Paris, Intoxicating Your Every Limb! – A Four-Day, Three-Night Museum Tour of Paris

📍 Paris · 👁 9425 reads · ❤️ 35 likes

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.

I never lived in Paris when I was young, but I did go there with my little girl.

Paris, a place everyone in the world dreams of!

Those who haven't been want to go; those who have been want to go again!

(Why is the first photo lying sideways? Many later ones are also tipped over, and I can't seem to right them!)

As Xu Zhimo said: Those who have been to Paris will no longer yearn for heaven; those who have tasted Paris, honestly, don't even want to go to hell.

Since the pandemic, we haven't been able to freely travel abroad. One day, my little girl said: Mom, I really want to go to Paris again!

Yes, who doesn't want to go again?

Since our first trip to Paris for my cousin's rustic French wedding, Paris has been with us always, with the words echoing in our ears: 'Don't forget, come back!'

We love Paris, love its countless museums and galleries scattered throughout the city.

We love jogging along the Seine in the early morning light.

We love the lively atmosphere on the square in front of the Eiffel Tower at sunset.

We love lying on the Seine embankment at night, smelling the coffee aroma while watching the boats glide by.

We love the sounds and colors created by locals and tourists.

We love the cafes, boutiques, galleries, and bookstores along the streets, where historical traces like bas-reliefs and statues on buildings can be found everywhere.

We love the bakeries coexisting harmoniously with lampposts and cobblestone streets.

That summer, after picking up a car at Charles de Gaulle Airport, we took a big road trip through southern France and finally returned to Paris.

Paris, I've come, I can't forget you!

The people of Paris are fortunate; the myriad of museums and galleries are enough for locals to enjoy for a lifetime, to their heart's content!

After checking in and dropping off our luggage, we strolled familiarly to the Left Bank, crossed the bridge toward Notre-Dame on the Right Bank.

What drew me back to Notre-Dame was not the fire, but a fleeting glimpse as a child watching the movie 'The Hunchback of Notre Dame,' following Quasimodo into the church and seeing the rose window!

As we stepped onto the bridge, we saw Notre-Dame, with over 850 years of history, standing on the Île de la Cité across the Seine. From a distance, it looked unchanged, but knowing its former appearance, a closer look revealed that the spire, over 130 meters high, was missing.

The first fully Gothic church in European history with epoch-making significance, and one of Paris's most historic and iconic monuments, it suffered severe damage during the French Revolution, was rebuilt in the 19th century, yet did not escape the disaster of April 2019!

At a crosswalk waiting for the traffic light, the sun emerged from the clouds, casting a golden glow on the cathedral's facade. If not for the renovation notice on the temporary wall in front of the square, you would never guess it had been devastated!

Under the setting sun, I walked toward Notre-Dame. Cars whizzed by, and I suddenly felt as if I were witnessing the fire: On April 15, 2019, at 6:50 PM local time, a fire broke out at Notre-Dame, which was undergoing restoration work under scaffolding. Thick smoke darkened the sky over the Seine. The fire spread quickly and was hard to control.

Under the watchful eyes of a tense crowd, the iconic spire of Notre-Dame burned through and collapsed. The treasures inside largely survived, and the main structure remained, but the burned roof and collapsed spire might take years to repair.

We arrived less than four months after the destruction. Standing outside the fence, the silent expressions of the tourists dimmed the brilliance of the setting sun. They no longer took excited photos as before; most were quietly reading the notice boards, bowing their heads in contemplation, or gazing up at the cathedral.

Under these special circumstances, 15 minutes sufficed for a visit to Notre-Dame. Before leaving, I looked back at the enchanting outer wall of the rose window. In my mind's eye flashed the colorful rose window illuminated by sunlight inside the church, and the heart-shaped fireworks beneath it at night. I seemed to smell the scent of the cathedral being scorched by the fire!

The destroyed rose window, 800 years of history vanished into smoke... Notre-Dame, now undisturbed by tourists, settled into quietness, awaiting restoration.

Continuing westward, we passed through the Hôtel de Ville square and reached the Louvre in about twenty minutes.

The Louvre, the heart of Paris, is one of the oldest, largest, and most famous museums in the world. A treasure trove and a gathering place for crowds, a must-visit for regular tour groups. To avoid the crowds, we planned to visit at night.

So we chose LE CAFE MARLY restaurant on the arcade side of the square. The interior decoration was luxurious but empty; everyone was gathered under the Louvre arcade outside, facing the pyramid entrance, having afternoon tea.

My little girl said she was hungry, so we had an early dinner. The location was perfect for watching the bustling crowds in the Louvre square and the long queue at the glass pyramid entrance... When the queue shortened, I checked my watch: 6:30. So we paid, left our seats, descended the steps to the square, and headed for the Louvre entrance.

(Aside: There are various types of museum passes at the airport, valid for 1 to 7 days with different prices; a 3-day pass is usually the best choice.)

With pre-purchased passes, the wait time was greatly reduced, and we entered the museum quickly. However, inside, there was already a long queue for the Mona Lisa. Thinking I was clever, I pulled my husband and daughter toward another staircase, knowing it led to the Venus and the Victory of Samothrace.

Sure enough, there were few people, so we three circled the goddess for a close look!

After that, my husband was eager to find the Code of Hammurabi. We followed the route to the third floor. Many exhibition halls were empty; the Egyptian antiquities department was closed for renovation. No staff to ask. Had the Code disappeared like the Babylonian Empire? We continued along the gallery, thinking we could reach the stairs to the Victory of Samothrace.

But we encountered a barrier ahead, so we followed the sparse crowd. To our surprise, we ended up in the 'Mona Lisa' queue, forced to shuffle along to the fifth floor to pay homage. Previously, she was on a wall on the second floor, behind a full glass partition where people could linger. Now, her painting was placed in the center of the fifth-floor gallery, with two barriers, and groups of 20-30 people were let inside, each group given only two minutes. Everyone held up their phones to take photos, jostling in an assembly-line viewing. This was not an exhibition experience at all; there was no enjoyment. Both visits to the Louvre were packed with people busy taking photos and checking in, leaving a bad impression.

Louvre ticket prices: 17 euros for adults, free for children. Our 3-day pass included the Louvre.

If you love art and museums, I honestly don't recommend the Louvre. I think the Musée d'Orsay and the Pompidou Center are better for viewing and appreciating art. Of course, their collections differ, so if time is limited, you have to make choices.

Surrounding this iconic pyramid structure are the Tuileries Gardens. These beautiful gardens, among the most beautiful in the world, are perfectly integrated with the art museum, reflecting its character.

During our short stay in Paris, several families went their separate ways. Our friends, visiting Paris for the first time, wandered around after we gave them some pointers on major attractions. My family continued to immerse ourselves in museums.

On the second day, we went to the Pompidou Center. A summer shower hit, but inside the center it was clear.

The Pompidou Center is the most important modern art museum in Europe and one of the most magnificent art museums in the world. Its collection includes works of Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, and Abstract Expressionism. We took the escalator under a cylindrical canopy directly to the fourth floor to start viewing.

The fourth and fifth floors house the Musée National d'Art Moderne, which holds works by artists such as Kandinsky, Matisse, Miró, and Picasso.

Since these museums were revisits, we couldn't help comparing with previous visits. Many pieces were out on loan, leaving the walls somewhat sparse. There were more people than six years ago, a bit noisier. Previously, we could sit on the glass-roofed terrace on the fourth floor, but now we could only cast envious glances through the windows.

Near the exit on the fifth floor, there was a pink-themed trendy restaurant. We stepped out onto the gallery, leaned on the railing, and looked into the distance. The Sacré-Cœur Basilica on Montmartre commanded the center of the view!

After the museum, a downpour prevented us from going further. We quickly ducked into a restaurant on the side of the Pompidou Center square. During afternoon tea, without the company of sunshine, we had raindrops leaking through the canopy as company—a rare memory!

'No matter where or when, if you are willing to look back, I will be waiting.'

After visiting the Pompidou Center, we rested briefly under a café awning. Soon the sky cleared, and we set off for the Champ de Mars.

The Eiffel Tower is a symbol of steel, representing freedom and a romantic love that transcends tradition. This observation tower of Paris has three observation decks, which can accommodate tens of thousands of people overlooking Paris from different angles. Different perspectives bring different moods. When you reach the top and look far into the distance, the noisy Paris suddenly becomes quiet, turning into a huge map, with a view extending up to 60 kilometers.

Since its completion, the tower has become a symbol of France, showcasing the French people's imaginative romantic flair, artistic taste, innovative courage, and sense of humor.

Take Metro Line 1 and transfer to Line 4; in two or three stops, you'll reach the Eiffel Tower station. We had climbed the tower before, so this time we went directly to the Champ de Mars. The square was crowded with people; everyone had chosen this time. The twilight light was perfect for great photos.

Standing beneath the Eiffel Tower, looking up at its height, I cherished my happiness. The setting sun cast soft golden light on the tower and on our faces, incredibly gentle. Many couples came here to take commemorative photos.

Our travel companions, Jiahao and his sister Wenwen, planned to have their father present roses to their mother on the tower's observation deck to appease her weary heart from caring for the two children. Since we went to the Champ de Mars, we didn't capture the romantic moment of Jiahao's parents. Back at the hotel, Jiahao's mother said she had a cup of coffee on the tower, full of coffee intoxication. The tower captivated the city, but even more so, it captivated lovers.

Without the Eiffel Tower, would Paris still be Paris?

Montmartre is one of the witnesses to Paris's historical vicissitudes. The famous white-domed Sacré-Cœur, Place du Tertre, Place Pigalle, Moulin Rouge, and Le Lapin Agile are all here.

Many artists have created works in Montmartre, including the eccentric Salvador Dalí, Italian painter Pablo Picasso, and Vincent van Gogh.

Take Metro Line 2 to Anvers or Pigalle stations, walk past residential buildings, various shops, cafes, and undulating streets for about 1 km to reach Place du Tertre.

With my little girl, each time we passed by the Moulin Rouge without entering, bypassed the Museum of Eroticism, and headed straight to Place du Tertre. Looking at the paintings of the artists in the square, we could always find something we liked after a full circle. There were many portrait sketch artists. Among the masters on Montmartre, the Chinese painter was the most skilled. I remember six years ago, an elderly man with a high nose and a beret, looking very artistic, did a quick sketch for my little girl for 15 euros, but it wasn't as good as what my husband could draw. After that, we never fell for that trick again.

Instead of visiting the Café des 2 Moulins from the movie 'Amélie,' we dined outdoors at the CHEZ EUGENE restaurant on Place du Tertre. There were many people, and we had to watch out for pickpockets. Surrounded by paintings from the circle of artists under the trees, the air was mixed with the scent of food and paint. Even Western fast food had an artistic flavor!

A few steps down from the restaurant side of Place du Tertre, hidden at the corner, was the Dalí Museum. A few motorcycles were parked outside, with no large advertisements. Pushing open the understated glass door, we were greeted by Dalí's Montmartre space, with his eccentric, bold paintings presented prominently.

This museum was personally designed by Dalí, showcasing his surrealist art in full. It was full of the incredible. Finally, my little girl happily took away a limited-edition print (No. 168 of 500) of Dalí's 'Alice in Wonderland' from the museum collection, one that she fancied. The Dalí Museum is a niche attraction and requires a separate ticket.

The pass does not cover the Dalí Museum; the 12-euro ticket (9 euros for children) is absolutely worth it.

Exiting Dalí's space, we continued down the steps to the street corner, where the famous Wall of Love stands. The building across the street was even more eye-catching.

If we turned and walked a few dozen meters horizontally upward, we would reach Place Pigalle. Just then, we encountered a beautiful woman playing the harp. The melodious music attracted everyone; tourists sat on the steps of the square, pausing to listen. Those interested could buy tickets to go inside the basilica.

Leaving Montmartre, we returned to the hotel directly to put away Dalí's Alice, then headed out to the Musée d'Orsay.

The Musée d'Orsay was very close to our hotel, a ten-minute walk. Originally built as a railway station in 1900, it was later converted into a museum, displaying art works from 1848 to 1915.

The Musée d'Orsay houses many masterpieces by great artists including Delacroix, Manet, Gauguin, Cézanne, Monet, Renoir, Sisley, van Gogh, and many more.

Based on the museum's structure, the exhibition layout is simple and easy to navigate, without missing any gallery. Although van Gogh's Sunflowers, Starry Night, Café Terrace at Night, and other famous works were on loan, there were many works by Gauguin and Cézanne. Taking the time to appreciate them was very satisfying—you really get your fill, and because the space isn't too large, you don't tire out like at the Louvre.

Located on the banks of the Seine, facing the Tuileries Gardens, the Musée d'Orsay itself is a work of art. Its magnificent architecture and precious collections will surely captivate you.

Free admission to this amazing museum with a Paris Pass—saving 9 euros.

Day after day of exhibitions and museum visits left our legs exhausted.

The Picasso Museum is very small and unremarkable; it doesn't take much time. On the third day, we headed straight for Picasso. I had seen his early works, including many sketches, in his hometown of Málaga, Spain. In Paris, we couldn't miss the most fashionable Picasso Museum.

Located in the splendid Hôtel Salé, the Picasso Museum in Paris is one of the world's most impressive and comprehensive collections of Picasso's works. Although the museum is not large, it holds over 5,000 works, including tens of thousands of archival documents, many of which are masterpieces.

These collections include artworks, sculptures, photographs, and sketches on various themes. This charming museum not only allows visitors to understand Picasso's multifaceted artistic expression but also to appreciate the true skill of this world-class artist.

There weren't many people at the Picasso Museum; visitors there were probably true art lovers! Our three-day pass did not include the Picasso Museum, so we had to buy separate tickets.

- Saint-Paul station (Metro Line 1)

- Saint-Sébastien-Froissart station (Metro Line 8)

- Chemin Vert station (Metro Line 8)

- Bus lines 20, 29, 65, 75, 69, 96

Adults 14 euros, children free

Parisians are enviably lucky to have so many museums and galleries of all sizes to enjoy at their leisure. Tourists, in their short time, try to see as much as possible. To avoid 'Stendhal Syndrome,' after each museum, we would walk along the Seine, pick a café for a drink, rest our feet, and enjoy the scenery!

Strolling along the Left Bank of the Seine at night, the lights were dazzling and lively.

Macarons in Paris are undoubtedly a classic dessert! My little girl isn't fond of macarons, but she was determined to visit Angelina, a pastry shop that shares her English name.

Years ago, while visiting the Louvre, we happened upon the Angelina inside and had a memorable encounter with exquisite pastries, which strengthened her resolve to find the flagship store.

After visiting the Musée d'Orsay, the fresh air was exhilarating. Following the GPS to Angelina felt like a culinary pilgrimage.

We walked to a small street whose name I've forgotten and saw 'Angelina' from afar. The store was small, with a note on the door: 'Away, waiting 5 minutes.' The Parisians' 5 minutes were slower than expected; we killed time taking photos outside. After about 10 minutes, a staff member came to open the door.

Inside, we grabbed a bunch of items, including the classic Kilimanjaro cake. Parisians' refinement is not just in their attire; the aesthetic of pastries and packaging is equally meticulous.

Carrying the pastry bag, we continued toward the Luxembourg Gardens. The shop at the entrance to the garden was the real flagship store of Angelina. Since we had learned that the shop closes at 5 PM, we bought pastries at the first store we passed. When we reached the flagship store, it was indeed no longer serving customers. With our pre-purchased pastries, we sat in a corner of the park and enjoyed them—a unique pleasure.

Our short stay in Paris was very pleasant.

In the early morning, I put on my running shoes and jogged with my husband along the Left Bank to the Right Bank, passing the Louvre. In the morning light, the Louvre was undisturbed by tourist noise, its soft contours outlined by gentle rays—calm and serene, like a host resting after busy guests had left.

We ran into the Tuileries Garden heading toward the Eiffel Tower, but a barrier blocked our way. We turned back into the garden, left the Louvre, and passed the Pont des Arts, also known as the Love Lock Bridge. Although the government no longer allows people to attach padlocks to the railings due to the bridge's weight, you could still feel the romantic aura.

In old Paris, it's easy to feel the organic blend of locals and tourists, especially after a run, when you stop at a street café for a cappuccino, fresh juice, and a just-baked croissant—a quintessential Parisian breakfast!

After settling our appetite, we went to Carrefour for milk, potatoes, tomatoes, eggs, and bread, then brought them back to cook breakfast for my little girl, who was still asleep. Although her Chinese stomach can handle dinner without fuss, she still prefers something savory for breakfast. Our hotel's small kitchen came in handy.

Our hotel was right next to Place Saint-Michel, the heart of Paris, with a tourist hub on one side. One morning, we went for a run in the Luxembourg Gardens; in the evening, we dined nearby after returning. Place Saint-Michel is surrounded by famous cafes, bars, and bookstores. Every time we returned from shopping on Boulevard Saint-Germain, we passed Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots. I wanted to go in and experience the essence of the Left Bank culture, but they were always overcrowded, leaving no chance to follow in the footsteps of Sartre, Picasso, Chagall, and Hugo!

The joy of city sightseeing is that you can sit down anytime for coffee and pastries. During our days in Paris, lunch was usually a simple café meal, while dinner was a proper affair.

The small streets running north-south from Place Saint-Michel are filled with restaurants, pastry shops, and boutiques of all sizes. You can find cuisines from around the world here, prepared in the most authentic ways. One evening, we went out to search for food, heading north from Place Saint-Michel. About a kilometer from the hotel, we found another lively neighborhood and happened upon a trendy restaurant. Street-side, pretty girls were taking photos for social media, and guys were doing acrobatic stunts for spare change.

From afternoon tea onwards, outdoor tables and chairs were always filled with cheerful people drinking coffee, savoring red wine, and feasting on delicious food.

During our stay in Paris, the families split up. Since we had been there many times, we didn't waste time on general sightseeing; we spent almost all our time immersed in the many museums and galleries. We truly envied the Parisians for having such a wealth of venues to enjoy for most of their lives.

The day before ending our France road trip, we set aside a full day to accompany several mothers to complete their 'difficult mission' of shopping. Women love shopping, and I'm usually not a fan, but in Paris, even I fell in love with strolling the streets—from Avenue Montaigne and the luxury boutiques on the Champs-Élysées to the small boutiques in Saint-Germain. I finally understood the joy of shopping—tired but happy!

Unforgettable Paris, I will go again!

1. We stayed once more at our old place—Hotel Residence Des Artes (Résidence des Artes). Although not large, it was extremely convenient! By Place Saint-Michel, on the Left Bank of the Seine, with the artistic atmosphere of the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain, high safety, within a half-hour walk to most major Paris attractions, 100 meters from the metro, and a metro connection to the airport.

2. The hotel's location was very convenient—right on a street with bars, lively at night, and across the street was a food street. We tried different cuisines every day. A five-minute walk to Notre-Dame, a morning run to the Louvre passing the Musée d'Orsay; a short walk to Rue Saint-Michel. Every morning during my run, I passed the famous Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots.

3. The Paris Pass is a perfect package for tourists exploring this wonderful city. With the pass, you can explore up to 60 attractions for free, plus get a free metro travel card. Some niche museums require separate tickets. Well thought out, stress-free sightseeing.

4. We stayed in Paris for four days and three nights, but effectively only three full days. The day of arrival and departure counted as half days each. So we had to pick and choose museums; we couldn't see everything. During our half-day of shopping, my husband took my daughter to the Palais de la Découverte, which is close to the Champs-Élysées. Its natural history exhibits were very popular with children.

5. Over the years, we have visited the Musée de l'Orangerie, the Rodin Museum, the Musée de l'Armée, and Les Invalides—all well worth seeing.

Travelogue index:

1. A Glimpse of Notre-Dame

2. The Heart of Paris: The Louvre

3. The Magnificent Poem of the Pompidou Center

4. Captivating the City and Hearts: The Eiffel Tower

5. The Hill of Mars: Montmartre

6. The Most Beautiful Musée d'Orsay

7. The Most Fashionable Picasso Museum

8. Searching for Angelina Pastries

9. Little Joys of a Short Stay in Paris

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