A Grand Eight-Day In-Depth Tour of Qinghai

On my wall map, the provinces marked with five-pointed stars are few; only Qinghai has fewer. Although I visited in 1999, 2006, and 2018, each time was just a skim—never a deep dive. Searching online, I found an eight-day in-depth tour and invited my brother to join. We set off on August 6, taking the Z376 train from Shanghai to Xining. The train arrived a full three hours late, so we missed the planned Dongguan Mosque and Nanshan Viewing Platform. I only managed to visit a relative in Xining during some free time.

Day 1 – Day 2:

On the train; on August 7 we stayed at Xining Kaibin International Hotel.

Today's itinerary: Xining – Chaka – Delingha. Our driver, Mr. Li, chose the West Ring Road around the lake to avoid repeating the same route on the return trip, which added 150 kilometers compared to the other two vehicles. This allowed us to visit Qinghai Lake Atomic City (Xihai Town), the migration site of the Huang fish, and Bird Island. We had lunch at 4 pm, entered the Chaka Salt Lake scenic area at 4:30 pm, left at 8 pm, and arrived in Delingha at 10 pm. Stayed at Delingha Huayu Hotel.

Our vehicle: Ford Transit 9-seater. Driver: Mr. Li. Tourists: 6 people.

1. West Ring Road:

- Haibei Prefecture capital – Xihai Town

- Lakeside scenery and cycling teams

- Unique road design

2. Huang Fish Migration Viewing Point:

- Near Bird Island (Bird Island is closed to visitors)

4. Chaka Salt Lake Scenic Area:

- Sightseeing train ride

- Mirror of the Sky – truly deserving the name

- Old enterprise, new path

- Chaka Salt Lake: Qinghai's internet-famous spot

Today's itinerary: Delingha – Qarhan Salt Lake – Dongtai Jiner Lake – Water Yadan. Qarhan Lake, near Golmud, is China's largest salt lake, composed of multiple salt ponds with reserves of tens of billions of tons. It is also a salt chemical base and the birthplace of China's potash fertilizer. Then we turned back a hundred kilometers, drove along National Highway 315 to Dongtai Jiner Lake in the Qaidam Basin, and then 45 kilometers further to the Wusute Water Yadan scenic area. The schedule was tight. We stayed overnight at the Water Yadan scenic area's RV campsite.

1. Qarhan Salt Lake Scenic Area:

- Previously a chemical plant; recently opened to tourists.

- This is the true Ten-Thousand-Li Salt Bridge – the road is entirely made of salt pellets.

- Lake? Or sea? It's huge.

2. National Highway 315:

- The "U-shaped" highway, a new check-in spot.

3. Dongtai Jiner Lake:

- China's Maldives!?

- Favorite of beauties

- Drones – new toy for enthusiasts

4. Qaidam Basin

5. Water Yadan (Wusute Water Yadan):

- So much fun!

- Staying in an RV was a novel experience (sleeps 4, 600 yuan/night)

Today's itinerary: Water Yadan – Xitai Jiner Lake – Aiken Spring – Huamugou. Today's drive was longer. Huamugou Town is the administrative seat of Mangya City, close to Xinjiang, so epidemic prevention measures are strict. Aiken Spring is deep in the Gobi, with difficult roads. It is a wonder: from above, the spring's eye appears emerald green, contrasting with the surrounding rocks like an eye, hence called "Angel's Eye." Stayed at Huamugou Jinkun Hotel.

Morning at Water Yadan:

- The West Sea Fleet (unfortunately no drone to capture from above)

Xitai Jiner Lake:

- Also called Two-Color Lake (the water on each side of the road has different colors)

Ochre platform, a spring with abundant water.

- Golden colors, photographer's delight.

Today's itinerary: Huamugou – Mangya Emerald Lake – Golmud. Emerald Lake is not far from Huamugou, but the drive to Golmud is long—a full 7 hours. Mangya Emerald Lake is the most beautiful lake we saw on this trip: surrounded by mountains, crystal-clear water the color of jade, the entire scenic area like a fairyland. All visitors were amazed and left with deep memories. Stayed at Golmud Magnolia Hotel.

Emerald Lake, here we come!

- On the road to Golmud

Today's itinerary: Golmud – Yuzhu Peak – Hoh Xil – Sonam Dargye Protection Station – Golmud. The Beijing-Tibet Expressway ended just outside Golmud, so we took national roads. We crossed the Kunlun Mountain Pass at 4,760 meters, with continuous scenery. The Hoh Xil Reserve is vast and restricted; we drove along its edge, parallel to the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, passing Budongquan (Non-Freezing Spring) to reach the Sonam Dargye Protection Station.

Roadside scene: Kunlun Sacred Spring

- Winding mountain roads, rugged scenery.

- Distant view of Yuzhu Peak: glacial tongues visible; below is the Yuzhu Peak Station of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway.

- Kunlun Mountain Pass: elevation 4,760 meters

- Running parallel to the Qinghai-Tibet Railway

- Budongquan Service Station

- Vast Hoh Xil

- Spotted Tibetan antelopes several times

- Encountered a traffic accident, road blocked.

- Filled dirt to create an alternate path.

Today's itinerary: Golmud – Dongge Co Na Lake – Longyang Gorge. Starting from Golmud, we took the Beijing-Tibet Expressway to Delingha, then transferred to the Chengdu Expressway to Dongge Co Na Lake in Golog Prefecture. This lake is a lesser-known spot with few visitors. From here we headed east into the pastoral area, with scenery different from before: alpine meadows, gentle terrain, green grass, scattered cattle and sheep, beautiful under blue skies and white clouds. Stayed at Desheng Village in Longyang Gorge Scenic Area.

Along the Beijing-Tibet Expressway

- Simple service areas

- Dongge Co Na Lake: a sacred highland lake, bringing water and life to the Qaidam Basin.

- Hainan Prefecture scenery

- Longyang Gorge Reservoir: the first dam on the Yellow River's headwaters

Today's itinerary: Longyang Gorge Reservoir – South Mountain of Qinghai Lake – Xihai Town – Xining City. Today was the last day of the group tour. We passed through Gonghe, crossed the South Mountain, arrived at Erlang Sword Scenic Area on Qinghai Lake, then drove along the East Ring Road to Xihai Town, passed Huangyuan, and returned to Xining. Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate; a light rain came, shrouding the South Mountain in mist and rain, spoiling the view of Qinghai Lake. We chose a restaurant in Huangyuan for a farewell meal. "It's great to have you all; meeting is fate!" To the two sisters from Chengdu, and the two best friends from Handan. Stayed at Xining Haolong Hotel.

Desheng Village XXX Farmhouse Hotel

- Qinghai Lake shore ("115" Erlang Sword Scenic Area)

Day 10:

The "Eight-Day In-Depth Tour of Qinghai" by Xiyouji ended yesterday. The travel companions scattered like birds, returning to their hometowns. According to plan, my brother and I still needed to visit the Yellow River Stone Forest in Jingtai, Gansu, and the Shapotou Scenic Area in Zhongwei, Ningxia, then fly back to Shanghai. So we took the K2188 train to Lanzhou early in the morning, then transferred to K9882 to Baiyin, then took the Baiyin special bus to the Yellow River Stone Forest scenic area. Our plan to stay in Longwan Village that night was fulfilled. Stayed at Yongsheng Business Hotel.

On the way from Baiyin to the scenic area

- Snapped a picture from the special bus (private cars are not allowed on the 22 hairpin turns; they must park above)

- This year the Yellow River had high water; sheepskin rafts, speedboats, and ferries were all suspended.

- A village by the Yellow River, beneath the loess soil.

Day 11:

Last night we agreed with Mr. Zhang, the hotel owner, that he would drive us to Yinma Ditch viewing platform at 5:30 am to catch the sunrise. Then we would explore Yinma Grand Canyon on our own, and he would pick us up and take us to the 22 Hairpin Turns viewing platform for panoramic shots, then drop us at the scenic area bus stop. We departed on time, in the faint dawn light, entered the scenic area gate, took the go-kart road as far as possible. After sightseeing, we caught the 12:20 pm direct bus to Jingtai, which arrived safely and on time for only 10 yuan. We easily caught the K2889 train to Zhongwei at 3:26 pm, and two hours later we checked into Zhongwei Grand Hotel.

Yinma Ditch Viewing Platform:

- The 22 Hairpin Turns in the distance

- Yinma Grand Canyon: ancient road, west wind, lean horse

22 Hairpin Turns Viewing Platform:

- The scenic area entrance is in the center of the picture

- Turn! Turn! Turn!

- Above is the main gate (tourist center)

Day 12:

We had a full day in Zhongwei. At the bus stop we met taxi driver Master Wang. He offered 20 yuan per scenic spot, 80 yuan for four spots: Tengger Desert, Tonghe Grassland, Shapotou, and Jinsha Island. It was essentially a chartered car, and the price was very reasonable. We didn't return to town until evening, even accidentally crossing into Inner Mongolia.

1. Tengger Desert: