4,500 km, 53 Days: Cycling Pilgrimage from Dongguan, Guangdong to Lhasa, Tibet (Guilin–Kunming)

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We didn't set off from Guilin until after 10 a.m. The city center was swarming with electric scooters, like locusts. Once out of the city, we sped on.

Arrived at Luzhai County after 6 p.m. We'd planned to push on to Liuzhou that night, but a heavy rain forced us to find a parking space on the ground floor of a residential complex and pitch our tent.

In the morning, passing through Liudong District, there was a small hill with a greenway. Since it was only 40 km to Liuzhou today, we rode in to have a look.

From the hilltop, you could overlook Color Planet Amusement Park. Locals said the ticket was 280 yuan, but it had been built for two years and hardly anyone visited—equivalent to Guangzhou's Chimelong.

After dinner, we strolled along the Liujiang River, feeling the breeze. So pleasant.

As a major industrial city in China, Liuzhou's night view along Liujiang is reputedly third in the country—would you agree?

We followed the riverside boardwalk to Liuzhou Confucian Temple.

Due to time, we turned back at Pangu Temple, not making it to Yaobu Ancient Town. If you have time, do check it out—none of these sights charge admission.

Yesterday, I met a local cycling buddy on the road; he rode from Liudong all the way to the city center and offered to be my guide today. I'd planned to stay a day, but the heat was unbearable, so after sending him a message on WeChat, I set off.

Today I used a route guide from the Xingzhe app; it showed a cyclable path, but in reality it was abandoned. So, never take a shortcut just to save a few kilometers—there's too much uncertainty.

This area of Guangxi grows pineapples, so they're cheap—3 yuan each.

These next few days, I'll be battling 30°C heat and climbing hills. Tough.

Learning from yesterday, whenever the navigation wanted to take a small mountain road, I asked locals if it was passable. Today, I stuck to secondary highways; aside from a road under repair near Gupeng, conditions were fine. Woke up early, so covered a good distance. Here, vast mulberry fields stretched out. It was my first time seeing silkworms raised in grids.

Near Lingma, I came across a female cyclist heading to Yunnan. A glance told me her bike, clothes, and panniers were all spotless. She'd dismount and push at the slightest slope, her face pale, wearing headphones and livestreaming. She was probably using the cycling act to make money. Not my kind of traveler, so I said hi and moved on.

I searched a long time in Lingma Town for a campsite. People here seemed fearful or indifferent, giving excuses like 'leaders won't like it.' Finally, at a roadside car wash, a kind young guy cleared a spot for my tent and even let me shower.

No big climbs today, and the roads were good. Plus, starting early, it wasn't so hot, traffic was light—much more comfortable riding.

In Baise, I found a dessert shop and ordered a mung bean smoothie to cool down. 5 yuan a cup—slightly pricey, but it was packed, being the only one around.

Today, braving the 30-plus-degree heat, I managed to set a new record for the longest daily distance yet.

After days of tent sleeping, I got used to it. Last night in a hotel, I couldn't fall asleep. Ah, what a misery.

After Tianlin Town, I happened upon a village celebrating a tradition similar to our 'Nianli' festival—the whole village gathering, with antiphonal mountain songs.

In Jiuzhou Town, local plums were in season, only 2 yuan a jin. They were sour and appetizing. After searching, I finally settled down past eight at a gravel factory.

After four consecutive days of 100+ km riding in intense heat, my body was reaching its limit. I woke up with a slight fever, so when I reached Longlin at 3 p.m., I got a hotel to rest.

Ups and downs all day, not a single photo taken. Climbed two Category 3 slopes and one Category 2. Because of the heat, it was just pushing forward, pushing forward. I felt I'd missed a lot.

Today, transitioning from the Shiwandashan Mountains to the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, I set off with the early morning glow.

Onto the plateau, the relentless climbing made me question my life choices.

In the morning, admiring the bougainvillea along the way, I headed for Luoping. Unintentionally, I wandered into a sea of flowers—Guizhouchun Scenic Area. No entry fee, fragrance everywhere. I ended up staying an hour without noticing.

Following a veteran driver's advice, I took the Xingyi route instead of Guangnan. From Baise through Guizhou to Yunnan, the roads were freshly paved—excellent conditions. The heat gradually faded, and I could finally enjoy the scenery and take photos.

Crossing into Yunnan, I started seeing the two patches of 'plateau blush' on locals' faces—officially in plateau country.

Since Jiulong Waterfall wasn't bike-friendly, I skipped it and headed to the Luoping rapeseed flower scenic area. Even though I knew the blooms were past season, from the viewing platform I still grasped their magnificent scale.

Ever since I was awestruck passing by train, I'd dreamed of Luoping's rapeseed flowers. Even though they've all been cut now, it was still a golden expanse.

Luoping is a popular tourist spot, so accommodation abounds. The off-peak and peak seasons are distinct, and off-season prices are cheap.

Today I overestimated my stamina and underestimated the plateau wind. It humbled me—I had to pedal even downhill, and flats felt like climbing. The dryness, like the northwest, left my skin cracked.

A dozen kilometers before Shilin, I couldn't go on. I found a motel in a prefab house—just one room, one bed, 21 yuan a night. In the evening I vomited; probably caught a chill. On the plateau, if you're not careful, you get sick easily. From now on, long sleeves are a must.

Today I only rode 11 km to Shilin to recuperate. Still weak from the chill.

Thinking it was still early, I asked the boss about a route to sneak in, just to scout. Unexpectedly, I got in so easily.

I went in quite late, so I didn't finish the tour, and there were too many forks, easy to get lost.

Day 21, I gave myself a day off. Slept all day at the hostel, had tea and chats with fellow travelers, took cold medicine, and recovered quickly.

This morning, Brother Huang and I watched the sunrise at Shilin, then set off for Kunming.

Sunrise at Shilin lacks a good vantage point; you can't capture its full grandeur.

After the sunrise, we hit the road.

The roads here get very slippery after rain, maybe due to shoddy construction. I saw two e-bikes slip and fall while turning right in front of me.

The luckiest moment today was meeting Brother Lin near Qidian Village. He let me stay at the hotel his company had booked, and even treated me to steam-pot chicken, Yiliang crispy duck, and 'Dragon Claw' pastries.

Talking with Brother Lin opened up a new perspective, but in the end I didn't ask for his contact info. Maybe we belong to different worlds; we'll just have to meet again by chance in this vast world.

Next section: Kunming to Dali, more excitement ahead.

Travelogue Contents

1. DAY 10 (Apr 17) Guilin – Luzhai

2. DAY 11 (Apr 18) Luzhai – Liuzhou

3. DAY 12 (Apr 19) Liuzhou – Hongdu

4. DAY 13 (Apr 20) Hongdu – Lingma

5. DAY 14 (Apr 21) Lingma – Baise

6. DAY 15 (Apr 22) Baise – Jiuzhou

7. DAY 16 (Apr 23) Jiuzhou – Longlin

8. DAY 17 (Apr 24) Longlin – Xingyi

9. DAY 18 (Apr 25) Xingyi – Luoping

10. DAY 19 (Apr 26) Luoping – Shilin