Addictive Luosifen: A Stroll Through Liuzhou (Part 1)
A two-night, three-day trip to Chaoshan was so irresistible that I had planned to fly back to Nanjing after Shantou, but I didn't feel like going back at all. As usual, I opened the flight booking app and started aimlessly scrolling for the next destination... Then, the word "Liuzhou" popped into my sight. I remembered last visiting Liuzhou thirty years ago. Why not revisit the old haunt?
On the afternoon of May 14th, flight MU2638 took off on time at 15:40 from Chaoshan Airport, carrying my longing for Liuzhou and heading toward the place I left three decades ago.
After an hour and forty-five minutes in the air, we landed on schedule at Liuzhou's Bailian Airport at 17:25. The airport is close to the city center, with buses going straight downtown. But feeling a bit tired from the afternoon flight, I opted for a taxi to the hotel near Wuxing Commercial Pedestrian Street. As luck would have it, rush hour was in full swing, and the traffic was honestly frustrating. It was already 18:45 by the time I finally pulled up at the hotel.
Earlier, while waiting at the airport, I'd booked a room at City Express Hotel, Wuxing Pedestrian Street (Zhonghuan Building) through Ctrip — only 123 yuan per night. The website showed incredible value for money, and the reviews were decent. The hotel lobby didn't let me down; three lovely Liuzhou ladies handled my check-in and even treated me to a chilled bowl of eight-treasure congee. Such a warm, welcoming touch.
My room was on the 19th floor, and I was pleasantly surprised when I opened the door. Compact but just right, decorated in a clean, minimalist style. Downstairs there's the pedestrian street and food street. What a steal at this price! After a hot shower and change of clothes, I was ready to dive into the energy of Wuxing Commercial Pedestrian Street and the temptations of the food street.
Eighty meters to the right of the hotel entrance, I slipped into the back section of the food street, where crowds bustled and the buzz was electric. All sorts of delicacies were on display, aromas hitting the nose; the clamor of people, the sizzle of barbecue, all kinds of hawkers shouting — every sound entering my ears. Stylish young couples strolled, snacks in hand, mouths chewing, others queuing up. The place was alive.
As I walked, my eyes feasted on familiar and unfamiliar eats, each more tempting than the last. The mingling scents were impossible to resist, and my mouth watered, eager to try everything.
I'd long heard about Liuzhou's famous luosifen (snail rice noodles), but after walking the whole food street, I only spotted two luosifen shops — simply but nicely decorated, very chain-store style. Hardly any customers inside. My gut told me their luosifen wouldn't be great. In my experience, the most authentic, tasty luosifen is always found in hole-in-the-wall joints tucked down back alleys. "Good food is found among the people," as the saying goes. Only those no-frills noodle shops are likely to have the real deal.
Still, while the perfect luosifen eluded me, I stumbled upon another personal favorite: garlic grilled oysters, at a place called Haoyouhui right in the heart of the food street. Every seat inside and outside was taken; the staff moved nimbly, and diners were lost in pleasure. My legs simply wouldn't carry me on. Just then, some customers left after paying. I nabbed the table before the waiter could even clear it, terrified someone else would snatch it. I ordered a plate of "garlic medium oysters" — ten for 35 yuan. Before long, a big tray of them sat before me. The scent of garlic mingled with the fresh, briny oysters was irresistible, and I dug in eagerly. Savouring every bite: the garlicky aroma, the tender oysters, unbelievably fresh, simply cooked in their own juices. No need for any dipping sauce. In no time, all ten had found their "final resting place." Pure satisfaction, pure indulgence. Sheer bliss.
To let that glorious garlic grilled oyster flavour and memory linger in my mouth and mind, I suddenly decided: tonight, I'd try no other food. I wanted to hold onto that wonderful sensation as long as possible... (End of Part 1)
