Backpacking Russia on a Budget: 30 Days by Third-Class Train from Chita in the South to Murmansk on the Arctic Ocean in the North
During the pandemic, with nothing to do at home, I decided to finish writing all the things I hadn’t written, to have better memories when I’m old, and to help others as well. English is one of the major international languages in the world today, and the most widely used. The ruble’s depreciation has lowered travel costs, so now travelling in Russia is really a good deal. Russia isn’t English-friendly, which adds fear and mystery for those wanting to visit. Many people ask me about things that confuse them—food, accommodation, transport, and the language barrier. To meet everyone’s needs, I’ll write down what I know in plain, easy-to-understand detail.
Travel companions: I recruited people online: one man and three women. One was a fresh university graduate, two were around thirty, and one was a retired lady—me. The young handsome guy had a job in internet-related work, great character, kind, enthusiastic, always ready to help, a heartthrob among the beauties. With him around, we had a lot of fun. He naturally took on the role of team leader, and he worked hard throughout the trip. The older beauty was a freelancer, good at English, and served as translator. The younger beauty was an excellent cook; she handled all the cooking this time, and her great culinary skills brought joy to the journey. I did logistics, tidying up and odd jobs. This route was planned by me, and later routes were decided by the young guy.
Picture: from left, me, the young handsome guy, the older beauty, the younger beauty.
Visa: I applied on Taobao. I don’t often apply online, so to ensure success, I looked for a seller with high transaction volume, top ranking, and good reviews. Russian visa is basically pay-to-get. Price depends on low or high season. (I won’t mention names to avoid advertising, but can discuss privately.) Visa price: 720 RMB, courier fee additional, total 763. Visa validity: 30 days. Application started August 16, 2016, received August 27, processing usually 10–15 working days. Documents: passport, ID, Russian visa, bank card (won’t mention name).
Language tools: Youdao Translate, Google Translate. Google Maps, Booking.com for accommodation. Print a common phrase sheet with Russian, English, Chinese, point to it for easy use. Even without English, with translate, map, and accommodation apps, you can travel the world confidently.
Insurance: I bought AIG “Le You You” overseas travel insurance for 195 RMB. Border crossing mandatory insurance cost 250 rubles (about 26 RMB). Total: 195+26=221.
Accommodation: This trip was mainly by train, so we tried to take overnight trains and explore cities during the day. If we saw good scenery, needed a shower, or got tired of sitting, we’d get off and look for accommodation through Booking. We preferred guesthouses and private flats—cheap, clean, comfy, with kitchens and near supermarkets. We never booked in advance; this gave us freedom and no pressure. To find good cheap places, we compared. For travelers, wherever you stay, you’ll need public transport, so distance doesn’t matter much as long as it’s connected. Saving money was the goal, except when the four of us could share a taxi if it was cost-effective.
Food: Before each train ride, we shopped at supermarkets, especially local fresh and cheap foods. Russia’s climate is dry, and adapting diet was hard, so we craved porridge. Whenever time allowed, no matter how tired, the young beauty and I would go to markets or supermarkets to cook for ourselves. Traveling is hard enough; poor food ruins the mood and trip. Self-cooked meals were tasty, affordable, and satisfying.
Here’s a look at our accommodation prices and conditions:
2016.9.7 Ulan-Ude: Outside the train station, turn left, there’s an overpass; cross it and down at the end, easy to find. Shower, internet, cooking, clean, 500 rubles per bed per day (~50 RMB).
2016.9.9 Irkutsk: One room with four beds, shower, internet, cooking, clean, 725 rubles per person per day (~72.5 RMB).
2016.9.11 Olkhon Island: Clean, beautiful environment. We stayed in a two-storey building, one room with two beds, shared internet, shared shower (~50 RMB per person).
2016.9.15 Novosibirsk: Clean, comfortable, shower, internet, cooking, 40 RMB per bed per day.
2016.9.18 Yekaterinburg: Beautiful environment, clean, internet, a room with three bathrooms each with shower, large well-equipped kitchen, bunk beds with privacy curtains, 43 RMB per person per day.
2016.9.25 Moscow: Clean, comfortable, internet, cooking, shower, very close to Red Square. Online booking was cheap, only one day of discount; we booked two days for 1,180 rubles (59 RMB per person per day).
2016.9.25 St. Petersburg: Bunk beds, shower, internet, cooking, clean, 344 rubles per person per day (~35 RMB).
2016.10.1 Murmansk: Shower, internet, cooking, clean, 500 rubles per bed per day (~50 RMB). I forgot my toothbrush after showering; the next day I searched everywhere nearby but couldn’t find it, and the staff ignored me. I had to buy a new toothbrush for 16.8 RMB. When we wanted to leave some gear for safekeeping before departure, they ignored us again—felt extremely poor attitude.
2016.10.2 Teriberka: Heating, breakfast included, shower, no internet, clean, very close to the Arctic Ocean. Only one accommodation, no choice, 1,000 rubles per person per day (~100 RMB).
Luggage storage: The Russian word is "камер хранение", with signs. Every train station has it, usually costs tens to over a hundred rubles per day; I paid 100 rubles once.
Foreign currency: Exchange rate was about 1:9.7, after fees about 1:9.6. Only Bank of China’s head office exchanges Russian rubles; other banks don’t. They only exchange large whole notes. Russia mainly supports group tours. If you take the train to Manzhouli, the shopping centre on the first floor has a dedicated exchange for Russian rubles, with good rates and all denominations, very convenient. For those flying, airport halls have ATMs and exchange points. Many large supermarkets, malls, and accommodations accept cards. The first transaction with a Huaxia card has no fee, but ATMs in some parts of Russia are scarce, so it’s a bit troublesome. I exchanged in advance at home—simple, convenient, but you need to keep the cash safe.
Total RMB exchanged: 8,683 RMB. Rubles: 65,800. 300 USD cost 1,993 RMB (kept as backup, never used). A girl asked me to exchange 1,690 for her; she later exchanged some herself in Manzhouli and didn’t need it. Final leftover 6,000 rubles ≈625 RMB (I changed the remainder into dollars at the airport to bring home). Calculation: 8,683 – 1,690 – 1,993 – 625 = 4,375 RMB spent in Russia on food, accommodation, and transport (in ruble terms).
Travel period:
August 30 – September 4: Zhengzhou → Manzhouli
September 5 – October 3: Russia
October 4: Murmansk → Zhengzhou
Total 36 days.
Transport costs: 2,492 RMB
Train ticket: Zhengzhou – Beijing 93 RMB
High-speed rail: Beijing – Zhengzhou 309 RMB
Bus: Beijing railway station – Beijing airport 24 RMB
Domestic flight: Beijing – Manzhouli 382 RMB
International flight: Murmansk – Moscow – Beijing 1,684 RMB
Total: 93+309+24+382+1,684=2,492
Manzhouli: Aug 30 to Sep 4, food, accommodation, transport totalled 899 RMB
Food: 168 RMB
Accommodation: 37+40+35+40+40=192 RMB
Transport: 25+20+100+27+73+3+5+92+1=346 RMB
Other: 77 RMB (medicine 50, though I brought some in advance but worried not enough, so bought more; photocopy 2, blanket 20, nail clipper 5) → 50+2+20+5=77
This time all the medicine I brought was used, because the sudden cold made all my companions catch a cold. Only I had strong immunity and recovered after one dose—my body’s pretty good. The medicine was all used by them. Because of the dry weather, the beauties had bad colds and sore throats; even after my medicine ran out they still hadn’t recovered. Medicine bought in Russia didn’t work, since Russian drugs generally don’t contain antibiotics. It’s best to bring some common medicines from home.
Exit border: Bus from Zabaykalsk to Chita 92 RMB (mandatory insurance at border, valid 10 days, cost 250 rubles)
Total: 168+192+346+77+24+92=899
Toilets: 20 rubles, 20 rubles, 10 rubles. Total 20+20+10=50. Public toilets in Russia are scarce and charge a fee—a huge headache for travelers. Train stations always have them, free if you have a ticket. Large supermarkets, cafés, hotels, KFC all have free ones. Whenever I encountered such places, I’d drink lots of water and make sure to go. Older age means less ability to hold it. I tried to drink less when out; an emergency without a toilet is one of the most painful things. Once you find the pattern, everything becomes OK.
Why did we choose to take local Russian trains in sections instead of the international train after crossing the border? Let me introduce the international trains:
Beijing to Moscow has two international trains: K3 and K19.
K3 departs Beijing Station at 11:22, arrives Moscow 6 days later at 13:58 (Moscow time). Route: Beijing, Zhangjiakou South, Jining South, Zhu’rihe, Erenhot, Zamyn-Üüd, Sainshand, Choyr, Ulaanbaatar, Zunkharaa, Darkhan, Sükhbaatar, Dozorny (technical stop), Naushki, Dzhida, Ulan-Ude, Slyudyanka, Irkutsk, Zima, Nizhneudinsk, Ilanskaya, Krasnoyarsk, Mariinsk, Taiga, Novosibirsk, Barabinsk, Omsk, Ishim, Tyumen, Sverdlovsk, Perm, Balezino, Kirov, Gorky, Vladimir, Moscow.
K19 departs Beijing Station at 23:00, arrives Moscow 7 days later at 17:58 (Moscow time). Route: Beijing, Tianjin, Tangshan, Shanhaiguan, Jinzhou, Shenyang, Siping, Changchun, Harbin, Ang’angxi, Boketu, Hailar, Manzhouli, Zabaykalsk, Borzya, Karymskaya, Chita, Khilok, Ulan-Ude, Slyudyanka, Irkutsk, Zima, Utes, Ilanskaya, Krasnoyarsk, Mariinsk, Taiga, Novosibirsk, Barabinsk, Omsk, Ishim, Tyumen, Yekaterinburg, Perm, Balezino, Glazov, Kirov, Nizhny Novgorod, Vladimir, Moscow.
Hard sleeper lower berth 4,473 RMB, upper 4,049 RMB, soft sleeper 5,962 RMB, deluxe compartment 6,527 RMB. To buy these tickets, you need a Russian visa and a Mongolian transit visa. After understanding this, you’ll see we made the right choice. The international train requires a transit visa, troublesome procedures, high cost, long duration—seven days eating and sleeping on a train is terrifying. By entering Russia and taking trains in sections, stopping and resting, cooking for ourselves—comfortable, delicious, low cost, good mood, seeing maximum scenery and learning local customs. The international train only goes to Moscow, while we went all the way to the Arctic Ocean in the far north. Same money, more authentic experience—why not!
Here’s our Russian train itinerary with costs:
Chita – Ulan-Ude 1,343.1 rubles (about 700 km) on Sep 6
Ulan-Ude – Irkutsk 606.3 rubles (450 km) on Sep 7
Irkutsk – Novosibirsk 2,748.5 rubles on Sep 12
Novosibirsk – Yekaterinburg 3,303.6 rubles on Sep 15
Yekaterinburg – Kazan 1,592.5 rubles on Sep 18
Kazan – Nizhny Novgorod 1,751.6 rubles on Sep 19
Nizhny Novgorod – Moscow 2,748.5 rubles on Sep 20
Moscow – St. Petersburg 1,272.9 rubles (about 700 km) on Sep 24
St. Petersburg – Murmansk 2,135.4 rubles on Sep 30
Train total: 1,343+606+2,748+3,303+1,592+1,751+2,748+1,272+2,135=17,498 rubles
Murmansk – Teriberka (a small settlement on the Arctic Ocean, under Murmansk Oblast), distance 150 km, chartered car 2,000 rubles for four people, 500 per person one way, 1,000 per person round trip. Teriberka has inconvenient transport. Since we’d booked our flights in advance and visa time was running out, to avoid the hassle of not finding transport back, we asked the driver for his phone number. Most Russians I encountered are very reliable and keep their word. The night before departure we contacted the driver and agreed on 8 a.m. next day. I went out to see if he’d arrived; just as I stepped out, he appeared right on time, not a minute late. Because of his punctuality, we caught our flight back home smoothly.
About Russian trains: All are soft sleepers, divided into three classes. Third class has mostly locals, safe, low price, and more people so the carriage doesn’t feel cold. Disposable bed linen is charged, over 100 rubles, optional. If you don’t want it, tell the ticket seller in advance; if you need it later, you can buy from the attendant. I bought a 20 RMB blanket in Manzhouli in advance, so I didn’t need disposable linen—light, small, multi-use, sometimes used as a shawl when cold.
Bus, taxi, tram costs: 125+150+50+510+800+18+18+20+125+50+60+40+30+20+30+30+35=2,111 rubles
Entrance tickets: 900+700+600=2,200 rubles
Baikal Lake day tour 900 rubles (~90 RMB). There are local tour groups that cost more; I asked our accommodation owner to book a day tour, including lunch, five spots around Lake Baikal, stopping at five different places to view and take photos. At the fourth stop we had a 1.5-hour break; the driver cooked, and when the meeting time came the meal was ready. After eating we went to the last spot. The day tour took a full day, relaxed travel by car, reasonable price.
Neva River boat ride: 700 rubles per person for two hours (~70 RMB). St. Petersburg is a water city, made up of dozens of islands and bridges, called the “Venice of the North.” The Neva flows through the city from Lake Ladoga east to west into the Gulf of Finland, 74 km long with 32 km within the city. Whether day or night, strolling along or sailing, you can enjoy the riverside scenery or the diverse bridges. If you happen to see a bridge opening, the central spans lift like a horse rearing its front hooves, letting ships pass smoothly into the Gulf—an unforgettable spectacular scene.
Winter Palace: 600 rubles (~60 RMB), well worth seeing. You can find detailed info online, I won’t describe further. Tickets 600 rubles, sales start at 10:30, with automatic ticket machines at the entrance; you can also queue.
This entire Russia trip cost, including food, accommodation, transport: 8,726 RMB.
A few important notes:
1. When leaving the country you’ll be asked to fill out a form—keep it safe, you’ll need it when returning.
2. Every train carriage has doors. Russians have a good habit: even children know to open doors gently and close them quietly, speak softly in public so a third person can’t overhear. When you see someone resting, it’s best not to talk; if necessary, whisper. Be considerate of others while making things easy for yourself.
3. In a new place, first observe and ask, respect local customs. Always queue when you see people.
4. In train station waiting halls, seats are for people; put your luggage on the floor—Russian floors are very clean.
5. In crowded areas, especially busy streets, always keep an eye on your phone and bag. Wherever there are crowds, there are pickpockets. Don’t go to deserted places alone or in small groups; avoid going out far after dark, since you don’t speak the language.
6. If you see someone taking a photo, always step aside—a small act that shows good manners.
7. When you need help or ask someone, start with “Hello.” If you don’t speak English, Chinese works too. Once on a train a Chinese woman went straight to the attendant and asked, “Hey, where’s the thing?” As she walked away, the attendant curled her lip in displeasure. Traveling abroad represents our country. We may be materially rich, but we also need spiritual richness. If others look down on us, maybe we should also examine our behaviour. A small gesture represents national civility. If you don’t understand, observe and learn more; sometimes take a look at social etiquette.
8. Be careful with certain items when travelling to Russia. I bought spicy chicken feet before departure, and at the border inspection I asked the driver what can’t be brought. He said: meat, eggs, seeds. Good thing I asked—otherwise confiscation and a heavy fine. I left them in the car; if not discovered, they’d still be mine. After inspection I found them gone, probably confiscated. While waiting for security, I noticed many idle staff sitting around, but when my turn came, two officers seriously checked my bag. Looks like these idle staff are specifically targeting Chinese? Be careful anyway.
Overall Russian national quality:
1. Russians are a gentlemanly people, especially in St. Petersburg. Everywhere you see men and women neatly dressed. In an elevator, a man would proactively help carry your bags. Wherever there are people, they automatically queue; no one cuts in line.
2. On Russian streets you can relax; use zebra crossings. In most places, cars will yield to pedestrians. Wide roads give a sense of safety.
3. I saw a mother with a girl on a bus: a tissue for wiping hands was put into a clothing pocket, and the apple core was wrapped in paper and placed in the child’s schoolbag—never littering. On the flight back to China, I noticed three Chinese girls with lots of trash under their seats, while the foreigners around had none. We really need to change this bad habit. Small things represent a country. Love yourself, love your country, start from yourself, cultivate good habits.
4. At revolving doors, I observed: people gently push when passing, and when leaving, check if someone is behind—a small act showing quality.
5. Strong self-esteem. Some say Russians don’t like to admit mistakes. From what I saw, even though some youths adore foreign things, broadly speaking Russians don’t worship everything foreign or grovel; they even retain a touch of great-power chauvinism. So you rarely see English road signs (not very tourism-friendly). But they can also be blindly proud and extremely stubborn.
6. Impatience. Russians like driving fast; they’re hot-tempered. Ministry of Internal Affairs cars race at at least 120 km/h through busy streets. At night I was scared to walk on the streets—it felt less safe than daytime. The speed was frightening, sounding like race cars.
7. On the train from Novosibirsk to Yekaterinburg, we had one helpless moment. We bought middle berths, and after a whole day out, at night we just wanted a hot instant rice. The whole carriage was Russians, no place to sit. I saw an empty seat and sat on one corner to eat; the person approached with a cold expression and told me to leave. That was the first and last such cold encounter—a feeling of helplessness. We simply went to bed without washing.
In summary, our friendly neighbour is a people of relatively high quality, something we might be far behind—not blind worship. Still, in some aspects Russia is also learning from us, like China’s reform and development, or Chinese diligence, intelligence, and flexibility.
Is Russia safe? Personally I felt very safe. Only a beauty had her phone stolen on the metro once.
Gear: From constant travelling, I’ve learned gradually. Gear is everything; I’m picky and strict about it, aiming for a happier journey. Long-term travel requires considering all seasons. For example, the first time I went to Vietnam, the heat was unbearable and you needed mosquito coils; returning to Lijiang felt like winter and needed warm clothes. The less you carry, the better—think carefully to achieve minimal yet essential and well-rounded packing.
Rain gear: An umbrella only protects from sun and rain. A raincoat protects from rain and cold, and can be draped over you at night as extra cover. One item, multiple uses. If I had to choose, I’d pick a raincoat over an umbrella.
1. Fleece top and pants: light, quick-dry, warm. I choose a zip-up fleece jacket for easy on-off at night.
2. Shawl: blocks wind and sun, can be used as a top, draped over backpack to deter pickpockets, as a bedsheet at night—multi-use.
3. Swimsuit.
4. Skin jacket: sun protection, packs small, light, quick-dry; when cold, adds a layer for wind and warmth.
5. Short-sleeve shirts: two, for washing rotation.
6. Gloves: sun protection when hot, warmth when cold.
7. Long underwear set (autumn type): outdoor style, fleece inside, breathable, doesn’t cling when wet, odour-resistant, warm and comfy, but can’t be worn as outerwear.
8. Stretchy tight pants: wearable outside normally, or as an inner layer when cold.
9. Underwear: three pairs. Washing isn’t always convenient; supermarkets sell disposable paper underwear, good quality, breathable, washable. If running low, wash and reuse. The type distributed in bathhouses is poor—not breathable, low quality, not suitable for long trips.
10. Socks: choose outdoor socks, comfortable, breathable, quick-dry, guaranteed quality.
11. Neck gaiters: two thin (face and neck protection), one thick (can be used as hat and neck warmer in cold), also protects face and from sun.
12. Sunglasses: UV protection, wind and cold protection, eye care.
Electronics/Communication:
1. One charger.
2. Three camera batteries (I love taking photos).
3. One power strip. Some accommodations have outlets far away; a room might have only one socket.
4. Universal travel adapter—you can conquer the world with it.
5. Hair dryer: (1) for drying clothes when it’s cold and they won’t dry. (2) Dry your hair after washing before sleeping to prevent headache. (3) Running around all day feels uncomfortable; blow-dry the Zusanli acupoint to help leg recovery. For chronic neck and shoulder pain, blow-dry the neck and temples to relieve headaches. Wherever it hurts, blow—a great method to promote blood circulation.
6. One outdoor flashlight.
7. Electric mosquito liquid: odourless, highly effective against insects.
Daily essentials:
1. A small bar of soap: for showering, hair, laundry. Buy more during the trip if needed—cheaper than paying checked-baggage fees.
2. Thermal cooker (vacuum flask): dual-use for hot and cold; pour in hot (or ice) water, the outside doesn’t sweat, insulation lasts 24+ hours. Can be used for daily meals, making porridge, soup, various dishes, desserts. Also great for work or travel. Russia’s weather is cold; drinking cold water gave me a sore throat.
3. Compression bags: mainly to compress clothes and save space.
4. Money belt, anti-theft: wear under outer clothing, close to underwear; well-concealed. Keep passport and large sums in it, never take it off—won’t get lost.
5. Dry bag: waterproof, moisture-proof. Keep medicines and other moisture-sensitive items inside; with gear protected, the trip is happier.
6. Notebook and pen.
7. A tiny amount of toothpaste—enough for the trip, plus a small plastic cup.
Medicines:
1. Common medicines: cold medicine, anti-inflammatory, heat-clearing tablets, etc.
2. Since this trip was train-heavy, brought motion sickness pills.
3. For adjusting to local water/soil, heatiness, anti-inflammation drugs.
4. Multivitamins: non-prescription vitamin and mineral supplement, for deficiency-related conditions. I always bring them on trips; long-term poor diet once gave me cracked mouth corners—I took it once and felt better right away.
D1: August 30, 2016, Zhengzhou direct to Beijing, train Z98, hard seat: 93 RMB. Depart 09:44 – Arrive 15:30. Accommodation: 110 split by 3, average 37 each. Total spent: 179 RMB (train 93, airport bus 21, bread 5, yogurt 4, taxi 4, pear 5, fried pancake 8, flatbread 2, accommodation 37). The train was an hour late, so we all ended up on the same timing, took the airport bus, found accommodation near the airport, and went out for dinner together. Big thanks to the older beauty for arranging taxis and accommodation—she’s experienced in outdoor travel. I packed light; this backpack was bought at Decathlon, 199 RMB. Time’s passed, some photos I retrieved from my social media; this was my full gear for Russia. (Photo) Mini travel electric kettle, small and fast, boils water in 3 minutes, one small bottle’s worth per boil. I brought it for several uses: 1. Boiling water. 2. If convenient, making a little congee (since I had the thermal cooker) or noodles. 3. Multi-use, can even serve as a bowl. The main thought was lightweight, minimal but clever, and convenient.
(Photos: Beijing, Beijing West Station, accommodation)
