The Tough Little Y's Respect-the-Elderly Autumn Foliage Tour in Kanto and Kansai, Japan
Having been to Japan several times, I gained experience in food, clothing, housing, and transportation, so in the autumn of 2019, I brought my parents and mother-in-law to Japan to enjoy the autumn leaves. Considering that the cherry blossom season has many tourists, I chose Japan's characteristic red maple leaves as the highlight of this trip. This travelogue doesn't have a special guide; it's suitable for traveling with elderly family members. The itinerary is not too tight to avoid tiring the elderly, but it's also suitable for first-time elderly visitors to Japan, covering several tourist spots since elderly tourism mainly focuses on checking off landmarks. During these days, we mainly used chartered cars and JR trains to minimize walking and save sightseeing time. I traveled with three elderly people, while my husband was very supportive in taking care of the kids at home—I must give him a thumbs-up. He handled school drop-offs and pickups, cooking, and homework help, all on his own, super helpful.
I looked at hotel prices on Ctrip for a long time, checked the timing of the maple leaves turning red, and decided to depart on November 10, 2019, and return to Beijing on the 16th, a total of seven days. The itinerary is as follows:
Day 1: Beijing to Tokyo, afternoon visit to Sensoji Temple and Akihabara, evening visit Tokyo Tower and Ginza shopping district (later changed due to the Emperor's procession), check into Shinjuku Prince Hotel.
Day 2: Tokyo to Fuji Kawaguchiko, check into Shuhokaku Kogetsu Japanese-style hot spring hotel, evening enjoy the Fuji Kawaguchiko Autumn Leaves Festival.
Day 3: Chartered car to Hakone-Lake Ashi, ride a pirate ship, then Shinkansen to Kyoto, check into Kyoto Hachijo Hotel.
Day 4: Chartered car to visit Sanzen-in Temple, Tofuku-ji Temple, and Nijo Castle in Kyoto.
Day 5: Arashiyama in Kyoto, Nara, then head to Osaka in the evening and check into a guesthouse.
Day 6: One-day tour in Osaka.
Day 7: Osaka to Beijing.
On the first day, we departed from Beijing and arrived at Tokyo Haneda Airport at noon.
Tokyo has two major airports, Haneda and Narita, with Haneda being closer to the city. We chartered a car, and a lovely young lady picked us up. The planned itinerary was to visit Sensoji Temple in the afternoon, but the lady said that day was the anniversary of the Emperor's enthronement, and the Emperor and Empress were going out, with streets closed and traffic restrictions. So we didn't go to Sensoji Temple. I had promised my son to buy him Ultraman figures, so my parents followed me to Akihabara for shopping. I bought souvenirs for my son, and my parents bought small electronics like thermoses and razors. They were very satisfied. I recommend the Yodobashi Camera near Akihabara JR Station—it has a wide selection of items, and it takes time to browse floor by floor.
In the evening, the driver took us to a ramen shop popular with locals. For our first meal in Japan, I wanted my parents to experience local cuisine. But I'm not a fan of Japanese ramen—it's too salty. I prefer Beijing zhajiangmian and Lanzhou lamian, haha. After dinner, we strolled through the bustling Ginza area. Since we're not interested in luxury goods stores, it felt like a waste—just a quick look at the dazzling lights.
The last stop was Tokyo Tower. It was beautiful under the night sky, emitting a dreamy glow. The famous Sea Star intersection was interesting. Looking down from the glass floor made me a bit dizzy.
At night, we checked into the Prince Hotel in Shinjuku. We chose this hotel so my parents could also see the Kabukicho area in Shinjuku, and it was convenient for taking the train to Mount Fuji the next day. The brown building on the left in the picture is the hotel. The transportation is very convenient, located at the east exit of Shinjuku Station. For independent travelers, it's easy to take the subway, JR, or airport bus, and there are plenty of restaurants and shops nearby.
On the second day, after checking out, we went to Shinjuku Station. At the ticket vending machines, we saw a grandmother-like staff member who spoke excellent English, but we couldn't communicate well—my English is terrible. I just said we wanted to go to Mount Fuji, and she guided me to buy JR tickets from Shinjuku to Otsuki Station. But she couldn't explain how to get to Mount Fuji. I was bold enough to board the train with my parents and mother-in-law. When we arrived at Otsuki Station, I understood: there was another ticket counter where I could buy separate tickets to Mount Fuji. On the tracks, I saw a cute Mount Fuji-themed small train—very interesting.
After exiting the station, we went to the hot spring combination station building and asked the staff to call the hotel. The hotel quickly sent a car to pick us up.
The Japanese-style hotels here are built along Lake Kawaguchi. Most rooms have views of the lake and Mount Fuji. This hotel faces Mount Fuji directly. When I came with a friend in 2017, the hotel only had a side view of Fuji. So, despite the high price, I paid to give the three elderly a better stay. Upon arrival, it started pouring rain, and my heart sank. I thought it would be a great pity if my parents couldn't see Mount Fuji. After checking in, my mother-in-law and I went to the hot spring—very comfortable. When we returned to the room, the rain had cleared, and my mood brightened. My parents were thrilled, saying we were lucky. In the evening, we had dinner in the room. The hotel rooms include breakfast and dinner. The dishes were very unique, giving my parents a deep experience. Whether they liked it or not is another story, but sitting on the floor tired my father out, which made me laugh.
After dinner, we strolled along the maple leaf corridor beside the hotel. Although it's called a corridor, it's only about 100 meters long. We chose a good time; the maple leaves had all turned red—really nice.
The next morning, we took a walk along Lake Kawaguchi. There is a dedicated walking path beside the hotel. Thanks to yesterday's heavy rain, the sky was clear and the air was superb. The lake reflected Mount Fuji—this must be the legendary 'upside-down Fuji.' So beautiful, a visual feast. I'm glad we didn't do a one-day trip to Mount Fuji; otherwise, we would have only encountered yesterday's rain. Considering the changeable weather around Mount Fuji, staying overnight is necessary.
In the morning, after checking out, we chartered a car to visit the Hakone-Lake Ashi area. With good weather, we could even see the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji in the distance. The driver helped us buy tickets for the pirate ship. Next time, I must get VIP cabin tickets—they have a dedicated deck for sightseeing, so you don't have to fight for photo spots with other tourists.
On the ship, I finally saw the torii gate in the water that I had longed for. Viewing from a distance wasn't enough, so after disembarking, we went to the opposite shore to visit Hakone Shrine. I wanted to take a photo near the torii gate, but there were too many tourists in a long line. To avoid delaying the afternoon Shinkansen, I gave up on the photo. Walking among the towering ancient trees, we breathed freely in this oxygen-rich area.
I secretly took a photo of a pretty girl—I'll pretend it was me standing there, hehe. In the afternoon, the driver took us to a small town about an hour away—I forget the name. I had seen it in another netizen's travel guide. This route from Hakone to Kyoto saved about two to three hours of travel compared to returning to central Tokyo and then going to Kyoto. I really don't remember the station, sorry about that. We took the Shinkansen to Kyoto in the Kansai region. We chose the Kyoto Hachijo Hotel, not far from the north exit of Kyoto Station. Again, we chose it for comfort, safety, and convenient transportation. The hotel lobby specially displayed a map of autumn foliage spots, updated daily based on how red the leaves were at each location. Very thoughtful service, thumbs up!
On the fourth day, we visited lesser-known spots in Kyoto: Sanzen-in Temple in northern Kyoto and the famous autumn foliage site Tofuku-ji Temple. In the afternoon, we visited Nijo Castle. This time, I didn't take my parents to the crowded Kiyomizu-dera Temple or Fushimi Inari Shrine—the crowds are unbearable. I personally love well-preserved historical sites with a sense of age. Many netizens only like shopping in Japan and don't bother to learn about local history; I really can't hang out with such people, haha. Let's start with Sanzen-in Temple. Its feature is the scattered stone Buddha statues around the temple—very interesting. I saw a couple sitting quietly with a cup of tea, enjoying the scenery—so pleasant.
The next stop was Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion), which we visited as we headed south. My attachment to this temple comes from the animated series 'Ikkyu the Wise' from my childhood—everyone born in the 80s knows it was the residence of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu.
It's a small, exquisite courtyard. Then we went to Tofuku-ji Temple, a famous spot for autumn leaves. They also offer evening maple viewing, but due to time constraints, we skipped that.
My mom loves taking photos—such is the charm of Chinese aunties! There's no stopping her; she clicked photos everywhere. Next stop: Nijo Castle. Of course, its scale can't compare to our Forbidden City, but the different architectural style is worth seeing. The Tang Gate (Karamon) has typical Japanese architectural features. Of course, it inherits and develops the architectural style of China's Tang Dynasty. Unfortunately, historical preservation in our country is not as good as in other countries.
On the fifth day, we visited the Arashiyama area in Kyoto and Todaiji Temple in Nara. Even with a chartered car, we walked a lot, but luckily my parents' stamina was adequate. In Arashiyama, we took the scenic train, and the scenery was indeed beautiful.
The above are Tenryu-ji Temple and Jojakko-ji Temple. They require admission tickets. You really must visit places that charge—they have fewer people and are great for photos, wahaha. Below is the scenic train ride—a wonderful experience with picturesque views along the way. We got tickets for the transparent carriage. To be honest, the mountain wind at this season was a bit chilly.
There was a staff photographer on the train, and you could buy the photos framed.
After Arashiyama, we visited Todaiji Temple in Nara and fed the cheeky deer. However, my parents weren't interested in the deer, and they didn't feel like visiting Kasuga Taisha Shrine.
In the evening, the four of us checked into a guesthouse near Nipponbashi in Osaka. It had two bedrooms and a living room—very spacious. It was right outside Ebisucho Station on the subway, next to Nipponbashi Electric Town and the Sunrise supermarket.
On the sixth day, we visited Osaka Castle. We didn't go to the crowded Shinsaibashi shopping street, as the elderly weren't interested in shopping. In the evening, we strolled around Tsutenkaku. These are older, more nostalgic parts of Osaka. We ate and shopped in Nipponbashi, and I bought another Ultraman figurine for my son. If you need to buy clothes or bags, there are department stores nearby—all within walking distance. This guesthouse was a good choice; I might bring the kids here next time.
A local friend said that early November is still a bit early for maple leaves—many hadn't fully turned red. But given what we saw this year, we were already very satisfied. The guesthouse was next to Tsutenkaku, so we visited it casually. It used to be Osaka's former commercial center—it's indeed old, but quite unique.
On the seventh day, we returned to Beijing. After passing through security at the airport, we followed my parents for some last-minute shopping—they bought some Shiroi Koibito chocolates and such for gifts. In summary, the most important thing is that the elderly were satisfied with this trip. It was a rare stroke of luck that the weather was beautiful, with good air quality, so the photos turned out really beautiful. I hope to bring my parents again during cherry blossom season. Really, don't let parents join a tour group—they feel like they've been everywhere but actually haven't enjoyed any attraction properly. Plus, tour groups spend mornings at attractions and afternoons entirely on shopping. The tour fee is cheap, but in the end, they buy a bunch of useless stuff and spend a lot of money anyway.