Self-Drive in Italy and Southern France
Speeding across the lands of Italy and Southern France, the wheels let us ride the wind. By the Old Bridge in Florence, low clouds listen to the drizzle; at the Château d'If and Marseille port, the turquoise sea mirrors the blue sky; along the perilous mountain roads, we gaze at the white snow of the Alps; among the sailing shadows and fishing villages, we see the blue of the Côte d'Azur; and there are the early blooming lavender fields of Provence, the broken bridge, flowing water, and ancient church of Avignon...
----Prologue
Our European trip this time was divided into two parts. The first part was a ten-day self-drive: we picked up the car at Rome Airport, headed north through Florence, Venice, and then to Milan, crossed the Alps via Turin into the Provence region of France, admired the lavender, visited Avignon and Arles, then set off from Marseille, drove along the Côte d'Azur through Cassis, Cannes, Antibes, Nice, and Monte Carlo in Monaco, returned to Italy to visit Cinque Terre and Pisa briefly, and then passed through Florence back to Rome.
The second part: ten days in Rome, immersing ourselves in this city that embodies thousands of years of human civilization.
I. Overview of the Self-Drive Itinerary
Day 1: Chengdu (Qatar Airways) → Doha → Rome (pick up car) → Florence
Day 2: Florence: Old Bridge, Uffizi Gallery, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Academy of Fine Arts
Day 3: Venice
Day 4: Milan
Day 5: Turin, Valensole in Provence (Southern France), Aix-en-Provence
Day 6: Avignon, Saint-Rémy, Arles in Provence
Day 7: Marseille, Cassis on the Côte d'Azur
Day 8: Cassis, Cannes
Day 9: Nice, Monaco, Antibes
Day 10: Cinque Terre, Pisa in Italy
(This photo shows the Leaning Tower straightened)
Day 11: Florence → Rome (return car)
II. Prepare Well for the Self-Drive to Make the Trip Enjoyable
Although self-driving is already the first choice for most people when traveling domestically in China, driving abroad still presents considerable challenges. Besides common issues like driving skills, physical stamina, and endurance, you may also encounter unfamiliar traffic rules and signs, incomprehensible road instructions, different driving habits, and different parking and refueling payment methods. To make the limited travel time smoother and more enjoyable, you must prepare well beforehand, gather information, study carefully, and make a good self-driving guide.
Even though this was our third self-driving trip in Europe, preparation could not be taken lightly.
1. Route Selection: This is part of the overall plan: decide where to go, where to stay, how long to play, how many kilometers to drive each day, what the road conditions are, and how to park. Self-driving is continuous work and cannot be too tiring. Our arrangement was to be out for about ten hours each day, with time divided between driving and playing. There was no fixed route; how to go, where to play, and where to stay all depended on our own preferences. This is one of the charms and pleasures of self-driving (our self-driving routes were carefully chosen and successfully executed; feel free to keep them as a reference).
Self-driving route map
Self-driving map of Marseille and Avignon
2. Booking Accommodation: (This important task was handled by my daughter; skip. For needs, please refer to other guides.)
3. Booking a Vehicle: Say the important things first: it is recommended to choose an automatic transmission vehicle. Check several companies to find a suitable model that meets your needs and pick-up/drop-off location. It is also advisable to buy full coverage insurance with no deductible for peace of mind. Non-full coverage may be cheaper but has a deductible of over 2000 euros.
4. Prepare Self-Driving Equipment:
Power bank: Needed throughout the entire trip.
Car power adapter: Choose one with two USB ports.
Mobile Wi-Fi: Essential for the entire overseas trip, used to support mobile navigation while driving, verify the correct route, and directly navigate with the phone when the GPS unit has issues.
GPS navigation device: Essential for driving abroad. There are many brands available for purchase or rental. They are expensive but very useful, with accurate maps and directions, and well worth the money. The GPS has preloaded maps and cannot provide the latest road conditions or real-time traffic, so phone navigation is needed then. Abroad, we used coordinate navigation: find the coordinates of the destination on a map, verify them by entering them into the map, and then save the destination coordinates in the GPS for later use. The coordinates are long numbers, so entering them carefully is important; this time, due to a possible input error, we ended up several kilometers away from the correct destination twice.
Milan Cathedral parking lot location map
5. Familiarize with Local Traffic Rules: Here are several key points different from China: (1) No right turn on red; (2) When entering a roundabout, first check the signs; if it says STOP, stop for 3 seconds; (3) When entering a roundabout, vehicles already on the left have priority; (4) Do not occupy the passing lane for a long time; (5) Do not overtake on the right; (6) Yield to pedestrians; (7) Avoid honking the horn; (8) Drive with headlights on even during the day; (9) In Italy, pay attention to ZTL (Limited Traffic Zones); many city centers in Italy have them, with designated times or paid entry; violations result in fines, and rules vary by city, so study the guide carefully; (10) Outdoor parking spaces are color-coded as free, paid, or reserved; note the differences between France and Italy; disabled parking spots must not be used; (11) Rear seat passengers must also wear seat belts.
Some traffic signs:
6. Organize Materials: After completing the above work, you can compile the self-driving schedule, including daily itinerary, driving kilometers, accommodation names and coordinates, important scenic spot coordinates and introductions, etc. Important route maps can also be saved as screenshots. The schedule needs to be viewed frequently and can be printed and carried; other files can be uploaded to email for review at any time.
III. A Thousand-Mile Journey Begins with the First Step
1. Doha Airport
Qatar Airways flights usually require a transfer in Doha, so the tickets are very attractive. Boarding passes for both segments were issued at Shuangliu Airport, and luggage was checked through to Rome. The service on Qatar Airways was quite good, though still a bit inferior to Air France.
2. Doha Airport Transit Guide
Transfers are a concern for everyone. I looked at some guides beforehand but couldn't get the gist. After actually traveling round trip, I found it quite convenient. Doha Airport has a large terminal divided into four waiting areas: A, B, C, and D, with very clear signs. After getting off the plane, take the shuttle bus to the terminal. Most passengers are transferring. There are signs and staff at the point where transfer and arrival routes separate; if unsure, show the paper bag with the boarding pass (yellow indicates transfer), and staff will direct you. Transit passengers do not go through customs or immigration but do go through security once. The security hall has flight screens where you can find the boarding gate for the next flight. In the center of the terminal hall is a very busy duty-free shopping area. To reach waiting areas C and D, you need to walk through a long corridor for about ten minutes, with rest areas and duty-free shops along the way. From landing to the gate normally takes about 30 minutes.
Waiting at gate D in Doha Airport
3. Fly to Rome Fiumicino Airport
4. Pick Up Car at Airport and Head to Florence: Rome Airport is large and well-managed. Push your luggage cart and follow the underground signs with rental car company logos to the centralized rental counters. The girl at the rental counter surprisingly spoke fluent Chinese; she had studied at Nankai University in China, so communication was smooth. In Italy, I wanted to drive a local car, so I booked a Fiat, but that model was not available. The only similar models were a Ford Focus and a Volvo. I chose the Volvo. In China, this car might be much more expensive than the Focus, but in Europe, the price is similar, and the rental price was the same. Driving this car was unfamiliar at first: on the highway, the steering wheel had little resistance and felt light, and the stability control seemed not very effective, but after gradually getting used to it, it drove fine.
Scenery near the airport
Driving through the Apennines, curve after curve, with small flatlands below. The scenery felt so familiar that it felt like driving in China. No photos were taken on this stretch due to fatigue from the flight.
The distance from Rome to Florence is 310 km. We left the airport at 3 pm and arrived in Florence in 3.5 hours.
IV. Low Clouds and Drizzle by the Old Bridge in Florence
1. The Birthplace of the Renaissance, a City That Changed Human History
Florence is a famous cultural city with a long history. It is both the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and the cradle of European culture. Two thousand years ago, Roman Emperor Julius Caesar built roads and a city here, and Florence was born. After the fall of the Empire, centuries passed. As a city-state, Florence came under the control of the Medici family. It became a place of reflection on medieval religious constraints and a sanctuary for the pursuit of ancient Greek and Roman humanity and art. In a hundred years, numerous geniuses of unparalleled brilliance shone here, illuminating Europe and the world with the light of humanities and art. History remembers these great names: Leonardo da Vinci, Dante, Galileo, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Raphael, Giotto, Titian, Boccaccio, Machiavelli.
Following the landlord's advice, we did not drive directly but took the tram into the old town. Florence had just woken up, and there were few people on the streets. In a few minutes, we arrived at the 700-year-old Old Bridge.
In the afternoon, we returned to the Old Bridge when the clouds had parted, the sun was out, and crowds of tourists had gathered.
3. Uffizi Gallery
Netizens all say, "If you haven't been to the Uffizi Gallery, you haven't been to Florence." Although not that serious, it is certainly a great regret not to visit the Uffizi in Florence. We booked tickets online for 8:30 am; without booking, you might have to queue for hours and might not even get a ticket.
The Uffizi Gallery, located on the Arno River in Florence, is the world's best museum of Renaissance paintings. It houses masterpieces by great masters such as Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, and others.
Masterpieces of art in the Uffizi Gallery
Works in Giotto's room
Giotto was the first painter to depict decorative religious paintings with natural brushwork and dramatic figures, becoming the founding father of Renaissance art in Italy. Da Vinci praised him as "the most outstanding painter among the many who have surpassed past centuries."
Rooms 7 and 8: Early Renaissance works
Works in Leonardo da Vinci's room
Da Vinci was the greatest painter, sculptor, architect, and inventor of the Renaissance, also proficient in anatomy, botany, civil engineering, and physics—a rare genius ahead of his time.
"The Baptism of Christ" was jointly painted by Da Vinci and his teacher. Everyone who sees it says the little angel on the left is the best, which was painted by Da Vinci. The teacher then stopped painting forever.
"Annunciation"
The tall building behind Mary and the exquisitely carved lectern in front create a solemn and sacred atmosphere, while the kneeling posture of the angel and the deep red skirt highlight that the coming of Jesus to save the world is an immensely important and sacred event.
Detail of the Virgin Mary
Sketch of "Adoration of the Magi"
This painting depicts the three wise men visiting the newborn Jesus and his mother Mary.
Botticelli: One of the most famous artists of the Renaissance
"Primavera" (Spring): Botticelli's masterpiece, the first Renaissance work to depict pagan mythology. It shows the ancient Greek and Roman goddesses.
"The Birth of Venus": Botticelli's famous work, depicting Venus emerging from the Aegean Sea. On the turbulent sea, Venus rises from an open shell, using her long golden hair as clothing. The wind god blows her to the quiet shore, while the spring goddess Flora greets her on the shore with a robe woven of stars. Behind her is the boundless blue sea and sky. Venus stands weakly and melancholically on the shell symbolizing her birth.
"Adoration of the Magi": The rightmost figure is Botticelli's self-portrait.
Other works in Botticelli's room
Michelangelo: A great sculptor, painter, and architect of the Renaissance. His sculptures are unmatched peaks, and his great paintings are the Sistine Chapel ceiling "Genesis" and the altar painting "The Last Judgment."
"The Holy Family" is the only painting by Michelangelo here. It depicts the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, and the infant Jesus, full of the warmth of the Holy Family. The figures, like his sculptures, have strong, healthy, and powerful muscles.
Other works in Michelangelo's room
Raphael: A great artist of the Renaissance, along with Da Vinci and Michelangelo, known as the three great masters of Renaissance art. In Raphael's paintings, spirit and flesh, emotion and reason are perfectly blended. The Uffizi Gallery houses many of Raphael's exquisite works.
"Madonna of the Goldfinch": Raphael's masterpiece
"Pope Leo X with Cardinals"
"The Holy Family with the Little Angel"
"Self-Portrait of Raphael"
"Adoration of the Magi"
Titian: The painter best representing the Renaissance style, especially skilled at depicting female beauty. He painted many Venuses and Venus-like Virgin Marys, as well as many magnificent portraits. His delicate depiction of light and color was unprecedented.
"Venus of Urbino": A very famous work by Titian
"Flora"
Caravaggio: A genius painter of the Baroque period after the Renaissance
Caravaggio's famous work: "Bacchus"
"The Resurrection of Christ"
Many other famous works
Sculptures in the Uffizi Gallery
3. Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria
For centuries, the Palazzo Vecchio, built by the Medici family, has been Florence's town hall. The Uffizi Gallery is right next to the square. Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazzo Vecchio has many sculptures. Because the surrounding buildings are all famous and exquisite, it is considered Italy's most beautiful square.
View of Palazzo Vecchio from the third-floor terrace of the Uffizi
Exiting the Uffizi Gallery toward the square, a light rain began to fall. The buildings on both sides house the gallery's exhibition halls.
On the square stands a replica of Michelangelo's famous sculpture "David"; the original is at the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence.
4. Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
This is a great building built during the Renaissance. Since Florence means "city of flowers" in Italian, the cathedral named after flowers has become a symbol of the city. Construction began in 1295 and took 175 years to complete. The cathedral reaches a total height of 107 meters, dominating the city's skyline. Its dome, with a diameter of 45 meters, is another masterpiece of dome architecture after the ancient Roman Pantheon, a symbol of the Renaissance spirit of exploration.
From the Uffizi's third-floor terrace, you can see the dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in the rain
Sculptures on the cathedral's exterior wall. The adjacent building is the campanile, and the small domed building behind is the baptistery.
The exquisite ceiling painting inside the cathedral dome
The altar and sculptures inside the cathedral
Soldiers on duty in the rain; they are present near every important attraction in Italy.
5. Lunch near the Cathedral, Enjoying Italian Cuisine
In Europe, only Italian food seems closest to our taste.
Italian dumplings (ravioli) with tomato sauce and minced meat
Truffle pasta: black truffles and white cheese
Sauced grilled meat and sautéed eggplant cubes
Toasted bread slices, also made meticulously and elaborately
Forgot what this dessert is
The front desk clerk carefully shaved raw ham
Took a casual photo—all raw, large portions; we didn't dare to eat it.
6. Galleria dell'Accademia in Florence: Michelangelo's classic works "David" and "The Dying Slave"
From the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore to the Galleria dell'Accademia is only a few minutes' walk. Founded in 1393, the Florentine Academy of Fine Arts was a product of the Renaissance and also had a great influence on the European Renaissance. Because of its indelible contributions to the world of art and art education, it is known as the "world's highest art school." Its students are even more impressive: Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Titian, and many other great masters.
Tickets also needed to be booked online in advance. There were still a few dozen minutes before our entry time, but the queue had already started.
Corner of the Academy Gallery
The Galleria dell'Accademia houses Michelangelo's immortal masterpiece "David."
David is a young hero in the Bible who killed the giant Goliath, who had invaded the Jews, and defended his country and people. David later became the greatest king of Israel—King David.
Michelangelo did not follow previous depictions of David after victory with the enemy's head underfoot; instead, he chose David in a state of readiness for battle. He stands confidently, holding a sling in his left hand, his right hand hanging down, his head turned to the left, his eyes gazing into the distance, as if searching for enemies on the horizon, ready to engage in a new battle. David's physique is majestic and strong, his expression brave and resolute. His body, face, and muscles are tense and full, embodying the ideal male beauty both external and internal.
"The Dying Slave"
"The Dying Slave" is a great work from Michelangelo's peak artistic period. There are six such sculptures; two fully completed ones are now in the Louvre in Paris, considered treasures of the museum. The other four, left unfinished, are housed here; perhaps in Michelangelo's mind, they were the final works.
These sculptures reflect on life and death, flesh and spirit, and the fundamental contradictions of life. They express the deepest unease of life, manifested as the anxiety of fear of death. The bodies twist in extreme unease, yet find tranquility in the twist; thus, the twisted bodies turn to relaxation and peace.
Two "Slave" sculptures in the Louvre in Paris (photographed last October at the Louvre)
Another sculpture by Michelangelo, "Pietà," seems completely different in style from the one in St. Peter's Basilica.
This is the "Pietà" sculpture in St. Peter's Basilica.
Other sculptures in the gallery
The gallery also houses many paintings by Renaissance masters and famous artists.
A few more street views of Florence
V. Sunny Venice
We left Florence in light rain in the morning. The distance to Venice is 250 km. The first 100 km were still through the Apennines, and after passing Bologna, we entered the northern Italian plain. In the mountains, a section of road had just been rerouted from a winding mountain road to a tunnel; the GPS map probably did not include this, so it kept directing us to go back to the old road. We had to turn off the GPS, use the phone to confirm the correct direction, and then turn the GPS back on after driving more than ten kilometers.
Italian highways also have self-service tolls: you take a ticket from the machine when entering, insert the ticket when exiting, and then insert a credit card to complete the payment automatically. Visa and MasterCard from Chinese banks, both chip and magnetic stripe cards, can be used.
First refueling: fuel prices in Italy are very high, with many taxes included. It is said that taxes levied in 1936 when Mussolini sent troops to Ethiopia and in 1966 after the Florence flood are still included in fuel prices. Our car used diesel, priced at 1.14 euros per liter, while unleaded gasoline was 1.56 euros per liter. As elsewhere in Europe, you pump the fuel yourself and then pay at the supermarket counter.
The diesel car was quite fuel-efficient: we drove over 400 km and consumed only 22 liters.
In early June this year, Europe was hit by heavy rainstorms everywhere. After passing Padua, the weather suddenly changed, and heavy rain arrived. After exiting the highway, about ten kilometers from Venice, the rain was torrential, making it difficult to drive even at 50 km/h. It seemed our visit to Venice would definitely be a wet one. But when we passed through the rain curtain and reached the causeway, the view ahead in Venice showed clear, fine weather. What luck!
Venice's main transportation is by boat. After driving onto the island via the causeway, there are parking lots near Piazzale Roma for parking, then you take water buses to explore.
Due to its many canals, Venice has no vehicle traffic. Instead, unique water buses and traditional gondolas serve as transportation.
Venice is a true water city, covering only 7 square kilometers, consisting of over 100 islands in 160 canals connected by 400 bridges. The most important is the Grand Canal. Due to its strategic location, it was historically a center of commerce and trade, coming into contact with various civilizations, becoming a melting pot of different cultures, resulting in its current diversity and artistic style.
The Grand Canal is Venice's main waterway and is connected to many smaller canals. Most transportation within the city goes through these waterways. We took a water bus along the Grand Canal, slowly moving between ancient buildings on both sides, enjoying the soul of Venice.
Legend says Venice was founded in 453 AD when local farmers and fishermen fled from barbarian raids and took refuge on this small island in the Adriatic Sea. They made use of the fertile alluvial soil, using local materials to build Venice on the water in the mud.
Around the 14th century, Venice had developed into Italy's busiest port city, the most famous water city in the Mediterranean for commerce, trade, and tourism. The 14th and 15th centuries were Venice's golden age, making it Italy's most powerful and wealthy maritime "republic" and one of the Mediterranean's trade centers.
From the 16th century, after Columbus discovered the Americas, Venice gradually declined. In 1797, Venice fell under Napoleon's rule, and the thousand-year-old Venetian Republic ended. Only in 1866 did Venice and the rest of Italy unite.
Passengers were already waiting to board as the water bus docked at the stop.
We got off at the stop after St. Mark's Square, walked across the Bridge of Sighs, then continued to St. Mark's Square.
The Bridge of Sighs connects the Doge's Palace and the prison. Prisoners would sigh as they crossed it, lamenting their lives, hence the name. It is one of Venice's most famous bridges. Today, thanks to the movie "A Little Romance," it has shed its ominous reputation and is also called "Sunset Bridge" after the film's romantic scene at sunset.
St. Mark's Square is unique among European city squares. Located in the city center and on the canal, it is a landmark of Venice, favored by tourists, photographers, and pigeons.
Tall stone columns in front of the square bear the winged lion symbol of Venice; another column has a Venetian standing on a crocodile, both recounting the past glory of this wealthy Mediterranean island nation.
St. Mark's Basilica is built in a Byzantine style, also incorporating Roman and Renaissance elements. Its facade features five round-arched Romanesque doors, topped with Eastern and Gothic spires, marble statues, reliefs, and floral patterns. The large dome and splendid mosaics are its most prominent features.
Lunch in Venice: squid ink pasta and seafood risotto
The large and small canals in the city are like streets and alleys.
Busy small gondolas coming and going
A small church in the city
On the way back: the captain of a Venetian boat
The accommodation we booked was in Padua, about 40 km from Venice. It was on the way from Florence and to Milan. It was still raining not far from Venice. When we followed the GPS to the accommodation, something was wrong; using Google Maps on the phone, we realized it was several kilometers off. It must have been a wrong number entered in the coordinates, so we used the phone to navigate to the place.
VI. Milan Cathedral: Half a Day Rain, Half a Day Sunshine
The distance from Padua to Milan is 280 km, all on the northern Italian plain.
Motorcycles on the road.
Taking a break at a service area.
It was not raining when we left, but when we arrived in Milan, it was pouring again. Unlike yesterday's luck, we drove into Milan's old town in heavy rain and went directly to a parking lot near the cathedral.
Milan ZTL Entry Guide
Milan's old town has the strictest ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone). Many self-drivers have been fined there, to the point of being terrified. The Chinese-speaking girl at the rental company also reminded us to be especially careful in Milan. But parking outside and taking public transport would be time-consuming.
The red line marks Milan's ZTL.
Before the trip, I browsed many guides and checked Milan's government announcement about ZTL (available in Chinese—great!), and basically understood it: For out-of-town license plates, entering the ZTL is limited to certain times; weekends are free, while weekdays require a fee. The fee can be paid online, at designated banks, post offices, or paid parking lots (all self-service, but I'm not sure how). If not paid within 48 hours, a fine of 50–150 euros applies. We arrived in Milan on the weekend, but there is also a rule that diesel cars with Euro 4 or lower emissions still have to pay. We weren't sure which version our car was, so to be safe, we decided to pay. My daughter spent a long time trying several bank cards and finally succeeded in paying 5 euros.
Parking in Milan: We searched online for the nearest parking lots to Milan Cathedral, located their coordinates on Google Maps, entered them into the GPS as backups. For other places, we also pre-searched and saved coordinates in the GPS.
Milan: The cathedral in the rain. We queued for almost an hour in the rain to get in.
Security checks were very thorough.
It was still raining when we entered the cathedral, but when we came out, the sky was clear with white clouds.
Milan Cathedral is the largest medieval cathedral in Europe, built entirely of white marble. Construction began in 1386 and took 100 years to complete. The cathedral can hold 40,000 people for religious services, making it the second largest in the world, after St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City.
Its distinctive feature is its Gothic exterior, with 135 spires rising like a dense forest of needles toward the sky, and on each spire is a statue.
There are over 2,000 statues on the exterior alone, and over 6,000 statues inside and out, making it the church with the most statues in the world and the largest Gothic building in the world.
