A Self-Driving Four-Day Adventure in Xiapu, Ningde
I heard that Xiapu, a small coastal city in Fujian, is hailed as a paradise for photographers, and that when you witness the scenery of the Sishuang Islands with your own eyes, it feels like stepping into a fantasy scene from The Legend of Zelda. Plus, the kids said they wanted to see the sea for summer vacation. Making up our minds, we decided to give it a try.
On the first day, we drove from home at 9 a.m., stopping along the way, and arrived in Xiapu County in 7 and a half hours. That night, I chose to stay at an apartment-style guesthouse in the Future Plaza area on Taikang Road. We parked the car in the complex. Downstairs, the entire street was lined with snack shops and seafood stalls. I tried two of them; the seafood prices were quite affordable, and for around 100 RMB per person, you could eat very well. Also, if you had any questions about food, drink, accommodation, or transportation, you could ask the guesthouse owner, who would unhesitatingly send you local travel guides.
On the second day, we got up very early because we had to catch the only passenger ferry of the day to the dock to head to the Sishuang Islands, located in the southeast of Xiapu County. The distance from our accommodation to Jishi Pier was 30 kilometers, about a 40-minute drive. We arrived at the pier at 9:30 a.m., parked the car nearby, paid 30 yuan for overnight parking, grabbed our luggage, and quickly boarded the boat. The daily departure time from Jishi Pier to the Sishuang Islands varies, roughly between 9:30 and 10:30 a.m. The voyage takes about 1.5 hours to reach Beishuang Island. The ferry fare one way is 100 yuan for adults, half price for children. The conditions on the boat were quite basic, so we had to make do. Those prone to seasickness must take motion sickness medication in advance; otherwise, if the waves are high at sea, this 1.5-hour journey will make you miserable. Fortunately, our family of four held up on both trips.
To give a brief introduction: Beishuang Island is the main island, with many fishing boats docked at the pier. There are fishermen on the island, as well as border police and coast guard. Accommodation and meals are all on this small island. The accommodation prices are slightly higher, so be sure to book a room one day in advance. If the sea winds and waves are too strong the next day, the passenger ferry cannot go out to sea, and the guesthouse owner can inform you in time to cancel your reservation. We arrived at Beishuang Island Pier around 11 a.m., had lunch, rested until 2:30 p.m., and then the guesthouse owner told us to gather downstairs to board a fishing boat to visit other islands. The first island we reached was Hongshuang Island, also known as Bird Island. Here, you can see flocks of seagulls circling overhead, vast lawns as far as the eye can see, and steep, spectacular cliffs. It was only then that I realized you don't need to go abroad to admire such stunning island scenery. Another island was Dongshuang Island, which currently has only two households. The scenery on this island is incredibly beautiful when captured by drone. From June to August, you can appreciate the emerald alpine meadows and the endless blue sky and water. Due to time constraints, we only visited these two small islands and returned at around 6 p.m. We found a place to eat dinner on the island. A nice touch: after finishing our meal, as we sat outside the restaurant enjoying the sea breeze and night view, a little girl placed a small night light on our table, making us feel incredibly comfortable.
On the third day, since we had to catch the return ferry at 8:30 a.m., we got up early again. Departing from Beishuang Island, we arrived back at Jishi Pier a little after 10 a.m. We picked up the car from the parking lot and started a day of island-hopping by car.
My plan for the day was to drive along the East China Sea Route 1 Scenic Byway, which has several coastal viewpoints. Every snapshot looks like a masterpiece. Of course, there are also famous spots like Gaoluo Beach, Haiwei Cape, Dajing Beach, Xiawei Island, and Lüxia Lighthouse. We first went to Dajing Beach, where both the sea surface and the sand were very clean. Rescue personnel were seen patrolling back and forth on the shore, so the kids could enjoy themselves freely. On Xiawei Island, there is a natural sea cave. Many tourists go there to take photos. Be sure to check the tide schedule (which can be found on WeChat mini-programs) before going. Wait until low tide to visit the sea cave scenic area; otherwise, the area will not open. Finally, when going to Lüxia Lighthouse, the last section of the road is a gravel uphill path that is quite difficult to drive. But after all that effort, when you see the red-and-white lighthouse standing alone on the cliff at the end of the island road, that scene will surely heal your tired body and mind.
On the fourth day, we planned to take a stroll in Dongbi Village. It’s about 40 kilometers east of Xiapu County, located in Sansha Township. It's a small fishing village built on a hillside, with houses arranged in a staggered pattern on the cliffs. If you come to Xiapu and want to see the sunrise and sunset, my suggestion is to consider staying one night in Sansha Township. Watch the sunset at Dongbi Village that evening, then head to Huazhu Village early the next morning to see the sunrise. Additionally, many people come here specifically to photograph that stairs path leading to the sea, which is said to be the most beautiful in Xiapu, located next to the "Time Sea" guesthouse. It's also the most frequently seen scene on short video apps.
Also, note that you must prepare physical sun protection equipment, such as a hat with a brim, sunglasses, arm sleeves, a parasol, etc., and bring enough drinking water. We also carried heatstroke and insect repellent medications. If you are interested in going to the beach to search for seafood, ask the guesthouse owner or search for Xiapu beachcombing bloggers on Douyin. Make sure to contact them in advance. The accommodation during my days here was all apartment-style guesthouses, for two reasons: first, the guesthouses are spacious and well-equipped, generally cheaper than hotels; second, they have complete electrical appliances like refrigerators and washing machines. After a day of sightseeing, who wants to wash a pile of clothes when you come back tired?
"Xia" means sky, and "Pu" means sea. Xiapu enjoys the reputation of being the "Hometown of Chinese Kelp" and "Hometown of Chinese Laver," and it is also the area with the most concentrated and largest-scale tidal flat scenery in the country, attracting many photographers from home and abroad. Unlike Pingtan Island, the natural scenery here has not been overly developed by the tourism industry, and there are relatively fewer tourists. Moreover, the coast guard and local fishermen have maintained the pristine natural ecology well. Of course, there are drawbacks: the living facilities at tourist attractions are relatively simple and casual, services may lag behind, and some roads are in poor condition and often congested. Considering that the scenic spots in Xiapu are far apart, I chose not to take the high-speed rail. Although the itinerary was flexible, it was relatively compact. Actually, four days and three nights are enough if you take it slow. This guide is for reference only. Once you truly come to Xiapu, you will discover the modest charm of this coastal city—every stop has its own mystery and excitement.
