The Charming City of Liuzhou: Not Just Urban Scenery, but Also Miao and Dong Ethnic Flavors
When it comes to tourism in Guangxi, most people think of popular places like Guilin and Yangshuo. Actually, Guangxi has many lesser-known, laid-back cities worth exploring. This time I came to the hometown of螺蛳粉 (snail noodles)—Liuzhou.
During my few days of travel, I found this city especially livable and relaxing. Coming here puts no pressure on your mind, and you can feel the city's unique charm. It has both the vibe of urban life and the rich culture of ethnic minorities, giving a sense of "stealing a moment of leisure in this busy life." If you have a chance, you should come to Liuzhou and see for yourself.
With Liuzhou's gradual development, the city has become more and more prosperous. High-rise buildings have sprung up like bamboo shoots after rain. Among them, the Diwang International Fortune Building stands out, with a "Cloud Top" observation project built on its top floor.
What does it feel like to touch the clouds in the heart of Liuzhou City? The elevated helipad at the city's peak offers a stunning view of Liuzhou's skyline. In the distance, bridges span over the Liujiang River, and below are high-rise buildings with busy traffic on the roads.
On the 77th floor, there is a helipad accessible by escalator from the 76th floor. The helipad offers an unobstructed view of the city. If you don't want to try the glass walkway, you can still go up to the helipad and take a look. There are also telescopes; on a clear day, you can see the stunning cityscape of Liuzhou.
There are many places in China called Mashan. One of them is in Liuzhou. This time I came to Liuzhou's Mashan Park. Before going up, I thought the mountain was ordinary, but after climbing, I found it incredibly beautiful and well worth a visit.
Mashan is one of the eight ancient scenic spots of Liuzhou, named for its saddle-like shape. In the morning mist, it resembles a galloping horse, earning the name "Heavenly Horse Soaring." From the foot of the mountain, follow the stone path to the summit, and you can take in the entire view of Liuzhou.
Mashan is not very high, just over 200 meters. An average person can reach the top in about half an hour. The path is well-maintained, with some shaded areas that are quite cool. The climb is comfortable, and you can also admire the karst landforms inside the caves along the way.
Looking out, you can see various bridges spanning the Liujiang River, each with its own characteristics. There is also a glass observation platform that extends out into the air. Standing there, you can see the U-shape of the Liujiang River, giving it a feel of "Little Chongqing." The tall buildings across the river are bustling, and the cityscape is clear both day and night.
Besides climbing Mashan, there is another place to appreciate Liuzhou's prosperity—the Yaobu Ancient Town along the Liujiang River. It's a gathering place for literary youth, with many trendy shops, quiet bars, coffee shops, and a popular bookstore. Taking a stroll there after dinner, walking along the riverbank, is very pleasant and relaxing.
Liuzhou was once an industrial city. Through a century of industrial development, Liuzhou has formed a unique industrial and urban spirit. Under the renovation of old factories, the Liuzhou Industrial Museum records the glorious years of that era.
As soon as you enter the museum, you are drawn to the huge blue machine parts. These massive machines document Liuzhou's industrial development. Some are two stories high, making people look tiny underneath.
Automobiles are the best representatives of Liuzhou's industrial production. Wuling cars can be seen everywhere in Liuzhou. When you see the classic Wuling minivan, memories flood back. On the exhibition platform, sculptures of workers recreate the lively production scenes, along with the 1 millionth car produced in Liuzhou—a signed version of "Wuling Hongtu."
The museum also displays a well-off home from the 1980s in Liuzhou, with vintage decorations, an old piano, and a bed. From the living room to the guest room, it shows the living environment of that time, representing a relatively affluent family.
Outside the museum, there is a unique spot—the Train Book Bar. It uses a retro train carriage converted into a 24-hour reading space, free for visitors. You can take nice photos standing in front of the locomotive.
Shuanglonggou Primitive Forest has five wonders: trees, vines, waterfalls, bridges, and streams. Walking through, you can feel the abundance of negative ions. A 2- to 3-hour hike allows you to fully immerse yourself in nature. Covering over 5,000 acres of primitive forest, it's a sea of green that is very pleasing to the eye.
Shortly after entering the scenic area, you encounter the Wind and Rain Bridge. The Wind and Rain Bridge is the soul of the Miao people. All such bridges are built without a single nail, making them a local architectural symbol.
The scenery here is breathtaking, with a fairy-like mist. The leaves along the river have turned red, giving a strong autumn vibe. It's very photogenic.
Along the trail uphill, the scenic area has created a dreamy fairy-tale forest world, complete with a forest theater where the story of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs is performed. There are many photo spots—bird nests, angel wings, small boats, etc. Stopping to take pictures while surrounded by the forest is very pleasant.
Halfway up the mountain, there is a waterfall cascading down. Standing in the middle of the pool, you can capture spectacular waterfall photos and feel the cool spray on your skin.
At Shuanglonggou, there are many fun activities to experience, combining nature with challenges. It's very interesting to integrate with nature.
For thrilling high-altitude experiences, the Seven Ladders span across the forest, forming a "Sky City." Walking on them feels like stepping into the clouds. They vary in difficulty, and with safety ropes, it's very secure. Stepping on the suspension bridge and swinging in the clouds is particularly exciting.
If you want the fastest way down from the summit, the zip line is both thrilling and fun. It's 528 meters long, and as you slide down, you can see the forest and river below, experiencing the ultimate feeling of flying through nature.
The glass bridge at Shuanglonggou is special—it's 199.9 meters long and 52 meters high, also known as the "Confession Bridge." It's said that if couples walk this glass bridge together, they will have a long-lasting relationship.
How beautiful is Sanjiang in Liuzhou? There is a large village formed by eight hamlets connected together—Chengyang Eight Villages, an excellent place to experience Dong ethnic culture, rich in ethnic customs, known as the "Home of World's Lou Bridges." The drum towers and wind-rain bridges here are all built without nails. You can experience drum towers, wind-rain bridges, Dong customs, and the four-season pastoral scenery here.
Where there are Dong people, there are wind-rain bridges. Chengyang Bridge is the largest and most beautiful bridge in the eight villages, a must-pass to enter the villages. It is beautiful and practical. On it, you can feel the ancient solid wood. Dong people cross it daily as part of their lives.
The entire bridge is built without a single nail or rivet, using wooden strips joined with mortise and tenon, showcasing superb woodworking skills.
In Chengyang Eight Villages, each village has its own large drum tower, an important venue for local activities. Many major festivals are celebrated under the drum tower with great fanfare. The top of the Dong drum tower features a string of gourd-shaped spires piercing the sky, like a pagoda's spire.
Entering the drum tower, looking up at its structure is awe-inspiring. Without any nails, using only a few master beams and precise construction techniques, it is solidly built. Local Dong women can be seen weaving clothes inside.
The natural scenery in the villages is dominated by farmland. It is autumn, and the rice paddies have turned golden yellow, creating a beautiful scene. Walking along the paths beside the rice fields gives a feeling of returning to garden life. The Dong buildings in the distance, set against the golden rice fields, make for a particularly lovely view.
Walking through the Dong village, you can meet lovely Dong people. Say hello to Dong women, watch Dong children running freely, and stroll along the stone paths. The morning hours are especially peaceful, like an isolated paradise, allowing your heart to quiet down.
To fully experience the Dong folk customs, staying in the village is a great choice. This time I stayed at a recommended local specialty guesthouse—Nanyi Guesthouse.
Nanyi Guesthouse is located within the village. After crossing by the river, you reach the front desk, facing a golden rice field. In autumn, it is absolutely beautiful.
The guesthouse is converted from four Dong-style houses that have stood for a hundred years, renovated by a South African architect nicknamed "Crazy Eagle." Based on preserving traditional architecture, new elements were added, allowing visitors to experience Dong culture well. All materials were collected from old houses, without cutting down trees; old wood was reused.
The rooms are all wooden structures, giving a rustic feel. Climbing the wooden stairs into the room, you find a Dong-style atmosphere, with warm yellow lighting creating a cozy ambiance. The facilities are complete.
I particularly like the hollow pendant lamps—they are very beautiful. When the small lights are turned on at night, they create a special charm. The blue curtains are slightly modern, blending perfectly with the wooden structure. The family room also has one large bed and one small bed, suitable for families with children.
The guesthouse provides a delicious breakfast. A Dong aunt prepared congee, fried rice noodles, eggs, and local specialty oil tea for us early in the morning. The oil tea is crispy and fragrant, sweet or salty, very tasty.
When you come to Liuzhou, you'll find many shops selling authentic snail noodles. Small wooden tables are set up at inconspicuous storefronts, surrounded by food lovers craving snail noodles.
Tasting authentic snail noodles is a must in Liuzhou. The aroma wafts through the streets. The smell of snails makes your tongue dance. The chewy rice noodles and rich spicy oil will captivate you from the first bite.
This time I came to Mengming Miao Village. Apart from the local customs, the Miao flavors left a lasting impression. I chose a restaurant with a homely feel—Grandma's House—and enjoyed a special Miao meal.
Walking into Grandma's House feels like returning to the countryside, with a rustic atmosphere. Eating here feels grounded. Entering a small room, it reminds me of my childhood at my grandmother's house, with dried corn hanging, strings of dried chilies, and patterned tablecloths, full of nostalgia.
Miao-style Bamboo Tray Rice: This is a must-order local specialty. The bamboo tray is piled high with colorful food that makes your mouth water. In the center is black and white sticky rice, surrounded by many tasty toppings. Take a lettuce leaf, add a few slices of cured meat, scrambled eggs, pickled vegetables, beans, and sticky rice, wrap it up and eat it—full of flavor and very delicious.
Miao-style Sour Soup Fish: Miao sour soup is famously delicious, sour and spicy, very appetizing. Especially on cold days, a sip of sour soup is amazing—it can steal your soul. Add tender fish fillets that slip smoothly into your mouth, soft and delicious.
Steamed Pork with Rice Flour: This dish goes very well with rice. It's fragrant, with the powdery and sticky coating wrapping the pork, giving a solid and satisfying bite.
Lotus Root and Fish: Another local Miao specialty is lotus fish, raised in rice paddies. Although it has many bones, the meat is tender and delicious. Braised in soy sauce, everyone loves it. The fish grows with the rice, giving a pure, natural taste.
Travelogue directory:
1. Preface
2. Liuzhou City Center, Touching the Clouds
3. Guangxi's "Little Chongqing": Overlooking Liuzhou from Mashan
4. Liuzhou Industry: The Speed of Takeoff
5. Autumn at Shuanglonggou: Time Stopped
6. Sanjiang Dong and Chengyang Eight Villages: A Paradise
7. Eating in Liuzhou
8. Epilogue
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