The Most Beautiful Ancient Village in Heyuan, Guangdong: Home to Su Shi's Descendants, Known as 'The Painted Village of South China'
Guangdong Province is one of the main settlements of the Hakka people. The Hakka in Guangdong are mainly concentrated in eastern and northern Guangdong, among which Heyuan is a well-known Hakka township. Here, close to the mountains and bonded with water, there are many ancient Hakka villages scattered across Heyuan, making it a great place to explore the charm of Hakka culture and experience Hakka folk customs.
In Yihe Town, more than 20 kilometers from downtown Heyuan, there is an ancient Hakka village called 'Sujiawei'. This is an important origin of Hakka culture and one of the important birthplaces of Lingnan culture. Surrounded by greenery with beautiful scenery, Sujiawei perfectly blends Hakka culture with Dongpo culture, and has long been known as 'The Painted Village of South China'.
This village is situated at the confluence of two rivers, where the Dongjiang River and the Jiushe River meet. With a history of over 700 years, it is nestled between mountains and water, surrounded by greenery. The river and the village complement each other, with old houses, ancient banyan trees, river breezes, bamboo charm, pastoral songs, and rustic delights—full of pristine simplicity and elegance.
Sujiawei is the residence of descendants of Su Dongpo, the great literary figure of the Song Dynasty. This village is extremely legendary. Not only is it rich in Hakka cultural elements, but it also inherits Su Dongpo's sentiment: 'Better to eat without meat than to live without bamboo.' The village is filled with a strong cultural atmosphere.
In Sujiawei, the river water is clear and gentle, the houses are simple and old, water flows gurgling under the bridge, and waterwheels turn continuously. It can be said that the rustic picture presented here is exactly the idyllic life that city dwellers yearn for. With blue water and sky, a quiet village, neatly arranged rice paddies, ancient banyan trees with deep roots and lush leaves, and green bamboos swaying gracefully, the fresh and tranquil pastoral life is enviable.
As a representative of ancient Hakka villages, Sujiawei encapsulates Hakka culture, vividly presenting the simple and natural life of the Hakka people. It is an excellent destination for city dwellers to return to nature and countryside and savor Hakka culture. The vicissitudes of old houses, the joys and sorrows of rural folk, and the melodious Hakka folk songs—all the essence of Hakka culture is condensed here, worth savoring slowly.
Sujiawei has witnessed the 800-year footprint of the Su family. Landmarks here include the Yingqin Bridge, Zisu Garden, Yongsitang, and Dongshan School. The residential building complex in the village is rich in profound Hakka cultural connotation and historical heritage, of great cultural value. It is worth for visitors to stop and appreciate carefully, as the details are endlessly fascinating.
The village now has 18 remaining mansion-style Hakka enclosed dragon houses from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The oldest is Yongsitang, built in 1481, with a history of over 500 years. It is said to have been constructed according to the official rank of Su Dongshan, the eighth-generation ancestor of Sujiawei, and the architectural style of Ming dynasty official mansions. It is large enough to accommodate hundreds of people living together, a typical epitome of self-sufficient family life.
Ancient banyan trees can be seen everywhere in the village, and under them circulate many beautiful legends about local talented scholars and beauties. Among them, five large banyan trees are all over 1,000 years old, with the most famous being Wuxian Banyan and Yuanyang Banyan. Visitors from afar can sit leisurely under the banyan trees, learn to sing mountain songs with local Hakka girls, and personally experience the romantic sentiment of the Hakka people expressing love through songs.
After staying in the city for a long time, we always long to return to a peaceful and primitive village to experience a slow rural life away from the hustle and bustle. Food lovers will especially enjoy their visit to Sujiawei, where they can taste various Hakka flavors, including Hakka lei tea, Hakka niang wine, mountain water tofu pudding, mung bean syrup, and jelly.
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