Beijing Travel: East of the Forbidden City, Seeking Intangible Cultural Heritage

Step into Baigongfang in Dongcheng District to explore making 'Tu'er Ye' figurines. Visit Yongyuan, China's first intangible cultural heritage-themed creative park. Enjoy afternoon tea at Dongyuan Theater beneath the Imperial City walls. Cycle from Donghuamen to Wangfujing in the evening. Discover the charm east of the Forbidden City and find the most authentic taste of Beijing.

After living in Beijing for so many years, during traditional holidays like Spring Festival or when traveling in Beijing, I often see a small figurine resembling a rabbit. Asking a Beijing friend, I learned that this rabbit-like but more serious-looking trinket is called 'Tu'er Ye' – a Rabbit God. Beijing has a deep-rooted 'Ye' (Lord) culture. Calling a rabbit 'Ye' is a term of respect. According to ancient tales of Chang'e and the Jade Rabbit, the Jade Rabbit once descended to earth to dispel disasters and cure diseases, protecting humankind. Thus, the rabbit was deified. To make the artistic rabbit appear more majestic and mighty, people dressed it in armor and battle robes, with two colorful flags behind it, highlighting the Rabbit God's image as both a scholar and a warrior.

Besides Beijing homes, Tu'er Ye can be seen in many tourist spots. The traditional stern, unsmiling image has evolved into many modern styles. Now you can see many smiling, adorable Tu'er Ye, giving a warmer, friendlier feel. Beyond the traditional rabbit form, there are also designs based on the twelve Chinese zodiac animals, all handcrafted from clay. These designs are more accepted by modern people and loved by visitors worldwide. To preserve this intangible cultural heritage, many shops in Beijing are dedicated to making Tu'er Ye.

At Baigongfang, there is a workshop where you can try making Tu'er Ye yourself. The clay used comes from kaolin clay, said to be hundreds of millions of years old. After impurities settle, the middle layer is taken. The clay is then washed, dried, and mixed with rice water and cotton fibers to make it sturdier and more durable. Molds are prepared in advance for the Tu'er Ye shape. The clay is pressed into the molds. The process of pressing and shaping requires patience and repetition. The final trimming step demands special care. After completion, the mold is turned over, and a rough Tu'er Ye emerges. It is then air-dried before proceeding to the next step: painting. Painting requires some drawing skills, proficiency, meticulousness, as well as imagination and color coordination. Layer by layer, colors are applied to create a unique piece. The result is a warm, exquisite work of art.

Near Guangqumen in Dongcheng District, there's a lane called Yongsheng Alley. Inside the hutong, a creative park named 'Yongyuan' stands. It is China's first intangible cultural heritage-themed creative park. In the 1980s and 90s, this was the famous Beijing Sanlu Factory, where Dabao SOD Cream was produced. Now, Dabao's factory has moved to Yizhuang, and the old factory has been transformed, taking advantage of local features. Named after the nearby pond and Yongsheng Alley, 'Yongyuan' has become a new Instagram-worthy spot, offering cultural creativity, intangible heritage, homestays, and food. Let's follow the writer's steps to explore this groundbreaking park.

Master artisans of intangible cultural heritage have settled in Yongyuan, following the principle of restoring the old as it was. The century-old buildings, with their grey brick corridors, now house 16 studios for ICH masters. Spaces like Chinese Textile Intangible Heritage, Design Space, Lacquer+ Space, Jinggong Imperial Crafts, and Enamel Art Museum have all successfully moved in. To the north of Yongyuan, the Jiuru Building and Muqing Building are nearly century-old structures from the late Republican era. Their exterior walls are finished with a traditional yellow sand and cement roughcast, while Spanish mission-style wooden window sunshades add character to the original earthy grey facades.

There's also a distinctive homestay in the park, blending traditional Chinese style with ethnic flavors of western Hunan. What caught my eye most was the bedside lamp, its shade shaped like a Miao ethnic headdress. Inside the room, the unique screen is composed of individual panels embroidered with traditional Chinese patterns. The wooden construction materials emphasize a natural aesthetic. Culinary delights will also be developed. Currently, the park offers 160 shared workstations, with 1,200 square meters transformed into 20 office spaces for simple and flexible working. The ground floor has become a 1,000-square-meter immersive exhibition hall, displaying over 300 works covering weaving, embroidery, ceramics, enamel, kites, medicinal incense, and more.

Near Qianmen Street, there is an old Beijing hutong that was once one of the longest in the Qianmen area. Built in the Ming Dynasty, it was famous for gathering stone-grinding craftsmen and shops and was one of the four major commercial circles of the Qianmen district. Historically lined with shops, besides stone-grinders, there were post offices, restaurants, inns, pharmacies, and more. The once-bustling lane has been renovated and given a fresh look. Let's explore this iconic hutong in the eastern Qianmen commercial area and savor its new appearance.

Damochang is divided into East and West, located between Qianmen and Chongwenmen, once the longest in Beijing's outer city. Walking into West Damochang Street, you'll still find longtime residents. The renovated hutong is wider, with old dilapidated houses replaced by new buildings that retain an old style. In the early morning, it's especially peaceful. You can stroll along West Damochang Hutong all the way to Qianmen Street, contrasting with the bustling crowds there. Ride the tram to soak in the city's historic charm.

The old memorial archway is a must-visit photo spot. It has appeared in countless films and TV dramas, serving as a beautiful postcard of old Beijing. Walking along the main road of Qianmen Street, the shops are all time-honored brands: Daoxiangcun, Quanjude, Qianxiangyi, and other century-old stores. Every lifelike bronze statue seems to tell stories of this city's deep cultural memories, showcasing the charm of old Beijing. Dashilan has over 500 years of history, once a bustling commercial area in central old Beijing, an important part of the southern axis, stretching 275 meters from east to west. Opposite it, Xianyukou gathers famous old Beijing restaurants, retail shops, theaters, bathhouses, teahouses, and craft workshops. Many local snacks can be found here.

Nestled in Changpuhe Park in Dongcheng District is a trendy theater. Take Metro Line 1 to Tian'anmen East, exit, enter Nanchizi Street, then turn into a quiet little lane. Hidden in the serene old hutong is 'Dongyuan Theater,' a celebrity hotspot where Zhang Ruoyun's travel show was filmed. With high walls and gray tiles, long corridors, rockeries, deep courtyards, and a traditional stage, this place exudes an antique charm. On a sweltering August afternoon, I invited my girlfriends to enjoy afternoon tea and a tea ceremony performance here. Dongyuan Theater perfectly blends a garden courtyard with a classical opera house, brimming with artistic atmosphere. Here, you can watch tea ceremonies, taste delicious snacks, and enjoy opera performances. The open-air attic is ideal for relaxing and taking photos. On the first floor, there's a library where you can borrow books. It's truly a pleasure to be in such a cozy, comfortable environment.

The theater regularly hosts opera performances; classics like 'Dream of the Red Chamber' have been staged here. The layout is compact, with the stage, dressing rooms, lounge, audience seating, and courtyard accommodating around 190 people. Dongyuan Theater aims to promote traditional Chinese culture and foster international cultural exchange. Visiting here, you can appreciate the profound opera culture and soak in the rich artistic vibe.

Tall red walls, drooping willows, inside Beijing's Second Ring Road, by the Changpu River. Turn from the bustling streets into a quiet, ancient hutong. Low-hanging wires run parallel in mid-air, slicing the washed-blue sky into even strips. An elderly person walks their dog, and clusters of dandelion seeds are lifted by the wind, beginning their journey outside the Forbidden City. In this fast-paced metropolis, return to simplicity and experience traditional Chinese culture.

Travel Journal Index: 1. Baigongfang: A century-old handicraft, an intangible cultural heritage, respectfully called 'Tu'er Ye' by Beijingers. 2. Yongyuan: Another trendy spot in Beijing, famous for producing Dabao, now China's first ICH-themed creative park. 3. Damochang Street: Renowned for stone-grinding craftsmen, a landmark of the eastern Qianmen area. 4. Qianmen Street. 5. Dongyuan Theater: An Instagram-famous theater near the Forbidden City, perfect for afternoon tea.

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