Self-driving Tour of Gansu and Qinghai Grand Loop in Autumn 2020 (Part 2): Jiuquan, Jiayuguan

2020.10.08 (D3), stayed in Zhangyue yesterday, visited the Giant Buddha Temple, Ping Shan Hu, and the Rainbow Mountains, arrived in Jiuquan in the evening, checked into Jiuquan Hotel. Today plan to first go to Jinta County to see the poplar forests, then proceed to Jiayuguan to visit the Jiayuguan Pass, the First Pier of the Great Wall, and then head directly to Dunhuang.

Jiuquan Hotel is located on South Avenue in the old city of Jiuquan. It is a time-honored hotel with good facilities, warm air conditioning, and a rich breakfast. Departed at 9:00 AM for Jinta, first heading north on South Avenue, passing the Drum Tower intersection and turning right, then east on East Avenue. At 9:05 passed the "Western Han Scenic Site", a park centered on a spring, built to commemorate the story of Huo Qubing of the Western Han pouring imperial wine into the spring to share with his soldiers after a great victory against the Xiongnu. I traveled along the Hexi Corridor in 2008, passing through Jiuquan, and climbed the Drum Tower and visited the Western Han Scenic Site; today we just drove by.

At 9:13 entered the "Jiuquan-Hangtian Expressway" from "Jiudong East", which connects downtown Jiuquan with the Jiuquan Satellite Launch Center. At 9:34 exited the expressway at "Jinta South", turned onto Jiuquan-Hangzhou Road (the section through Jinta county is called Space Avenue), then at 9:38 turned left onto County Road X258 toward the Poplar Forest Scenic Area, arriving at the parking lot at 9:44.

The ticket for the Poplar Forest Scenic Area is 65 RMB per person; X.J. bought one ticket, I am over 70 and get free admission. The scenic area allows self-driving cars to enter, but an additional parking fee of 30 RMB per car is required. The Jinta Poplar Forest Scenic Area is vast, stretching in a northwest-southeast direction. We followed a small loop: Scenic Area Gate → Golden Fields → Sha Zao Lin Viewing Area → Desert Camping Area and Sand Entertainment Experience Area → Dead Poplar Forest → Beacon Tower → Train Camping Area → Yang Village → Poplar Pavilion → Jinbo Lake → Poplar Building → Visitor Center, which covers the most essential part of the scenic area.

At 10:11 arrived at "Golden Fields", featuring flower viewing. There are many varieties of flowers with different blooming periods, so the flower season here extends from May to October. We caught the tail end. Next to the scenic road, there was a large patch of unknown flowers. Though the plants were withered and the blossoms dried, their colors remained vibrant—purple and red stretched in patches, offering great photo opportunities.

At 10:23 arrived at "Sha Zao Lin Viewing Area". Sha Zao (Russian olive) are deciduous trees known for drought resistance, wind and sand resistance, salt tolerance, and poor soil tolerance. However, the Sha Zao here seemed not to be growing well, with sparse fruit, not much to see. Underneath, various sand shrubs had put on autumn colors, mixing red, orange, yellow, and green, making the desert autumn scenery beautiful.

After a brief stop, we continued. The road cuts through vast desert. On the left is the Sand Entertainment Experience Area, on the right the Desert Camping Area. A giant "Transformers" stood in the open sandy area, and a few camels were waiting for tourists, but everything was quiet, seemingly no business. Ahead, dense poplar trees with autumn leaves, a canopy of golden yellow—this section is called "Golden Avenue".

The poplars in the scenic area are all artificially planted, part of the national Three-North Shelterbelt Program, totaling over 80,000 mu. After frost, the poplar forests have fully turned from green to yellow. With no wind recently, the yellow leaves are all intact. Under strong sunlight, the vast poplar forests display dazzling golden, set against the clear blue sky, the beauty of autumn brought us another surprise.

At the end of Golden Avenue, there is an open space for parking. Behind it is a poplar forest with a path leading to the shore of Jinbo Lake, and a small flowing stream, presumably the water source for Jinbo Lake. Poplars can grow in water; their reflections shimmer on the water, creating a unique scene. We didn't go deep into the forest, just lingered near the path entrance, taking photos. At that moment, a couple was strolling along the stream, making it seem like a painting.

Near the parking lot, the area was open; X.J. chose to fly the drone here. He missed the chance in Zhangyue, so he was eager to try it in Jiuquan. Photos from high altitude showed that the road where we stopped had distinct landscapes on either side: the right vast sandy land with sand shrubs, the left dense golden poplar forests stretching endlessly. The drone can fly very high; initially audible, it becomes silent at high altitudes. It was also very small, hard to spot even when I looked up; I was worried it might get lost. But X.J. was confident; he could see the video transmitted to his phone and control it.

While X.J. focused on the drone, I wandered on the sandy ground nearby. Du Mu of the Tang Dynasty wrote, "Frosted leaves are redder than the flowers of spring." The same goes for these sand plants—full of autumn, brilliantly colored; the autumn leaves after frost indeed surpass spring flowers.

X.J. retrieved the drone, and we continued, driving around the dense poplar forest in a big circle toward "Jinbo Lake". At 11:30 passed "Beacon Tower", a modern viewing platform built to resemble an ancient one. You could climb high for a view, but we had the drone for wider views, so we didn't stop. Then we passed "Train Camping Area", where train carriages were converted into inns and restaurants. Next to it, a grove of tall poplars standing in water presented a very peculiar scene. I thought it was Jinbo Lake, but learned it was still ahead, so we drove on.

At 11:38 arrived at Jinbo Lake. It is an artificial lake, surrounded by tall, dense poplars, all artificially planted. Perhaps thanks to the nourishment of Jinbo Lake's water, the poplars along the shore are lush and vibrant. In late autumn, everything is golden. The sky was clear, the lake shimmered; blue sky, clear water, brilliant autumn leaves, and brightly dressed men and women playing and posing under the trees—Jinbo Lake is like a painting, making us exclaim in admiration.

There were several sand causeways on the lake, allowing visitors to walk to the center. X.J. flew the drone again from a causeway. From above, the earth was golden, with dense poplar forests surrounding Jinbo Lake, spreading to the horizon. There was also a large area of poplars growing in water. How could a desert oasis be so rich in water? I guessed there must be a river nearby with abundant flow. Around Jinbo Lake were pavilions, terraces, towers, and bridges, making the scenery comparable to the Jiangnan region.

After retrieving the drone, we walked a full circle around Jinbo Lake. At noon, the sunlight was strong, making the golden hues even more striking. With reflections in the water, the clear sky and autumn water, the beauty of Jinbo Lake was dreamlike.

At 13:00 we left the Jinta Poplar Forest Scenic Area, having spent three hours and twenty minutes there. Next destination was Jiayuguan, planning to drive directly to "The Pass". The distance was not too long; we intended to have lunch after arriving. So we exited the scenic area, drove south on Jiu-Jin Highway, got on G30 Lianhuo Expressway at 13:45, exited at "Jiayuguan" toll station at 14:03, and arrived at "Jiayuguan Great Wall Cultural Tourism Scenic Area" at 14:15, which is the "Jiayuguan Pass". The parking lot is right in front of the ticket office; there are many restaurants nearby. We chose "Wallace" fast food for lunch.

The peak season ticket for the Pass Cultural Relics Scenic Area is 110 RMB per person; real-name purchase required. As I am over 70, I registered with my ID card and got free admission. Jiayuguan was first built during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. Its location is the narrowest point of the Hexi Corridor, leaning on Qilian Mountain to the south and Hei Mountain to the north, only 15 km apart, known as the "First Strategic Pass of Hexi". Because the pass was built on the highest point of the narrow pass, Jiayuguan Hill, it got its name.

Entering the scenic area, you first see the Nine-Eye Spring Lake, the water source for the pass. In the Ming Dynasty, General Feng Sheng, who conquered the Hexi region, decided to build the pass on Jiayuguan Hill mainly because of this spring. Ancient records say: "First there was water, then a pass; then a tower; then the Great Wall; only then could it be defended."

The ticket checkpoint is at the "East Gate". We entered by scanning ID cards. The Jiayuguan Pass consists of an "Inner City" and an "Outer Court". Only the Inner City is the true fortress; the Outer Court is its periphery, with walls but much lower. The East Gate is a gate in the Outer Court's wall.

At 15:05 entered the Outer Court, passing the Stele Pavilion, Stele Corridor, Wenchang Pavilion, Guan Di Temple, and Stage, all ancient buildings. In the Stele Pavilion, there is a stele with "The Most Strategic Pass on Earth" inscribed. The Wenchang Pavilion, Guan Di Temple, and Stage are at the foot of the east wall of the Inner City, necessary passage to enter the Inner City from the Outer Court. We just passed by without detailed viewing.

At 15:15 arrived at Chaozong Gate, the entrance to the Inner City. Entering this gate means entering the core area of Jiayuguan Pass. The Inner City runs east-west, facing the desert to the west (outside the pass) and the current Jiayuguan city to the east (inside the pass). The Inner City is roughly square in shape, with east and west gates: the east gate is Guanghua Gate, the west gate is Rouyuan Gate, each with a hip-and-gable tower. Additionally, each gate has a barbican (protective enclosure) outside. Chaozong Gate is the gate protecting the east barbican of Guanghua Gate. It faces south, not directly aligned with Guanghua Gate (east), to make the entry route winding and easier to defend.

Furthermore, outside the west barbican, there is a wall called "Luocheng" (outer rampart). Its northern and southern ends connect to the Outer Court walls, extending south to the "First Pier of the Great Wall" and north to the "Hanging Great Wall". The gate of Luocheng faces west (outside the pass) and has a three-story hip-and-gable tower called "Jiayuguan Tower". So, the Jiayuguan Pass has three tall towers: from west to east, Jiayuguan Tower, Rouyuan Tower, and Guanghua Tower.

Entering the east barbican through Chaozong Gate, the towering Guanghua Gate appeared, with a plaque reading "First Great Pass on Earth". We then passed through Guanghua Gate into the Inner City, revealing the "gate within gate" view.

The Inner City is surrounded by tall walls. Inside, there is the "Youji General's Mansion", the residence of the garrison commander of Jiayuguan during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The original building is long gone; the current one was rebuilt on the original site in 1987. It has two courtyards: the front court displays the general's office with wax figures depicting command, defense, and issuing passes; the rear court is the private residence, showing the general and his family's life.

At 15:34 we climbed the city wall via the ramp at Guanghua Gate, then walked along the north wall to Rouyuan Gate. From the north wall looking west, we could see Rouyuan Tower and Jiayuguan Tower one behind the other—an ideal spot for a "Jiayuguan souvenir photo". Turning east, we saw Guanghua Tower towering and the Mansion below. The interior of the Pass is quite empty; the Mansion is the only ground building. Outside the pass, the scene was even more desolate—vast Gobi desert stretching to Hei Mountain in the distance.

Continuing, we reached Rouyuan Tower, also called the West Tower, built in 1506 during the Ming Dynasty. It is a three-story, three-eave hip-and-gable structure, dignified and elegant. The platform of Rouyuan Tower is spacious; in front, across the west barbican, is the tower of Jiayuguan Gate; behind, it faces Guanghua Gate and overlooks the Mansion among greenery.

Here there is a "One Brick" attraction. According to legend, the Ming craftsman in charge of construction, Yi Kaizhan, calculated precise material requirements. Upon completion, only one brick remained. That brick is now placed on the eaves platform of the west barbican gate, displayed as "the last brick" for visitors.

The gate of the west barbican (Huiji Gate) also faces south, perpendicular to Rouyuan Gate (west), for defensive purposes. We walked around the west barbican wall, a great spot for photos, capturing both Rouyuan Tower and Guanghua Tower together, or a full frontal view of Rouyuan Gate.

We descended from the wall at Rouyuan Gate, exited the west barbican to the south, then climbed the Luocheng wall via the ramp at Jiayuguan Gate. In the entire Jiayuguan complex, only the Luocheng where Jiayuguan Gate stands is part of the main Great Wall; the Inner City with Guanghua and Rouyuan Gates is an independent fortress, not directly connected to the Great Wall. Jiayuguan Gate is the most protruding part of the entire Pass, offering very wide views. Looking south, the Great Wall stretches like a dragon to the horizon, its head being the First Pier. Looking north, there is only vast Gobi with a power plant standing on the desolate land. The Luocheng is also an excellent photography spot, framing both Rouyuan and Guanghua Towers.

At 16:05 we passed through Jiayuguan Gate and stepped out onto the desert outside the pass. Looking back, we could see the full view of Jiayuguan, with three towers—Guanghua, Rouyuan, and Jiayuguan—standing in a row. This is the best spot for a "Jiayuguan souvenir photo", highlighting the majestic grandeur of the ancient pass.

"Jiayuguan Gate" is considered the main gate of Jiayuguan. The archway is inscribed with the characters "Jiayuguan"; the tower bears a plaque with the same. The gate tunnel is 25 meters long, 4.2 meters wide, and 6.3 meters high, paved with stone slabs of various sizes. Centuries of traffic have left deep wagon wheel ruts on the stones, still clearly visible.

At 16:52 we finished sightseeing, walked eastward through the three gates, and straight out of Jiayuguan. At the exit, there is a huge Qilian Mountain stone monument with green and white stripes, inscribed with Chairman Mao's handwritten version of Lin Zexu's poem "Feelings on Leaving Jiayuguan":

"The stern pass a hundred feet divides the western sky; Thousands of miles of marching men here halt their horses' neigh. The flying pavilion far links with the straight Qin trees high; The slanting wall weighs down the clouds of Long below. The Tian Shan Mountains stand shoulder to shoulder steep; The vast desert stretches blurred and wild into the deep. Who says the Hangu Pass was forever fortified? Look back, it is just a pellet of mud."

Chairman Mao's calligraphy is considered the first of modern cursive script. His "Mao style" appears wild and unrestrained but follows rules—bold and audacious, free and flowing, executed in one breath. Chairman Mao's transcription of Lin Zexu's poem shows his respect for this famous patriot.

Returning to the parking lot, it was past 17:00. We still had to rush to Dunhuang. "Jiayuguan Great Wall Cultural Tourism Scenic Area" includes three spots: The Pass, the First Pier, and the Hanging Great Wall, all covered by one ticket. I had visited the First Pier and the Hanging Great Wall in 2008. The First Pier is just an earth mound, but the Taolai River Gorge where it sits is spectacular, well worth seeing. Moreover, the First Pier is on our way to Dunhuang from the Pass, so I strongly recommended it to X.J. The Hanging Great Wall is north of the Pass, opposite direction to Dunhuang, and the original has long gone; the current one was rebuilt in recent years. Since time was tight, I didn't recommend it.

At 17:40 arrived at the parking lot of the "First Pier of the Great Wall" scenic area. This is the entrance with ticket office and checkpoint. The ticket is linked with the Pass; we had already registered our IDs at the Pass, so we just scanned IDs to enter. However, this spot is only the starting point for the scenic shuttle bus. The actual First Pier is 2 km away. Although we didn't need tickets, we still bought two shuttle bus tickets to go to the First Pier.

After about ten minutes on the shuttle, we arrived at the First Pier, perched on the cliff edge of the Taolai River Gorge. The Taolai River originates from "Taolaizhang" in the middle section of the Qilian Mountains, flowing through Jiayuguan, Jiuquan, and Jinta, eventually joining the Heihe River. The Taolai River Gorge is very different from the gorges I've seen along the Yangtze, Jinsha, Nujiang, Lancang, and Yarlung Tsangpo rivers. It is not a mountain gorge but a gorge cut into the flat Gobi desert, offering a completely different landscape.

Next to the First Pier is the "Great Wall History and Culture Exhibition Hall". Both are on the high cliff top on the north wall of the Taolai River Gorge, but the exhibition hall is excavated underground beneath the cliff top. The entrance looks like a cave. We walked down a slope into the underground, arriving at an underground hall with windows facing the gorge. This was originally the launch platform for a zip line across the gorge, with several halls. However, business was poor, and the zip line closed; the hall has now been converted into an exhibition hall. The main attraction is a glass-bottomed observation deck protruding over the cliff, more than 80 meters above the valley floor. Since it is all glass, walking on it is inevitably heart-pounding.

From the observation deck, we saw the ancient alluvial fan plain at the foot of Qilian Mountain. The ground is very flat, but underneath is thick gravel and cobble accumulations. Over millions of years, deposition and pressure made these deposits compact, hard as concrete when dry, but easily washed away by water. Over time, the Taolai River cut a deep, wide valley into the alluvial fan. The cliffs on both sides are nearly vertical, with flat surfaces as if cut by a knife—a natural wonder.

Such a deep valley was also a natural defensive barrier in ancient times. Thus, the westernmost end of the Ming Great Wall only extended to the First Pier adjacent to the gorge, making the deep valley an insurmountable gap for invading cavalry. However, from the observation deck, we could see that years of water erosion have visibly damaged the cliff foot beneath the First Pier, causing the lower part to collapse and undercut, making the First Pier precarious. When I visited in 2008, the water was almost reaching the foot of the cliff under the First Pier. Remedial measures have been taken: a thick dam has been built at the cliff foot to divert the water far away.

There is also an underground hall dedicated to the Great Wall across China, with many valuable photos taken in the early 20th century or even the 19th century. Some scenes no longer exist or have greatly changed; if reconstruction is ever planned, these photos would be invaluable references. The hall has a small door leading to a natural platform on the outer cliff of the gorge. This platform connects to a road on the cliff top, presumably for transporting supplies. The cliff platform has no railings, but the view is even wider. X.J. insisted on going to the edge to take photos, which made me very worried, but fortunately it turned out safe.

Leaving the underground exhibition hall and back on the surface, the "First Pier of the Great Wall" is nearby, but due to long disrepair, it is now just an earth mound. However, its historical significance is extraordinary; it is the first beacon tower at the westernmost end of the Ming Great Wall, analogous to the "Old Dragon Head" at the eastern end where the Great Wall meets the sea at Shanhaiguan, respectively the western and eastern starting/ending points of the Ming Dynasty's Great Wall. The Old Dragon Head had collapsed but was rebuilt, changing its appearance, but this earth mound remains dilapidated. Next to the mound, a stele reads: "The Great Wall begins here." There is a gap in the wall near the First Pier; one can take a path down into the gorge. I had walked down in 2008, but now it was 18:20, and we still had to go to Dunhuang. X.J. felt time was tight and was already very satisfied with what he had seen, so he didn't want to go elsewhere.

Taking the shuttle back to the ticket office, we found our car and immediately set out for Dunhuang. At 18:39 we re-entered G30 Lianhuo Expressway at the "Heishan Lake" toll station. At 18:48 we saw the sun set, and soon we were driving at night. We stopped at "Yumen Service Area" to refuel and have dinner. However, it was dark and we didn't see a restaurant, so we bought instant noodles and sausages from a small supermarket to fill our stomachs. After eating, we refueled, only then discovered the restaurant was right next to the gas station. The gas station did not accept bank cards or mobile payments; X.J. had no cash. Fortunately, I am old-school and always carry cash; I paid 160 RMB for gas.

Continuing on G30 Lianhuo Expressway, then transferring to G3011 Liuge Expressway, we exited at "Dunhuang" toll station at 22:12, entered Dunhuang city, and checked into "Dunhuang Hotel" at 22:34. There was a slight problem at check-in: we had prepaid in full for a deluxe standard room, but the hotel had only reserved a standard standard room for us, and now deluxe standard rooms were unavailable. Eventually, they upgraded us to Building 8 (top-level) deluxe standard room for free, so all's well that ends well.