Melbourne: The Classical Romance of a City of Arts
When I was young, I had many, many dreams. I wanted a courtyard full of hydrangeas, berry bushes planted without pesticides, left to grow wild, and I would pick the fruit when it ripened.
I also wanted to live in autumn, with colorful maple leaves covering my body—I could even lie there and die contentedly. So after flying halfway around the world to land firmly on this land of South Australia, Melbourne fulfilled the dreams of both me and my younger self.
Living in this very cinematic city, it feels as though even the wind is an actor following directions.
At 7 a.m., the first light falls on Batman Avenue, accompanied by the clanging of trams. The swaying light and shadows dance with the wind onto the awnings of a corner coffee shop. Wrapping myself in a coat, I head to the renowned Higher Ground for a taste. This building itself was an old power plant from the 19th century, ingeniously transformed by designers, adding an industrial vintage touch to the modern metropolis. A midnight-blue metal staircase, 15 meters high, connects each level, allowing diners to find their perfect spot in any corner. The natural light streaming through geometric windows blends with the warm indoor lighting. The mottled walls seem to tell stories from the last century. Flat white is a must-order drink. Even if you don't have a sweet tooth, you must try the signature ricotta hotcake. The cake is soft, the crust crispy, paired with maple syrup—sweet but not cloying, complemented by light, smooth cheese, fresh berries, and oats. The layers of texture are lively and rich, leaving you fully satisfied.
Street wandering is the fastest way to get to know a city. Leaving Higher Ground, we roamed aimlessly. The sun was warm, the autumn breeze gentle. Street artists were immersed in their music, using pots and pans of various sizes as their instruments. The music drifted far through the crowd. We didn't deliberately navigate to a destination but unconsciously arrived at Central Station. However, I prefer to call it Flinders Street Station. This was Melbourne's first railway station, built in the Victorian era. With a century of elegance, it has witnessed countless reunions and partings, while scenes of meeting continue to unfold.
Whether you're just exiting the station, riding a tram, or strolling along the street, the church across from the station is an unmissable landmark. This neo-Gothic building is grand, with a high dome letting in rays of light, exuding an indescribable mystery and majesty. Beyond prayers and weddings, St. Paul's Cathedral also offers flower arrangement classes and free English lessons. Outside the church, charity organizations provide free food to the local homeless. When you hear "Free water, Free food," it's time for dinner.
Autumn in Melbourne brings early darkness. Before sunset, we hurried to Hosier Lane. This alley gained fame thanks to local graffiti artist Andrew Mcdonale, who set up a studio here and, on a whim, created graffiti in the lane. It unexpectedly caused a huge sensation, attracting countless imitators. To this day, the graffiti on the walls is refreshed every few weeks or even overnight, hence its interesting nickname—"Disposable Street." Among the many works are pieces by world-class masters. It has also been rated by Lonely Planet as the top cultural attraction in Australia.
Brunch seems to run in the blood of Australians, and the proliferation of unique brunch spots is the best proof. Even randomly choosing one won't disappoint. Still, for our first trip to Melbourne, we played it safe and chose Operator 25, long ranked high on local food lists. First, a flat white to awaken the taste buds, then a few signature dishes, slowly savoring the food. It turns out that idling away time is a serious matter.
Australians have a habit of reading among the populace. On subways, trams, in restaurants, and on park benches, you see people holding paper books. This rich cultural atmosphere peaks at the library. A first visit to Melbourne must include the State Library Victoria, the oldest public library in Australia, free for anyone to enter. The white circular dome contrasts with eight long wooden tables, each equipped with a vintage desk lamp. Here, you see students rushing deadlines, designers drawing blueprints, IT guys writing code, and tourists taking photos. Although the flow of people never stops, everyone speaks in hushed tones. Standing on the fourth-floor balcony looking down, time seems to pause.
My favorite author from my student days, Anthony, wrote in his book: "Melbourne has the bluest sky and the most beautiful sea." Actually, it also has the most beautiful sunsets and the most beautiful evening clouds. On the way to Phillip Island to see the penguin parade, we stumbled upon an unknown harbor and witnessed a grand and magnificent sunset. The sky turned orange, seagulls danced in the air, and a boy on a bicycle sped across the jetty. No praised beauty can compare to this scene. The orange twilight faded to violet, then to a light gray. We finally reached our destination for the day—Phillip Island.
Phillip Island is a resort famous for its fairy penguins. On Summerland Beach, many of the world's smallest penguins, about 30 cm tall, reside. Interestingly, the return time of the little penguins is uncertain each day. There's an electronic screen showing the estimated time. Hundreds of people sit on the beach steps waiting for these little cuties, and for a moment, it's hard to tell who the "performers" are. Since penguins are very timid and return at dusk, all visitors are strictly prohibited from taking photos or videos, and flash photography is banned. Light control is enforced on the island; only a few streetlights along the kilometer-long shore provide faint illumination. The scattered lights create a hazy romance.
Beautiful moments are fleeting but never disappoint early risers. Before coming to Melbourne, we had booked a hot air balloon ride. The night before, we worried about weather cancellations, but fortunately, the weather favored us with a bright sunny day. We gathered at the meeting point at 6 a.m., where the site was already full of fellow enthusiasts. Colorful balloons dotted Melbourne's sky. Boarding the balloon and riding with the wind, we looked down on serene pastoral landscapes. City buildings stood in rows like toy blocks. At this moment, the sky and earth were vast, and we felt free and unfettered.
I love Melbourne because of its pervasive nostalgic atmosphere, so precious in fast-paced modern life. Trams run in the city, steam trains rumble in the suburbs. Coming down from the clouds, we hurried to experience the Puffing Billy steam train. Among the lush forests, clouds of steam swirled. With a roar, the vintage locomotive pulled vintage carriages slowly forward, as if time had traveled back to the steam age. The uniformed conductor greeted passengers warmly. I couldn't see his eyes behind his sunglasses, but I imagine they were deep eyes that had witnessed the changes of time. Boarding the train, letting the dappled sunlight fall on my face, I lingered in this pastoral idyllic dream, unwilling to wake. *The steam train operates on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, with three routes: * Belgrave to Lakeside, * Belgrave to Gembrook, * Lakeside to Gembrook. I recommend experiencing the first, most classic route.
Our three-day-two-night Melbourne travel story ends here, but the Victoria road trip is just beginning. Next stop: the Great Ocean Road, one of the world's most beautiful coastal drives. Cliffs, rainforests, coastlines, pastures, magical animals—this top-tier road trip will bear our footprints.
Travel Diary Index:
1. Day 1: Higher Ground - Flinders Street Station - St. Paul's Cathedral - Hosier Lane
2. Day 2: Operator 25 - State Library Victoria - Phillip Island
3. Day 3: Puffing Billy Steam Train - Hot Air Balloon
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