Midsummer, a Winter Journey in Oceania

📍 Melbourne · 👁 6110 reads

The south of the south is winter.

During the hottest days of summer 2024, we organized a family trip to the Southern Hemisphere. The trip ran from July 28 to August 8, visiting Melbourne and Sydney in Australia, as well as Christchurch, Tekapo, and Queenstown in New Zealand. Although the journey was tiring, the scenery along the way was incredibly beautiful, and I have recorded some highlights of this trip.

1) Travel Planning and Visas

We started planning this trip to Australia and New Zealand at the end of May, just before our daughter's high school entrance exam. Considering that our family of six included elderly and children, we chose a semi-independent tour by forming our own small group. We settled on a time frame of about 12 days at the end of July and beginning of August. After initial price comparisons, we selected an offline travel agency under Ctrip, handling all communication, contract signing, payment, and travel coordination online.

After discussing in a WeChat group with the Ctrip agent, we roughly finalized the itinerary, and they helped us apply for visas for both Australia and New Zealand. Applying for visas required filling out personal travel information forms, providing basic documents like passports and household registration books, as well as asset proof. For employed individuals, salary account statements and an official English-language employment certificate from the employer were also needed. These were the general requirements at the time; I heard they have been adjusted recently.

2) Finalizing the Itinerary

The Australian visa came through quickly, but the New Zealand visa took nearly a month, arriving only by mid-June. According to the travel agency's advice, we waited for the visas before booking flights and hotels. By then, it was already close to the peak tourist season, and flight and hotel prices were changing daily, so we had to finalize the specific itinerary immediately. We commissioned the travel agency to book flights first, then hotels and tickets for some activities. To avoid the elderly and children having to walk too much or change transport frequently, we chartered a car in each city with a driver-guide. Other expenses, such as additional attractions and meals (lunch and dinner), were covered by ourselves.

To minimize transoceanic flight time, we chose direct flights both ways. On July 28, we took JD385 (Beijing Capital Airlines) from Hangzhou directly to Melbourne, and on August 8, we took MU780 (China Eastern Airlines) from Auckland to Shanghai Pudong. Since Australia lacks the convenient high-speed rail network found in China, we had to fly between distant cities. Including the cross-country flight from Sydney to Christchurch, we took five flights in total, which was the most exhausting part.

3) Preparations and Notes

The travel agency provided a "Tour Departure Notice" and held a video conference two days before departure to explain important points. Based on actual experience, besides carrying passports, the following were relatively important: First, pay attention to customs declarations and prohibited items; illegal entry may result in fines, especially in New Zealand where biosecurity is stricter (we were fined NZ$400 due to a moment of carelessness). Second, bring appropriate permitted medicines and daily-use medications; if prone to motion sickness, it's best to buy motion sickness pills in advance (Australian roads are not as smooth as in China, with many winding mountain roads). Third, bring several travel adapters and portable power banks; overseas, with poor network, phones drain quickly, especially when taking lots of photos; frequently changing hotels can also lead to losing small items that are hard to recover. Fourth, prepare some disposable items to save time and effort. Fifth, bring your own toiletries, as most hotels in Oceania do not provide disposables. Sixth, be sure to bring sunglasses, sunscreen, and off-season clothing (bright colors photograph better).

We completed preparations a few days in advance, activated international roaming packages (with data roaming enabled on phones), and set up a WeChat group with the travel agency contact and local driver-guides. Everything was ready, just waiting to fly to Australia and start our winter journey in the Southern Hemisphere.

That afternoon, our family of six set off from Hangzhou Xiaoshan Airport T4 terminal on JD385 (Beijing Capital Airlines). Since online check-in wasn't available for this flight, we arrived three hours early. At the check-in counter, we were near the front of the line and asked to sit together, but the agent didn't arrange it or give us any feedback—so it's advisable to double-check on the spot. The travel agency had incorrectly stated a departure time of 15:50; it was actually 16:50. The actual takeoff was at 17:24, and we arrived at Melbourne Airport at local time 05:38. Due to the two-hour time difference, the actual flight time was 10 hours 14 minutes. The advantage of this flight was its short duration, but the downside was that it was an overnight flight with cramped economy seats, making rest difficult and leaving us sluggish for the next day's sightseeing.

Upon arrival at Melbourne Airport, customs clearance went smoothly. Our family split into two groups, one using the declaration channel and the other the non-declaration channel. After submitting our arrival cards, we were not inspected, which was less strict than the travel agency had warned (this perhaps made us less cautious when entering New Zealand). Meanwhile, our driver-guide was already waiting outside. Apart from five pre-booked activities, we had no fixed schedule or check-in goals; each day's plans were discussed with the driver-guide on the spot, truly spontaneous.

When we left the airport, it was just past 7 a.m. and still dark. Melbourne's winter is rainy and slightly cold; wearing a light down jacket was just right. We tried asking the front desk at Novotel Melbourne Central if we could check in early, but were politely refused, as the hotel had been full the previous night and check-in was only after 2 p.m. After discussing with the driver-guide, we stored our luggage at the hotel and went out for a stroll.

It was too early for most public places to be open, so our first stop was the Royal Botanic Gardens Melbourne. Located 5 km south of the city center, the gardens cover 38 hectares and were established in 1846. The grounds are filled with towering trees and lush lawns, with many unknown birds foraging by ponds and on the grass. Perhaps accustomed to humans, the birds were completely unafraid. Throughout the trip, Australia proved to be a bird-friendly society; wild birds were everywhere in parks and green spaces, often coming up to you for food. Still, it felt novel the first time we saw it.

Unfortunately, the weather was showery, and the air was damp, reminiscent of a cold, wet Hangzhou winter. Aside from a few jogging locals, we might have been the first visitors in the park. We walked around the lake, encountering black swans and seagulls, and also spotted some Chinese wintersweet.

Our second stop was the University of Melbourne, located in the central business district. Founded in 1853, it may have some inflated international rankings but is still a world-renowned institution. Unlike Chinese universities, it has no clear campus boundary; buildings are integrated with the streets, and many areas are open to visitors. The rain intensified, so we hurriedly toured the main square, some buildings, and the library with the children, while the elderly rested in the car.

A note about our female driver-guide in Melbourne: she was under 40, a new immigrant who came with her husband. She wasn't very familiar with the area and had limited English, but her attitude was good. The kids wanted to try local cuisine, but she drove around without finding any, so our first lunch ended up being Sichuan hotpot, which suited the elderly. Our two elderly family members strongly disliked Western food, so throughout our trip across half the globe in Oceania, we mostly ate Chinese food and asked for hot water for them.

In the afternoon, we encountered a misunderstanding with the hotel reservation information. The driver-guide couldn't help due to her poor English, so I had to contact the travel agency's booking agent in China. Eventually, I resolved it with my Chinglish and phone. This hotel was somewhat lower in standard compared to Novotel hotels I've stayed at in China; the lobby and room probably matched the level of a Ji Hotel, though the restaurant was about four-star level. The room had a king bed and a sofa by the window, leaving little space. From the hotels we stayed at on this trip, those of similar class or brand in Australia didn't match Chinese standards, and bathrooms mostly used tiles. Another issue: the shower drains were in the middle of the floor, easily clogged during showers, causing the bathroom to flood—don't ask how I know this so well; you can guess. Foreign hotels aren't as forgiving; any damage might cost you.

In the afternoon, the elderly rested at the hotel while we went out with the driver-guide. We walked from Princes Bridge, visiting the old Flinders Street Station, St. Paul's Cathedral, Hosier Lane, and Federation Square. Australia's history is short; buildings over a hundred years old are considered ancient. The old station and the cathedral are still functional European-style antique buildings. Good architecture not only provides shelter but also carries centuries of history and culture as works of art. I couldn't appreciate the culture and aesthetics of Hosier Lane; perhaps it represents a kind of freedom that challenges rules? Federation Square is a modern architectural work, creating a collision of history and modernity, tradition and innovation. Whether beautiful or not is subjective. Unfortunately, we had to return to meet the elderly, so we didn't get to try indigenous cuisine.

Perhaps due to its coastal location, Australian weather forecasts seemed to rely 30% on science and 70% on guesswork—very unreliable. On our second day in Melbourne, we finally had good weather, clearing the gloom of the previous day. Under blue skies and white clouds, we began our Great Ocean Road trip. This is the highlight of Melbourne tourism; the ideal is a two-day tour, but a one-day round trip is rushed. Since we had pre-booked a helicopter flight over the Twelve Apostles at 3:30 p.m., we were in a hurry and felt unsatisfied.

In the morning, we left the city and drove along Princes Fwy towards Geelong. Gradually, green pastures dotted with cattle and sheep appeared under the blue sky and white clouds. After passing the hillside villas near Geelong, we soon drove onto the famous Great Ocean Road. Built by World War I veterans, construction began in 1919 and finished in 1932, mostly winding along the coast. The scenery of deep blue sea and green pastures kept unfolding before us. There were many viewpoints where you could stop and enjoy. Since it was the off-season, many beaches were empty, and you could even have a whole beach to yourself.

Our first stop along the Great Ocean Road was the Split Point Lighthouse, commonly called the "Little Red Riding Hood Lighthouse" because its top is red, similar to a little red cap. Isn't that a vivid image? From the viewing platform beside it, you already have an unobstructed view of the ocean, so buying a ticket to go up seems unnecessary. Against the blue sky and white clouds, the white body and red cap make a great photo backdrop.

The second stop was the coastal town of Lorne, said to be a famous tourist destination online. Perhaps because we went in the off-season, only one or two people were exercising on the wide, flat beach. The water was very clear, and among the rocks were many hat-shaped shells of various sizes and some unknown small creatures. The children's casual stone-throwing attracted a flock of white parrots, probably thinking we might feed them. More and more gathered around us, but there were signs prohibiting feeding, so we didn't give them anything.

The driver-guide then took us to a place called Kennett River to look for wild koalas. However, we only found one in a eucalyptus tree, looking drowsy as it digested food. No kangaroos were seen, only a group of bright red macaws.

At noon, we stopped in the town of Apollo Bay for lunch at a Chinese restaurant called The Vault Chinese Restaurant. We tried Australian lobster two ways and kangaroo meat. The menu had clear prices, slightly higher than at Sydney Fish Market but not excessively expensive. I recall comparing with prices of live Australian lobsters online in China; they were similar. The cooking was quite Chinese-style, which the elderly liked. Especially the stir-fried greens, probably frosted by winter, were tender and sweet, though A$24 was not cheap. The 2.5-pound Australian lobster was freshly caught and cooked: half with ginger and spring onion, half made into congee. The meat was sweet and fresh—expensive but no other flaws. The kangaroo meat was prepared like stir-fried beef, pre-marinated, possibly with tenderizer. If we hadn't also ordered beef, we might not have tasted the difference—just a novelty.

Our key destination in the afternoon was the Twelve Apostles, and we were going to take a helicopter tour to see them, Loch Ard Gorge, and the Arch from above. The dark blue sea, steep ocher cliffs, and the huge rock pillars known as the Twelve Apostles scattered in the ocean were truly a first-time sight for me. The helicopter was noisy but very stable. Although the flight lasted only 16 minutes, it was sufficient as an aerial experience.

As dusk approached and the sun slanted, we walked to the viewing platform at the Twelve Apostles to see the coastal scenery from another angle. Under golden sunlight, the cliffs appeared so tall, and the huge waves stirred up layers of mist—a magnificent scene. Unfortunately, with the sun behind us, our faces were dark in photos, so we couldn't capture a good shot with the scenery. Then we descended Gibson Steps to the beach for another perspective. Up close, the cliffs were steep but the rock was quite soft, gradually eroding under wind and waves. In a few decades or centuries, the landscape will look different again.

Before 5 p.m., we started our return journey, arriving at the hotel around 8 p.m. In summary, if you visit Melbourne, the Great Ocean Road is a must-see. But those prone to motion sickness on winding roads should definitely take motion sickness pills beforehand. Two in our group felt sick, which greatly reduced their enjoyment. It's only when you need it that you realize your English isn't good enough. When we participated in the helicopter tour, the reception upgraded one of our packages, but we couldn't understand (the driver-guide's English was also poor). We had to rely on a translation app, and I only understood a little of the English narration during the flight.

This was our third day in Melbourne, again cold and overcast. After checking out in the morning, we loaded luggage into the Mercedes van, and the driver-guide took us on a city tour. First, we visited the State Library Victoria, a European-style library opened in 1856. The main attraction is the five-story-high octagonal domed reading room. The library is still free to the public for reading, study, and visits.

Since we hadn't seen kangaroos during the trip, I searched online and confirmed with the driver-guide to add a visit to Westerfolds Park in northeastern Melbourne to see wild kangaroos. This free park actually also has various wild birds, rabbits, and wombats, but perhaps due to winter, we only saw a large group of kangaroos besides birds. In the evening, kangaroos probably cover the whole park, given the many droppings similar to sheep dung on the open grass. I've read some people online couldn't find them, maybe because the park is large and they didn't search the right spot. On a phone map, look for a place marked "kangaroo"—there's a gentle slope, half grass and half small woods, with a small house at the top; the kangaroos were active around there. Still, it took some effort to find them; my son spotted them in the woods. There were dozens of kangaroos, in twos and threes, grazing or hopping. Some were strong, alert males, some were mothers with joeys in their pouches, and some were timid young ones. At first, they were wary and scattered quickly, but gradually they seemed to realize we meant no harm and allowed us to approach, though they still wouldn't accept feeding.

In the afternoon, we had a late lunch at Chadstone Shopping Centre in Melbourne—another Shanghai-style meal. Chadstone is billed as the largest shopping mall in the Southern Hemisphere, somewhat like a flat version of a Wanda Plaza, without accompanying high-rise commercial buildings. Everyday clothing, shoes, and bags were not much different from those in China, so we had little desire to shop.

We arrived early at Melbourne Airport T3 terminal to board Qantas flight VA883 to our next destination, Sydney. Qantas uses self-service kiosks for check-in and baggage drop, which is straightforward if you know the process, and there are staff to assist. As a domestic flight, boarding and security were relatively simple. Seat pitch was slightly larger than Beijing Capital Airlines, and the food was better. Perhaps due to different dining habits and service procedures, they first gave empty cups to those wanting hot drinks, then came around again with beverages. Their tea came with milk and sugar by default, so the elderly thought the staff had made a mistake when given sugar and milk.

The plane took off at 19:00 local time and landed at Sydney Kingsford Airport less than an hour and a half later. Our driver-guide was waiting at the designated meeting point outside. Sydney Airport is not far from the city; within half an hour we arrived at the Pullman Hotel near Hyde Park. The room was large and decent, but the decor and facilities were very old; the air conditioner's heating was weak. The next day, after contacting the front desk, a mixed-race young man came to fix it.

An incident occurred that day: my wife felt airsick and accidentally left her phone on the plane. She only realized it at the hotel. We discussed in the travel group with the agency and the local driver-guide, deciding that the next morning the driver-guide would accompany us to the airport to search. Our driver-guide, Mr. Li, a post-80s Fujian native and father of two, was professional, polite, and capable, and he really helped us a lot this time.

The day's itinerary started with searching for the phone. At 9 a.m., we left the hotel for the airport. Why so late? The driver-guide explained that airport staff work shifts; planes from the previous night are usually cleaned the next morning. At the airport, things were complicated: the information counter was unmanned, and one staff member said lost items on the plane could only be found after passing security. Actually, that wasn't the case; after going through security, we were told to check the lost and found outside security. Fortunately, thanks to the driver-guide's good English and enthusiasm, we finally retrieved the phone after a lot of running around. Since we had chartered the car for the whole day, we only paid an extra parking fee at the airport. While we were at the airport, the children had accompanied the elderly on a walk to Hyde Park and the ANZAC Memorial.

After everyone reunited, we set off for the University of Sydney. Founded in 1850, it was the first university in Oceania and the Southern Hemisphere, and is world-renowned. We visited the main building and a museum donated by a wealthy Chinese businessman to its left.

Around noon, we went to Balmoral in North Mosman, Sydney, to visit a friend who works in cross-border e-commerce. Originally from Anji, he used to work in construction in China, and now his family is settled in Australia, thriving in a new field. According to the driver-guide, that area is an affluent neighborhood, though not ultra-rich. We had lunch at The Boathouse restaurant by the bay. This time, the kids enjoyed hamburgers, fries, and grilled fish to their hearts' content. The restaurant is actually a fixed pier extending from the beach into the sea, with private yachts moored nearby and a natural swimming area enclosed by wooden walkways and safety nets to the left. Many seagulls were circling or resting around the restaurant, swooping down to snatch food whenever a guest left or wasn't paying attention. Unfortunately, the weather was showery and uncertain, so we had to eat indoors.

The weather continued the same in the afternoon; it was still raining when we returned to Sydney city center. We first visited St. Mary's Cathedral, the largest and oldest religious building in Australia. Like other Catholic cathedrals, it was magnificent, and its stained glass paintings were more exquisite than the cathedral we visited in Melbourne. When the rain lightened, we went to Mrs. Macquarie's Point in the Botanic Gardens, the best photo spot for capturing both the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. There we encountered another large group of Koreans. Throughout this trip, we noticed many Koreans in Australia, both tourists and restaurateurs. This area is lovely for a stroll, but the rain came down again, so we walked along the waterfront to Mrs. Macquarie's Chair and then took shelter in the Art Gallery. By the way, nearby is Australia's naval base, but we didn't see any major warships.

Sydney's important buildings are mostly near Hyde Park, just a few minutes' drive apart. The Art Gallery of New South Wales is also in that area and is free. To the right of the entrance, several halls were filled with Western oil paintings, some large works covering entire walls; we spent half an hour and still hadn't finished those halls. It would be a feast for art lovers, but I'm not a good judge. When we heard the rain had stopped, we quickly went out and headed for the Sydney Opera House.

The Sydney Opera House is indeed a must-see landmark. From a distance, it looks like sails about to set out, or giant stacked seashells. Up close, its base is made of large, dark reddish-brown precast panels with a finish similar to exposed aggregate, blending harmoniously with the surroundings. As a public building opened in 1973, it hasn't aged in terms of artistic taste, construction methods, or materials. I hope China will also have more architectural works that can become historical landmarks and endure forever. From the waterfront platform by the Opera House, you can see the Sydney Harbour Bridge, almost a century old, still playing a key role in connecting the north and south. The bridge's arch was covered with tiny figures like ants on a bent straw—an adventure for the fearless.

Since our morning departure time was uncertain, most of our itinerary was decided spontaneously the day before. This day was no exception; we visited Bondi Beach, Sydney Fish Market, the city's main shopping streets, and Sydney Centennial Park. The weather was similar—occasional rain carried by the sea breeze in the morning.

Bondi Beach lies on the South Pacific Ocean east of Sydney, with soft golden sand, blue water, strong winds, and high waves—a famous surfing beach in Australia. However, there were few tourists this season. We started from the beach, walking south along the coastal path. The cliffs displayed vibrant colors of red, yellow, and white. On a peculiar tree, we encountered a beautiful parrot just half a meter away, completely ignoring us as it searched for seeds to eat.

At noon, the driver-guide took us to Sydney Fish Market to eat seafood. It is said to be the largest fish market in Sydney and even Australia, combining wholesale, retail, and dining. But it wasn't as huge as I imagined, probably because I've seen many large food courts in China. For food lovers, it's a must-visit; it's closed in the evening, so go early to enjoy fresh seafood. The driver-guide gave us a basic introduction and recommended a shop at the far right end of the entrance. We eagerly went off to find food. The market had all kinds of live seafood, bustling with customers from all over. As we walked around, we figured out how to order. Raw and cooked seafood were clearly priced. Chilled fish, shrimp, and shellfish were displayed on ice counters; live seafood was kept in aquariums. You ask the staff to weigh and price what you want, with an extra charge for cooking if needed. Cooked food and sashimi were simpler—just buy and eat. Drinks and beverages were sold at a separate small supermarket, and cups were extra. After buying seafood from a shop, you could request a table.

The seafood was fresh, but the cooking methods were limited compared to China. Except for the noodles added to crab, everyone gave good reviews. Since we had already eaten Australian lobster, this time we ordered large crabs, shrimp, squid, and sashimi. Cooking cost an extra A$15, and we ordered a plate of greens for A$20, which was cheaper than the Chinese restaurant on the Great Ocean Road. We didn't order lobster; the listed price was also a bit lower than at the Great Ocean Road. Overall, except for lobster, other prices were still a bit higher than in China, but not as much as other things. Judge the prices yourselves. The shop also had king crabs weighing over 20 jin (about 10 kg) selling for nearly 10,000 RMB, which was too much for us, but many customers were buying. When we left, we compared with shops near the entrance; the recommended shop was relatively cheaper, with Chinese labels and Chinese-speaking staff, making communication easier.

After the seafood meal, the elderly returned to the hotel for a nap, while we went to a CHEMIST on the commercial street to buy some health supplements. Somehow, my wife had lost the desire to buy luxury goods—saving money!

With no fixed plan for the afternoon, we discussed with the driver-guide and decided to skip museums and instead enjoy natural scenery and fresh air. We ended up at Sydney Centennial Park, located in southeastern Sydney, not far from the city center. Covering 220 hectares (3,300 mu), it's a large leisure park. Besides its tranquil natural environment and rich flora and fauna, it has a golf course, tennis courts, and an equestrian center. Our main goal was to see various birds and giant bats. A large pond called Duck Pond was filled with waterbirds—black swans, pelicans, wild ducks, and many unknown species. Despite signs prohibiting feeding, the birds swarmed toward people, indicating that many visitors do feed them. In another wooded area, the driver-guide led us to find huge bats hanging from branches—actually two species of flying foxes native to Australia, the largest bats, with wingspans up to 1.5 meters. According to information boards, both are protected species. They may carry deadly viruses, so we could only watch from a distance.

In the evening, we visited Chinatown, where an open-air market was happening. However, the goods were similar to those in China, nothing new. We were tired after the day's activities, so we had a simple meal and ended our Sydney itinerary, returning to the hotel to pack for the next day's flight to New Zealand.

That morning, we were to take Qantas flight QF137 at 10:20 to Christchurch, New Zealand. Following the travel agency's habit of "better early than late," they suggested we depart at 6:30 to arrive three hours early. But it was Saturday, and the hotel breakfast opened at 7:00. We estimated the journey to take about half an hour, so after discussing with the driver-guide, we decided on a 30-minute breakfast and departure at 7:30. Our estimate was correct; we arrived at the airport around 7:50. Check-in and baggage drop were done at kiosks, but since it was an international flight, staff checked our passports, and security was stricter. It took us nearly an hour to get to the departure lounge. The actual takeoff was at 11:04, and we arrived in Christchurch at local time 15:45. With a +2-hour time difference, the actual flight time was about 2 hours 40 minutes.

We encountered problems during customs clearance. Almost all outbound passengers, regardless of whether they declared on their arrival cards, were sent to the declaration channel for baggage re-screening. Suspicious items were inspected; even non-declaration passengers had random checks with dogs. One of our bags contained an apple from the previous day that we forgot to dispose of. When found, we thought we'd just get a warning, but we were taken to an office and fined NZ$400. Our local driver-guide said there was no way around it. The travel agency's warnings were not unfounded; New Zealand has very strict controls on foreign plants and animals, with a dedicated Biosecurity New Zealand department. We shouldn't have taken any chances. As mentioned earlier, the easy entry in Australia made us less vigilant about the agency's reminders.

Exiting the airport, we arrived at the hotel in the late afternoon. Due to the incident, we didn't feel like going out, so we checked in and rested. The hotel booked was the DoubleTree by Hilton Christchurch Park Castle, an English country manor-style four-star hotel next to the Christchurch Botanic Gardens. The exterior and public areas had a historic feel, but the rooms were simple, especially the bathroom, which seemed stuck in the 1980s or 1990s—the sink stopper was a cheap rubber plug. Online photos were misleading.

Christchurch had no buildings over five or six stories; most were one or two stories. Compared not only to China but also to Australia, Christchurch felt like a large country town with relatively wide roads and decent services. When we went out around 6 p.m., few people were on the streets. After walking a block, we found some restaurants and a small supermarket open on Riccarton Road. We had dinner at a Thai restaurant called Thai Orchid.

We had pre-booked a whale-watching tour in Kaikoura through the travel agency. Kaikoura is a coastal town on New Zealand's east coast, one of the best whale-watching spots in the world. It's about a 2.5-hour drive from Christchurch, and we had to check in by 10 a.m., so the driver-guide picked us up before 7:30. The route included winding mountain roads and a boat ride, so motion sickness medicine was necessary. According to the Chinese solar calendar, this day was the beginning of spring in New Zealand, but it was still full winter, colder than Australia, though not as damp and cold as a Hangzhou winter. In the morning, a silver frost covered the vast land, and distant mountains were capped with snow. From the over-40°C summer in China to the Southern Hemisphere winter, wearing a down jacket while browsing Hangzhou in my social feed felt like time travel.

We drove northeast along the only highway on the east coast of the South Island and arrived at the Kaikoura Whale Watch check-in office before 10 a.m., exchanging our tickets. The small office stood next to a seemingly disused railway line that stretched north and south, with snow-covered mountains at the horizon. To the east was the long Kaikoura Beach, with unusual black pebbles and fine sand—likely remnants of ancient volcanoes. Perhaps because it was our first time seeing such a scene, we were deeply awed by the beauty of blue sky, snowy mountains, railway tracks, the little office, the beach, and the ocean.

Around 10:30, a shuttle bus took us to the dock, and we boarded a whale-watching boat that departed from the bay surrounded by snowy mountains. Although the weather was fine with no strong wind, there was some rocking. Whale watching has become the area's main tourist attraction; staff are familiar with several whales that frequent the area and have named them. The boat used special equipment to locate a whale, then approached and waited for it to surface to breathe. To avoid disturbing the whales and ensure safety, we stayed about 40–50 meters from the surfacing point, which somewhat dampened the visual impact. We saw the huge black body of a whale swimming on the surface. About ten minutes later, the whale did a classic tail flip and dived deep; I didn't even get a proper photo. We saw two different whales surface, along with some seabirds and seals near the boat—an added bonus. For a traveler from afar, whale watching was a rare experience but not perfectly stunning.

We returned to the dock around 1 p.m., and the driver-guide took us to find food. He hadn't been in this direction recently, and the place he took us seemed to have been closed for a while. We backtracked to the town and had fish and chips at a British-style fast-food restaurant called Kaikoura Coopers Catch.

After lunch, it was past 2 p.m. The driver-guide wanted to take us to a sea lion colony called Trip Advisor, but it was in the opposite direction from our return. We decided against it and headed back slowly, asking the driver-guide to stop at a suitable beach so the children could play.

The tide had come in; several sandy beaches we saw in the morning were now submerged. But on exposed rocks, we saw groups of sunbathing sea lions. How did I know they were sea lions and not seals? Baidu told me: If there are spots behind the ears, it's a seal; if not, it's a sea lion. We stopped at a beach where many sea lions had gathered, watching these little sea creatures up close. However, those seemingly clumsy animals can move surprisingly fast, especially if pups are present, and they have a natural wariness toward approaching humans. It's best to keep a safe distance—neither side should get hurt.

At dusk, we returned to Riccarton Road near our hotel and got off at Westfield Riccarton, the largest mall in Christchurch. This mall was also a low-rise building (two or three floors), smaller than the complexes in Hangzhou's districts. Many shops were closing as we arrived—clearly, nightlife was minimal. After exiting the mall, we walked back to Riccarton Road and had dinner at Jinweide Lamian (noodle) restaurant. This seemed to be a chain of the Chinese brand Jinweide; the noodles tasted similar to those in China, with generous portions. The restaurant was very busy, and we were the only Chinese table.

This day was long: we drove from Christchurch to Tekapo, about 3 hours, stopping along the way, arriving at 3:30 p.m. In the evening, we participated in a Chinese-language stargazing tour.

That morning at checkout, the children left an old phone at the hotel. We only noticed it in Tekapo, and after asking in the group, the driver-guide and agency thought courier service in New Zealand was unreliable and couldn't guarantee it would reach our hotel before we left Queenstown. It wasn't worth much, so we asked the driver-guide to pick it up and bring it back to China at his convenience.

Since our itinerary didn't include a city tour of Christchurch, we asked the driver-guide to drive us around. Due to the major earthquake in 2010, much of the city center was destroyed, and recovery and reconstruction were still ongoing. Whatever the reason, the pace of construction is incomparable to China. We spent half an hour at Victoria Lake in the Botanic Gardens. New Zealand is sparsely populated, and the natural ecology in the gardens is well-preserved; the winter forest air was crisp and cold. But I have to complain about public restrooms in Oceania. Cleaning staff probably work 9-to-5; several times, regardless of whether people urgently needed the toilet, they'd put up a sign and start cleaning slowly. The restroom in the Botanic Gardens was even worse: although the facilities were ok, it hadn't been cleaned by 9 or 10 a.m., with trash all over the floor—apparently, paper is cheap, but labor is expensive.

Tekapo lies between Christchurch and Queenstown, named after the lake, located in the heart of the Mackenzie Basin within the Cook Mountain region. We drove southwest after leaving Christchurch. Before entering the mountains, the driver-guide, with our consent, took us to a specialty store selling alpaca products, honey, and milk powder. From the decor and facilities, it must have been a regular stop for Chinese tour groups before the pandemic, once thriving. This time, we were the only customers. Behind the store was a large area: half was once planted with lavender, and half was a fenced grassy area with 6-7 alpacas for children to feed. Feed could be bought from a machine—NZ$1 per bag, which lasted quite a while—seemingly a gimmick to attract visitors. But there was no pressure to buy anything.

Around 2 p.m., we reached the small town of Fairlie. The driver-guide strongly recommended a pie shop called Fairlie Bakehouse. Indeed, the pies were excellent and reasonably priced. Even at that hour, there was a long queue; some varieties like salmon pie were sold out. Each of us ordered a pie and a drink, enjoying the meal. If you ever travel this route, passing through this town, I highly recommend stopping by—it's a must.

The South Island of New Zealand had seen snow a few days earlier. In the shaded areas of the town, the children spotted unmelted snow and jumped with excitement. Little did we know this was just the beginning of our snow encounters in New Zealand. After leaving the town, we headed into the mountains and higher elevations. First, more and more snow-capped mountains appeared; then, snow accumulated on both sides of the road; eventually, we drove into a vast snowfield amidst the mountains. White snow covered both sides of the car, with no wind blocking the road, only beautiful snow scenery. We couldn't resist asking the driver-guide to stop at several viewpoints to get out, admire the snow, and take photos. The driver-guide said that in winter, heavy snow makes mountain roads dangerous and sometimes closed; we were lucky to have clear weather after the snow and to enjoy such beautiful scenery.

Around 3:30 p.m., we reached Tekapo and checked into the Peppers Bluewater Resort. The resort itself should be decent, consisting of small villas with several rooms each. However, the rooms the travel agency booked were the most basic hotel-style rooms: the bedroom was only about 5-6 square meters, with just a king bed and little space for anything else; the bathroom wasn't large, and there was no bathtub as shown on Ctrip. We had two such rooms, and we switched one due to noise from the outdoor AC unit, but neither had a bathtub, so the photos were misleading. These were the worst hotel rooms of the entire trip, but we managed for one night.

Afterward, the driver-guide took us to the Church of the Good Shepherd on the shores of Lake Tekapo, a popular photo spot. But the church is very small, utterly insignificant compared to the stunning natural scenery—it's just a minor ornament. We were immediately captivated by the beauty of Lake Tekapo, where the sky and lake merged into one. We eagerly walked toward the water, stepping unevenly over the pebbles. The deep blue sky was cloudless, the white snow-capped mountains embraced the clear lake, and both the sky and mountains were perfectly reflected on the mirror-like surface, like a fairyland—you hated to disturb its tranquility. The children, however, couldn't contain themselves; they quickly collected flat stones to build a small cairn, and when we weren't looking, they cupped some chilly water to taste. Phones can capture a tiny slice of beauty, but not the overwhelming feeling that Lake Tekapo gives you at that moment.

As darkness fell, we walked across the metal arch bridge often seen in photos to the parking lot, taking photos in the sunset. Then we looked for dinner. Perhaps due to the off-season, the few restaurants recommended by the driver-guide were closed. Later, the stargazing guide told us those restaurants had closed in the afternoon. The driver-guide said the Chinese restaurant there wasn't good, but we lost contact with him due to poor phone signal. We wandered around and ended up in a Chinese-run restaurant for a Chinese buffet, which was indeed disappointing.

Tekapo is a famous stargazing spot in the Southern Hemisphere. We had already booked a Mandarin-language stargazing tour through the agency, adding the guide's WeChat the day before. At 6:50 p.m., a guide picked us up in a minivan and took us to the stargazing location. This Mandarin stargazing project seemed to be run by a group of Chinese locals; the few staff members wore multiple hats—driver, guide, photographer, and logistics. In the dark, we arrived at a flat area in the mountains, where three telescopes were set up, along with a pile of blankets (it was below freezing at night on the exposed hilltop). It was the fourth day of the lunar calendar, with a waxing crescent moon. The night was clear and cloudless, the moon had set, and the pitch-black sky was full of stars; the light gray Milky Way spanned the sky—perfect for stargazing. Under the guide's direction, we saw Canopus, the star of longevity; the Southern Cross, used by ancient Southern Hemisphere navigators; artificial satellites moving steadily across the sky; the Magellanic Clouds visible only in the Southern Hemisphere night sky; constellations like Virgo of the zodiac; and shooting stars darting across the sky. I remember that when I was a child, on summer nights without a moon, we could see the Milky Way and many stars. But as electric lights multiplied and nights grew brighter, even in the countryside, few stars are visible. So for the children, this was a great opportunity for astronomy education. A slight regret: we missed a solar storm by a few days, otherwise we might have seen the aurora.

After breakfast at the hotel, we set off by car to Queenstown. The scenery along the way was picturesque, but most of the road was winding mountain passes with significant elevation changes. Some shady sections were even icy in the morning, making driving difficult. We stopped at several viewpoints and towns along the way.

Our first stop was Lake Pukaki, known as the "Milky Blue Lake." Perhaps due to weather or angle, we didn't see its typical milky blue color. Still, we witnessed the grandeur of a highland lake, with the distant Southern Alps—including its highest peak, Mount Cook—covered in perennial glaciers. We made a brief stop at the southernmost tourist rest area of Lake Pukaki, at a spot said to be a photo hotspot, and took pictures as a souvenir. However, still enchanted by Lake Tekapo from yesterday, I wasn't particularly impressed by this lake's scenery. The driver-guide said that New Zealand has beautiful mountains, glaciers, and lakes like the Tibetan Plateau, but without altitude sickness. I don't know if that's accurate.

If you turn right at the lake and drive northwest, you'd reach Mount Cook, a famous New Zealand attraction. The driver-guide was surprised and regretted that we hadn't booked this itinerary. Actually, it was in the original plan, but the essence of Mount Cook involves hiking and trekking. Since our trip was family-oriented, focused on leisure and sightseeing, and we had two elderly members over 70, we decisively gave it up and headed straight to Queenstown.

Because highland lakes are clear and unpolluted, some people have started farming salmon there. We visited High Country Salmon near Lake Ruataniwha. There was a small restaurant by the lake, with a wooden platform extending over the water, where a few tables were set for dining and rest. A small opening about 3 meters square allowed feeding the salmon. When we threw in feed, several 3-4 kg salmon rushed from the lake bottom to snap it up. Although concerned about parasites in freshwater salmon, I followed the crowd and tried a little sashimi, but I couldn't tell any special taste or difference. The salmon products in the shop weren't particularly cheap, and they were inconvenient to carry, so we didn't buy any. However, the salmon farm's water quality was excellent; the calm lake surface was like a sapphire, and waterbirds seemed to float on a mirror.

Around noon, we arrived at Lake Wanaka. Lake Wanaka is a famous lake tourist area in New Zealand, ideal for fishing, boating, and swimming. It's also where our driver-guide hoped to buy a house and retire after turning 40. Compared to Lake Tekapo, Lake Wanaka has more of a living atmosphere, yet its natural ecology is equally well-preserved. The driver-guide pointed out the famous Wanaka Tree, which this season (dry period) was fully exposed above water. Such trees are common by lakes in southern China, so it didn't interest us much. Most so-called internet-famous spots are small scenes, suitable as photo backdrops, but when viewed in the grand natural landscape, they are nothing special. We had a simple Western lunch at a small lakeside restaurant; the food was mediocre, and the lamb slices seemed processed—disappointing in a country known for lamb.

Around 4 p.m., we arrived in Queenstown. Queenstown is built along Lake Wakatipu, surrounded by the Southern Alps. When we reached the west shore of Lake Wakatipu, the sun had already hidden behind the mountains, leaving a slight chill. We walked north along the lake toward the town center, taking photos in front of two large fir trees, though the driver-guide's wide-angle mode distorted some images. Queenstown is indeed a world-famous tourist destination; even in the off-season, the lakeside area was bustling with visitors. Cafés and restaurants along the shore were filled with travelers enjoying food and views. The two famous spots—the "best ice cream" and "best burger" in Queenstown—had long queues, a rare sight in Australia and New Zealand.

We strolled aimlessly around town for about two hours. The elderly were tired from the journey and wanted Chinese food. The driver-guide took us to a new area west of the airport for lamian (hand-pulled noodles) and grilled lamb. Afterwards, we checked into the Hilton Queenstown Resort & Spa on the east shore of the lake. The hotel was built to high standards, but each floor had many rooms and long corridors. Since the hotel is built on a slope by the lake, the main entrance from the road is on the 4th floor; it's easy to get lost if not careful. The room had a balcony overlooking the lake and a dock used by water taxis that regularly run to Queenstown center. The room was spacious and comfortable, with an interesting design: each room had a gas fireplace with real flames, protected only by a wire mesh. Such a design would probably not pass fire safety inspections in China. The lobby lounge also had a long open fire without any safety guard, which seemed a bit dangerous for children.

We had pre-booked the Lake Wakatipu steamship cruise and farm tour through the travel agency. However, we hadn't studied the details carefully. The farm tour had two categories: one was farm experience plus afternoon tea, the other was BBQ plus farm activities. The agency had booked the former for us, but we only found out after disembarking at the island.

The drive from the hotel to the steamer dock wasn't far. We arrived in Queenstown early, so the driver-guide took us to explore Queenstown Gardens first. But the morning wind off the lake was chilly, driving us back to the car. Consequently, we arrived at the dock early, exchanged tickets, and queued to board around 10:30. Among the passengers were several study tour groups from China, consisting of primary or middle school students led by teachers. The price was not low.

This old steamship was powered by a coal-fired steam engine. The lower deck had a large open engine room for visitors, where we could see the stoker shoveling coal into the furnace. After the horn sounded, the ship slowly left the dock, sailing steadily toward the middle of the lake. We could go to the bow deck to enjoy the highland lake under blue skies and white clouds, with snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps in the distance, leisurely experiencing the feeling of riding the wind and waves.

About an hour later, we arrived at Walter Peak High Country Farm. This appears to be an open farm for visitors to tour, also a beautiful estate. After disembarking, a young man in traditional work clothes greeted us. The group for the farm experience followed him to the farm at the foot of the mountain. The farm, nestled between mountains and water, had a tranquil lake and babbling streams, like a fairy tale.

The farm was divided into several paddocks by fences following the hillsides, housing about ten types of animals, including Irish cattle, reindeer, and sheep. Visitors could pet and feed them under staff guidance. Our two children had a great time touching the animals they wanted and feeding others. My son even gathered his courage, took a handful of feed, and put it directly into an Irish cow's mouth, just like the keeper.

After the farm, we went to the homestead for an English-style afternoon tea buffet, which included about a dozen types of pastries, coffee, and English black tea. Our family sat at a round table by the window, through which Lake Wakatipu and the distant snowy mountains were clearly visible. Most pastries were very sweet except for sandwiches; I tried a few but couldn't eat much. My mother-in-law, a 70-something Hangzhou native, had a discovery: she said the scones tasted exactly like those she had as a child at Haifeng Western Restaurant. Perhaps because it evoked childhood memories, she ate another one. My wife and children also said they were good. Even though I couldn't afford them in my childhood, I didn't find them particularly special—ha ha. At a neighboring table, a couple ordered a glass of red wine to go with their desserts, adding a touch of romance.

After tea, staff guided us to an open-air stage on the hillside by the farm. Two young New Zealanders demonstrated how to shear a sheep. The highlight was the shepherd using different whistles to command a sheepdog to herd sheep to specific locations or back into the pen.

After the show, our farm tour basically ended. We bought some wool products at the farm's gift shop. Just then, the next steamer arrived, so we quickly boarded. Later, we learned that items at the farm gift shop were the cheapest—cheaper than the specialty store we visited earlier, and cheaper than the tourist shops opposite Queenstown dock and in Auckland city center. However, those three shops seemed to cater mainly to Chinese tourists, as they had Mandarin-speaking salespeople.

Overall, for family or parent-child trips, this tour is worthwhile—leisurely and not rushed, with lots of interactive experiences. Queenstown has many extreme sports activities, but they weren't our cup of tea, so we skipped them all. The lines for the "best burger" and "best ice cream" also scared us off. You can't experience everything on a trip; isn't it more important to stay happy and relaxed?

Around 2:30 p.m., we returned to Queenstown dock. We had a late lunch at Flame Bar & Grill, recommended by our driver-guide. This restaurant specializes in grilled meat; we ordered steak and pork rib sets. Later, online reviews confirmed it's a popular spot in Queenstown. At that hour, there weren't many customers, but we still waited about 20 minutes for our food. The ribeye looked good, but we ordered it too well-done, making it tough and dry. The pork ribs were tender but a bit too sweet for our taste—a less than successful dining experience. But this was our first Western meal in Queenstown, so we focused on the atmosphere.

One of the elderly family members had trouble sleeping due to the disrupted routine and stayed at the hotel to rest during the day. So we did a little shopping in town, packed dinner, and returned to the hotel. The driver-guide was happy to finish early; he had to drive back to Christchurch, arriving home close to midnight. The next morning, we would fly to Auckland. In the evening, we took a lakeside walk to enjoy Queenstown's night view, then went back to pack and rest early. This driver-guide had accompanied us throughout the South Island; he was a young man from Northeast China. Maybe he was cautious or not very familiar with the job; initially, he wasn't proactive—even though he had water, he didn't offer it, and his answers to our questions were vague. His minivan was also a bit old; sometimes the seatbelt wouldn't release after fastening. On the day we went to Kaikoura, he parked on icy ground near a puddle, causing my wife to slip and fall hard. After we reported this to the travel agency, his attitude improved, and by the time we reached Queenstown, he even discussed politics—a topic that concerns many men.

This morning, we were to take Air New Zealand flight NZ614 from Queenstown to Auckland, scheduled to depart at 9:25. Fortunately, the airport was right next to our hotel, so we agreed to leave at 7:30. Queenstown Airport is very small; after entering the terminal, we used self-service kiosks for check-in and baggage, which we were now familiar with. The plane took off at 09:37 and arrived at 11:09. We collected our luggage and met our local driver-guide at door 4 for a half-day tour of Auckland.

Auckland's temperature was a bit higher than the South Island, and the grass and pastures along the road were noticeably greener. Though called a half-day tour, we had no fixed plan. After getting in the car, we discussed with the driver-guide and decided to first visit Queen Street in the city center to experience the city's modern commerce. Auckland finally felt less like a big country town than the South Island, though it wasn't particularly cutting-edge or trendy.

Before we knew it, it was past 1 p.m., and we were hungry. We looked for a restaurant in the streets. This time, we didn't go to a Chinese restaurant; following the children's suggestion, we entered a steakhouse called Angus Steak House on Fort Lane. The entrance was inconspicuous, but inside it was spacious: a chef was grilling steak and lamb chops on an open grill, and a few tables of guests were enjoying their meals and chatting softly. There was only one waitress, a woman in her 20s, who seemed to be of Māori or South Asian descent, along with the chef. The steaks here were very authentic. Having learned from the previous day's mistake, we ordered medium-rare beef, which was much better. However, the restaurant required everyone to order a meal, and we weren't very familiar with the menu, so we ended up ordering too much and had to take some away.

After lunch, on the driver-guide's suggestion, we went to Mount Eden to get a panoramic view of the city. Mount Eden is a conical extinct volcanic crater about 5 km south of Auckland city center. The area was originally a gathering place and fortification for Māori, but most traces have disappeared, covered in grass. A wooden walkway goes around the crater rim, offering a 360-degree view. At the summit, there's a lookout with unobstructed views of the entire Auckland city. The crater is also covered with grass, like a huge green pot—no worries about eruptions, just feeling the wonders of nature.

After descending, we still had time, so we visited a nearby supermarket to experience local life. Our last stop was a park near the airport called Ambury Regional Park. This is a free park combining a farm and a nature reserve, requiring visitors to take their trash away. It was probably getting late, and we seemed to be the only visitors in the vast park. We walked on the grass, watched lambs frolicking by the fence, and took photos in front of a golden picture frame. While we were eating at a picnic table, a mother duck with her ducklings came begging for food. As the sky darkened, we headed to the airport early.

Our return flight was China Eastern Airlines MU780. We had checked in online before leaving, but getting boarding passes checking baggage still took over half an hour. After security, the walk to the gate was long—about 20 minutes. We hadn't bought anything at the duty-free shops before security, and we didn't want to walk back. The plane was scheduled to depart at 21:00 but actually took off at 21:18, arriving at Pudong Airport at 04:42 Beijing time the next day, a flight time of 11 hours 24 minutes. Due to the time difference, we had a 26-hour day, and combined with poor sleep on the plane, everyone was tired. After returning to Hangzhou, it took a while to recover.

This semi-independent trip to Australia and New Zealand was commissioned through a travel agency, and we didn't do much research or planning ourselves, so inevitably there were some regrets. But then again, if everything went according to plan, there would have been no unexpected surprises. During the trip, we made sure to get enough rest and sleep, chartered cars throughout, and didn't schedule too many photo stops, so it was a relaxing, wellness-oriented trip. However, because intercity transportation in these two countries is not as convenient as in China, we took five flights, which was still tiring. Some reflections after the trip:

1. Pay attention to the travel agency's warnings; they are based on others' experiences. You might not encounter issues, but if you do, they could ruin your mood.

2. Australia has unique animals like koalas and platypuses. It would be good to include an interactive zoo in the itinerary to see them all in limited time, and even have close encounters.

3. Since you're traveling to a foreign country, it's better to visit attractions different from those in China. Places like Chinatown are not worth the time.

4. While Melbourne and the South Island of New Zealand offer beautiful scenery along the way, there are many winding mountain roads. Self-driving is not recommended for those unaccustomed to mountain driving, but full-time chartered cars aren't necessary either. Our daily 10-hour car hire cost more than a night's accommodation and could have been optimized. For example, on the day we took the steamship in Queenstown, we used the car for less than an hour, which was a complete waste.

Looking back on this first trip to the Southern Hemisphere—12 days, two countries, four cities—it was a brand-new experience of nature and culture. Places like the Great Ocean Road in Melbourne, the Sydney Opera House and Fish Market, Lake Tekapo and Queenstown in New Zealand's South Island are all worth visiting. Although the trip was not cheap, the rewards were value for money, and it was definitely worthwhile.

Table of Contents:

1. Preparation

2. Day 1 (July 28), Hangzhou to Melbourne

3. Day 2 (July 29), Melbourne City Tour

4. Day 3 (July 30), Great Ocean Road Day Trip + Helicopter Tour of Twelve Apostles

5. Day 4 (July 31), Melbourne City Tour + Kangaroo Spotting + Fly to Sydney

6. Day 5 (Aug 1), Searching for the Phone + Visiting Friends + Sydney City Tour

7. Day 6 (Aug 2), Bondi Beach + Sydney Fish Market + Sydney Centennial Park

8. Day 7 (Aug 3), Sydney to Christchurch, New Zealand

9. Day 8 (Aug 4), Whale Watching in Kaikoura

10. Day 9 (Aug 5), Christchurch to Tekapo + Stargazing

11. Day 10 (Aug 6), Tekapo to Queenstown