as Mantou Mountain (Steamed Bun Mountain). At low tide, a path leads to the island, and it's also a sunrise photography spot. But at noon, it looked unremarkable, and the path was submerged by the tide.
Another ten minutes of driving brought us to Dong'an Island. Previously, you had to take a boat to the island, but now a bridge has been built, so you can drive directly. Here, the highlight is the Dong'an Fishing Rafts, known as the "Venice of the Sea." Hundreds of thousands of houses and net cages float on the sea, clustered or scattered, forming a sea community – very spectacular.
The next stop was Banyueli She Ethnic Culture Village. We returned from Dong'an Island to Weijiang and then left the coast for the mountains. Banyueli has a history of over 300 years. Villagers have moved to new houses nearby, and the ancient village is preserved intact, showcasing authentic She ethnic culture to tourists. The village is small with not many tourists; you can walk around in less than half an hour.
Heading north along Dandong County Road, it took about 20 minutes to reach Nanwan. But it was low tide, and the photography spot owner suggested we come back after 5 p.m., so we went to Yantian first, passing by the Eling Mangrove photography spot, which was also closed due to low tide (only open in the morning). Yantian She Ethnic Township is known for the humanistic life of the Lianjia boat people. According to old guides, we looked for Beidou Village and Diaoqi Village, but there were no Lianjia boat people left. Only in Nantang Village did we see a sign for the Lianjia boat people photography spot, with a few dilapidated boats stranded on the mudflat that used to be their homes. Some people were building new boats, and when asked, they said they no longer lived on the boats. The so-called "Gypsies of the Sea" had become history.
We returned to Nanwan, famous for its oracle bone script and colorful net enclosures. The entrance fee was 30 yuan. The tide was rising, submerging the mudflats, and some sea bases emerged from the water, forming magical patterns and lines resembling oracle bone script. Nearby were colorful net enclosures, drawing large and small circles on the sea surface. It was sunset time, and the golden glow of the setting sun dyed the sea yellow. Finally, I saw a sunset.
Back at the Beiqi homestay, I had always wondered: Beiqi sunrise is a famous Xiapu spot, and I had stayed there for several days, but the sea and mudflats seemed unremarkable. The owner explained that Beiqi's most beautiful scenery is around the winter solstice, when the sun rises from the sea between two mountains due east, and the sea is densely covered with rafts for cultivating seaweed. By now, the seaweed had been harvested, the rafts dismantled, and the sun had shifted to rise behind the mountains. Even if it weren't cloudy, the sunrise wouldn't be great. This again confirmed the importance of timing, location, and people.
**May 2 (Day 4)** was only half a day, I had to take the train back to Nanjing in the afternoon. So I only visited the northern route: Chixi Dujiabu and Yangjiaxi Rongfeng Park, passing by the Wayao photography spot on the way. If you had enough time, you could go to Taimu Mountain or catch the 1 p.m. speedboat to the increasingly popular Sixuang Island, covering most of Xiapu's attractions.
Still, I got up at 4 a.m. Following the owner's suggestion, I went out on a fishing boat to watch the sunrise, paying 20 yuan. But it was cloudy again. The boatman wryly said that there were stars all over the sky at 2 or 3 a.m., and he demonstrated casting a net. I drifted on the sea for an hour, freezing in the cold weather. I did see some floating, disassembled seaweed racks.
At 7:30, I said goodbye to the homestay owner and took the charter car to Yangjiaxi. The round-trip charter fee for that day was 200 yuan. Navigating to Yangjiaxi led to a rafting scenic area; Rongfeng Park is at the end of the rafting route, not the same place. Yangjiaxi rafting charges per bamboo raft, which can seat six people, costing 300 yuan per raft. The weather was bad, and there weren't many tourists. Naturally, I couldn't go rafting alone. There were other attractions like a glass bridge, and further ahead, the Jiulixi Scenic Area offered similar rafting and other amusement facilities, none of which interested me. On the way back, in Chixi Village, I found a place called Dujiabu, which was an unusual spot. This was an old village over 400 years old. In 2016, someone invested to restore the old as old, developing it into an ancient residential scenic area, but later abandoned it. Now it's an ancient village without tickets or maintenance. The dilapidated houses and facilities – I couldn't tell whether they showed the vicissitudes of history or years of neglect. Occasionally, tour groups came to visit a relatively intact mansion displaying poverty alleviation materials. It turned out that Chixi is China's first village for poverty alleviation, where the massive battle against poverty began.
Finally, I went to Rongfeng Park, where the ticket was 18 yuan. The old man leading a cow and the girl herding geese under the big banyan trees have become performance projects. The old man charges 200-300 yuan per performance. A tour group happened to pool money for it, and I was lucky to take some photographs. The girl herding geese cost 100 yuan per session, but few people were interested. However, some kids paid to go in and chase the geese, turning it into a parent-child activity. Nearby, people were burning dead branches to create smoke, simulating a misty morning, but without sunlight, there was no Tyndall effect of light rays.
On the return trip, I passed the Wayao drifting net photography spot, but there were only a few bamboo poles stuck in the river, with no drifting net and no fisherman. It was utterly unremarkable.
By 1 p.m., I returned to the county town, still two or three hours before departure. There were no other attractions nearby, so I found a place for lunch, rested, and then embarked on the journey home. The train bumped along for nearly eight hours, arriving in Nanjing just before midnight.
**Summary:** Although it was the May Day peak season, there weren't many tourists in Xiapu. It wasn't as crowded as other places. Except for Xiawei Island, the photography spots I visited were very quiet, so Xiapu is still a niche destination. There aren't many paid spots; some photography points charge a small fee. Apart from accommodation, the biggest expense was transportation. For a photography trip to Xiapu, you must have a car – either self-driving, chartering, or renting. All the photography spots are in townships tens of kilometers away, and public transportation is unreliable. You can get a taxi in the county town, but it's hard to get one for the return trip. Since I was traveling alone, I didn't drive myself. At first, I was reluctant to charter a car alone, so even though I had a well-planned route, I couldn't visit every spot and even risked being stranded. The routes I took over these days, based on predecessors' experience, were reasonably arranged. However, you should ask locals about the daily tide times and adjust accordingly. With a car and good weather, you can appreciate as much of Xiapu's beauty as possible.
Many years ago, there were travel websites where you could post travel information to find companions. Local youth hostels would also bring solo travelers together quickly. Nowadays, there's no such website. Everything relies on mobile phones. Travel apps segment the market to cover various tours, but they require at least two people to form a group, and there are no platforms for solo travelers to communicate. There are some WeChat groups, but they're not easy to find. It seems young people now rely on recommendations and companions from Xiaohongshu and Douyin. I guess I'm out of touch.
But I still love the feeling of traveling alone – not having to adjust to others' schedules, free and spontaneous. On Xiapu's beaches, I saw several signs for "China Golden Coast Scenic Highway," which is National Highway G228 from Liaoning to Guangxi, connecting China's 7,800-kilometer coastline. I couldn't help but feel a surge of ambition to drive along G228 in the future. The regrets of this Xiapu photography trip might be made up for then.
