Another Autumn Arrives: For Fall Colors in Beijing, Head to Pofengling Scenic Area in Fangshan

The year is divided into four seasons: spring brims with vitality, summer blooms with a hundred flowers, autumn paints the mountains in a tapestry of colors, and winter dresses in elegant white. Each season has its own charm, and choosing the right time lets you witness the most breathtaking scenery. A few years ago, autumn still felt to me like a time of desolation and melancholy, until I saw the slopes of Pofengling ablaze with colors—a masterpiece painted by nature.

Pofengling is a shining gem within the Youlanshan Scenic Area. In spring, peach blossoms bloom; in summer, the smoke tree flowers burst forth; in autumn, the leaves turn red; and in winter, it’s a world of powdery white. The best time for autumn leaf viewing is from mid-October to early November. This year, I took the subway plus a taxi, and the transfer stations were a series of pleasant surprises: Line 1 (Military Museum Station) – Line 9 (Guogongzhuang Station) – Fangshan Line (Yancun East Station) – Yanfang Line (Fangshan Chengguan Station). Surprised by all those transfers? Actually, most are terminal stations, so seats are easy to come by and the trains aren’t crowded. Best of all, you just walk a few steps across the platform to transfer, completely unlike other stations where you have to hike long distances. After exiting the station, a taxi ride for about 40 yuan gets you to Pofengling. With such easy transfers, what’s there to worry about?

That day, I stayed at Huanglu Huakai guesthouse, about 2 kilometers from the foot of the mountain. Right next door is the famous Laolaojia Xiaoyuan’er (Grandma’s Little Courtyard). Every time I pull into the parking lot, the lady who’s heard I’m coming rushes out to greet me and warmly escorts me to the familiar Courtyard No. 5—just because I like her (the one on the left), so I choose this courtyard every time. Courtyard No. 5 has three bedrooms, a living room, and a kitchen; including the daybed, it can easily accommodate seven people. The rooms are fully stocked with toiletries, so there’s no need to bring anything extra.

Check-in at Huanglu Huakai guesthouse is at 2 p.m., and the special afternoon tea is already prepared. I highly recommend the corn—sweet and delicious—paired with a cup of cooling mint tea. Basking lazily in the afternoon sun, time seems to stand still, as if you’ve captured the greatest happiness in life.

Taking a short rest here before heading up the mountain is the ideal timing. The strong midday sun has faded, and most visitors are now descending. In the sea of red leaves, you can easily find a perfect spot to take endless photos.

By now, the smoke trees have completely shed their summer appearance. Each leaf has become a little sprite in the mountain, bursting with color as if showered with adoration, displaying the most beautiful autumn hues amid the riot of colors. Vast expanses of red and yellow are so fiery, so bold, so unapologetically vivid, while the hidden greens in the dense forest remain so natural and serene.

The elevation gain on Pofengling is modest, and the trail is gentle and easy to climb. But for an exercise-avoider like me, the endless path ahead is the biggest psychological hurdle. The stone steps are marked with distance signs at intervals: the starting point is 0 meters, the top of Yunshang Shiwu (Cloud Cottages) is at 600 meters, the Huanglu Wang (King Smoke Tree) is at 1,700 meters, and Yingzui Yan (Eagle’s Beak Rock) is even higher. Though I’ve been to Pofengling several times, I’ve never completed the entire route; the highest I’ve reached is 2,500 meters. Due to the varying elevation, the redness of the leaves differs greatly—the higher you go, the more red you see. The path is easy, but you still need proper footwear. It seems because it’s so easy, many people even come up in high heels.

I recommend a hidden gem on Pofengling: near the top of Yunshang Shiwu, there’s a small suspension bridge. It’s not big, but the aerial photography angle is superb. However, it’s often crowded; to avoid people, either go up very early or wait until around 4 p.m.

For dining in the scenic area, there are food stalls near the entrance and at the foot of the mountain, plus a market. You can find snacks like boiled corn, pancakes, stinky tofu, and quick-fried tripe, as well as mountain products like fresh dates and dried persimmons to buy.

Food recommendation: Hongse Beilou Canting (Red Basket Restaurant)

Recommended dishes: buckwheat noodles (héluó miàn), wild vegetable buns, freshly ground soy milk, oil chicken, etc.—delicious and affordable.

Price: around 40 yuan per person.

As the weather turns cold, darkness falls much earlier. On this slightly chilly late-autumn evening, we settled onto small stools. Today we’re having the earthenware pot stew—tofu on top, and underneath, a layer of dried beans and vegetables. After finishing, you can add more ingredients to cook. It’s ridiculously delicious. The auntie transforms them into simple yet scrumptious dishes, a welcome break from the usual heavy, greasy meals. Her hand-pulled noodles are also excellent, but on a cool autumn night, a pot like this truly warms you to the core.

Red Leaf Festival Dates: October 1, 2018 – November 15, 2018

Address: Pofengling Scenic Area, Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing

Red Leaf Festival Tickets: Adults: 50 yuan/person; Seniors (65 and above) and students (with student ID) and active military personnel (with military ID): half price, 25 yuan/person; Children under 1.2 meters: free (with guardian).

Navigation: Set your GPS to “Pofengling Scenic Area” for a quick and easy trip. Starting from Liuliqiao, the distance from downtown Beijing to Pofengling is 55 kilometers.

From Liuliqiao, take bus 917, then transfer to Fang32 bus to Huangshandian Village Stop, which is right at Pofengling Scenic Area.

First and last bus times:

Simagou – Zhoukoudian Bus Terminal: 05:30–19:30;

Zhoukoudian Bus Terminal – Simagou: 05:30–19:30.

Subway + Taxi:

Line 9 (Guogongzhuang Station) – Fangshan Line (Yancun East Station) – Yanfang Line (Fangshan Chengguan Station). Transfers are very convenient: just walk a few steps across the platform. Then take a taxi for about 40 yuan.