A Culinary Journey Through Beijing in Early Autumn – Finally Keeping My Date with the Imperial Capital

In early autumn, I traveled a thousand miles, heart racing with excitement, to China's glorious capital — to celebrate Motherland's birthday! Please give me a round of applause, thank you!

A one-line summary of this National Day trip: "Walking left me physically exhausted, the crowds left me mentally drained." The more I say, the more tears...

The first half is text-heavy, so let's kick off with a few teaser photos to get a taste.

And finally, one portrait shot to seal the deal.

Not every journey begins with longing, and not every trip is undertaken with a joyful heart.

I revised this part over a dozen times — writing, deleting, rewriting — just so it would read lightly, glossing over things, and more importantly, to avoid repeating the pitfall of careless words...

Sometimes, people are so strange: knowing they shouldn't do something, they do it; knowing they shouldn't say something, they say it; knowing there's a wall ahead, they still charge into it.

This is dedicated to all the kids who ever went through a chuunibyou phase, thinking of themselves as the heroine in a workplace drama.

—"We have all been vulnerable, but we will eventually become invulnerable."

10 Must-Do Experiences in Beijing

2. Tick off iconic landmarks (Forbidden City, Prince Gong’s Mansion, Summer Palace, Old Summer Palace, Bird’s Nest, Water Cube, etc.)

3. Cultivate your artistic sensibilities at galleries and museums — after all, this is the capital; the masterpieces and antiques here outshine those in museums in other cities.

4. Prestigious universities (Tsinghua and Peking University, come and crush us academic mortals)

5. Visit Beijing Film Academy or Central Academy of Drama to spot today’s beauties and heartthrobs, tomorrow’s stars

6. Wander Beijing’s hutongs to soak up the old Beijing atmosphere

7. Don’t miss Beijing’s autumn scenery — the ginkgo avenue in Ditan Park, the ginkgo forests in Zhanggezhuang, Xiaojing Village, the ginkgo avenue at Diaoyutai (Why go to all of them? Because they’re crowded! You need to cast a wide net to find a quiet corner for those portrait masterpieces. If one spot works, you can skip the rest... In the end, I didn’t go to any.)

8. Savor the most authentic old Beijing instant-boiled lamb — Xiyuanju Old Beijing Instant-Boiled Mutton, and take a stroll around Dashilar. Experience the feeling of old Beijing.

9. Watch a performance at the National Centre for the Performing Arts in the evening (Later I checked the NCPA’s schedule — it’s National Day, so they have to highlight the theme, right? A slew of “red” shows. So, sadly we didn’t go. Sigh, with my political awareness, it’s a wonder I don’t mess up more.)

10. Experience unique spots: Beijing’s bars, artsy coffee shops, artsy bookstores (Honestly, it’s all for photos, hehehehe. In the end, we went to none. I can only reply: I guess we were too steeped in the upright vibe of the landmarks and atmosphere — petty bourgeois sentiments, step aside.)

Scaling Mutianyu Great Wall Beyond My Physical Limits

This time I chose Mutianyu Great Wall. Although the transportation to and fro was a bit more complicated, precisely because of that, there were fewer people! Badaling is well-connected and the most well-known section of the wall, but it’s a sea of humanity. If you don’t want travel hassles, go for Badaling; if you don’t mind jostling shoulder to shoulder with the crowd, go for Badaling.

I feel incredibly lucky~~~ To reach Mutianyu, you must take the highway. I originally chose Mutianyu purely because it’s less crowded and somewhat accessible; I never worried about highway traffic during the holiday. In fact, there was no traffic jam at all, and I was immensely grateful. You see, sometimes overthinking just ties your hands and makes you miss so many sights. If I’d worried about highway traffic, I probably would not have chosen Mutianyu.

I went quite early and took lots of photos. By the time I’d taken enough, the crowds started swelling. Even though it was rather cold that day and drizzling — after all, it was National Day — some on the wall carried umbrellas, some wore raincoats, others wrapped themselves in thick coats. The stream of people grew, and by 9 a.m., you couldn’t get a shot without people in it.

Finished climbing the wall in the morning, then took a bus back to the city in the afternoon. If you’re staying near the wall, I suggest walking directly to the bus stop, which takes about 20–30 minutes. Because it’s downhill, it’s not tiring, and the asphalt road is in great condition with almost no cars going up. The scenery along the way is really beautiful, so you can walk, stop, and snap photos.

Cycling Through the Shichahai Night Scene

After resting, washing up, and eating at the hotel, it was already evening, and Saijuan hadn’t arrived yet. Knowing she’d have no energy to go out after arriving, and I was already bored, I freshened up, rented a bike, and went to scout the area.

I passed by the Drum and Bell Towers and ended up at Shichahai. The crowds! Look across the river — behind the white railings, all black with people packed densely.

Look at all those people in the photo~~~ I had zero desire to go in.

Scrambling Up Wanchun Pavilion to Grab the Perfect Photo Spot

To capture a panoramic shot of the Forbidden City without a soul in sight, we dashed straight to Jingshan Park early in the morning, merging with a crowd of elderly Beijingers doing their morning exercises. For the best view of the Forbidden City panorama, Wanchun Pavilion in Jingshan Park is the prime spot. We were the first to climb Wanchun Pavilion, but about halfway up, we were already gasping for air. Taking a single step felt like overcoming impossible odds. An old man behind us, sprightly in pace, overtook us with calls in his Beijing accent, successfully claiming the first place. If not for the race to the best photo position, I would have climbed with breaks like on the Great Wall. We gritted our teeth and pushed upward, finally reaching the summit as fourth place.

On Wanchun Pavilion, I photographed the sunrise over Beijing. Due to the weather, the results weren’t great — I suspect it was because of the smog. During my days in Beijing, I didn’t see gray skies, but the sky doesn’t look good in any of my photos. All the images in this travelog have been post-processed, so of course they look nice. I got the idea for this shot from a photographer’s Weibo: combining it with a portrait in a double exposure. The result should be quite nice.

With the Forbidden City panorama in the bag, I felt accomplished. Personally, I don’t think Jingshan Park is worth exploring in depth — it’s just a regular morning exercise park. On the way up Wanchun Pavilion, you’ll encounter the spot where Emperor Chongzhen hanged himself, marked by a pavilion; you can stop for a look.

Huge Crowds at Inner Second Ring Sights

First, we went to Prince Gong’s Mansion. Too many people; barely took any photos, so these will have to do. Prince Gong’s Mansion was once the residence of Heshen. Notably, there’s a rockery in the garden — it’s said that Heshen hid a "fortune" (福) stele written by Emperor Kangxi in the rockery. We intended to see the original, but likely everyone thought the same. The small rockery was packed inside and out, three layers deep in crowds, so we didn’t get to see it in the end.

Why are there vegetables in Prince Gong’s Mansion? Look at the cucumbers and small chili peppers in the photos, and other vegetables. Amidst my curiosity, I couldn’t help admiring — if I could grow flowers and vegetables in such a prime feng shui spot in Beijing, I could brag about it wherever I go!

After Shichahai, we casually wandered through hutongs. I thought these tangled webs of crisscrossing electric wires were only found in lower-tier cities — even in my small hometown, such scenes disappeared long ago. To my surprise, they’re a common sight in the hutongs of our great capital.

Such a leisurely scene. I remember this was common in my hometown when I was a child. Now, with urban planning and demolition everywhere, commercial buildings spring up one after another; the entire city becomes a giant construction site. These single-family courtyard homes can no longer be seen except in rural areas. People always long for urbanisation when life is behind, and once urbanised, they yearn to return to a simpler environment. We are so contradictory and never satisfied.

The sunlight was truly wonderful — I just couldn’t resist taking photos!

After Yonghe Temple, we headed to Beihai Park. I must rant: the crowds were comparable to the Spring Festival rush. After buying tickets and entering, I had no desire to explore; I just rested near the entrance. This photo looks the way it does because even the lake was packed with boatloads of people~~

A Stroll Along the Central Axis

At night, roaming aimlessly around Tiananmen Square on the central axis.

Tiananmen Square — the base of the Monument to the People’s Heroes was covered with people. Forgive me for such a bizarrely framed shot.

Look at the stance of the PLA soldiers versus the crowds. Honestly, are they so well-proportioned because the Party forbids them from eating meat?

As dusk fell over Tiananmen Square, the sky in the photo turned out blue. I forgot to mention, we happened to catch the flag-lowering ceremony. Too bad — the crowd was impenetrable, swelling outward with the flagpole at the centre. I couldn’t squeeze in at all.

Wandering and walking, night soon fell entirely.

Hungry, we phoned ahead to reserve a table at Siji Minfu near Dashilar for roast duck. We made the reservation too late — it would be a two-hour wait. So we idly strolled Dashilar.

Bought a candied hawthorn stick to stave off hunger and, by the way, strike a pose.

Should we go in? No! Because we’d already seen the one in Hong Kong.

The duck roasting process is fully transparent; the kitchen is open, and you can watch everything through a large glass window. For the first time, I realised how extravagant and wasteful Beijing roast duck is. A whole duck costs nearly 300 yuan, half a duck over 100, yet the chef only slices off a small portion of skin and a bit of meat — the rest is thrown straight into the bin!!! I stood outside the glass, dumbfounded, my heart aching!!! I never really craved roast duck anyway. It’s said that Quanjude, such a big company, has revenue less than one-third of Juewei Duck Neck, a waste of the brand. Let’s go eat instant-boiled lamb~

Xiyuanju Old Beijing Instant-Boiled Mutton (Qianmen Branch) ~ Off to a feast!

Before coming to Beijing, I had planned various foodie experiences. Old Beijing instant-boiled lamb was particularly mouth-watering. This shop was recommended by the innkeeper, said to be a long-established brand with unchanged quality, frequented by old Beijingers. After an evening stroll, we headed there.

Traditional Beijing hotpot: the broth is simply boiling water, with a few scallion segments, ginger slices, and goji berries. Compared to the richly flavoured broths we’re used to, this is truly a stream of purity. The soup base seems to add nothing to the ingredients, but that’s precisely why you can taste the most primal flavour of the lamb.

My favourite at Xiyuanju is the sesame dipping sauce. They say this is the taste of Beijing! Mixed with fermented bean curd, chive flower paste, shrimp oil, and optional chopped cilantro — it’s fresh, savoury, thick, and satisfying! Every table also has free phone charging cables, very convenient.

Their meat mainly features lamb and beef. They have a cooperative ranch on the Sunite grasslands in Inner Mongolia. Many varieties of lamb are hand-sliced fresh, each with a different texture, the meat carrying a small amount of fat. The meat is fine-textured, with a bit of oil yet not greasy. The house special Hundred-Day Lamb and Lamb Fillet Strips are signatures; it’s said that these are must-orders for Beijing-style hotpot. Swished in the clear broth, the texture is tender yet springy, the juices bursting from the fibrous seams, more fragrant with every chew. The flavour lingers on the palate.

After the meal, Saijuan had no energy left to continue, while I still had a few nighttime spots to visit. So we split up: she took the leftovers back to rest at the hotel, I carried on with my camera.

Pardon my low political awareness; I’ve already forgotten what these buildings are called...

Blazing Sun at Two Gardens

Originally, the two gardens plus Tsinghua and Peking University were planned over two days, but because the gardens were so crowded, visitor flow was controlled everywhere — people inside had to leave before those outside could enter, wave after wave. Pushed forward by the crowd behind, you couldn’t even pause to admire. It felt like an assembly line of products. We breezed through both gardens and still had most of the morning left, so with more than half a day, we decided to visit Tsinghua and PKU on a whim.

The Seventeen-Arch Bridge, a must-introduce sight for tour groups. When we arrived at the Summer Palace, there were barely any people. By the time we circled back at about 9:30, it was a sea of humanity. The photo below was taken on our return — the bridge was packed.

Ah, lovely sunlight. No more words, let me pose for two shots.

After the Summer Palace, we went to the Old Summer Palace. No such luck this time — at this hour, it was swarming. Fortunately, the spots I fancied were overlooked by everyone else.

At the ruins site, heavy history — do not forget, strive to be strong!

After the Old Summer Palace, we finished lunch and rode bikes straight to Tsinghua. We were super lucky, entering through a small gate without a hitch. Later we learned that during the National Day holiday, visitors had to queue, show ID, fill in a form, and observe limited entry times. Our luck didn’t hold at Peking University — we circled the walls, every side gate refused entry. We could only enter through the designated gate, and when we got to the sole visitor gate, the queue stretched endlessly, with over two hours until the opening time. You couldn’t leave the line. We waited half an hour, and behind us the queue grew even longer. The sun was brutal; after weighing our options, we decided to come back next time.

Dinner was a quick bite. Stomach full, we headed to the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube to tick off the landmarks.

Because I wanted to capture that classic panoramic shot of the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube, Saijuan and I split up again — she toured the sites, while I pedaled my bike up overpasses and into high-rises, searching for a perfect vantage point. Online sources said the pedestrian bridge outside the subway station offers the best view. I furtively climbed up, only to find, amid highway traffic, a row of tall trees blocking the view. Not good. So I entered nearby buildings, but found that commercial buildings didn’t allow rooftop access, and I couldn’t get into residential buildings. Finally, I discovered the optimal viewpoint: the Olympic Tower nearby. One glance at the ticket price, and I decided to give up.

I only photographed the Bird’s Nest. The most widely circulated shot online is one with the stadium reflected in a lake. However, I circled around and saw no lake. Exhausted from so much walking, I was too tired to look further or photograph the Water Cube.

This photo was taken on the pedestrian bridge near the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube.

The night before, Saijuan said she wanted to go to Badaling Great Wall. I asked why she suddenly wanted the Wall again, and she said Xiao Ke had mocked her — coming to Beijing without climbing the Great Wall means you haven’t been to Beijing. Xiao Ke is another of our university roommates; Saijuan had been sending her real-time updates throughout the trip. Okay, then today I’ll tick off the landmarks alone.

I rushed to the Temple of Heaven early in the morning, just to capture it without people.

What I mainly wanted to photograph was the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. This is the long, long avenue leading to it. The spire jutting above the three gates in the distance is the Hall of Prayer; you can see it from far away.

There was still an hour before opening. I first photographed the surroundings; getting close to the wall, I could see a corner of the Hall of Imperial Heaven and the Hall of Prayer.

I had to wait a long time, so I played with selfies at the entrance. Hmm~~~ the shots came out a bit ugly, so I won’t post them to scare anyone.

As soon as the gate to the Hall of Prayer opened, I rushed in and took this shot, only to find staff already wandering inside... Which gate did they come in through?

Then I went into selfie mode again. I blended into the crowd, put down my phone tripod, walked over nonchalantly, snapped a photo, walked back, and retrieved the tripod — the whole sequence smooth as flowing water, as if nothing happened.

By the time I reached the Circular Mound Altar, this was the best I could do. There’s a famous Echo Wall here, a thick circular wall. They say if two people stand on opposite sides against the wall, one whispering softly, the other can hear clearly. I saw many testing it. I’m not sure if it’s true — curious, go try it yourselves.

Wandering aimlessly, I came upon Beiluogu, just a street away from Nanluogu, yet so quiet with hardly anyone around.

This restaurant has many cats inside and quite a few diners, but the smell was a bit...

After coming out of the art museum, while waiting at the bus stop, I saw an uncle practising calligraphy on the ground with water. He wrote so beautifully. I didn’t practise hard as a kid; now my handwriting looks like crab scrawls. Someone once said my writing is like a three-year-old’s. So I especially worship people with good handwriting. Bus after bus came and went, and I didn’t want to leave.

Leisurely Strolling Through the Forbidden City

Today was the last day of the trip. The reason I saved the most important stop, the Forbidden City, for last was a carefully weighed decision after deep thought and balancing various pros and cons.

Pass through the Tiananmen Gate Tower and walk further to reach the Meridian Gate. Visiting the Forbidden City follows a one-way south-to-north route: enter via the Meridian Gate, exit via the Gate of Divine Prowess. Of course, if you have the stamina, you can wander back and forth north to south as much as you like. Exiting the Shenwu Gate, across the street is Jingshan Park — oh yes, also separated by a moat. Look up and you’ll see the long lenses on Wanchun Pavilion pointed this way.

Since the most iconic central axis couldn’t be photographed, we just strolled around. We bought a combination ticket that included the Hall of Clocks and the Treasure Gallery. The Hall of Clocks has a clock performance at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., each about three minutes. I strongly recommend visiting the Treasure Gallery and Hall of Clocks — worth every penny.

Without further ado, here are the pictures. I’ve already forgotten which halls these are. I’m the type who, as they say, in one ear and out the other — hearing it and instantly forgetting. Ignorance is shameful, but please don’t emulate me.

Forbidden City, ah! I wore my yellow dress again — yellow dress goes best with the red walls of the Forbidden City!

I find this scene quite interesting. In the solemn, weighty atmosphere of the Forbidden City, seeing a construction scene full of modern life feels rather contrasting. Borrowing the phrase "Masters in the Forbidden City" in a playful way, I think it’s amusing.

This long corridor in the Forbidden City stunned me. The towering red walls on both sides perfectly embody the classical sorrow expressed in the poetic line "Lonely empty court, spring late to end."

The next two collages were taken in the Hall of Clocks and Treasure Gallery. Photos don’t capture even a ten-thousandth of their essence. You must see them with your own eyes — must see them, must see them, must see them. Important things said three times!!!

This unremarkable chair is made entirely of antlers. I was stunned — please imagine my amazed expression.

Heh, coming out of the Treasure Gallery and Hall of Clocks, I struck a couple more poses.

Finally, a triple shot with Saijuan.

After seven months, I’ve finally finished this Beijing travelog. Actually, there are many more memories of the imperial capital. Next time, I’ll share more.