【Global Experience】2014 Summer - Eastern USA Tour

My ten-day Eastern USA tour is over. Where to start? The US visa at the beginning of the year went extremely smoothly. My wife has been to the US numerous times, mostly for work. This time, she wanted to use her vacation for fun, and her husband was also very eager to visit the most powerful country on Earth. A ten-day vacation was enough for a whirlwind tour of the Eastern US, which is the history of America. Two months ago, I began arranging the itinerary: Chicago in, New York out, with three domestic flights connecting Buffalo, Washington, and Boston. All flights were booked with United Airlines, so let's start with the airline. United Airlines has daily direct flights from Shanghai to the US, and Chicago is United's hub. It seemed appropriate to entrust all tickets to them. My wife needed to go on business a few days earlier. Flight canceled, mechanical issue—my wife received no notification. After countless phone calls, she had to repurchase tickets and depart. Fortunately, she left smoothly without affecting work. Four days later, I was to depart for Chicago to meet her. Sitting on the plane, waiting for takeoff, three hours later we were forced off the plane. No mechanical issue; according to US law, the crew had exceeded their work hours, so we had to fly the next day.

Frustrated passengers were speechless, but the airline remained calm. Hotel, meals, transportation—everything was arranged. Nothing much to say about the night. The next day we continued our flight. After a flight number change, we finally took off smoothly. The 13-hour flight was not short. There were many young people on summer study tours. Sleeping, eating, looking out the window at the scenery—Chicago arrived. Since we were a day late, we had to fly to Buffalo that evening, leaving only eight hours in Chicago. No chance to visit the United Center to see the old Bulls' home ground. A small regret to save for next time! Chicago O'Hare International Airport is enormous, with four terminals and six runways. It is the US's only dual-hub airport, the base for United Airlines and American Airlines. Even if you are immediately connecting to another US city, you must exit customs and collect your luggage at your first US airport. The immigration line was very long, with many Mexicans! Fortunately, we set foot on US soil smoothly. To save time, I gave up on the subway directions my wife had sent me and took a taxi directly to the city. The black driver was talkative, but my English was too poor to communicate, though people's hearts connect worldwide. Following my wife's instructions, the 30-kilometer journey was not far. I dropped off my luggage and started my tour of Chicago.

Chicago's biggest attraction is its architecture. After the great fire of 1871, countless architectural masters tried their hand in Chicago. The city is full of skyscrapers. The current tallest building in the US, the Sears Tower, is in Chicago. Walking along the Chicago River, I saw the strange corn cob buildings, looked up at the Trump Tower, and strolled all the way to the river's mouth at the lake.

Probably due to jet lag, my legs felt weak, but the surroundings were beautiful. The river water was clear, and many tour boats shuttled about, their tours mainly focused on the riverside architecture. I had my first American meal under the Ferris wheel by the river, learned about American tipping culture, and continued walking. The lakeside was a beach, with many people swimming and exercising in the lake. Countless yachts were anchored offshore.

I visited a chocolate shop, looked at an art museum, and saw Chicago's oldest water tower building, next to the bustling Macy's department store. With a brief understanding of Chicago, I had to leave, heading to Buffalo that evening.

The road to the airport was a bit congested, probably due to evening rush hour. Flight information arrived on my phone: delayed. I waited at the gate, and then another nightmare: the flight was canceled, with no seats available to Buffalo that day. The United Airlines staff were polite; they only handled issues. If there were no seats, there was nothing you could do. All complaints and dissatisfaction had to be submitted on the website; the counter only dealt with what they could handle. Americans seemed calm, quietly queuing and getting what they needed. We could only change to the next afternoon's flight. Using the airline's hotel voucher, we continued to eat and stay at the airport for free. What a frustration! Two canceled flights in three days, three canceled flights in seven days—all with United Airlines. Was it just bad luck? Checking into the hotel, my wife and I planned to change our sightseeing strategy. Many of our pre-booked hotels needed cancellation or changes. Financial loss was secondary; the uncertainty of our itinerary was the real sorrow. We decided to rent a car in Buffalo to save time waiting for buses. Hertz rental car was very efficient; we completed the reservation online and had a good night's rest.

The next day's flight finally took off smoothly. We arrived in Buffalo around 3 PM. Our checked luggage from yesterday was waiting for us at the airport. As a major aviation country, the US has experience in this area. Stepping out of the airport, my mood brightened. No tall buildings here, just comfortable air. Across from the airport was a row of car rental companies. With a Chinese driver's license, you just need to make yourself understood to rent a car. There's no need for notarization; Americans don't understand Chinese notarization anyway. However, laws vary by state in the US, and some might not allow you to rent a car. But here in New York State, it was fine. Buffalo, also called the City of Water, is primarily a destination for Niagara Falls. We picked up the car smoothly. Driving in the US for the first time, with my wife's navigation device, we reached Niagara Falls after a few dozen kilometers. Before reaching the falls scenic area, we could see mist on the road, which turned out to be from the waterfall. Parking cost $10. The falls were open until 8 PM, with no admission fee. We began our visit. Niagara Falls is the world's largest跨国 waterfall, and the second largest transnational waterfall is the Detian Falls between China and Vietnam, which my wife and I visited a few years ago. This one is on the Niagara River between Ontario, Canada, and New York State, USA. Both countries call their town Niagara Town. We walked into the scenic area, passed the visitor center, and soon reached a viewing area to see the side view of the falls. It was spectacular, and all the frustrations were forgotten.

The best way to experience the falls is to take the Maid of the Mist boat tour, getting up close to the falls. The boat ticket was $17. While waiting, raincoats were distributed. To the right was the Rainbow Bridge, connecting the US and Canada, with the Niagara River flowing underneath. If your visa allows, you could drive across. It's said that the US side won't stop you from crossing the bridge, but the Canadian side might turn you back if you don't have a visa.

On the opposite bank, the Canadian town was full of hotels and casinos, all developed for tourists. Boats departed about every 20 minutes. The deck was crowded with tourists as we set off to see the falls. The falls actually consist of three parts: Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls. American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls are entirely within the US, while the most spectacular Horseshoe Falls is transnational. From the American side, you see only the side of Niagara Falls, but from Canada, you get a full view. That's why many say Canada has the better view, similar to the two sides of Hukou Waterfall on the Yellow River. Our boat went directly under Horseshoe Falls, surrounded by mist. It was truly magnificent.

After the tour, we returned to the shore and continued hiking to see the falls from different angles. There was also a memorial to Tesla, because the world's first power station was here.

The falls scenic area was not large, pleasant for walking. Summer sunset came late, so we finally returned to the parking lot for dinner. Since we had a car, we easily returned to the motel in town. There were several supermarkets nearby, which my wife liked.

The next day, we woke up naturally, visited the nearby Target supermarket. The town was quiet and comfortable. Shopping at the supermarket was an unexpected bonus—delicious American cherries. Then we sat by the Niagara River for a while before driving back to the airport to fly to Washington. It happened to be the World Cup final day. We waited for the plane, and a text message said it would be delayed by over an hour. Okay, we were used to it. After a long wait, the plane arrived—a propeller plane, which looked nice. We began boarding, but as soon as we stepped onto the stairs, the US ground staff called us back. My heart tightened again. What happened? Back in the terminal, through the glass, we saw smoke coming from the propeller engine. Fire trucks and police cars arrived; staff were taking photos. Something unexpected had happened.

I wonder what the passengers who just got off were thinking. The flight was canceled again. We were used to it. Three consecutive cancellations: all six flight segments for my wife and me had been canceled. What were the odds? There were still no seats to Washington that day. We had to change our itinerary again. After calculating, we decided to give up the subsequent Boston leg. Harvard and MIT would have to wait. We needed to ensure time in Washington and New York. To leave Buffalo that day, we changed our destination from Washington to New York. Fortunately, United Airlines had an evening flight to New York, and it turned out to be business class, still a propeller plane. After the experience of driving in Buffalo, we checked the price of high-speed rail in New York and felt that rail transport was probably the most expensive in the US, very high-end. We began to like renting a car. The US, a country on wheels, is truly suitable for driving. Our plan: pick up a car at Newark Airport, stay near the airport, and drive to Washington the next morning. With a plan in mind, our mood improved. Using the airline's voucher, we had dinner at the airport, watched Germany win the World Cup, and finally our plane landed safely at Newark Airport. We had completed all our US domestic flights, experiencing two cancellations and one abandonment. Now we could control our own time.

The motel near the airport, booked last-minute, felt like something out of a gangster movie. Not ideal, but we only needed it for one night.

We got up on time the next day and hit the road. There were many cars on US highways, all driving fast but orderly. To get to Washington quickly, we chose toll roads. Unexpectedly, renting a car was not expensive, but tolls were quite costly. Following the navigation, merging with traffic, passing through tunnels and bridges, crossing several states, we arrived in Washington DC just before noon. Our first stop was the mysterious Pentagon. We hadn't booked a tour and just wanted to see the exterior. It's said that foreigners need to make reservations through their embassy, which is troublesome. The mysterious US Department of Defense, the world's largest office building, with tight security. No photos allowed nearby. We took a few sneaky photos, drove around it, and considered it a visit. Not far from the Pentagon was Arlington National Cemetery. We came to the west bank of the Potomac River in Washington DC to see Arlington National Cemetery.

This place appears in many movie scenes and is a perfect representation of American patriotism. It was originally Washington's estate, later the home of his granddaughter Anna and her husband Robert E. Lee. Because General Lee sided with the South in the Civil War, his estate was confiscated by the federal government. During the Civil War, Union casualties were enormous, so Congress approved turning the confiscated Arlington Estate into a national cemetery. By the end of the war, 16,000 people were buried in the central area. We walked around the grounds, saw Kennedy's grave, looked out at the Pentagon from a hill, and explored the Lee family home, which is a historical theme here.

Nearby, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was a highlight. Guards marched back and forth, exuding dignity. We walked toward the exit, past countless headstones—ordinary soldiers, high-ranking generals, some intricately carved, but mostly simple. Soldiers are the main occupants of Arlington.

Crossing the Potomac River, we arrived at the Lincoln Memorial. From here to the Capitol is the essence of Washington.

Parking in Washington was a problem. Street parking had time and hour restrictions. After 4 PM was rush hour. We timed our visit to see the Lincoln Memorial and the Washington Monument. The towering monument was hollow inside, and with a reservation, you could go up for city views.

Before 4 PM, we drove around a bit more, sightseeing, and circled the White House twice. Couldn't park, so we returned to the hotel. The hotel was clean and comfortable, with an old manually operated elevator. A heavy rain cooled things down a bit. After resting, we checked the time and found street parking available again. We went back to the White House, peering through the iron fence at the president's residence. Tours are available with reservations, but it seems easier for US citizens. Foreigners don't know how to book.

The protest tent that had been there for decades was still there. Many tourists were taking photos. After seeing the White House, we had some American fast food on the street and returned to the hotel before dark. Vietnamese pho nearby was our dinner—comforting Asian cuisine.

The next morning, Washington was indeed congested. After slowly driving for about an hour, parking went smoothly thanks to yesterday's experience. Our first stop was the Capitol building, the most famous landmark on the National Mall. Its dome is probably the most photographed image.

Across from the Capitol was the Supreme Court. We took a quick look, walked across the plaza, and entered the Capitol. Enthusiastic staff members gave introductions. We learned that without a reservation, we could still go up to the dome to see the Capitol's highlights, which made us happy. After queuing for about 10 minutes, we watched a short film introducing American founding history. It was in Hollywood blockbuster style, well-produced. It didn't feel overly personal; it focused on integration—how this immigrant nation brought diverse people together while safeguarding their interests. That was the theme.

After the film, a guide led us through the main buildings, explaining history. From the center of the Rotunda to the dome, the hour-long tour was educational.

The House and Senate chambers could also be visited if time permitted.

After finishing the government buildings, we moved on to museums. We found a parking spot on Constitution Avenue. First, the National Museum of American History. Honestly, aside from the first US flag, the museum had little appeal. This is a country with no ancient history; its few hundred years are entirely about industrial civilization. We just skimmed through trains, cars, and modern kitchens.

Next door was the National Museum of Natural History, which is more famous and was the filming location for Night at the Museum. The building was beautiful. The centerpiece was the African elephant specimen. Many children were playing and learning there. The ocean hall and mammal hall had lifelike specimens and excellent environments. We spent over an hour going from animals on the first floor to gems on the second. This museum was much richer than the American History Museum.

Parking was only allowed for two hours, so we hurried to move the car. Then we parked near the National Air and Space Museum and ate hot dogs. Initially, I thought we didn't have enough time and would skip it, but since we were there, we decided to rush through it. It turned out to be the most worthwhile museum of the day. Inside, there were several reentry capsules, planes hanging from the ceiling—all real artifacts. Unassuming moon rocks were touchable. It seems Americans aren't good at history, but they excel at modern technology exhibitions.

From the Wright Brothers' plane to the nose of a Boeing 747, from early rockets to the International Space Station, the huge Hubble Telescope was awe-inspiring. US and Soviet flags appeared on many spacecraft exhibits, likely remnants of past cooperation. From ordinary aircraft to space probes, from WWI fighters to modern aircraft carriers, it had everything. The US truly leads the world in this area. Behind the exhibition hall was a fast-food restaurant. We ate, rested, and prepared to head to New York.

Before getting on the highway, we took a final look at the Jefferson Memorial from the riverside.

Finally, a note: most of these museums belong to the Smithsonian Institution. In the early 19th century, British scientist James Smithson, who never visited the US, bequeathed a large fortune (equivalent to about $10 million today) to the US government to establish a museum complex dedicated to spreading human knowledge. Over nearly 200 years, with continuous US government funding and some private donations, it has grown into a multi-disciplinary research museum group with 19 museums, a zoo, and 9 independent research centers. Most are in Washington DC, with a few in New York, Virginia, and even Panama. Because of its public nature, most Smithsonian museums are free to the public, including many in Washington.

Thanks to the airline's forcing, our perfect Washington trip came to a close. We saw almost everything we wanted. We drove back to New York on the highway, encountering a heavy rain near Newark Airport, but everything went smoothly.

The airport train, operated by New Jersey Transit, cost $15 per person and took us directly to Manhattan. As soon as we emerged from the underground station, we were hit by towering buildings, neon lights, crowded cars and pedestrians—the bustling energy of New York. We transferred to the subway to reach our hotel. If Shanghai's subway scores an 8, New York's subway only gets a 4—extremely run-down and user-unfriendly. We stayed not far from Chinatown. Chinese businesses often keep their restaurants open late. A late-night Chinese dinner in Chinatown was wonderfully comforting.

Our last few days were all in New York, America's largest city. From the window of our room in the morning, we could see the Brooklyn Bridge.

Back in New York, we felt much more relaxed. The first day was reserved for the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

We took the subway directly to Central Park, strolled through the park, and crossed to the museum entrance on Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street. It is one of the world's four major art museums, along with the British Museum, the Louvre, and the Hermitage, with a collection of 3 million pieces.

The museum's lobby was beautiful and grand. The audio guide cost $7, well worth it. According to the guide, this is a place where you could spend a lifetime. While exaggerated, it's true that one day isn't enough to see everything. We saw some familiar pieces, but many were unfamiliar. Crossing the lobby, we went up to the second floor. Catching a quick glimpse of Chinese porcelain in the corridor, we headed straight to Room 206 for the Chinese art section of Oriental art. The Yaowang (Medicine Buddha) Sutra Illustration mural from Guangsheng Temple in Shanxi was a treasure I knew was here. I had visited Guangsheng Temple, learned about the mural's history, and seen pictures of it. But seeing it in person was still stunning.

I sat in front of the mural for a long time. The marks of cutting and restoration were visible. Although the preservation here is world-class and the respect for art commendable, the cutting and transport did damage the original. Of course, the remaining parts in China are even more damaged. Across from the mural was the Emperor and Empress Procession relief from Longmen Grottoes, an exquisite stone carving, but the restoration joints were still obvious—a bit regrettable. Whether these artworks were stolen or sold, history cannot be undone. Their value now lies in being appreciated by us. The room also had many Buddha statues from Xiangtangshan, Yungang, etc., worth seeing. We looked at jade, bronze—the display focused on artistry rather than historical narrative. Suzhou gardens and Chinese ceramics also had their place.

Indian religion, Japanese culture—vast Asian art. Leaving the Asian section, we headed straight to Western oil paintings. Western paintings are definitely the highlight here, but due to cultural differences, we just glanced at them, following the audio guide to see representative works—just a taste. Moving on, Western installation art, various stone sculptures, tribal totem carvings—all were truly impressive.

After a full circuit of the second floor, we were starving. We had lunch at the downstairs restaurant—good food, slightly pricey. Returning to the first floor, the Egyptian section was a highlight. Entire tombs had been moved here, with various mummies and astonishing burial goods. These exhibits sparked my wife's desire to visit Egypt.

Following the map, we really just skimmed through: beautiful glass, impressive armor, various European religious art—not well understood but beautiful. Finally, we were herded out by security as closing time arrived.

We took a bus along Fifth Avenue, walked around, saw the enormous Rockefeller Center, visited the busy Grand Central Terminal. New York's skyscrapers are suffocatingly close together, with very narrow streets. Almost all roads are one-way. Unlike Chicago's well-planned skyscrapers, New York is dense, making you feel like walking in a canyon.

As dusk fell, our last stop was the Empire State Building, New York's tallest building. The 86th-floor observation deck required a ticket—$29, not cheap. But it's featured in many movies and is the best viewpoint in New York. Strangely, we had to queue for over 2 hours to get up. There were black scalpers at the entrance selling tickets; they were probably real, but they added a few dollars. Since they weren't officially recognized, we played it safe and queued. If you want to go up quickly, you could buy a $50 VIP ticket, a bit pricey. Reaching the 86th floor at night, the New York night view was stunning. Shanghai's Lujiazui is nice, but compared to this, there's still a big gap.

We saw New York from all sides. Queuing was exhausting. We returned to the hotel late and rested well.

The next morning, we went to see the Statue of Liberty. We took a bus to the ferry terminal. The $18 ticket still required queuing. It seemed that paid attractions in the US had long lines. An hour of waiting was maddening. Finally, we boarded the ferry. Beyond the bridge was the Atlantic Ocean. The breeze was pleasant.

The Statue of Liberty is not a historical relic but an artificially crafted artwork, now a World Heritage Site. It was a gift from France to the US in 1876 for the 100th anniversary of independence. Located on Liberty Island in New York Harbor, the statue was sculpted by French sculptor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi over ten years. The statue wears a Greek-style robe and a crown with seven spikes representing the seven continents and seven seas. In the late 19th century, there were no transatlantic flights; only ships could cross the ocean, and New York Harbor was the largest US port.

Many immigrants, after months at sea, saw the Statue of Liberty as a sign they had arrived at the land of freedom. We landed on Liberty Island, which is small. Since climbing to the crown required 600+ steps, my wife and I skipped that and decided to walk around the statue. With the audio guide, we learned stories. The statue is quite beautiful, its green color actually caused by copper patina. After a loop, we felt it was worth the time.

Due to time constraints, we skipped the immigration museum and took the ferry back to Manhattan. The ferry offered excellent views of the Statue of Liberty and Lower Manhattan. A short walk from the pier was the financial district. On an inconspicuous street median stood the Charging Bull sculpture, its various parts polished shiny by tourists. We took photos and continued exploring the high-end Wall Street.

We strolled around, saw the beautiful Trinity Church, and Wall Street was right across. Wall Street was originally a Dutch colony, where they built a wall. After the wall was removed, it became Wall Street. Very narrow streets. A few blocks later, we unexpectedly saw the side entrance of the New York Stock Exchange. The front entrance had tight security and was not open for tours.

This place has many legends. Major investment banks and powerful financial firms all have a presence here. It's said that top executives take helicopters to avoid New York traffic; there's a helipad not far away. Across from the Exchange was Federal Hall. Surprisingly, this was the site of the first US Congress.

On April 30, 1789, George Washington took the oath of office as US President here. Federal Hall is free to visit. The statue of Washington stands in front. There are many attractions nearby. Turning past Federal Hall, we walked to a building that looked like it was made of massive stones, with thick iron bars on windows. This was the Federal Reserve Bank. We walked around it; the back door was small, the front entrance low-key. Tours are available by reservation.

The birthplace of the US dollar! Leaving the Fed, not far was the 9/11 Memorial. Two enormous reflecting pools were built on the original footprints, with the names of all victims inscribed on the edges. We came to pay respects. The atmosphere was somber; the pools felt oppressive.

Not far from the 9/11 Memorial was the Brooklyn Bridge. The bridge spans the East River, connecting Brooklyn and Manhattan. It is New York's oldest bridge, at one time the world's longest suspension bridge, and the first to use steel. When completed, it was considered the Eighth Wonder of the World and one of the seven engineering marvels of the Industrial Revolution.

We walked on the bridge, with pedestrian and bike paths above the roadway. Looking at the surroundings: dense cars below, Liberty Island in the distance with the Statue of Liberty, and parallel to it the beautiful Manhattan Bridge. After crossing the bridge, we walked to Chinatown for dinner and returned to the hotel early. Tomorrow was the last day of our tour.

The next morning, we took the M15 bus directly to the United Nations headquarters. New York's bus system is strange, with multiple payment methods: some buses require tapping a card on board, others require buying a ticket from a machine at the stop. The driver doesn't check, but there are inspectors, and if you don't have a ticket, the fine is $120. We didn't have a reservation for a tour, so we could only look at the UN from outside. The entrance was full of journalists and broadcast vans, probably related to the downing of Malaysia Airlines Flight MH17 the previous day.

We had at least visited. At noon, my wife and I decided to have steak at Keens Steakhouse, which has great reviews. Americans usually have lunch around 12 PM. We walked a short distance to the restaurant. The ceiling was covered with pipes, and walls had many old Lincoln photos. The steak was delicious, and the vegetables were even better.

During our days in the US, we had tasted American food. After a satisfying meal, we bought some tasty cherries on the street. Not far away were Times Square and Broadway. Times Square was filled with countless screens. Under a corner screen, the NASDAQ logo was displayed. We had seen this scene countless times on TV. We soaked in the bustling atmosphere. The afternoon was for shopping.

US prices are very competitive. We bought some daily necessities, a perfect finale.

We used the remaining balance on our subway card to visit New York University, the filming location for Sex and the City. After a walk around the campus, my wife commented that it was far inferior to the University of Chicago. Ha!

The next morning, the taxi arrived on time. The driver said that seatbelts are not required in New York taxis but are mandatory in private cars. I don't know why. I doubted this Chinese driver's understanding of traffic laws. We arrived safely at Newark Airport. United Airlines didn't let us down this time. After a dozen hours of flying, we were back in Shanghai.

Travel is always joyful. The many uncertainties at the beginning caused us some losses, but fortunately, my wife and I worked together to make the latter part of the trip圆满. Although giving up the Boston university tour was a regret, the self-driving in Washington was very satisfying. We gained and lost. Changes happen anytime. The most important thing is to be happy...