Tap Mun Island: The Beloved 'Grass Island' for Backpackers in the Pearl River Delta

Tap Mun Island, situated on the Hong Kong side of Mirs Bay beside Sai Kung East Country Park, faces Shenzhen's Dameisha, Xiaomeisha, and the Dapeng Peninsula. Despite the considerable distance from both Shenzhen and downtown Hong Kong, it still cannot stop backpackers from Hong Kong and the mainland from flocking here. The tranquil Tap Mun Island is not only suitable for hiking but also for flying kites and stargazing. Hiking on Tap Mun has become a retreat for backpackers seeking an escape from the world.

On weekends, the ferry to Tap Mun and its pier are crowded with visitors. Unlike the well-dressed tourists in Mong Kok or Causeway Bay, or those dragging suitcases, everyone here is in outdoor gear with hiking backpacks. If you are not dressed for the outdoors, you would stand out. Most visitors are from Hong Kong, but many speak Mandarin—they are hikers from Shenzhen, Guangzhou, and Zhuhai in the Pearl River Delta region.

There are only a few households on the island, with old houses retaining the style of the 1970s and 1980s. Small shops line both sides of the alleyways, selling a bit of everything. Most of those who stay are elderly, but the island is fully equipped with gates, temples, restaurants, guesthouses, playgrounds, campsites, and sports fields. A few stores and small eateries by the pier are the only places to eat on the island. Built on stilts over the sea, with a few small boats floating nearby, they resemble the stilt houses of Tai O.

If you don't want to hike around the island, you can head straight to the small grassland. Upon arrival, turn left, pass through a small path in the center of the island, and head toward Fishermen's New Village and Die Shi (Stacked Stones), reaching the other side. If hiking is your priority, turn right toward Banyan Tree Village and Fishermen's New Village. Walking along Seaside Street and passing through the island's homes, you'll see the Tianhou Baolou Archway from the late Ming and early Qing dynasties atop the steps. The nearly 400-year-old Tin Hau Temple still thrives with incense. To the left of the Tin Hau Temple is the Guanyin Shrine; local fishermen also like to visit both temples to pray for safety.

From the two temples, pass through the dense grove in the center of Tap Mun Island. It takes less than ten minutes to reach the campsite. Before you even see the sea, you can hear the sound of waves and voices. Emerging from the woods, you'll see a large green slope called "Bow Back Slope," and ahead lies the open sea.

You can take the circular trail around Tap Mun Island. Along the way, there are sheltered benches for viewing. Sitting quietly there, watching the waves crash among the rocks in Bow Back Bay, you can feel the grandeur amidst the tranquility.

The small grassland on the island is not an officially permitted campsite; it is generally only for picnics. However, many people do not know this and set up tents there. When resting or picnicking at the campsite, be sure to hide your food well. Don't think there are no "thieves" on Tap Mun Island. When a cow suddenly comes over and starts munching on your picnic food, it's both startling and amusing. Many wild cattle and wild boars roam the island, often hanging around picnic spots. If they find food that visitors haven't hidden, they will not hesitate to feast.

The main activity on the island is the circular hike. Starting from the Tap Mun Pier, turn right and pass through Banyan Tree Village, Fishermen's New Village, Die Shi (Stacked Stones), Tap Mun Campsite, Long Jing Ting (Dragon View Pavilion), Long Jing Jin (Dragon Neck Ridge), Mao Ping Shan, Shang Wei (Upper Enclosure), Tin Hau Temple, and back to Tap Mun Pier. This classic route is virtually effortless, with clear signage to prevent getting lost. If you skip the challenging Long Jing Jin and Mao Ping Shan, it can be completed in one to two hours. If you don't want to camp, you can return the same day.

Circumnavigating the island is not about visiting attractions but enjoying fresh air and the natural spectacle of crashing waves. The most talked-about natural feature is the "Die Shi" (Stacked Stones), shaped like a Chinese character "吕" (lǚ). Two large stones are stacked together, forming a 6-meter-high tower with a door-like hole called the Tap Mun Cave, facing the sea.

Legend has it that this cave leads to the altar inside Tin Hau Temple. Locals call it "Fo Ta Men" (Buddhist Pagoda Gate), later shortened to "Tap Mun" (Ta Men). From Long Jing Jin, you can see Gongzhou Island and Chizhou Island in the distance. If you want to reach the summit of Mao Ping Shan, the highest point, you have to return the same way. The shrubs there are dense, making it easy to get lost.

Although Tap Mun Island has no sandy beach, the water quality is excellent. You can walk along the coast to Bow Back Bay, carefully step over the rocky shoals, and dip your feet into the cool sea. You can also rent a kayak and paddle leisurely on the pristine waters, or even snorkel and swim with fish. Diving enthusiasts can take a local fisherman's boat to diving spots outside the Tap Mun Island pier, where you can see starfish, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, and other species underwater.

While waiting for the ferry to leave Tap Mun Island, you can grab a bite at the small eateries along the pier on both sides. Places like Sun Wai Wo, Sun Yau Kee, Sun Hon Kee, Banyan Tree Village Tea Stall, and Bow Word Seafood offer Hong Kong-style snacks. The island's most famous dishes include non-iced milk tea, sea urchin fried rice, and fried squid balls. You'll also find fish ball noodles, tofu pudding, salt-and-pepper squid, and more. Before boarding, you can buy some local specialties along Seaside Street, such as seaweed, shrimp paste, dried squid, dried shrimp, dried fish, and dried snails, to take home as souvenirs.

Tap Mun Island, between the Kap Shui Mun Strait and Mirs Bay, is a small island of only 1.69 square kilometers. Once a busy fishing village, it is now quiet and less frequented, yet it retains its unpolished natural beauty. Tap Mun's official English name is "Grass Island", which might feel a bit bare around the campsite, but overall, the island has a high coverage of trees and shrubs. You can see large patches of green from the air, so don't doubt its name. As for what to watch out for while hiking on Tap Mun, be careful not to step on cow dung.

Tap Mun Island Travel Tips:

1. Take the MTR to University Station, Exit B, then walk to Ma Liu Shui Pier; or take bus 94 to Wong Shek Pier.

2. Ferries (kai-to) from Ma Liu Shui Pier, Wong Shek Pier, and Lei Yue Mun Pier reach Tap Mun Island. From Ma Liu Shui to Tap Mun, there are only two ferries on weekdays and three on Sundays, taking about 50 minutes; from Wong Shek, there are more frequent ferries, taking 30 minutes.

3. Tap Mun Island has no designated campsite. Camping, lighting fires, etc., may be subject to fines. Keep away from wild boars and do not feed them or the wild cattle. There are holiday houses and kayak rentals on the island, but accommodation is limited; book in advance.

Part of this travelogue is excerpted from my newly published book "No Work, Go to Island: The Blue Love Song of the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area." Without the consent of me and the publisher, no one is allowed to republish the text and images of this travelogue (including but not limited to screenshots, screen captures, conversion to video, etc.) under any other name.