A Weekend Getaway to Miyun, Beijing: Enjoy the Most Beautiful Autumn Colors

While the south still basks in gentle warmth, by mid-October the north has already had three rounds of autumn rain. From the sweet osmanthus at the end of August to the reddened maple leaves at the end of October, the fleeting two months—on windless days, the clouds drift far away; when the wind blows, sunlight floods the city—create Beijing's one-of-a-kind autumn. The historic culture of the ancient capital of six dynasties and the modern pattern of mountains, waterways, and city have, over centuries, made Beijing's autumn the most stunning in North China.

Miyun, northeast of the city center, is rich in tourism resources: the only stretch of the Simatai Great Wall with its original Ming-era appearance, the Miyun Reservoir known as the 'Pearl of the Yan Mountains', the riot of autumn colors on Yunmeng Mountain, the glittering ice of Black Dragon Pool in winter, and the year-round lush charm of Gubei Water Town—these are all unmissable highlights in Miyun. This autumn, visitors flock here in search of the most authentic old capital atmosphere and the most characteristic Beijing customs and scenery.

Coming from downtown Beijing to Miyun, a weekend is just the right amount of time. For self-driving enthusiasts, the roads are smooth; for those who prefer public transport, it's convenient and quick. The drive takes about 1.5 to 2 hours from the city center—no exhausting travel, only intoxicating autumn views, tempting cuisine, and pleasant accommodation.

DAY 1: First Stop: Yunmeng Mountain

Yunmeng Mountain is well-known throughout the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei region. Located in the Shicheng Town of Miyun, this scenic area was originally called Yunmeng Mountain, said to be the incarnation of Yunmeng, daughter of Nüwa and Fuxi. Later, because clouds often linger around the peak, it was renamed Yunmeng Mountain (Misty Mountain). It is a national forest park, dubbed the 'Little Yellow Mountain of the North', and one of the rare places around Beijing where you can admire mountains, water, and the Great Wall, as well as clouds, waterfalls, rocks, and pine trees—a true scenic wonderland.

As soon as you enter the scenic area, you'll see the first Instagram-worthy spot: the Rainbow Stairway. The steps are painted in a variety of bright colors, each step a different hue, making you feel as if you're walking on a rainbow. As the colors dance, your mood lifts, becoming cheerful and light. There are 259 steps, symbolizing 'love me for a long, long time'—a wonderful meaning for couples walking hand in hand up the steps.

Yunmeng Mountain rises just over 1,000 meters, so climbing is not strenuous. Along the way, the autumn scenery unfolds like a thickly textured oil painting, growing more enchanting with every step.

But if you'd rather just enjoy the views without hiking, the well-equipped facilities make it totally possible. You can first take the scenic bus, which ends at a stop halfway up the mountain. This is not only a place to rest, but also a 'feature-packed' spot on the mountainside.

Here you'll find Wanglong Slope, Jingshan Pavilion, Star-Moon Lake, the 520 Valley of Love leisure area, Heart Lock Bridge, alpine cascading waterfalls, and Pine Cone Paradise, among other entertainment and sightseeing facilities.

Standing at Jingshan Pavilion, close by, sunlight dances on the leaves; in the distance, the layered mountains are a patchwork of autumn colors. It all comes together like a magnificent oil painting, a perfect blend of ever-changing, ethereal hues.

Coming down from Jingshan Pavilion, Star-Moon Lake comes into view, quietly shimmering like a jewel under the warm autumn sun, exuding a captivating luster.

By the lake, the Tent Restaurant nestles against green hills, offering both delicious food and beautiful views. With the fresh breeze, swaths of grass, and comfortable, relaxing wicker chairs… in this undisturbed corner, time seems to slow down.

After a short break, continue up the mountain. To reach the summit, hiking enthusiasts can take the climbing trail, while those with children or elderly companions can opt for the cable car. Yunmeng Mountain's cable car is one of the best near Beijing, stretching over 2,500 meters. The ride from the mountainside to the top takes about 15 minutes and is very smooth, so even those afraid of heights can ride at ease.

Sitting in the cable car, you'll be treated to mountain rocks, an expanse of autumn colors, and not far away, Miyun Reservoir glowing with an enchanting Tiffany blue in the sunlight. Everything in sight is a scenic mountain beauty, refreshing your body and mind even before you reach the summit.

After getting off the cable car, walk to the Lingyun Viewing Platform. When visiting Yunmeng Mountain, be sure to climb up here to take in the panoramic view of Miyun Reservoir and the rolling, verdant mountains stretching as far as the eye can see.

Take a deep breath of the fresh, natural air, and you'll feel your mind expand, putting aside all the anxiety and unease of work and life.

After coming down the mountain, it's time for a meal. Having worked up an appetite, you'll find a string of farmhouse restaurants and eateries around the scenic area, perfect for lunch. In Miyun, you definitely shouldn't miss the reservoir fish. Bighead carp, grass carp, common carp, and silver carp are all cooked into distinctive, aromatic fish dishes. Try the stewed fish, stovetop-baked fish, fish head with flatbread, or fried small shrimp, paired with rustic, authentic corn cakes—just perfect!

Second Stop: Night Tour of Gubei Water Town

In the ancient town, waterways crisscross, with the old Tanghe River tributary winding through. Ancient buildings and folk houses are built along the water. Take a ride on a black-awning boat over the green waves, listen to the boatman recount the town's history, pass under stone bridges and alongside inns and homes on both banks, gaze up at the towering waterfall, and admire the winding Great Wall. Though your body is in the north, your heart will feel as if immersed in a gentle water town of the south. In autumn, the red leaves of Gubei Water Town draw countless tourists and photographers.

As night falls, the town's lights come on one by one. Houses on the old bluestone streets are tightly packed, ancient and elegant. Long alleys, winding waterways—this is the most beautiful time of day in the water town.

Wangjing Street is bustling with crowds, brimming with the lively atmosphere of daily life and the aroma of street food. The beacon fires of the Great Wall from centuries ago have long been replaced by the vibrant hustle and bustle of earthly life. The mountains and rivers remain the same, but the world has changed.

The artfully designed, panoramic night lighting is transcendentally beautiful, with a hint of warmth in its coolness. Whether it's the intricate concept or the magnificent scale, this is a sight not to be missed.

Every brick and tile is like a painting, the mountains and waters like a dream. Look up and see the Simatai Great Wall glowing in the night. The water town at night is completely different from its daytime appearance. Under the illumination, a new scene emerges: everything becomes radiant, and the brickwork of the houses seems to sparkle.

In the night, the lights shine especially bright. The streets are not wide, and visitors sit by the riverbank, relaxed and leisurely. Sitting in a boat, you glide through a stream of bright colors, the whole river shimmering with gold. The entire water town is decorated with colorful lights, a glorious burst of brilliant reds and purples, an endless spectacle of dazzling prosperity.

DAY 2: First Stop: Gubei Water Town in Daylight

In Lao She's words, autumn in Beiping was nothing short of perfection: 'The weather, neither too cold nor too hot. The food: apples, pears, persimmons, dates, grapes—each in several varieties. As for plants, the chrysanthemums, with their myriad types and fantastic forms, could be called the finest under heaven. Red leaves could be seen in the Western Hills, and you could go boating on Beihai—even though the lotus blossoms were past their prime, the lotus leaves still carried a whiff of fragrance.' Time flies. Over fifty years have passed since the waters of Taiping Lake deepened. If Mr. Lao She had visited Gubei Water Town, there would surely have been one more item on his list of autumn enchantments in Beiping.

Gubei Water Town is located in Simatai Village, Gubeikou Town, Miyun District, Beijing. It lies against the most beautiful and precipitous Simatai Great Wall and encompasses the Yuanyang Lake Reservoir. By early October, while the city still carries a trace of summer heat, here the autumn sky is already high and crisp. The warm autumn sun comforts visitors as creepers show off the season's colors even earlier than maple and ginkgo trees, stretching and swaying almost boastfully. And the sky glimpsed through the leaves is that clear, deep blue unique to the north.

The cool breeze carries messages; the autumn moon knows no bounds. Every autumn, warm things are especially nostalgic. The radiant autumn waterside scenery of Gubei Water Town is like a deep plea, allowing people to reminisce amidst feelings of parting. In the 2018 Beijing Tourism Citizens' Selection, Gubei Water Town was voted the number one destination for viewing red leaves by netizens and travel experts alike.

Walls covered with creepers have been burnished by the long summer sun into a mature, eye-catching red, making the gray and white buildings of the water town come alive with vibrancy. In the autumn mood, leaves fall, turn yellow, or blaze red, with a few stubborn traces of green. But everyone knows that behind this lush green lies the full burst of autumn.

The most beautiful autumn scenes are hidden in the alleyways, where red leaves stretch leisurely along the paths. Walking among them feels like moving through a painting, and these richly colored walls make wonderful backdrops for photos.

Unlike the vast expanses of red leaves at Fragrant Hills, Hongluo Temple, or Pofengling, Gubei Water Town's red leaves possess a unique beauty where plants blend with architecture, and scenery with culture.

The famous Yongshun Dyehouse is tucked away on an old street. The shiny flagstone path leads visitors to this once-prosperous workshop. Yongshun Dyehouse was founded in 1900 by Zhang Jukui, who learned the dyer's craft in his youth in his hometown. The colors he dyed were vivid and long-lasting, with stable hues. He opened his own shop, naming it 'Yongshun Dyehouse', and business boomed, gaining renown throughout the capital.

'Yongshun dyes, the colors of plants, tied by hand, colors of nature.' The dyehouse displays a full range of production tools. Visitors can watch authentic, traditional dyeing techniques, and even have an old craftsman guide you through a DIY dyeing project. For tourists, these rarely seen tools and processes are full of fun and imagination.

The hanging dyed cloth flutters like sails, tracing graceful arcs in the air—a sight that brightens the eyes. Adults pose for photos among the brilliant fabrics, while children laugh and play in the sea of color. The autumn scenery becomes even livelier because of the people.

Waterways wind through the town, and bridges of varying heights become places for people to pause. The deep jade-green water and the trees along the banks, touched by autumn frost, watch the gently rocking boats come and go. In this scene, even those who have never been to the south will likely understand the meaning of 'gentle water town'.

Second Stop: The Ancient Imperial Road in Gubeikou Village

Gubeikou Village is very close to Gubei Water Town, only about 10 kilometers away, a roughly 15-minute drive. It is an ancient village with a long history, known as the 'Gateway to the Capital, Lock and Key to the Capital Region'. In wartime, it was a strategic military stronghold; in peacetime, a vital pass for overland trade between the interior and the outside world.

In addition to Ming Dynasty Great Wall sections, the village also boasts the oldest Northern Qi Great Wall in Beijing. Other historic sites include the Ancient Imperial Road built in 1680, the Yanglinggong Temple, the God of Wealth Temple, and the Medicine King Temple built in 1025, and the Sanyan Well constructed in 1205 during the Jin Dynasty.

Entering the village, the large characters 'Ancient Imperial Road' immediately catch the eye. A winding flagstone path along the river, the Ancient Imperial Road, stretches out, bearing the marks of centuries of history.

After the construction of the Chengde Mountain Resort, Qing Dynasty emperors often went there to escape the summer heat. To facilitate travel, the Jing-Re Imperial Road was built, and the Gubeikou section has been preserved to this day. Strolling along the Ancient Imperial Road, you can see the blue bricks underfoot and the old-style residences lining the way.

However, although these are beautiful, they have been renovated and rebuilt. The 'original' historical relics are actually hidden within the various villages.

Unlike the grandeur of imperial gardens like the Summer Palace or the artificial polish of ordinary resorts, Gubeikou Village offers a new scene at every step, with a distinctive charm. It carries the majestic and dignified style of a northern ancient town while also incorporating many features of a southern water town, creating an overall atmosphere that is rustic and elegant.

At the Historical and Cultural Exhibition Hall, the village's history unfolds before your eyes. Like many ancient villages in Beijing, Gubeikou Village was formed on the basis of an old city, and its chief architect might not be a stranger to many. The old fortress of Gubeikou was built in the early Ming Dynasty, in the 11th year of the Hongwu reign, and its builder was Xu Da.

As the first pass on the way into the capital, Gubeikou witnessed over 130 battles throughout history. During the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, the 'Battle of Gubeikou on the Great Wall' fired the first shot of Beijing's anti-Japanese war. This frontier town has weathered many storms, and as a result, villagers speak with great reverence when telling the stories of these heroes.

Climbing up Panlong Mountain to the north of the village, you can gaze at the Great Wall in the distance and also see a panoramic view of the whole village. In late autumn, the wind rustles, and the village, once resounding with clashing spears and armored horses, now enjoys peaceful times. History has left deep marks on this small town. For a journey of historical exploration, Gubeikou Town is well worth savoring.

Accommodation Recommendations: Yunmeng Shanju inside Yunmeng Mountain, guesthouses around Yunmeng Mountain, hotels inside Gubei Water Town, or folk villages near the ancient town.

Yunmeng Shanju: Located within the Yunmeng Mountain scenic area, it's the top choice for travelers spending two days there. The hotel sits among mountains at an altitude of 520 meters, with green hills behind and cascading waters in front. Its modern minimalist style and calming, warm color scheme allow you to enjoy mountain views right from your room—truly like living in a painting.

Impressions Courtyard: Miyun has many guesthouses, but Impressions Courtyard is a particularly fresh and quaint one. Not far from the scenic area, about a 10-minute drive, it consists of converted courtyard houses from the village west of Qikong Bridge in Xiwengzhuang Town. There are six small courtyards, hidden among the mountains, featuring both distinctive surrounding scenery and unique architecture.

The '1958' at the courtyard gate always arouses curiosity. The owner explains that 1958 was a hugely significant year for both Miyun and the local residents—that was the year construction of the Miyun Reservoir began, and residents of the village west of Qikong Bridge also relocated here that year to start a new life.

Every element in the courtyard is designed to follow the natural terrain. The natural scenery in the courtyards is rich and varied, with scattered buildings maintaining a quiet, rustic style. The simple spaces change with the natural surroundings, creating different atmospheres and moods.

On the basis of preserving the houses' original appearance, the owner has redesigned and renovated them, adding modern hospitality facilities. This retains the simplicity and elegance of the old houses while meeting the comfort and stylishness required by modern living.

Wheatyunyaqi Boutique Holiday Villa: Among the folk villages around Gubei Water Town, Wheatyunyaqi in Shaling, Matai New Village, stands out especially because of its upscale appearance.

From the moment you push open the door and walk into Wheatyunyaqi's lobby, you feel as if you've entered an ideal home. The mellow yellow lights, brick accent wall, transparent fireplace, space-age leather armchairs, vintage trunk-style tables, and deep green leather sofas all make you feel like you're in a space where retro and avant-garde coexist, and elegance and vitality keep a careful distance.

Each of the 28 standalone villas is split into two levels. Push open the wooden door and you'll find a courtyard designed according to each villa's layout, furnished with wooden tables and chairs. When the weather is right, enjoy a lively outdoor barbecue with family and friends, sitting around and savoring the sizzling grilled flavors. After the feast, quietly admire the moonlight, raise a toast—it's the ultimate pleasure.

The exterior and courtyards of the villas use wheat tones as the main design color, echoing the interior design style. The guest rooms are simply and brightly arranged, with a unified color scheme. The staggered raw wood accent walls and clean-lined furniture create a rustic, unadorned atmosphere, giving a warm and natural sense of intimacy.

Inside the villa, the ground floor comprises the communal living room, kitchen, minibar, TV, large sofa, mahjong room, and a bathroom. The second floor has the bedrooms, each with its own private bathroom, ensuring a high degree of guest privacy.

Perhaps a cozy sofa in one corner, a warm long lamp, or a vintage armchair will win you over; maybe the combination of original walls with dark bedding is what makes you linger; or the clean color scheme and toiletries in the bathroom, all offering just the right amount of comfort.

If you'd rather not worry about choosing meals, all three meals can be taken care of at Wheatyunyaqi. The on-site Wheatyunyaqi Restaurant matches the villa's style, with its red-and-white checkered tablecloths creating a subtle pastoral charm.

The restaurant's attention to detail is evident—even the small menu is hand-drawn, making it irresistible.

The dishes are exquisite, presenting Miyun's delicacies in a uniquely refined way that pleases the eye, the nose, and the palate, making every dining experience a feast for the senses.

Surrounding Folk Accommodations: Besides the high-end Wheatyunyaqi, the entire Simatai New Village offers guesthouses at various price points, with budget-friendly options around 200-300 yuan. These are just as clean and comfortable. The fresh, attractive exteriors are a delight to every visitor. Rooms, living rooms, kitchens, rooftops… every nook and cranny is arranged with care, letting you feel the host's warmth and hospitality.