"Viewing Mountains, Listening to the Sea" – A 10-Day Self-Drive Tour Along the Southeastern Route (Zhejiang, Fujian, Guangdong)

A summer family trip. Originally planned to drive west from Zhejiang through Jiangxi, Hubei, Hunan, Chongqing, and finally to Sichuan, but had to cancel because I recently couldn't eat spicy food. Changed plans on the spot, spending half a day looking at maps, planning the route, and booking accommodations: heading south from Zhejiang through Lishui, Ningde, Xiapu, Fuzhou, Xiamen, and finally to the Chaoshan area in Guangdong. This route offers both mountain and water scenery, cultural history, and the chance to enjoy the sea meeting the sky, as well as tasting the specialties of Fujian and Guangdong.

On July 6th, our family of three woke up naturally and set off!

First stop: Lishui Guyan Huaxiang Scenic Area

Stayed nearby at the Liuguang Jinnian Guesthouse, which offered great value and convenient access to attractions and dining.

Guyan Huaxiang is perfect for a leisurely stroll, enjoying its green tree-lined paths, babbling brooks, sunset, returning sails, and morning birdsong... It makes you forget the hustle and bustle of the city and the stress of a fast-paced life, as if you're in a paradise. I really love the beauty of Jiangnan, especially the landscape paintings with streams flowing around.

At the pier, you can take a boat to see the river scenery, the ancient dam, and the painting village. You can also explore the characteristic commercial street and taste freshly caught stream fish. I recommend Fengyuan Stream Fish Restaurant for its braised hehua fish (stream fish) and stir-fried coral fungus with shredded pork—fresh and delicious.

Second stop: Lishui Yunhe Rice Terraces Scenic Area

Stayed at a rice field guesthouse on the mountain, about 20 km from the scenic area, expecting primitive rice fields, cloud mountains, and sunrise views. We drove up a winding mountain road and arrived to find construction nearby, making parking difficult. The guesthouse had a stylish design, but the rice field outside the room looked overgrown with weeds. The room layout was a bit lacking, especially the washbasin and toilet area—the dark background wall was a bit creepy; a brighter beige would have been better. The overall reception and service details still need improvement. The restaurant and bar had a nice atmosphere. We ordered a small pot of chicken (198 yuan), stir-fried sweet potato leaves, and garlic-fried long beans. The ingredients were fresh and local, a bit pricey, but understandable given the altitude of over 500 meters. The whole family felt the nearly 1,000 yuan accommodation wasn't great value. Fortunately, the weather was good, with beautiful evening clouds. We watched the dusk scene near the pool under construction. The next day, I got up at 4:30 to watch the sunrise, and I could see Nanshan Lake below—a partial redemption.

Visited the Yunhe Rice Terraces. I think it's worth staying one night on the mountain to see the sunset, sunrise, and terraces, and if lucky, a sea of clouds at sunrise. If I come again, I'd stay in a tent cabin or at the Yunhe Yunyi's Yard Villa, and just wander around the fields for a grounded feeling.

Third stop: Ningde, Fujian; Xiapu Donghai No. 1 (around-island self-drive); Xiawei Island

Stayed at the Hilton Hampton Inn in Ningde Lithium Battery Town, great value. Alternatively, you could stay directly in Xiapu or Sansha town at a guesthouse.

The self-drive along Xiapu Donghai No. 1 offers beautiful coastal views. Drive slowly to Xiawei Island. Unfortunately, the tide was high, so we couldn't go down to the caves and rocks—would have been better otherwise. Still, the sea view was beautiful.

Fourth stop: Xiapu Dongbi Sunset, Sishuang Islands

Took a 5 yuan/person shuttle from Xiawei Island to the parking lot, then drove to the guesthouse Xiapu Manqi Shaxiao Inn. Along the way, we had lunch at Zheng Erxiao Seafood Flagship Restaurant in Xiapu county town. My husband said it was the best seafood meal in Xiapu: salt and pepper shrimp, scallion oil razor clams, Cantonese-style steamed sea pomfret, boiled red-shell shrimp...

The guesthouse is in Sansha town, just a few hundred meters past Dongbi Village. Its layout, design, and facilities are good, facing the sea. After a rest and some pool time, around 6:00 PM, we quickly cleaned up and headed to Dongbi Village to watch the sunset. The bridge and its surroundings were packed with people watching the sunset. The setting sun, boats anchored in the harbor—the sunset here has a unique beauty!

There are many guesthouses and restaurants in the area, and a trendy alley where many girls line up for photos. We strolled around and had dinner at a highly-rated restaurant, Abao's Home Cooking. Our family of three ordered five dishes, and they didn't disappoint: stir-fried crushed snails, steamed small yellow croaker, fish ball and meat swallow seaweed soup—all delicious. Minnan paste was similar to Zhejiang's minced pork and sweet potato vermicelli. We couldn't finish it and took it home. The owner was honest, using fresh ingredients prepared that day.

After a night's rest, we had booked a speedboat to the Sishuang Islands for 8:30 the next day, 500 yuan/person. It's better than taking the ferry from Jishi Pier for 100 yuan/person—the money is worth spending: about 28 people on the speedboat, 40 minutes to the islands, visiting three islands: Dongshuang Island (2 hours on land), an island full of seagulls (viewed from the boat—the captain took us around several times, thrilling), and a small island with a cave (1 hour on land). We returned to the pier under Dongbi Bridge around 2-3 PM. In the deep sea, the water was azure blue, the sea and sky merged, the sky was clear, and seagulls flew... This scene is etched in my memory.

Fifth stop: Fuzhou—Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, Fujian Museum

Stayed at the Atour Hotel near Three Lanes and Seven Alleys in Fuzhou. I registered as a member, which gave me benefits like late checkout by 2 hours and early check-in. Located in the city center, near Metro Line 1, across the main road from the scenic area. The hotel is surrounded by shopping malls and various restaurants. We parked in the nearby mall's parking lot, 5 yuan/hour, no cap.

The next morning, we had breakfast at a nearby 'Ruifeng Snacks' store: a luxurious version of 'lahua'—similar to our dry soup noodles with various toppings; also good sand tea noodles; and steamed buns, 'bao zi bu you'—so delicious! No wonder the saying goes, 'Baozi cures all ills.'

'One area of Three Lanes and Seven Alleys holds half of modern Chinese history.' It is the largest and best-preserved Ming and Qing dynasty ancient architectural block in China. The morning was too short to explore fully. We entered through Anmin Lane (next to Starbucks, East Fourth exit), walked to the central axis Nanhou Street, checked in at the love tree, Wenru Lane, Ta Lane, Langguan Lane, relaxed at Lollipop (had a latte, lemon jasmine, small pear soup, and a slice of kaya butter toast—great), then passed through Huang Lane, Yijin Lane, and returned via Anmin Lane. We didn't have time to see Gong Lane (Guanglu Lane, Jibi Lane, Yangqiao Lane have been converted into roads, so only two lanes and five alleys remain).

After 1 PM, we packed up and checked out, then headed directly to Fujian Museum. We visited the 'Ancient Fujian Civilization Light' on the first floor and the 'Chinese White to the World – Dehua White Porcelain Exhibition'. I love looking at pottery, porcelain, and jade—admiring the ancient people's superb skills and wisdom. Truly, hidden talents abound among the people!

Sixth stop: Xiamen

Left Fujian Museum around 4 PM and drove to Xiamen. Since our child had an online English lesson in the evening, we searched on the way and found that Xiamen also has 'Zui Deyi' restaurant—affordable and delicious, every dish is safe to order. We checked into Hilton Hampton Inn Xiamen City Square, arriving around 7:10 PM. Grabbed the iPad and hurried.

Too tired, we fell asleep quickly.

Next morning, we wanted to go to Gulangyu Island but found that morning ferry tickets were sold out (Xiamen Ferry Terminal—Sanqiutian Pier, 8 minutes). Only evening tickets were available, round trip 35 yuan/person. This time we didn't plan to stay overnight on the island, so we needed daytime tickets. After some hesitation, we managed to buy three tickets for the 3:30 PM comfortable passenger ferry from Xiamen Cruise Center Xiagu Pier—Neicuoao Pier (20 minutes), 150 yuan total.

It was already 10 AM, so we decided to visit Xiamen University and the island ring road. Drove to Xiamen University but found it closed to the public. Nanputuo Temple nearby had no same-day reservation slots, and it was too hot for the botanical garden. We parked at the visitor center of Xiamen University (later found out parking was 10 yuan/hour, total 100 yuan—pretty steep). At the entrance, we encountered a tout (who seemed helpful, suggesting how to tour the island, take buses, sail, and that Gulangyu was fine to visit at night). We took a taxi for a 'one-stop service' to a sailing agent. Although I was suspicious, I impulsively bought three tickets for a sailing trip, 198 yuan/person, billed as a 40-minute sail to see dolphins, the undersea world, and Kinmen Island, plus a free ring-road drive.

At the Wanghu Sailing Experience official ticket office at Wuyuan Bay Yacht Port (Xiamen International Yacht Club), we waited a long time (at least 1.5 hours) before boarding. The short trip in the inner sea made it unlikely to see dolphins. We could vaguely see Kinmen Bridge (which is also visible from the ring road). After disembarking, we waited another hour for the agent to pick us up—in the hot weather, ugh! The ticket price was also 198 yuan/person (later a driver told us tickets could be bought for tens of yuan each), and a private boat for 5 people would only cost 540 yuan, without wasting so much time. This was the only unpleasant experience in Xiamen. Some say the three things to avoid in Xiamen are: sailing, eating seafood, and shopping—then you generally won't be cheated. Actually, if you've never been sailing, it's fine, but the feeling of being scammed is bad and damages the city's image. I visited Xiamen 11 years ago and still had good impressions; this time there was a bit of unhappiness...

In the afternoon, we arrived at Gulangyu Island. We had our second meal at around 4 PM, and I especially want to mention 'Xiao Erlang Seafood Restaurant (Neicuoao Open Garden Branch).' The 298 yuan Boston lobster set included 2 cold dishes and 6 hot dishes—a feast! Our son exclaimed how enjoyable it was! Too bad we didn't have time for another meal. Father and son bought a combo ticket for Sunlight Rock (Zheng Chenggong statue) and Shuzhuang Garden, but after climbing Sunlight Rock, they found the attractions closed at 6 PM—what a pity. Meanwhile, I walked up and down, seeing many familiar buildings, shops, and scenery—a nostalgic feeling. Zhang Sanfeng milk tea is no longer popular (I never thought much of it—more gimmick). Ye's Mochi, once sold from an old lady's box, now has a small kiosk but still a long line. Babao's Herbal Jelly is highly rated and indeed delicious. Longtou Road snack street: fish balls should still be good, but we had no stomach room. While waiting for father and son at Xilin Pavilion Coffee Hotel (opposite Sunlight Rock), I heard people say you can go up to see the sunset. I was lucky to witness it—a beautiful island sunset!

Our son also took photos of the sunset from Sunlight Rock:

After finishing the herbal jelly and buying cold medicine, we took the ferry from Sanqiutian Pier to leave the island. Then we took a taxi back to Xiamen University to get the car. Traffic jam on the elevated seafront road for nearly half an hour! Xiamen University, Xiamen University! I won't come for a check-in again!

On the third day, I still felt unsatisfied and wanted to see the coastal scenery. My partner didn't want to take the bus, so we drove—okay! We drove the classic southern and eastern routes (half circle around the island). Xiamen Island is really beautiful! No wonder housing prices are around 100,000 yuan per square meter.

By the way, I liked the hotel breakfast (the one in Ningde at Hampton Inn was more abundant). I especially liked the soup rice noodles. Coffee would be better if it were freshly ground instead of drip bags (I didn't repeat the milk coffee from the previous day; I had a black coffee for better metabolism).

Xiamen, goodbye!

Seventh stop: Chaozhou—Jia Di Lane, Paifang Street, Guangji Bridge

Finally arrived at the Chaoshan area (general term for Chaozhou, Jieyang, Shantou, etc.). Our son's long-awaited Chaoshan beef was coming soon!

Stayed at Atour X Hotel on Chengxin West Road in Chaozhou, about 3 km from Paifang Street, Jia Di Lane, Chaozhou Ancient City, and Guangji Bridge. The hotel has parking at the door (be careful not to block the sidewalk/blind path) or nearby with hotel reimbursement.

In the evening, Paifang Street was bustling. Guantang Hexing Beef Hotpot (Yijing Market No. 16) had a queue. It was so popular that we found one of the most authentic local beef hotpot places. We wandered around nearby for a drink first—our son got a cup of Tea Grandpa Chao's (Bird Beak Lemon Tea), Shang Tea's Old Tangerine Peel Milkshake, and my husband and I each ordered a cup of Sanbao Water and Osmanthus Duck Shit Fragrance Lemon Tea. The owner chatted about Chaozhou's three treasures (aged old tangerine peel, Buddha's hand citron, and preserved yellow peel plum), the origin of the name 'duck shit tea,' and the light show on Guangji Bridge every night at 8 PM...

The beef hotpot was delicious and affordable: a premium set for three at 238 yuan, including a broth base, six types of meat (we tried beef brisket), a vegetable platter, two snacks (spring rolls and rice noodles), plus sauce fees, tea, and tissues. The next day, our son wanted it again, so father and son ordered the same set plus two extra portions of meat, haha!

Nearby is Guangji Tower and Guangji Bridge. The night scenery there is beautiful. Although we didn't see the bridge dismantled in the evening or assembled in the morning, we visited twice to see it at night and during the day, and it was still bright and worth seeing!

Eighth stop: Shantou—Nan'ao Island

Woke up at 8 AM the next day and found a place called Dadi Guozhi, a Chaozhou specialty snack. The braised pork belly could be a bit more tender, but the other toppings were good. Guozhi is like rice noodle lumps. I especially recommend their pig intestines—no gamey smell, soft and sticky. Even I, who don't usually eat intestines, couldn't stop after one bite! My husband ordered another portion and enjoyed it thoroughly!

Around 9 AM, we left the Atour X Hotel for Nan'ao Island, 72 km away. We drove onto Nan'ao Bridge in about an hour, and the sea view immediately appeared—this road is perfect for a self-drive trip! The weather was also very cooperative; both Xiapu and Nan'ao Island welcomed us with clear skies and blue clouds. Remember to check the weather in advance for these two places.

After crossing Nan'ao Bridge and entering the island, turn right (counterclockwise around the island) to see the sea views. We checked out/passed by: red Changshanwei Lighthouse, fresh white-green Qian'ao Bay Lighthouse, Qiyun Pavilion Zhannan Pavilion, Southeast Asian style beach between sea and sky (too hot at noon, didn't get off), Sanchongya Lighthouse, Qing'ao Bay, Tropic of Cancer Square (very popular, heard of traffic jams, didn't go), Huanghua Mountain Forest Park (too hot for hiking, and the island loop focuses on sea views, plus we needed to return to Guangji Bridge to see the bridge dismantling).

Driving around the island to enjoy the scenery of Nan'ao Island was very satisfying—with songs playing, sea breeze blowing, and endless views!

Last day: Chaozhou breakfast, return trip

Left the Atour Hotel. For breakfast, we chose Xiangdun Offal. The fragrant offal soup with thick sauce noodles, beef rice noodles, beef noodle soup, and beef ball soup—every specialty was delicious!

Chaozhou is truly a paradise for food!

Throughout this trip, it was wise to choose self-driving. Thank you to my partner for driving tirelessly—smooth driving and good skills! The return trip took 12 hours with a half-hour rest and meal break at a service area. Arrived home safely at 10:30 PM.