Forging Ahead in a Blizzard – Experiencing a Different Hokkaido

📍 Sapporo · 👁 8185 reads · ❤️ 31 likes

Japan is a popular travel destination for Chinese people, and Hokkaido is a hot spot, mostly with group tours lasting 5-7 days, visiting similar attractions. Some friends saw my moments on WeChat and asked me, 'How come it feels like you didn't go to Hokkaido?' Actually, from the planning stage, I leaned towards avoiding the regular routes, focusing on the eastern wilderness of Hokkaido, but I was still torn about whether to go to popular places like Hakodate and Noboribetsu. When buying plane tickets, I found that round-trip to Sapporo was 2,000 yuan more per person than entering from Kushiro, so I gave up Hakodate and Noboribetsu and headed straight for the eastern wilderness of Hokkaido. Looking back, most of the places that left a deep impression were small towns.

The entire trip lasted 13 days, with 11 nights. The first night was spent at Tokyo Airport (Narita Airport actually has plenty of places to eat and entertain for overnight travelers). We entered from Kushiro and exited from Sapporo. Considering we had two children, we chose not to go to the more primitive Shiretoko Peninsula. We stayed in Asahikawa and Sapporo for 3 nights each, Kushiro for 2 nights, and one night each in Kawayu Onsen, Abashiri, and Otaru. This distribution was mainly based on the fact that larger cities have relatively more attractions and are convenient for exploring the surrounding areas.

Hokkaido is the most beautiful snowy place I have ever visited (I have been to Northeast China, Tibet, Xinjiang, Canada, Finland, Nepal, etc.). Both the snow scenery and the quality of the snow are superior in Hokkaido. During the 12 days in Hokkaido, at least half the time it was snowing heavily. I enjoy hiking everywhere, and many times I was forging ahead in a blizzard. There were several times when visibility was less than 50 meters.

During the 12 days in Hokkaido, six places left a deep impression: first, the ethereal red-crowned cranes at Tsurui Village; second, the hot springs at Kawayu Onsen; third, the penguin parade at Asahiyama Zoo; fourth, the snow scenery of Biei; fifth, the night view of Otaru; and sixth, the light show at Shiroi Koibito Park in Sapporo.

The penguin parade at Asahiyama Zoo is a very famous activity in Hokkaido. The penguins line up and waddle forward in an orderly manner, their chubby bodies looking utterly adorable, making people laugh.

As for regrets, there are three: first, not seeing the drift ice from the Arctic Ocean in Abashiri; the planned icebreaker cruise among the ice floes turned into a cruise in the strait. Second, not seeing the Snow Festival in Asahikawa and Sapporo; the Snow Festival is usually held in early February, and when we passed through, it was still being built. Third, not going to Sounkyo to see the Ice Festival; this was mainly because it was relatively far, and after some hesitation, we did not go.

Overall, Hokkaido is still worth experiencing when it is snowing heavily. Perhaps visiting during the blooming flowers or the red autumn leaves would also be a good idea.

Japan is a developed country with very convenient transportation. Cities are connected by trains, and towns without train services can be reached by bus. However, taxis are mostly by reservation; aside from train stations and bus stations, it is hard to hail a taxi on the street. At first, I considered renting a car, but after reading other people's guides about Japan's strict requirements for driver's licenses and our lack of experience driving in snow, we decided to stick with public transportation. Some friends asked me whether to buy a JR Suica card. I think it depends on your itinerary. If you take the train to multiple places in one day, buying a Suica card is definitely more cost-effective. If, like us, you only change locations every few days, buying single tickets is more economical.

Accommodation in Japan includes hotels and guesthouses. Compared to big cities like Tokyo and Osaka, accommodation in Hokkaido is much better—relatively cheap and with decent room sizes, except for the nationwide chain hotel Dormy Inn. For stays of 1-2 nights, I chose hotels; for the 3-night stays in Sapporo and Asahikawa, I chose guesthouses, which allowed us to cook our own breakfast and dinner.

For most Chinese people, the food in Hokkaido should be fine. It is mainly rice and noodles as staple foods, but the variety is not huge, and there are not many spicy dishes. Hokkaido is Japan's breadbasket, producing high-quality rice, fruits, and various fresh seafood sashimi, as well as the coveted three major crabs. Hokkaido is truly a food paradise.

Speaking of budget, transportation, dining, and accommodation are definitely the top three expenses. For our group of six, the average cost per person was about 15,000 yuan (excluding shopping). Transportation accounted for 55% (airfare was nearly 70% of transportation costs), dining 19%, and accommodation 18%. Our accommodation and dining were at a moderate level. We chose cost-effective hotels, and our daily dining budget was around 350 yuan. If you have a more generous budget, you can book a hot spring hotel package with breakfast and dinner, where rooms offer beautiful views, and there are abundant buffets with sashimi and premium crabs. The cost is about 3,000 yuan per person per night.

Friends often ask me whether it is better to join a group tour or travel independently. There is no standard answer. If you like to learn about the local scenery and culture before traveling, and you enjoy moving freely, I suggest researching and booking your own independent trip, though it may be more tiring. If you prefer convenience, a group tour is fine, but the downside is that most attractions are only briefly visited.

Kushiro is a city in southern Hokkaido and one of Japan's leading ports. It ranks first in Japan for the catch of Pacific saury and squid. The sashimi we had in Kushiro was the freshest and most delicious we ate in Hokkaido. The city center of Kushiro is not large, and there are not many attractions. The main sights are Nusamai Bridge and Komachi Old Town. Kushiro mainly serves as a transit point for Kushiro Marshland and Akan National Park.

Komachi Old Town is the origin of Kushiro, more like a small fishing village. There are a few Chinese-style temples in the old town, with layouts and architecture reminiscent of old temples.

Kushiro Marshland and watching red-crowned cranes are the most attractive attractions in Kushiro in winter. There are several places to see red-crowned cranes in Kushiro, such as Tsurumi-dai, International Crane Center, and Red-crowned Crane Nature Park. After reading many travelogues and introductions, I finally chose Tsurui Village, because it not only has captive red-crowned cranes but also attracts many wild ones. Every day at 2 PM, locals feed them, and the cranes excitedly fly up and down. I estimated about 300 of them elegantly dancing in the snow. The cranes move lightly and gracefully, sometimes lightly flapping their wings to shake off snow, sometimes spreading their wings to fly, and sometimes performing a waltz with companions—full of ethereal charm.

The bus traveled through the Kushiro Marshland in heavy snow. When we arrived at Tsurui Village, the snow was already 30-40 centimeters deep, and everything was a vast expanse of white.

Eating seafood in Kushiro is undoubtedly a pleasure, especially sashimi, which is extremely fresh. Whether at the Fisherman's Wharf or an ordinary izakaya, the seafood sashimi is sweet and delicious. In Kushiro, I tried Pacific saury sashimi for the first time. Pacific saury is the long, thin fish usually pan-fried. It feels like only in Kushiro can you get it as sashimi.

Akan National Park has many attractions, but transportation between them is inconvenient. I originally wanted to stay by Lake Akan, but it was inconvenient to get to our next stop, Abashiri, and accommodation costs were also high. So I chose Kawayu Onsen instead. Kawayu Onsen is adjacent to Lake Kussharo, accessible by train directly. It is one of Japan's few famous hot springs, with its source being the active volcano Mount Io. It is known to be effective for skin diseases, gynecological issues, wounds, diabetes, and arteriosclerosis, and it is relatively cheap.

Kawayu Onsen Street has only about 20 hotels. The road often carries a strong smell of sulfur, which comes from hot spring water seeping out of the sewers. The hotel we stayed in had both indoor and outdoor hot springs (separated from the street by a wall). Soaking in the outdoor bath, with my body at around 40 degrees Celsius and my head at minus 6 degrees Celsius, was very refreshing. However, I felt my hair gradually stiffening—I wondered if icicles were forming? The ladies unanimously said their skin became much smoother after soaking. Before returning to China, the ladies had soaked in hot springs all along the way, but they still said Kawayu was the best.

Lake Kussharo is Japan's largest volcanic caldera lake. In winter, the center of the lake is covered with ice, but along some shores, due to the hot springs, a patch of water remains, attracting many swans and mandarin ducks to winter there.

To be honest, going to Abashiri was just for the experience of riding an icebreaker ship to break through drift ice. I bought the tickets early. As the saying goes, the greater the hope, the greater the disappointment. This time, there was no drift ice; we just cruised in the strait.

Abashiri was once a harsh, cold land. After the Meiji Restoration, to counter the Russian threat, a prison for hard labor was established to build the road from Asahikawa to Abashiri. The prisoners made great contributions and sacrifices to the development of Hokkaido. Abashiri Prison has been preserved as an important historical site. It is said that some prisoners escaped the guards' control but eventually could not survive the wilderness and returned to the prison to continue their sentences.

Although we didn't see drift ice, we stumbled upon 'sea angels.' Sea angels are transparent mollusks, relatives of sea cucumbers. They flapped their small transparent wings, swimming vigorously within a 30-centimeter radius, wiggling their plump, transparent bodies—utterly endearing.

Asahikawa is the second-largest city in Hokkaido and the main transportation hub in northern Hokkaido. Due to its terrain, Asahikawa is the coldest place in Hokkaido, with a recorded low of minus 41 degrees Celsius. During our three days in Asahikawa, we walked through blizzards for two consecutive days and felt the power of the storm. Compared to Sapporo, Asahikawa has a more leisurely and relaxed atmosphere.

Asahiyama Zoo is located in the suburbs of Asahikawa, covering 30 acres. It is the most popular zoo in Japan. Due to the penguin parade, the zoo attracts a large number of visitors, some even making a round trip from Sapporo specifically to see the parade. Besides penguins, the zoo has many local or cold-climate animals and many interactive activities. It is well worth spending half a day there.

Biei is a hilly area. In summer, sunflowers and wheat are planted; in winter, it becomes vast snowy fields. The iconic snow scene photo of Seven Stars cigarettes was taken in Biei. The snowy fields of Biei are vast, with a few trees or rows of trees in the middle, highlighting the charm of the snowscape.

The Snow Museum is a privately built museum displaying the structure and types of snow. Above ground are two European medieval castle-like buildings, but the essence is underground.

Asahikawa has an abundance of snow; snow scenes are everywhere. It's a pity we didn't go to Sounkyo to see the Ice Waterfall Festival. The sight of ice waterfalls and ice sculptures illuminated against the rugged mountains would have been even more spectacular.

Otaru is a romantic place, famous worldwide for the film 'Love Letter.' Otaru has an old canal, bustling commercial streets, the enchanting night view from Mount Tengu, and Asari, where lovers can vow eternal love.

Otaru was once Hokkaido's most important shipping port, and the canal was gradually built during land reclamation. The canal is about 100 years old. Although only a short section remains, the warehouses on the sea side of the canal, equally old, have been renovated, turning the canal into a popular attraction.

Otaru has many visitors and a thriving commercial scene. There are shops selling dried seafood, desserts and ice cream, as well as many food and handicraft stores. Personally, I liked the Music Box Museum the most. In a large hall with two floors, thousands of music boxes dazzle the eyes. Most importantly, the museum creates a cheerful, childlike atmosphere.

Asari is the third-last stop from Sapporo to Otaru. It is a small station by the sea, where you can stand on the shore, feel the sea breeze, and gaze at the mountains of Shakotan Peninsula. It is ideal for couples to express their feelings. Especially in winter, with the snow-covered shore on one side and the boundless sea on the other, it is even more beautiful if there are blue skies and white clouds.

Mount Tengu offers views and is also a ski resort. At 530 meters high, you can clearly see downtown Otaru and the bay, making it especially suitable for night views. To reach Mount Tengu, take a bus to the foot of the mountain, then take a cable car to the top. The top is windy and cold, but the open night view makes it all worth it.

Otaru has four fish markets, each with a different focus. There is the Sankaku Market, targeting tourists with the three major crabs; the Central Market for locals; and the Rin'yu Asaichi, which operates only in the morning.

Sapporo is Japan's fifth-largest city and the economic and political center of Hokkaido. It has well-developed transportation and a prosperous economy. Especially at night, Tanukikoji and Susukino entertainment districts are bustling, with crowds of people. However, I don't particularly like the noise of big cities. The reason I stayed three nights in Sapporo was mainly to leave time for the ladies to shop. But this time, the guesthouse in Sapporo exceeded my expectations, and the experience was very good.

This guesthouse was in the city center, with two bedrooms and a living room. It had 20-30 princess dresses, suits, and kimonos for guests to try on and take photos. Upon arrival, the hostess enthusiastically introduced the facilities, with makeup supplies fully available. Our group of six had fun playing dress-up, trying on different outfits and having a great time.

Shiroi Koibito Park consists of a park and a museum. The park and shops are free; the museum and production line require an entrance fee. The periphery of Shiroi Koibito Park is a ring of European-style castle buildings. In the center are cartoon displays, small houses, flower rooms, and other facilities for visitors to take photos and play. We signed up for a tasting tour, learning about the invention and production process of chocolate, and tasting chocolate at different stages. Pure chocolate is indeed a bit bitter. The most beautiful time is when the lights are on at night; the entire square is brilliantly lit, reflecting on the castle and making it look even more dreamy.

Hokkaido University is known as the most beautiful university in Japan, with a history of over 100 years. Its predecessor was Sapporo Agricultural College. We tried handmade ice cream at the university, which had a rich milk flavor. The campus is beautiful with many famous trees. There is also a museum on campus open to the public for free. College students often walk by briskly, leaving youthful imprints.

Sapporo Fushimi Inari Shrine is actually a small shrine (there is also one in Kyoto called Fushimi Inari Taisha, famous for its vermilion torii gates, but that is a large temple). On the slope leading to the shrine, there are many vermilion torii gates lined up, perfect for photos.

Sapporo Gokoku Shrine is located at the foot of Maruyama, surrounded by century-old trees. The shrine building is grand and quite different from Chinese-style temples.

On the way, we visited Sapporo Zoo. Compared to Asahiyama Zoo, Sapporo Zoo is not particularly distinctive, except for a few tropical and subtropical animal pavilions, which are somewhat special. Unfortunately, I come from a subtropical region. If you have been to Asahiyama, I would not recommend making a special trip here.

Nijo Market is large, but it feels more like a place for tourists to visit and shop, far less interesting than the fish markets in Kushiro and Otaru.

Toward the end of the trip, we kept hearing news about the novel coronavirus spreading in China. Friends reminded us to buy more masks. The line at the airport pharmacy for masks was already 50-60 meters long, and there was a purchase limit. On the flight back to Guangzhou, the seat occupancy was only 30-40%, and most passengers were already wearing masks. After arriving home, following government requirements, we went into self-isolation, falling into a routine of eat, sleep, and repeat.

During this time at home, I have been writing down my memories of the Hokkaido trip—partly to pass the time and partly to prepare for the next journey. The virus will eventually leave, and new journeys in life will always begin.

Travelogue Index: 1. Overall Impressions 2. Transportation, Accommodation, Food, Budget in Hokkaido 3. Kushiro 4. Kawayu Onsen 5. Abashiri 6. Asahikawa 7. Otaru 8. Sapporo 9. Afterword

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