2021: Capital Beijing, Here I Come!

For some reasons, I couldn’t take annual leave in August this year, so the plan to travel with Xiaobao had to be adjusted to July. August has its own freedom, July has its own scenery – it’s fine after all.

So the July trip was settled.

However, choosing the destination still gave me a bit of a headache. Xiaobao wanted to go to Ningxia and join a study tour, but because we kept hesitating, the available time slots weren’t great in the end. It felt like last summer’s Gansu-Qinghai trip wasn’t that different from Ningxia, and besides, I wasn’t too confident about taking Xiaobao alone, so I had to give it up.

Next year Xiaobao will start first grade, so let’s go to Beijing instead – let’s visit our capital. The itinerary was roughly set.

July 10–18 (9 days, including 4 weekend days)

D1: G350 Chengdu East – Beijing West

Visit: Tiananmen Square Stay: Ningxia Hotel

D2: Visit: National Library

Stay: Lavande Hotel (Beijing Asian Games Village / Bird’s Nest / National Convention Center branch)

D3: Visit: Summer Palace

Stay: Lavande Hotel (Beijing Asian Games Village / Bird’s Nest / National Convention Center branch)

D4: Visit: China Science and Technology Museum Stay: Hi Inn (Beijing Bird’s Nest branch)

D5: Visit: Beijing Planetarium, flag-lowering ceremony at Tiananmen Square

Stay: Rui’an Hotel

D6: Visit: flag-raising ceremony at Tiananmen Square, Palace Museum, Wangfujing

Stay: Rui’an Hotel

D7: Visit: National Museum of China, Nanluoguxiang Stay: Ningxia Hotel

D8: Visit: Beihai Park

Stay: Ningxia Hotel

D9: G571 Beijing West – Chengdu East

1. D1: July 10

The G350 was at 7:00; based on all the drop-off experiences, I planned to leave at 6:20. It was raining fairly hard in the morning. I hailed a T3 ride-hailing car only after we got downstairs, so we waited a bit at the compound gate. The driver wasn’t very familiar with the route and two new traffic lights had been added along the way – unlike the smooth flow we used to know – so there was some traffic. We jogged to the ticket gate and by then boarding had already started.

Because I bought the tickets late, the two seats were in different carriages. Luckily, a kind old man was next to us. He was very understanding and agreed to swap seats, so Xiaobao happily kept saying, “Thank you, Grandpa, thank you, Grandpa.”

All signs pointed to a good start.

The afternoon weather in Beijing was muggy. Beijing West hadn’t changed much from over a decade ago – except that the subway now reaches it – and it all felt strangely familiar. After two subway transfers, we finally arrived at Ningxia Hotel. Ningxia Hotel isn’t far from Andingmen Station, just a few hundred meters, but with a child in tow, the heat, luggage, narrow sidewalks, and unfamiliar streets, it probably took us more than twenty minutes.

Once we settled in, Xiaobao excitedly clamored to go to Tiananmen.

1.1. Tiananmen Square

Tiananmen Square sits on Beijing’s central axis and is the heart of the republic. The Tiananmen Gate, Great Hall of the People, National Museum, Monument to the People’s Heroes, and many other national symbols stand here. Grand celebrations are held here, and the daily morning flag-raising ceremony draws countless visitors.

Now everyone entering the square must go through security – scan an ID card or recite the ID number. Occasionally, organized tour groups can use a temporarily opened VIP security lane.

The square also has the Monument to the People’s Heroes, Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, Great Hall of the People, and the National Museum of China.

1.2. Tiananmen Gate

Tiananmen Gate lies at the north end of Tiananmen Square. It’s a symbol of Beijing and our great motherland – a must-see for every visitor.

Perhaps the timing wasn’t right. The Golden Water Bridge had been fenced off and was closed, so we couldn’t walk onto the gate or wait there. But crowds were everywhere – it was impossible to snap a photo without a sea of unplanned extras.

We had wanted to watch the flag-lowering ceremony, but lowering that day was at 19:45, which didn’t quite fit our schedule, so we went back to the hotel to rest. Half a watermelon solved dinner and the fruit fix for the evening.

2. D2: July 11

Earlier I’d planned to stay at Xiyuan Hotel, so I had tried to reserve spots at the National Library and the Planetarium. Luck was on our side – I actually managed to snag one of the 100 spots for the National Library Children’s Hall. But I couldn’t get good movie showtimes at the Planetarium, so today’s plan was relaxed: the Children’s Hall of the National Library, then move to the area near the Bird’s Nest to prepare for a Great Wall visit on Monday.

The Children’s Hall at the National Library was fantastic – worthy of the name National Library. The space was spacious, facilities were comprehensive, and every detail showed genuine thought for children. It was all presented in ways kids love. I’m almost embarrassed to say it, but this was the first time Xiaobao ever used an iPad – yet she picked it up instantly, far more adept than I am.

In the afternoon we grabbed our luggage, took a DiDi, and headed straight to Hi Inn Bird’s Nest. I had booked a twin room for two nights, but the hotel didn’t receive our reservation, so we waited foolishly while the platform and hotel sorted it out. Later, the hotel suggested we pay the room rate in cash at the platform’s price. The platform replied we could stay one night and move elsewhere the next day, or find another place entirely, and they would compensate the first night’s room rate. In the end, we chose to stay at the nearby Lavande Hotel.

Heavy rain warnings were being issued everywhere, so the Monday Great Wall trip had to be cancelled.

3. D3: July 12

It rained all night, and the morning rain wasn’t too heavy, but still not ideal for venturing far.

After breakfast, we waited for the rain to ease, called a DiDi, and set off for the Summer Palace.

We rented an electronic audio guide, donned rain ponchos, held umbrellas, and entered through the New Palace Gate. The rain was fine and thick, mixed with wind. Despite all our gear, we could still get soaked if not careful.

The Summer Palace was originally an imperial retreat and garden of the Qing dynasty, also known as the Garden of Clear Ripples. It was built on the basis of Kunming Lake and Longevity Hill, following the design of Jiangnan gardens. It’s an enormous, well-preserved royal garden with beautiful scenery and many cultural treasures, known as the “Museum of Royal Gardens.” The Summer Palace can be divided into three areas: the political activity zone centered on the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity; the imperial living quarters around the Hall of Jade Ripples and the Hall of Joyful Longevity; and the garden touring area along the Long Corridor, the back hill, and the western district.

Right upon entering is Kunming Lake. The lake covers three-quarters of the Summer Palace area, its beauty the soul of the garden. Kunming Lake can be split into the large lake, the west lake, and the back lake. Every summer and autumn, crowds come to boat on the lake, admire the pavilions and towers along the shore, and take in the panoramic views. Apart from the water scenery, the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, the West Causeway, and other spots deserve a leisurely visit.

By the lake stands a bronze ox, credited with great contributions to Beijing’s flood prevention. Strolling on, we reached the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, which connects the east bank with South Lake Isle. It is made up of 17 arches, 150 meters long, like a rainbow resting on the ripples. Its design combines elements of Beijing’s Lugou Bridge and Suzhou’s Baodai Bridge. The stone carvings on the bridge are exquisite – 544 in total – and the four lifelike stone animals at both ends are vivid.

The Long Corridor of the Summer Palace is also worth mentioning. Built during Emperor Qianlong’s reign, it was damaged when Anglo-French forces invaded Beijing and was rebuilt in 1888. The corridor is covered with countless paintings of varied forms, lifelike figures, and lively stories – each step reveals a story, perfect for savoring slowly.

Leaving the Summer Palace, it was still raining. We queued for half an hour for a DiDi, and finally could return to the hotel. Xiaobao had walked quite a bit and fell asleep in the car, so the plan to circle around Tsinghua and Peking University fell through.

As for the Old Summer Palace – that’s for the next trip.

4. D4: July 13

Staying near the Bird’s Nest, I had already booked tickets and a movie for Xiaobao at the China Science and Technology Museum. Besides abundant science exhibitions, there’s also a special Science Paradise for children, where kids can learn scientific knowledge through interactive games.

We spent the whole morning in the Children’s Hall, and Xiaobao absolutely loved it. At noon I took her to the 4D movie “Germ Wars.” After the film she asked, “Mom, why did it feel like someone was poking me during the film?”

The Science and Technology Museum gave Xiaobao a perfect experience that will probably inspire her curiosity and potential for science. There was a little regret: I’d also booked a dome-screen movie, but I forgot the time and didn’t notice the phone reminder – we missed it entirely.

After leaving the museum, we caught a distant glimpse of the Bird’s Nest (National Stadium), the Water Cube (National Aquatics Center), and Ling Long Pagoda. We were completely satisfied – though of course the view would have been even lovelier at night.

In the evening I met a college friend. Although we hadn’t seen each other since July 2007 – fourteen years apart – it still felt completely familiar, without any awkwardness. Xiaobao said she absolutely adored this “little auntie.” The moment she saw her, Xiaobao started playing, lively, outgoing, and extroverted – such a huge contrast to the shy child I usually know. Aside from the number in her age, Yanqing remained exactly as she had been, untouched by the years.

5. D5: July 14

In the morning we moved to Rui’an Hotel, chosen for its safety and its super-convenient access to the flag square.

After settling in, we headed to the Beijing Planetarium. Ha – our Beijing trip has turned into a cultural journey. Xiaobao was really interested in the planetarium’s exhibits. To make up for missing the dome movie at the Science Museum, today we watched “The Wonderful Starry Sky,” which uses the seasonal changes of constellations to introduce the names and positions of major constellations.

It was a bit hot in the afternoon, so we rested at the hotel until nearly seven, then went out to watch the flag-lowering ceremony. When the ceremony ended and the evening lights came on, the gate was illuminated, shining in harmony with the other buildings on Tiananmen Square – truly grand and spectacular.

6. D6: July 15

A little before 4:00, in the early morning twilight, I woke Xiaobao – we were going to Tiananmen to watch the national flag rise. To be honest, when I was a grad student in Beijing, I only ever saw a flag-lowering ceremony, never a flag-raising. This would be my first time seeing it. Xiaobao and I were equally excited.

At 4:58, with the “March of the Volunteers” playing, the Five-Star Red Flag rose slowly, and a sense of Chinese national pride welled up naturally.

6.1. The Palace Museum

Beijing’s Forbidden City, called the Forbidden City in the past, served as the imperial palace for 24 Ming and Qing emperors. Now it’s the Palace Museum, located in central Beijing, an unparalleled masterpiece of ancient architecture. The palace buildings are wooden structures with yellow glazed-tile roofs, blue-white stone bases, and resplendent painted decorations. The whole complex is laid out along a north-south central axis, symmetrical left and right. According to layout and function, it’s divided into the Outer Court and Inner Palace, with the Gate of Heavenly Purity as the boundary – south of it is the Outer Court, north of it the Inner Palace. The atmosphere of these two parts is completely different. The Outer Court centers on the three great halls: the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Central Harmony, and the Hall of Preserving Harmony. Among them, the Hall of Supreme Harmony, commonly called the “Throne Hall,” was where the emperor held grand ceremonies; it’s also known as the “Front Court.” Flanking it on the east are the Hall of Literary Glory, the Imperial Library, the Stables, and the Southern Three Institutes; on the west are the Hall of Martial Valor, the Imperial Household Department, and others. The architecture is majestic, and the courtyards bright and open, symbolizing the supreme feudal power. The Inner Palace centers on the three rear palaces: the Palace of Heavenly Purity, the Hall of Union, and the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, flanked by the Hall of Mental Cultivation, the Six Eastern Palaces, Six Western Palaces, the Palace of Abstinence, and the Palace of Prolonging Happiness, with the Imperial Garden behind. This was the residence of feudal emperors and their consorts.

Because Xiaobao had heard “Monsters in the Forbidden City,” she was full of curiosity and eagerness – it was she who asked to go.

Taking her energy into account, we set aside a full day for the Palace Museum, but we basically followed the central axis: Meridian Gate – Gate of Supreme Harmony – Hongyi Pavilion (Imperial Court Rites and Music Exhibition) – Hall of Supreme Harmony – Hall of Central Harmony – Hall of Preserving Harmony – Gate of Heavenly Purity – Palace of Heavenly Purity – Hall of Union – Palace of Earthly Tranquility – Imperial Garden – Gate of Divine Might. The essence of the Forbidden City lies along this route, and walking time is quite reasonable.

6.1.1. Golden Water Bridge

The elegant stone bridges of the Forbidden City – Golden Water Bridge

In the square in front of the Gate of Supreme Harmony, there are five Golden Water Bridges, each a single-arch type, graceful in design, complementing the magnificent Meridian Gate tower and the resplendent Hall of Supreme Harmony to create an enchanting sight.

Xiaobao, having watched “Forbidden City 100,” already knew about the Golden Water Bridge. Before we even entered the Forbidden City, she said, “Mom, we’ve already walked across the outer Golden Water Bridge.” It seems the groundwork had paid off quite well.

6.1.2. Meridian Gate

The Meridian Gate is the southern gate of the Forbidden City, also the main entrance to the imperial city and the largest of the four gates. Built in the 18th year of the Yongle reign of the Ming dynasty, it has a history of nearly 600 years. Its plan is a concave shape – the main gatehouse extends forward with east and west wings, each with two square pavilions echoing the central tower, resembling a phoenix spreading its wings. Hence it is also called the “Five-Phoenix Tower,” reflecting the tradition that the palace’s main gate to the south should be the Red Bird Gate.

The Meridian Gate has five openings leading inside: three in the middle and one side gate on each flank. The central opening was the “Imperial Road Gate” used only by the emperor. Apart from the reigning sovereign, only the empress could pass through on her wedding day in the bridal sedan chair, and the top three scholars of the highest imperial exam – the zhuangyuan, bangyan, and tanhua – could exit through it once, as a special imperial privilege. Princes and nobles used the west gate to the right of center; civil and military officials used the east gate. The corner side gates were opened only on major court days.

The Meridian Gate was also the setting for important imperial ceremonies. On occasions of large-scale victory parades and prisoner presentations, the emperor would ascend the gate to receive homage, displaying full imperial majesty. In the Ming, the “court-beating” of officials – “tingzhang” – took place here. The often-heard phrase in TV dramas, “Drag him out of the Meridian Gate and behead him,” is actually an adaptation of “tingzhang”; in reality, executions were held at Xisi or Caishikou in Beijing.

Now the central gatehouse has become an important exhibition hall of the Palace Museum.

The Meridian Gate is the main entrance, on the north-south axis, facing south like the sun at noon, hence the name “Meridian Gate.” Its east, west, and north platforms connect to enclose a square courtyard. The northern gate tower is nine bays wide, with a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof of yellow glazed tiles. The imposing Meridian Gate, like three peaks encircling and five summits rising, is majestic, thus commonly called the Five-Phoenix Tower.

6.1.3. Gate of Supreme Harmony

6.1.4. Hongyi Pavilion

6.1.5. Hall of Supreme Harmony

The venue for grand imperial ceremonies – the Hall of Supreme Harmony

The Hall of Supreme Harmony, commonly known as the “Throne Hall,” was where Ming and Qing emperors held major ceremonies. On grand occasion days, an enormous procession stretched from the Hall of Supreme Harmony all the way outside Tiananmen. Under the front eaves of the hall, Neutral-and-Harmonious Music was played; inside the Gate of Supreme Harmony, the Great Music for Ascending the Platform resounded. Princes and nobles stood on the platform, while officials from rank one through nine assembled on the imperial way on either side where rank-marking stones were set out.

6.1.6. Hall of Central Harmony

6.1.7. Hall of Preserving Harmony

Venue for the “palace examination” – the Hall of Preserving Harmony

The Hall of Preserving Harmony is a quintessential example of traditional Chinese palace architecture. On New Year’s Eve, the emperor would feast minority princes and officials here. From the later Qianlong period, it became the venue for the “palace examination.”

The existing main beams are still Ming structures. Behind the hall, in the middle of the stepped ramp, is a stone carved with clouds, dragons, seawater, and cliffs – known as the Cloud-Dragon Stone Carving. On rainy days, water spouted from the dragons’ mouths, ingeniously combining practical drainage with architectural aesthetics.

6.1.8. Gate of Heavenly Purity

6.1.9. Palace of Heavenly Purity

The Palace of Heavenly Purity is one of the three rear palaces of the inner court. Built in the 18th year of the Yongle reign (1420), it has a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof with yellow glazed tiles, sitting on a single-layer white marble platform. In front, on the spacious moon terrace, there are bronze turtles and cranes, a sundial, and measure vessels, plus four gilded incense burners. In the center, a stepped ramp leads up to the high walkway that connects to the Gate of Heavenly Purity. The Palace of Heavenly Purity is the largest in the inner court; fourteen Ming emperors once lived here.

6.1.10. Hall of Union

6.1.11. Hall of Mental Cultivation

The emperor’s place for handling affairs – the Hall of Mental Cultivation

The Hall of Mental Cultivation is an “H”-shaped building divided into a front hall and a rear hall. From the Yongzheng reign of Qing onward, the emperor’s sleeping chamber moved to the rear hall; the front hall became where the emperor handled daily affairs and received officials.

6.1.12. Palace of Earthly Tranquility

The nuptial chamber for the emperor – the Palace of Earthly Tranquility

The Palace of Earthly Tranquility is one of the three rear palaces. In the Ming, it was the empress’s bedchamber, but in the Qing it gradually became a place for performing shamanic rituals.

6.1.13. Imperial Garden

The Imperial Garden lies on the central axis of the Forbidden City. It was always a place for the imperial family and consorts to relax and enjoy leisure time. Though not large, it is planted with many lovely flowers and trees, and elegantly laid out, with pavilions, terraces, and towers that complement the greenery – ancient, serene, yet full of imperial grandeur.

6.1.14. Gate of Divine Might

The weather was a bit hot. After leaving the Forbidden City, I had wanted to visit Jingshan Park to see the panoramic view, but Xiaobao was out of steam, so we just returned to the hotel.

6.2. Wangfujing

Wangfujing lies to the east of the Forbidden City, centered on Wangfujing Street. It gathers many large-scale shopping centers and is a classic Beijing shopping destination. There are also snack streets serving delicacies from all over, and the historic Wangfujing Church. It’s a popular spot for shopping, dining, and strolling.

Our only reason for coming here was to find something to eat. We tried the old-Beijing-style quick-boiled tripe and filled our stomachs with Tianjin’s Goubuli buns, then headed back.

7. D7: July 16

7.1. National Museum of China

The National Museum of China had been on our pre-trip plan.

It’s one of the largest comprehensive museums in the country, bringing together cultural highlights from across the nation. There are many precious exhibits – like the Terracotta Warriors from Shaanxi, the Sanxingdui masks from Sichuan, and the bronze animal heads from the Old Summer Palace. Visiting feels like flipping through a living textbook; it’s a wonderful place for learning and education.

Because our reservation was for the afternoon, time was tight. After touring the “Ancient China” exhibition, the museum started clearing visitors out.

The “Ancient China” gallery is on the basement level. Exhibits are arranged chronologically from ancient times to the Ming and Qing – like a complete Chinese history. When visiting, remember to enter through the entrance in the north preface hall and browse from the earliest era onwards.

Even if you know little about cultural relics, you’re sure to spot many familiar-looking treasures: the Painted Pottery Basin with Human Face and Fish Design, the Yangshao Eagle-Shaped Pottery Ding, the Hongshan Culture Jade Dragon, the Pottery Figurine of a Storyteller Beating a Drum, the Shang-Zhou Four-Ram Square Zun, the Western Han Painted Terracotta Warriors, the Chenghua Doucai Jar, the Ming Wanli Empress’s Phoenix Crown, and more – all exquisitely crafted, the very essence of Chinese civilization, and a feast for the eyes.

7.2. Nanluoguxiang

Nanluoguxiang wasn’t far from Ningxia Hotel – just a few minutes’ walk. It’s a hutong that blends a chic, bohemian vibe with old-Beijing charm, and is one of Beijing’s trendy landmarks. It’s packed with artistic little shops and all sorts of snacks. Young people, especially the artsy type, often consider it a must-visit spot in Beijing.

Xiaobao tried the sugar-blowing figurine here and was thrilled.

In the evening we found a Chaoshan congee place. It wasn’t crowded, the congee was delicious, and the price was very reasonable.

8. D8: July 17

8.1. Beihai Park

Beihai is northwest of the Forbidden City, and together with “Zhonghai” and “Nanhai” it forms the “Three Seas.” The park was once a royal garden, with pavilions scattered amid the greenery and lush trees lining the lakeside – the scenery is stunning.

The moment we entered, blooming lotus flowers vied with one another in full glory – truly beautiful. The White Pagoda came into view in the distance. The familiar tune, “Let us sway the oars, the little boat pushes through the waves…” echoed in my ears. Boating on Beihai, of course, was a must.

Not going to the Geological Museum in the afternoon became a huge regret. I had planned to meet up with friends, but in the end they all went and I bailed. I really felt bad about that.

The old-classmate reunion was arranged at China University of Mining and Technology. First of all, big thanks to my old classmates for their warm hospitality. We hadn’t seen each other since graduation in 2009. Everyone has done well. Xiaobao was amazing that day, too – she had a blast with the older brother and the younger boy.

9. D9: July 18

High-speed train back to Chengdu

Since I tend to be quite self-satisfied, I feel basically satisfied with the trip planning. The original itinerary had more sights, but in reality, we did one, at most two per day, mainly because I didn’t want Xiaobao to be too tired. There are a few small regrets, but not many: first, traveling in the rainy season brought many limitations – we missed the Great Wall. If possible, I’d avoid the rainy season next time. Second, we switched hotels three or four times, which was a hassle. If I go to Beijing again, switching once would be ideal. Third, I missed Yonghe Temple, Guozijian, and the Confucius Temple near Ningxia Hotel… Without a few small regrets, how would I ever have the motivation to go back next time?