A Hidden Hutong Guesthouse by Shichahai: Making City Travel So Simple
This year, an unexpected force majeure changed our supposedly unshakable way of life, especially for those who love to travel and have fun. Life has shifted drastically.
When things started to improve, we began thinking about how to recapture our passions within reach, and so staying in hotels in our own city became a popular choice. A few months ago, guesthouses in the Beijing suburbs were already booked solid.
This weekend, a friend and I embarked on our fourth “staycation” at a guesthouse in the Beijing city center this year—a doorstep getaway that injected freshness into our lives.
The guesthouse we stayed at this time, “Yin Hai,” was found on the Tujia app. I often browse it in my spare time and have bookmarked many hutong guesthouses, each with distinctive locations and styles—some hidden in plain sight along the street, some deep within the hutongs, and some blended with restaurants.
Last year, I visited Yin Hai’s restaurant twice; it’s a social-media darling run by a Michelin-starred chef. This year, I wanted to try its guesthouse. Unlike typical hotels clustered in one courtyard or building, Yin Hai is spread across the Shichahai area, hidden in multiple courtyards in Xisi, Xinjiekou, and Shichahai—hence the name “Yin Hai,” meaning hidden around Shichahai.
Our room, Limu Keting, was tucked inside a hutong on Banqiao Toutiao, Xinjiekou, surrounded by old Beijing homes steeped in local life. Restaurants and small shops abound, so it’s convenient for daily needs and shopping.
The courtyard is named Limu Keting, and inside it’s divided into three guest rooms—two standard king rooms and our Yanxiu duplex suite. We pushed open the door in the afternoon, light and tree shadows flickering on the wall, a gorgeous moment in a lovely corner.
The suite spans 60 square meters, bright and spacious, with floor-to-ceiling windows in each room for natural light.
Entering, you’re in the master bedroom, with a comfortable king bed, an electric mosquito repellent, air purifier, TV, and more, all forming the signature Yin Hai cultural guesthouse vibe.
The second bedroom is on the loft’s upper floor, with a single tatami bed by the window. The stairs are steep—not so suitable for adults, but kids will love it.
Downstairs is a small living room with a lazy sofa, books, and an antique makeup box waiting to be discovered, perfect for a slow-paced life.
The bathrooms are large, and there are two of them, so each bedroom has its own ensuite bathroom and shower, ensuring privacy.
The room could use a bit more color, some wall decor, and attention to detail to enhance the design and avoid roughness.
【Kitchen + Courtyard】
Breakfast is not included; you need to buy your own or cook in the kitchen. The west wing of the courtyard is the kitchen, fully equipped with cookware and stoves, and thoughtfully provides four bottles of Beibingyang, a classic Beijing soda. The guesthouse also offers barbecue services—grilling in the courtyard is delightful.
We woke up naturally, set up a table and chairs in the courtyard, enjoyed a big jianbing and sipped Beibingyang, and looked up at the blue sky and persimmon tree. This down-to-earth lifestyle used to be our daily routine, but now it’s only an occasional dream come true.
Yin Hai has 20 courtyard properties in the Shichahai area, 50 guesthouses, two private Chinese dining rooms, and three cafés. I haven’t been to the cafés yet—I’ll try out more of these delightful spaces next time.
Yin Hai Cultural Space Guesthouse (Beijing Xinjiekou Branch)
Tujia app, Tujia.com
Address: No. 6 Courtyard, Banqiao Toutiao, Xicheng District, Beijing (west side of the north gate of Jishuitan Hospital)
Baochao Hutong is a treasure trove, with just the right amount of commerce, rich local color, and residents still going about their lives. In my free time, I used to wander here often; it’s also a favorite among foreigners who know how to have fun.
The Orchid offers much more surprise than meets the eye—small and beautiful, yet small and complete.
Passing by The Orchid’s entrance, you wouldn’t guess that behind this ordinary Chinese restaurant façade hides Fu Rong Ji, a wildly popular Hong Kong-style cha chaan teng in Beijing. Since its 2018 opening, it has won over countless lovers of Hong Kong dim sum and old Beijing charm.
The L-shaped space is immaculate by day, cozy at night, with white tiles and black lines in classic Hong Kong diner style. In the very back, there are also two large round tables, and hidden even further inside is a small bar that only kindred spirits can enter.
Fu Rong Ji blends traditional Cantonese dim sum techniques with modern flavors. Its neo-Cantonese menu is packed with tempting snacks, each one calling out to be ordered. The flavors here were brought back from visits to Shunde and Chaoshan. I truly dislike the fast-fashion style of mall eateries and the stiffness of big restaurants—none of that here; it’s all life, with the atmosphere of neighbors passing by outside.
One look at the kid devouring the food and you know it’s love at first bite.
My favorite is the scallop sauce chicken feet—so tender and flavorful, one steamer basket is never enough. But leave room for other dishes; there are chicken feet in the claypot rice too—chicken feet and spare ribs steamed claypot rice.
Other must-tries: Fu Rong Ji tossed wontons, fermented bean curd steamed broccoli, curry sesame balls, and spring rolls with mustard inside. Don’t miss the char siu noodle soup and Chen Village beef brisket rice noodle rolls—all rich in texture.
Fu Rong Ji’s house soda is very refreshing, with big ice cubes and a hint of sweetness.
Prices vary by portion size: small 18, large 26, top 36, super 48, exquisite 58 RMB.
Per person: approx. 105 RMB
Hours: Tue–Sun 11:00–21:00
Address: No. 63, Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing
BAOJIAN
Nightlife in the hutongs is particularly special. Those in the know go straight to the very back of Fu Rong Ji, push open a dark wooden door, and discover a treasure of a bar with a clever name: BAOJIAN.
BAOJIAN is a speakeasy bar tucked away at the heart of the guesthouse and two restaurants, like a central beam supporting the whole building—a lift between different dimensions. You have to open two doors and pass through other spaces to “unearth” this independent spot, and the search itself is a delight of exploration.
BAOJIAN aims to present playful cocktails, a chic modern setting, and a night of infinite possibilities. A bartender from Turkey uses unique base spirits and whiskies gathered from around the world to create inventive drink menus. Highly recommended is “The Neighbor’s Persimmon Tree,” a house sour blended with coffee candy that the owner Joel brought back from Mexico and whisky infused with woody spices—one sip and it feels like you’ve tasted a persimmon.
From the dark little bar room, follow the steep black spiral staircase upward, like Super Mario finding the beanstalk and climbing into another world to collect coins. The top of the stairs connects to The Bake Shop, one of Beijing’s most popular bakeries. Founded in 2017, The Bake Shop originally started as a small-batch handmade bakery by two American artists living in Beijing. They specialize in naturally fermented sourdough, chewy bagels, classic American-style cookies, and sweet pastries, aiming to bring Beijingers the kind of bread families eat back home.
It had no physical store until 2019, when The Bake Shop found its home at The Orchid. In this tiny offline shop, you can buy soft cookies, pastries, spreads, open-faced sandwiches, and grilled sandwiches. They offer creative ways to enjoy bread and fresh ingredients in imaginative recipes. Their takeaway bagels sell out daily. But note the hours—it closes at 6 PM.
At 5 PM, BAOJIAN opens, just in time for sunset. The autumn sun loses its intensity, filtering through the gaps of the big persimmon tree and falling on the white stone house, layered grey tiles, and densely packed rooftops. Here, we easily claim Drum Tower’s most beautiful skyline.
BAOJIAN
Per person: approx. 140 RMB
Hours: Tue–Sun 17:00–24:00
The Bake Shop
Hours: Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00
Address: No. 63, Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing
Toast at The Orchid
Walking past the lonely streetlights of the hutong, using the public toilet and little shops as landmarks, I made my way back to the room. This experience gave even a local like me the illusion of traveling.
In fact, what made The Orchid famous is its rooftop terrace restaurant, Toast at The Orchid. Originally just a breakfast spot for guests, it was so beautiful and guests demanded so much that in 2015 it opened to the public as a Middle Eastern and Mediterranean restaurant.
To preserve the experience for courtyard guests, the restaurant now has its own entrance, no longer using the back stairs. Climbing up along the vines, winding paths reveal one space after another.
Standing on the high terrace and gazing out, the earlier hustle and bustle fades from view. In a little while, it will be time for the big persimmons to ripen.
Ever since English entered our lives, the phrase “one of” has become a contradictory habit. I remember asking my teacher in middle school: if something is already “the most,” there can only be one, so why “one of the most”? I still haven’t got an answer. But I do know that Toast, hailed as one of Beijing’s most in hutong rooftop restaurants, is something those fake rooftop places on top of buildings cannot compare with or replicate.
Since you can’t take the beauty with you, make sure to sit in the garden terrace, order a brunch designed by Joel himself, and take it away in your belly. At Toast, you can also enjoy afternoon tea and a proper dinner.
Naturally, a Middle Eastern–style restaurant serves Middle Eastern dishes. We had the Shakshuka, a stewed egg dish popular in Israel, paired with long-missed pita bread baked with organic black wheat flour from Shaanxi.
I can never tell the difference between English and American breakfasts, and Toast’s menu confirms this confusion many people share: what exactly is in an English breakfast? Even Sherlock Holmes can’t explain it, so we just went with the flow. That plate with tomato, spinach, pork sausage, roasted potatoes, and poached eggs—that’s the Western-style “leftovers” dish, so to speak.
Other options include skillet eggs, sweetheart ironman toast, a full range of sandwiches, labneh, “health is the most beautiful,” and more. Complementary drinks are refillable.
For drinkers, there’s fine alcohol; for photo lovers, stunning views; for foodies, excellent meals; and for guesthouse enthusiasts, a desire to stay in every room…
And if you haven’t been here yet, it’s a solid regret.
Toast at The Orchid
Hours: 11:00–21:00
Per person: approx. 140 RMB; afternoon tea: 188 for two. Brunch and dinner also available; reservations required as it’s often crowded.
Address: No. 65, Baochao Hutong, Gulou East Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing
Author: Na Ganqing Haole
Independent photographer with an artistic touch, travel, food, and lifestyle writer
Certified and contracted travel blogger on multiple platforms, foodie
Weibo & WeChat: Na Ganqing Haole
Reproduction or commercial use of text and images without permission is strictly prohibited.
