12-Day Family Road Trip: Liuzhou, Beihai, and a Hainan Island Tour with a Toddler
"Ah~~ I really want to eat snail noodles~~"
"Where to eat? The ones near home aren't good."
"Then... go to Liuzhou to eat?"
"What about our daughter?"
A few simple words unexpectedly started a 3000-kilometer road trip.
We packed in 40 minutes. Initially, we only planned to play for two days, so we didn't bring much—packing was quick. We departed from Guangzhou at 4:35 PM and drove for 7 hours before finally reaching the hotel. The navigation showed it would take about 5 and a half hours, but we encountered a huge rainstorm and heavy fog along the way, plus we had to feed the baby, so we were delayed by 2 hours (PS: The highway at night was really foggy—drive carefully, carefully, carefully!).
I have to say, the weather in Liuzhou after arriving was fantastic, and the air was truly fresh.
The baby was surprisingly well-behaved in the car—sleeping quietly without fuss. Maybe she was also looking forward to this trip.
As soon as we parked at the hotel, the baby woke up full of energy and quickly got familiar with the new environment. Let me review this hotel: great value for money—hundred-yuan price with three-hundred-yuan quality. Clean and hygienic, free parking, good location. Very satisfied.
Right below the hotel is Fengzhang Snail Noodles. We hadn't eaten dinner yet, and our stomachs were growling. We went in without a second thought! One bowl of 2-liang noodles with pig trotter and fried egg, another bowl of 2-liang noodles with duck feet and fried egg. Both the soup's richness and the noodles' texture were different from what we've had in Guangzhou or bought online. Especially the pickled water spinach—it was absolutely delicious! The toppings and spiciness were added according to preference. 2 liang of noodles was plenty.
The great thing about this hotel is its proximity to all the popular spots. Taxi fares were basically under 15 yuan (why not drive? Because finding a parking spot might take longer than the taxi ride).
Qingyun People's Market: a lively place with all kinds of street food. We just strolled around, soaking in the atmosphere of Liuzhou's local market.
For lunch, we had horse meat noodles at Wuxing Commercial Pedestrian Street. Incredibly delicious! The boss saw we had a baby and gave an extra small portion of noodles for the baby, mixed with some non-spicy horse meat sauce. Our daughter loved it! We'll definitely visit again next time we come to Liuzhou.
Liuzhou in September is still very hot—scorching sun. There weren't many people on the pedestrian street. We were about to melt after a short walk, so we spotted a dessert shop and went inside to escape the heat. Sure enough, the shop was packed with people also seeking refuge. We ordered two cups of fruit slushies. They were made purely with fresh fruit, nothing else added—not even water. Sweet but not cloying, icy cold—so refreshing!
In Guangxi, how could we miss the mountains and waters? "Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven," but I think the whole of Guangxi has beautiful scenery!
We went back to the hotel for a nap, rested a bit, then headed out again to our third stop of the day—Longtan Park. Parking was really hard to find (too many cars). I suggest taking a taxi directly. The park is free. At this point, pictures say it all!
Photos can't capture its beauty (my photography skills). A natural oxygen bar. The moment I stepped into the park, I felt reborn—all the stress from working in the big city, the worries of life, the physical and mental fatigue—all vanished like smoke. The majestic mountains and rivers are like a giant magnet, absorbing all negative energy. One word: refreshing!
For dinner, we went to the popular spot—Victory BBQ City. This place is huge with tons of people. There are countless varieties of BBQ, snail noodles, snail duck feet pot, beef offal, fried ice, etc. I think you can just order what you like; generally, you won't go wrong. I ordered duck feet pot, fried snail noodles, cold mixed beef offal, tofu pudding, and milk tea.
The duck feet pot was average—not outstanding.
The fried snail noodles were super flavorful—tastier than the soup version, I think!
The cold mixed beef offal was made to order—they blanch it right when you order. The offal was perfectly tender and fresh. With the accompanying vegetables, it was light and not greasy. Totally different from the big pot stewed offal we have in Guangzhou. First time trying this Guangxi-style offal—really enjoyable! Loved it from the first bite! Haha, but we were so busy—one eating, one pushing the stroller—that we forgot to take a panorama shot. Next time we'll make up for it.
After waking up, I made breakfast for the baby. Then we went downstairs to Fengzhang Snail Noodles for one more round before heading to the sea.
This "heading to the sea" was a spontaneous decision. While packing after feeding the baby, I thought: since we already drove 6-7 hours to Guangxi, why not visit a few more places? We discussed briefly and decided on a last-minute next stop: Beihai.
We immediately booked a B&B in Beihai. Little did we know this would be our first lesson on traveling without a guide!
PS: We brought a small electric hot pot to easily cook baby food—noodles and eggs done in minutes. No worries about the baby's meals on the road.
Then came another 4-hour drive. But the expressway in Guangxi is so beautiful that the drive wasn't boring. One of us drove, the other played with the baby—didn't capture the scenery on the highway.
Since it was our first time, we booked a B&B in Beihai. This was the first pitfall of the trip. If driving, I strongly advise against B&Bs in Beihai because the alleys are too narrow! Traffic jams often last over half an hour. The B&B wasn't close to the sea—about a 15-minute walk. For self-driving, it's better to book a holiday hotel—easier parking and less traffic. The price is only about 100 yuan more than the B&B, and it's closer to the sea.
The B&B we booked was in tatami style—mainly to prevent the baby from falling off the bed while sleeping. Also, the middle area gave her space to move around.
The walk to the sea took about 15 minutes. Actually, we could see the sea from the exit, but the entrance to the scenic area required a bit more walking.
Maybe we came at the wrong time—it had been drizzling on the drive. We waited until the rain stopped to go to the beach. According to guides, good weather and bad weather show two different sides of Beihai, so my expectations weren't high. I thought it was okay, but even in the off-season, there were so many people!
In the evening, we went to another popular spot—Qiaogang Style Street. On the way, the driver told us that there are hardly any locals on this street anymore; most of the shop owners are from Northeast China.
Entering Qiaogang Style Street was also super crowded. With the baby, I barely dared to take out my phone. There were plenty of snacks and seafood—prices depend on your budget. The baby fell asleep while walking, so we only had mei cai kou rou bing (pork belly with preserved vegetable pancakes) and a big hot pot of rice noodles. Both were tasty (later in Hainan we realized how popular mei cai kou rou bing is—you usually have to queue a long time to buy one).
The night at the B&B wasn't very comfortable (poor soundproofing—neighbors flushing the toilet woke us up). So we were up early. After a McDonald's breakfast, we hurried off.
Another spontaneous decision: we weren't fully satisfied with the sea in Beihai—maybe due to the weather, maybe the accommodation. We felt we wanted more, so we discussed and unanimously decided to go on a Hainan Island tour!
Originally, we planned to take it easy and stay one night in Zhanjiang Xuwen, then take the ferry to Haikou the next morning. But we arrived at Hai'an New Port quite early, and there were still many tickets available. We discussed again and decided to take the ferry that very day.
The ferry at Hai'an New Port was very convenient—just input info on the official account to buy tickets. Boarding was quick (maybe because it's off-season). To make the baby more comfortable, we upgraded to VIP on the ship—it came with two cups of coffee at 50 yuan each!
The ferry ride took about 2 hours. If you count loading/unloading the car, it might be around 3 hours.
After disembarking, we headed straight to our booked apartment. I was really satisfied with this apartment—unlimited sea view, duplex two bedrooms and two bathrooms, gated community with free parking. Price was just over 200 yuan per night—quite a steal in Hainan!
Another reason we chose this apartment: it had a washing machine. We needed to wash clothes because we hadn't planned to stay so long and only brought a few outfits. We'd almost used up all our clean clothes.
In the evening, we went to Youyi Sunshine City to see what a Haikou mall is like and have dinner. We had Lingshui sour noodles and Hainan noodles—the kind found in food courts in malls. The taste was average, but the price was not—over 20 yuan for a bowl of noodles. The presentation wasn't great, so no photos—skip it.
Since we had driven long distances the previous two days, we just hung around near the apartment today. The seaside here is really beautiful!
For dinner, we had Tongkeng beef recommended by locals—tender and juicy. Whether hot pot or BBQ, it was delicious. I recommend trying both ways!
Today, we had dinner with friends in Wenchang, so we went to Wenchang to look around.
In Hainan, you have to see the coconut groves. We visited the popular Dongjiao Coconut Grove (though later we realized coconut trees are everywhere). The most surprising part wasn't the grove but the large beach beyond it—and in the off-season, there were very few people! PS: Lots of coral stones on the beach there.
For parking at Dongjiao Coconut Grove, it's best to park on the roadside at the entrance—just buy a coconut and you can park freely. If you drive into the scenic area, you have to pay. Also, when we visited, the public toilets in the scenic area were closed, and you had to pay to use toilets outside—1 yuan per person. The toilets were basic; if that bothers you, you'll have to hold it.
In the afternoon, we went to the ancient house village in Wenchang where our friend lives. If not for friends, few tourists would visit rural areas in Hainan.
We saw many rural scenes rarely seen in Guangzhou—plump Wenchang chickens. Both the baby and us got excited!
On the east coast of Hainan, many people choose Wanning. But after comparing prices and friends' reviews, we decided to visit Lingshui Clearwater Bay.
Wanning is better for young people who want to surf. Lingshui Bay is more suitable for family trips.
A self-driving trip must include the most beautiful highway—it's in Wanning! We passed it on the way to Lingshui.
We visited the most beautiful highways in Shimei Bay and Shenzhou Peninsula. There are parking spots along the road. Getting out to walk and feel the sea breeze was so comfortable!
In Lingshui, we stayed at the Aloha Seaview Resort. It's a large hotel with its own coastline, swimming pool, small zoo, kids' playground, cinema, etc.
But maybe because it's off-season, there were very few guests—quite quiet.
We booked a sea-view suite. Coincidentally, it was the baby's first birthday, and the hotel gave us sand toys. The room was spacious with a nice view.
Then it was time for the beach—the sea here is also stunningly clear (jelly-like water). The sand was as fine as flour—soft and silky. With no crowds in off-season, the experience was excellent. PS: It really looked beautiful to the naked eye—blue sky, blue water—but my phone couldn't capture it.
Dinner was at the hotel restaurant. Average—safe dishes that wouldn't go wrong.
An important part of Hainan travel is enjoying the hotel itself, so today we stayed at the hotel to relax. Woke up naturally, strolled on the beach, swam in the hotel pool, fed the little animals—awesome!
The commercial area for dining is not far—about 5 minutes by car. We had coconut chicken and fermented grain vinegar hot pot. The coconut chicken was very sweet and refreshing—hard to resist. The fermented grain vinegar was sour and spicy with a hint of wine lees—a fresh experience.
Many restaurants in Hainan offer a free baby meal—with carrots, corn kernels, eggs, and noodles. Traveling with a baby? No worries about baby food—it's really thoughtful.
After waking up, we headed to the highly recommended island—Fenjiezhou Island. It's close to the hotel—about 40 minutes by car.
Round-trip ferry tickets: 118 yuan per person. We saw the jelly-like sea, rode a banana boat, fed manta rays—again, an off-season perk—no queues for any activities.
The activities are right near the dock. Personally, I don't think the electric cart is necessary—it only goes halfway around the island and goes uphill. Only if you stay overnight on the island might you need it.
Showers on the island cost money. Beach chairs require consumption to sit.
After returning from Fenjiezhou Island, we went to another popular spot—Lingshui Sour Noodle King. The price is reasonable. Online reviews vary—some say authentic, some not—but I thought the taste was good. I recommend the sandworm sour noodles—the sandworms were really delicious!
After the noodles, we headed to tonight's hotel—Sheraton Sanya Yalong Bay Resort. For Sanya, I recommend hotels with their own coastline—easier access to the beach. The coastline is mostly occupied by old five-star hotels; you can pick any and likely not go wrong.
I must praise the Sheraton—they knew we had a baby and thoughtfully installed a bed rail. Only parents know how important a bed rail is—it gives you real peace of mind at night!
In the morning, we had breakfast at the hotel. The breakfast was good with many choices. Eating by the pool, listening to the water—great ambiance.
After swimming at the beach, we headed to Sanya city center in the afternoon to see the classic attraction—Tianya Haijiao (End of the Earth).
Tianya Haijiao is now free to enter. The parking lot is large. Once inside, you can buy a ticket for the electric cart to go directly to the final scenic area if you don't want to walk.
What kind of art makes the rocks, coconut trees, sea, and beach harmonize so perfectly? A truly delightful place!
Timing was perfect—after visiting, it was sunset time. For sunset, of course, we went to Coconut Dream Corridor. The interplay of sunset glow and coconut trees was so enchanting!
After breakfast, we prepared for the last stop of our island tour—Ocean Flower Island. This is a man-made island project by Evergrande in Hainan. At first, I was hesitant because reviews said you couldn't drive on the island. But I called the hotel and they said you can drive on now, so we decided to go.
We booked the Oberoi Hotel this time. First impression: this hotel is huge—thousands of rooms. Self-check-in was very convenient.
We booked a room package with tickets to the Ocean Paradise. Tomorrow before leaving the island, we could visit the park.
The island is divided into different zones, but they are all near the ring road. Now that you can drive, transportation on the island is very convenient.
Breakfast at Oberoi was also good—the freshly cooked noodles were especially delicious—you must try them! The variety was a bit less compared to the Sheraton, but overall quality was good.
After checkout, we went to the fun Ocean Paradise.
The aquarium is not huge—small but refined. Quite a few animal species.
Since it's off-season, some shows were not open. Also, we had to catch the ferry back, so we didn't watch any shows.
On the return trip, we chose the route to Xuwen Port. The ferry on this route is larger and faster. Again, buying two cups of 50-yuan coffee gave us access to the VIP lounge.
After disembarking, we encountered traffic jams on the way home—it took a full 7 hours to get back!
Finally, here's the cost breakdown for your reference~
Travel Diary Table of Contents
1. Day 1 | Last-Minute Decision, Unexpected Road Trip | Guangzhou - Liuzhou
2. Day 2 | Qingyun People's Market - Wuxing Commercial Pedestrian Street - Longtan Park - Victory BBQ City
3. Day 3 | Heading to the Sea | Liuzhou - Beihai
4. Day 4 | Further South | Beihai - Haikou
5. Day 5 | Apartment Babymoon, Beach Walk | Haikou
6. Day 6 | Beginning the Island Tour | Haikou - Wenchang - Haikou
7. Day 7 | To the East Coast of Hainan | Haikou - Lingshui
8. Day 8 | Watching the Sea from the Hotel | Lingshui Clearwater Bay
9. Day 9 | The Most Beautiful Island on the East Coast | Lingshui - Fenjiezhou Island - Sanya
10. Day 10 | A Stroll in Sanya City | Yalong Bay - Tianya Haijiao - Coconut Dream Corridor
11. Day 11 | Last Stop of the Island Tour | Sanya - Ocean Flower Island
12. Day 12 | Final Playground | Ocean Flower Island - Guangzhou
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