Don't Just Shop in Hong Kong! The Coolest Way to Travel Independently: Unlock Lesser-Known Gems You Don't Know
Hong Kong, the global financial center known as 'Nylonkong' alongside New York and London, seems far from me. Yet there is no distance between us, for it has created countless classics.
Whenever I mention traveling to Hong Kong with friends, our conversations always drift from shopping paradise and Pearl of the Orient to unforgettable TVB dramas, Shaw Brothers films, and various movies produced by Emperor Motion Pictures. To visit the Hong Kong seen in films, many ice rooms, bakeries, trams, and streets often become key arrangements on my Hong Kong trips.
The Hong Kong in my memory has always been a blend of glamour and bustling street life, where cloud-level art coexists with the depths of everyday living. It is destined to be a tourist destination that countless people yearn for. Especially after high-speed rail connected mainland China directly to Hong Kong, 'traveling to Hong Kong by high-speed rail' has accelerated my emotional connection with it.
So, this independent trip to Hong Kong is a bit different.
Taking the high-speed rail from Wuhan directly to Hong Kong West Kowloon Station, a journey of 4 hours and 30 minutes, kicked off my 'city ramble' in Hong Kong once again. I can no longer remember how many times I've been to Hong Kong, but my fondness for it has long evolved from love at first sight to a deep, lingering affection. This city attracts me deeply in various ways.
Standing at Victoria Harbour, the urban prosperity of Hong Kong is crystal clear;
Immersing in Central, fashion and retro intertwine endlessly;
Strolling through Sham Shui Po, the dense tenements house what feels like an 'electronic antique museum' (Apliu Street), where chaos is marked by the passage of time.
The Yaumatei Police Station and the fruit wholesale market form a stark contrast, with a popular heritage photo spot and a local fruit market creating two distinctly different kinds of vibrancy. Temple Street after dusk is truly captivating, as too many classic Hong Kong films come to mind.
Venturing into Sun Street, Moon Street, and Star Street, the quiet artistic atmosphere makes you want to find a café and sit down;
The Chinese red of Lee Tung Avenue (commonly known as Wedding Card Street) warms the heart like a strong liquor;
The Mei Ho House Youth Hostel offers something different;
The Tai Kwun (former Central Police Station) on Hollywood Road is a niche gem in Hong Kong's historical and cultural tourism district;
The glittering nightlife of Lan Kwai Fong sparks endless imagination, its neon lights exuding a peculiar dreaminess.
But the most unforgettable is seeing a more three-dimensional Hong Kong from Victoria Peak, where the sunset glow and the first lights of evening create a beauty that Victoria Harbour cannot replace.
Although these places are not unfamiliar to most people, for me, some evoke personal feelings of 'revisiting old haunts,' while others bring the wonder of first-time exploration. Of course, the biggest gain was the museum tour (Hong Kong Palace Museum, M+, Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre), as well as Sai Kung, known as the 'back garden of Hong Kong.'
⚠️ Important Information:
【High-Speed Rail】Wuhan Station direct to Hong Kong West Kowloon Station
【Immigration】After getting off, scan the QR code to apply for a health declaration, use the Mainland Travel Permit for Hong Kong and Macao, and scan fingerprints (self-service throughout) for entry, then exit the station with your ID card.
【City Transport】West Kowloon Station has MTR access to all corners of the city. If you choose a taxi, remember to get a queue number at the taxi stand and board in order. Taxi starting fare: 27 HKD.
【Currency Exchange】At West Kowloon Station, you can exchange RMB for HKD directly (cash only) or purchase an Octopus card, which can be used for MTR, buses, and other payments; some shops accept Alipay and WeChat Pay, and the MTR also supports Alipay. It's advisable to carry some HKD cash.
【Hotel Accommodation】Some hotels in Hong Kong, considering environmental protection, usually do not provide disposable toiletries and slippers, so prepare in advance; or inquire with the hotel when booking whether they provide them. Most hotel rooms in Hong Kong are quite small, so set your expectations before checking in.
【Data SIM Card】Available on Taobao, easy to set up, no need to elaborate.
Suggested Itinerary Themes:
🌟 Mountain and Sea Scenery in the City: Victoria Harbour｜Victoria Peak｜East Coast Park
🌟 City Walk: Yaumatei｜Sham Shui Po｜Central Market｜Sun Street, Moon Street, Star Street｜Tai Kwun｜Mei Ho House｜Lan Kwai Fong
🌟 Exhibitions in Hong Kong: Hong Kong Palace Museum｜M+｜Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre
🌟 Sai Kung Day Trip: Explore the 'Back Garden of Hong Kong'
🌟 Hong Kong on a Plate: Lan Fong Yuen｜Kam's Roast Goose｜Tai Hing｜Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant｜Sai Kung Cafe & Bakery
🌟 Unique Experiences: Mid-Levels Escalator｜Peak Tram｜Star Ferry
Mountain and Sea Scenery in the City: Victoria Harbour｜Victoria Peak｜East Coast Park
Hong Kong is a city full of a sense of pressure. The density of buildings made me, accustomed to 'big spaces,' feel a bit uncomfortable. However, the open views of Victoria Harbour, the commanding height of Victoria Peak, and the charming coastline of East Coast Park deeply made me feel that Hong Kong is actually a city that 'knows when to tighten and when to loosen.'
These three places happen to be perfect spots to observe 'mountain and sea Hong Kong.'
The popularity and fame of Victoria Harbour speak for themselves. Since ancient times, it has influenced Hong Kong's history and culture, dominated the city's economic and tourism development, and is one of the keys to Hong Kong becoming an international metropolis.
As one of the 'Three Major Night Views in the World,' the night scenery of Victoria Harbour is magnificent, with the city skyline intertwined with mountains and sea.
Every day at sunrise and sunset, busy ferry boats shuttle between the north and south shores. Fishing boats, cruise ships, sightseeing boats, massive cargo vessels, and their sounding horns weave a beautiful maritime bustling scene.
Among them, the most nostalgic for tourists is the 【Star Ferry】.
The Star Ferry, along with Hong Kong trams and the Peak Tram, is a mode of transport with a history of over a hundred years.
It is not only an important part of the cross-harbour transport system between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon Peninsula but also one of the most affordable and high-quality sightseeing experiences in Hong Kong. National Geographic Traveler once listed taking the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour as one of the '50 Must-See Destinations in a Lifetime.'
This reminds me of the Yangtze River ferry in Wuhan, where a 1.5 RMB ticket only ferries passengers across the river, but now it has also become one of the inexpensive and good-value river sightseeing experiences adopted by countless travel enthusiasts.
Star Ferry piers: Tsim Sha Tsui Pier, Central Pier, Wan Chai Pier
Ticket: 6 HKD
If Victoria Harbour is the prime spot for viewing Hong Kong's night scenery, then the sunset and early lights of Victoria Peak offer another side of Hong Kong's landscape.
Victoria Peak is one of Hong Kong's top tourist attractions. The Peak Tower, designed by renowned British architect Terry Farrell, has a unique bowl shape that integrates sightseeing, entertainment, and shopping. Its observation deck at the top is also one of the best places to watch the city's sunset and night views.
From Victoria Peak, you can not only see the Central Victoria Harbour and the scenery of Kowloon on the opposite side but also enjoy a panoramic view of Hong Kong Island from various parks on the mountain (even if not on the observation deck).
Unique transport experience: Take the 【Mid-Levels Escalator】 to the Peak Tram ticket office, then board the 【Peak Tram】 to ascend Victoria Peak, enjoying the sunset over the Peak from inside the carriage.
Mid-Levels Escalator: free; Peak Tram one-way ticket: 65 HKD
It is worth mentioning that the Peak Tram is the earliest cable car system in Asia, and countless domestic and international films have been shot here.
Compared to the popularity of Victoria Harbour and Victoria Peak, East Coast Park is more niche. Watching the sunset and night view here brings a sense of 'exclusive' enjoyment. Of course, East Coast Park under a blue sky and white clouds is also exceptionally stunning.
The East Coast Park Precinct is located in Fortress Hill, featuring a very beautiful coastline. The park precinct has lawns, seating, sunshade facilities, children's balance bike test spaces, art spaces, etc., making it very suitable for couple or family half-day outings. Of course, pets are also allowed here.
City Walk: Yaumatei｜Sham Shui Po｜Central Market｜Sun Street, Moon Street, Star Street｜Tai Kwun｜Mei Ho House｜Lan Kwai Fong
No mountains and sea, no Hong Kong. This land of inch per inch is one of the most densely populated cities in the world. Limited land area forces Hong Kong to develop upwards, with dense buildings creating a sense of pressure.
When I participated in the city's culture through Citywalk, this density and pressure became even more intense, yet it also made me rediscover Hong Kong anew.
Citywalk Recommendations:
【Yaumatei: Police Station｜Fruit Wholesale Market｜Temple Street】
The Yaumatei Police Station, appearing in countless Hong Kong films and TV dramas, is now a Grade III historic building in Hong Kong. It is a typical colonial building, three stories high, with traditional cylindrical porticos.
At 6 PM on May 21, 2016, the Yaumatei Police Station held its last flag-lowering ceremony. As the longest-serving police station in Kowloon, it officially closed its doors and now only serves as a report center.
When I first came to the Yaumatei Fruit Wholesale Market, I couldn't help asking myself—why should I explore Hong Kong culture at a fruit market? Which city doesn't have a fruit market? Just like which city doesn't have a wet market or a museum?
But why go? Because no two cities are the same.
The Yaumatei Fruit Wholesale Market was originally the Kowloon fruit wholesale market, and it still maintains a certain scale. Locals and nearby residents come here to buy some fruit to take home. Its unique environment makes it one of the most atmospheric places for photography in Hong Kong.
Speaking of Hong Kong's photography atmosphere, every photography enthusiast visiting Hong Kong will surely go to Temple Street. Temple Street, as Hong Kong's most famous night market, not only has distinctive features but is also a popular filming location for Hong Kong movies.
It is renowned for its night market selling affordable goods, including tourist souvenirs, cheap bags, clothes, and shoes, as well as many electronic products, earning it the nickname 'Hong Kong's People's Nightclub.'
The bustling street life at night wraps around the ordinary lives of countless people. Around Temple Street, there are many dai pai dong, various restaurants, and ice rooms. Many famous food check-in spots also come from here.
【Sham Shui Po—Apliu Street】
Take a walk around Apliu Street in Sham Shui Po, and you can find all kinds of electronic products, CDs, records, etc. It is like an 'open-air electronic product museum,' showing you through trade that no matter how fast electronics are updated, you can find those 'antiques' hidden by time.
Apliu Street is known as 'Electronics Street,' located between Kam Cheung Street and Nam Cheong Street. It got its name because it was once covered with duck sheds. Famous for selling mobile phones and affordable electronic parts, it remains the same today and has become another excellent spot for Hong Kong's photography atmosphere.
Strangely, walking in here reminded me of Baocheng Road in Wuhan, which was also a street for electronics and audio equipment in the early days. Wuhan people would go there to buy electronics. Today, Baocheng Road Night Market is bustling with activity.
【Central Market】
Central Market is located in Central, bordered by Queen Victoria Street and Jubilee Street on the east and west, and Queen's Road Central and Des Voeux Road Central on the south and north. It is one of Hong Kong's historic markets.
【Sun Street, Moon Street, Star Street】
Compared to the crowding and prosperity of other districts, Sun Street, Moon Street, and Star Street are very leisurely and quiet. This area is a small community-like zone composed of Sun Street, Moon Street, and Star Street. There are many small shops here, including cafes, bistros, art spaces, tea shops, clothing stores, etc., exuding a vintage fashion vibe that attracts many young people and artistic youths to check in and admire.
【Tai Kwun】
This is a complex of buildings consisting of the former Central Police Station, Central Magistracy, Victoria Prison, and over a dozen historic structures. It is one of the most important surviving historic sites in Hong Kong.
Tai Kwun not only preserves the original appearance of the historic buildings but also gives these ancient complexes new vitality through renovation, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the history of that period in Hong Kong.
When visiting, don't miss taking the 【Mid-Levels Escalator】, which is free and can take you directly there.
This is the only surviving 'H'-shaped 7-storey resettlement building in Hong Kong, classified as a Grade I heritage building.
Mei Ho House is one of the earliest resettlement blocks built in Shek Kip Mei Estate. Originally known as Block H, later renamed Block 15, and after the estate's first renovation and redevelopment, it became Block 41 and was named 'Mei Ho House.'
In 2008, Mei Ho House became one of the first seven buildings under the 'Revitalising Historic Buildings Through Partnership Scheme.' It was converted by the Hong Kong Youth Hostels Association into a youth hostel with 129 rooms, reportedly ranked 7th among unique accommodations in Hong Kong.
If you want to experience Hong Kong's dazzling nightlife, Lan Kwai Fong is the top choice.
This is the famous bar district in Hong Kong, consisting of D'Aguilar Street, Wellington Street, Wyndham Street, On Lan Street, Yan On Lane, and Wing Wah Lane, forming a mid-to-high-end consumption area with bars and restaurants.
Under the night sky, it is vibrant and seductive. It is no longer only a night for Hong Kongers but a night for tourists from all over the world.
Exhibitions in Hong Kong: Hong Kong Palace Museum｜M+｜Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre
If you want to see more exquisite artifacts from the Forbidden City and learn about the daily life of Qing dynasty emperors, you must not miss the Hong Kong Palace Museum.
It features collections of calligraphy, paintings, ceramics, bronzes, jade, and more.
Many of these are on public display for the first time in Hong Kong, and some have never been shown to the public before. They are well worth a close look; each piece deserves a pause.
The Hong Kong Palace Museum has six floors (four above ground, two below) with nine galleries. Galleries 1 to 7 host special exhibitions, while Galleries 8 and 9 host special thematic exhibitions.
General admission: 50 HKD; Special exhibition: 120 HKD.
Address: West Kowloon Cultural District, Hong Kong
M+ is an art journey. The biggest gain is that capturing a moment with your eyes is a thought that a camera cannot record.
This is Asia's first international museum of contemporary visual culture, with over 1,500 works on display, many by world-renowned contemporary art masters.
I personally believe there is no single work that you absolutely must see, because every work is worth an unexpected encounter. When you step in, don't rush; quietly become a participant and merge into every artwork you see.
Of course, beyond the artworks, M+ is also a great spot for taking portrait photos. When you stand there, you become part of the art.
General admission ticket: 90 HKD
Address: West Kowloon Cultural District, Hong Kong
For the most distinctive Hong Kong local culture exploration, the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre left a deep impression on me.
Every year, during the three nights around the Mid-Autumn Festival, the Tai Hang district of Hong Kong is the liveliest. A 'dragon' covered with lit incense sticks is carried by hundreds of people (weighing over 100 kg, with the dragon head alone at 46 kg, requiring 8 to 10 people to take turns carrying it). Amid the lively sound of brass gongs, the dragon dances vigorously. The 'fire dragon' seems to come alive, its incense smoke swirling as it winds through the streets and alleys.
This is the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance, with a history of over 140 years. It was inscribed on the third batch of the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List in June 2011.
The Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre is small, but the history and culture it contains are very weighty. It is the first facility in Hong Kong to combine heritage revitalization with intangible cultural heritage. The center includes a 50% scaled-down 'Fire Dragon Head,' made from bamboo and rattan skeleton wrapped in a thick layer of pearl grass.
There is also a miniature model showing the formation of the dragon dance, which requires careful observation to appreciate the craftsmanship.
But the most eye-catching is a slightly larger display of the fire dragon dance formation in a corner of the center. It not only shows the excitement of the fire dragon dance but also features celebrity figures such as Andy Lau, Tony Leung Chiu-wai, and Wu Jing.
Of course, the most thrilling experience is the live event. For those interested, be sure not to miss it.
Address: Northern part of Hong Kong Island; exit Tin Hau MTR station, walk around the Hong Kong Central Library to reach.
Sai Kung Day Trip: Explore the 'Back Garden of Hong Kong'
1) Take the MTR to Choi Hung Station, then exit and take a minibus (route 1A) to Sai Kung Pier. Ticket: 10.3 HKD (cash or Octopus).
2) You can also take a taxi directly.
【Suggested Itinerary】
Geopark – Seafood Street – Sai Kung Pier Island Hopping – Sai Kung Cafe & Bakery
With distant mountains, azure sea, and fishing villages, Sai Kung is a must-visit destination for enjoying a time of seaside charm away from the bustle. It is known as the 'back garden of Hong Kong.'
To explore the beauty of Hong Kong's back garden, set aside a full day. You can spend half a day on the island hopping from Sai Kung Pier and half a day at the Geopark. Add a meal on Seafood Street and an afternoon tea at Sai Kung Cafe & Bakery, and your Sai Kung trip will be both fulfilling and leisurely.
The Hong Kong National Geopark is a vast natural wonder, covering about 5,000 hectares. It includes two major areas: the Northeast New Territories Sedimentary Rock Region and the Sai Kung Volcanic Rock Region, with a total of 8 scenic spots.
It is the 141st national geopark in China. The Sai Kung Volcanic Rock Region is famous for its world-class hexagonal rock columns.
The mountain and sea scenery here is magnificent. The vast, calm sea spreads out before your eyes, and the unique hexagonal rock columns hide my small figure among the mountains and sea. It is said that these hexagonal rock columns are the largest in area and volume known in the world, with an average diameter of 1.2 meters and a height of over 100 meters.
The rock columns stretch from the east dam of High Island Reservoir in the north to the Ninepin Group in the south, covering an area of 150 square kilometers. Most of the rock columns are under the sea, but it is estimated that about 200,000 of them are exposed along the coast, forming a unique natural landscape.
To go to the Geopark (suggest leaving early; no admission fee), you can take a green taxi (taxis within Sai Kung are usually green) from Sai Kung Pier to the east dam, or take a red taxi directly from the city. The Geopark is relatively remote, and taking a taxi is currently the most convenient and also the most expensive option.
Suggested visit time: half a day. Around noon, take a taxi (there are taxis returning from the Geopark; many on holidays, fewer on workdays) back to Sai Kung Pier. Have lunch on the Seafood Street at the pier (recommend Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant, a local famous one). Then take a ferry for island hopping. Generally, the round-trip ferry ticket is 30 HKD, but prices vary depending on the island. I recommend Kau Sai Chau (round trip 30 HKD).
Hap Mun Bay on Kau Sai Chau is one of the best water quality public beaches in Hong Kong. This free beach away from the city is very popular in the Sai Kung area. You can barbecue, snorkel, fish, kayak, etc.
Interestingly, next to Kau Sai Chau is a small island called Kiu Tau. At low tide, a tombolo emerges, allowing you to walk directly across.
If time permits, take a ferry to Kiu Tau, then walk to Kau Sai Chau, and then take a ferry back to the pier.
After returning to the pier, don't leave immediately. Be sure to have afternoon tea at Sai Kung Cafe & Bakery to replenish your energy. The freshly baked pineapple bun was the best I had on this Hong Kong trip, paired with a cold drink, absolutely delightful.
Hong Kong on a Plate: Lan Fong Yuen｜Kam's Roast Goose｜Tai Hing｜Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant｜Sai Kung Cafe & Bakery
As the originator of Hong Kong-style milk tea, Lan Fong Yuen is one of the longest surviving Hong Kong-style milk tea shops, founded in 1952. Cai Lan, one of the four great talents of Hong Kong, once said: 'If you don't drink at Lan Fong Yuen, you've wasted your trip to Hong Kong.'
A cold lemon drink, a cup of silk stocking milk tea, and a Western toast—a perfect combination.
Address: 2 Gage Street, Central
Opening Hours: 7:00am–6:00pm
Authentic Hong Kong local flavors can't do without roast meats. If you don't try Hong Kong-style roast meats, it's truly a pity. Kam's Roast Goose and Tai Hing Roast Meat Restaurant are representatives of Hong Kong's roast meat scene.
Kam's Roast Goose is a Michelin one-star restaurant. Every day, many people queue up, both locals and tourists. Their roast goose is perfectly cooked: the skin is crispy, the meat is not dry, and it's juicy and bursting with flavor.
The crispy roast suckling pig is also a specialty. The golden skin is crunchy in the mouth, the fat is not greasy, and the lean meat is tender. You can't stop eating piece after piece.
Address: G/F, Po Wah Commercial Centre, 226 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Tai Hing Roast Meat Restaurant has multiple branches in Hong Kong. It is famous for offering 5-star roast meats, with the '5-star roasted pork belly' being the signature product.
Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant and Sai Kung Cafe & Bakery are two must-visit places for seafood and afternoon tea on a Sai Kung day trip.
Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant is a long-established eatery in Sai Kung. The variety of seafood here is 'extremely rich.' There are 'over a dozen' types of lobster alone, 'countless' groupers, as well as crabs, sea urchins, all displayed in 'outdoor fish tanks,' creating a strong visual impact.
Sai Kung Cafe & Bakery is small but easy to find. It is a king among Sai Kung bakeries. On holidays, people queue up here. Sitting on a chair by the street, eating a pineapple bun, drinking a cold drink, and enjoying the sea breeze—it's sheer pleasure.
Address: Both are at Sai Kung Pier.
As my travelogue reaches this point, it means my first independent trip to Hong Kong in 2023 is coming to an end. While trying to keep it concise, I couldn't help but write nearly 6,000 words, yet there is still so much left unsaid and so many sights left unshared.
When the giant wheel of time pushes everything forward, Hong Kong is no exception. But when other cities drift with the tide in the undercurrent, pursuing 'tourism homogenization,' Hong Kong always remains 'itself.' I can't help but admire: a highly developed economic advantage naturally brings a kind of cultural ease.
